Apache Junction - RVing with Rex

Here’s Why You Should Drive the Apache Trail to Tortilla Flat

A place nestled in history, natural beauty, and splendor

Drive down any wide, open road in Arizona and you’re bound to come across a tiny town that looks like it has some intriguing history. Old, weather-beaten buildings and rusting relics of the lives that once called these towns home lay dormant, ready to tell stories of decades past. Luckily, sometimes you don’t have to do much digging; quite a few of these towns proudly share their history with anyone willing to listen.

One of those places is Tortilla Flat, part historic mining camp, part ghost town, and modern day visitor attraction. Sitting at the edge of the Superstition Mountains en route to Roosevelt Dam, Tortilla Flat is one of the smallest, most remote towns in the state.

Apache Trail *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The town’s history began centuries ago when the Apache used a trail that passed through here to travel through the Superstition Mountains. As American settlers moved into Arizona Territory this trail was eventually converted into a stagecoach line. In the mid-1800s, prospectors began setting up camps in the area in hopes of striking it rich by finding gold in the nearby Superstition Mountains. Finding little luck in the rugged mountains, these camps likely last long and eventually dwindled to nothing when a freight camp was established here in 1904 for the construction of Roosevelt Dam.

Once visitors began traveling to see the newly constructed dam, Tortilla Flat became one of the hot spots along the way. Among the thousands of visitors, well-known folks like Teddy Roosevelt, Clark Gable, and John Wayne have been known to have passed through or stopped here.

A few years back the town’s new owners poured $500,000 into improvements to the old buildings that line Tortilla Flat’s two blocks on State Route 88 also known as the Apache Trail east of Apache Junction.

But don’t expect anything to be shiny or modern looking. The goal of the renovations was to bring the facilities up to modern standards while maintaining the historical ambiance.

With food, live music, vintage buildings including a post office and museum, souvenirs, lots of Southwest history and of course the famous prickly pear gelato, it’s easy to see why Tortilla Flat is a fun place to spend an afternoon.

Tortilla Flat *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Here are a few things to know:

Tortilla Flat is the oldest operating stagecoach town in Arizona
Tortilla Flat played a key role in bringing water and electricity to Phoenix
The ride here is nationally rated as a top 10 motorcycle ride

Where the heck is Tortilla Flat?

Tortilla Flat refers to two distinct places

Just to be clear, author John Steinbeck’s book by the same name has nothing to do with the Arizona landmark.

About 53 miles east of central Phoenix on the southern edge of Tonto National Forest, the area that became known as Tortilla Flat has for over 1,000 years served as a way station in the rugged Superstition Mountains. With its setting nestled between mountain passes and alongside the Salt River, the shady oasis has long welcomed weary travelers looking to refresh, refuel, and relax.

Tortilla Flat came to prominence in 1903 when Roosevelt Dam and the road leading to it were built. Tortilla Flat was a place of rest for dam workers and visitors on their way to the construction site, 26 miles to the north. It eventually became a stagecoach stop bringing travelers, businessmen, and adventurers out West.

What’s new at Tortilla Flat?

A fresh look to the attraction which boasts a population of six

Owners Katie Ellering and RTDK Management who bought the town as a 20-year lease from Tonto National Forest in September 2019 spent half a million dollars on improvements.

Renovations include a remodeled museum and bathrooms, new electrical wiring in the kitchen, a new boardwalk and signs, a remodeled retail store, and colorful murals scattered throughout the town. The new owners were careful to preserve the town’s Western heritage.

“So when you look around this place, it looks like nothing was done. And that’s exactly the point,” said Chris Field, director of operations at Tortilla Flat.

More local artists are now featured at the The Mercantile and Gift Store. Visitors can browse crafts from over 24 local vendors.

There is also a new town jail and Field says it’s more like an escape room. Guests who enter the jail have to solve three puzzles to get out.

When is Tortilla Flat open?

Tortilla Flat is open year round. The summer season is June 1-September 30. The winter season is October 1-May 31.

In the summer, Tortilla Flat is open 10 am-6 pm Mondays through Fridays. In winter, the town is open 10 am-5 pm Mondays through Fridays. Weekend hours are 9 am-6 pm Saturdays and Sundays all year.

What is there to do in Tortilla Flat?

Learn its streets. Meet its people. Learn its history.

The town is just two blocks long but don’t let that fool you. There’s plenty to occupy a visitor for an entire afternoon.

Tortilla Flat General Store and Ice Cream Shop: The general store is the last surviving original building from the 1940s. The homey little store is where you can pick up a sweet treat such as a scoop of prickly pear gelato or homemade fudge.
Mercantile and Gift Shop: Everyone needs a souvenir from Tortilla Flat, right? The Mercantile has you covered with Native American jewelry and pottery, postcards, T-shirts, coffee mugs, books on history and cooking, Tortilla Flat memorabilia, and Southwestern artwork.
Post office: Because Tortilla Flat is a real town, it has a post office. Nestled in a corner of the Mercantile is a tiny post office where you can drop postcards, letters, and packages. Buy a Tortilla Flat postcard and mail it from there so it has the town’s name as the postmark.
Museum: A replica of the original tiny schoolhouse that was destroyed in a 1943 flood is now the Tortilla Flat Museum. Although it’s just a single room, the museum has everything you could want to know about the town’s colorful history. Learn about the improbable building of the Apache Trail, the 17 owners who have run the town over the past century, the floods and fires that have destroyed Tortilla Flat and the restoration efforts that followed each one.
Apache Trail: The scenery and recreation opportunities are a big part of the attraction. You can hike and camp in the Superstition Mountains and nearby Lost Dutchman State Park. Fishing and boating are available at Canyon Lake, about 3 miles west of Tortilla Flat.

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What’s on the menu at Tortilla Flat?

Homemade food from family recipes

Superstition Restaurant & Saloon: With saddle barstools and a rustic ambiance, this saloon will take you back in time. The walls are covered with old dollar bills and other currencies left by travelers over the years. The menu offers spicy chili, big grilled cheese and other sandwiches, pulled pork fries, burgers, wings, and cold beverages. Brunch is offered from 9 to 10:30 am Saturdays and Sundays.
BBQ Patio: Enjoy the fresh air, live music from the Tortilla Flat Band, and BBQ at the outdoor dining area. Order the chili burger, a rack of ribs, and the same sandwiches offered at the saloon. It is open 11:30 am-4:30 pm daily from December 26 through Easter, weather permitting.

How far is Tortilla Flat from Phoenix?

Even though you can drive straight through, it’s more interesting to stop along the way

Tortilla Flat is about 53 miles east of central Phoenix. Take Interstate 10 east and U.S. 60 east to Idaho Road/State Route 88 (Exit 196.) Go north on Idaho Road to Apache Trail, turn east and drive 17 miles to Tortilla Flat.

From Tortilla Flat, you can drive the Apache Trail several more miles to the Fish Creek Hill overlook. Beyond the overlook, the road remains closed due to damage from the 2019 Woodbury Fire and the potential for flooding.

Why is it called Tortilla Flat?

The exact origin of the name remains uncertain

There isn’t one definitive explanation for how Tortilla Flat got its name.

According to the town museum, one popular story traces the name to 1867 when pioneer John Cline and his group got stuck in the flat during a torrential rainfall after coming back from fetching supplies in Phoenix.

After being stranded for a few days, the only food the group had left was flour so they made tortillas. To commemorate their week of survival they decided to call the area Tortilla Flat.

Another theory says that the area took its name from a tortilla-shaped butte near the stagecoach location.

Along the Apache Trail *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

What is the population of Tortilla Flat?

A small but continuous population

The population of Tortilla Flat is six people. It is an unincorporated part of Maricopa County. The residents are employees who work in the tourist attraction. It is considered Arizona’s smallest official community and has its own voter precinct.

Worth Pondering…

The Arizona desert takes hold of a man’s mind and shakes it.

—David W. Toll

Apache Trail: Arizona’s Most Scenic Drive

The Apache Trail is a 39-mile scenic byway with historic roots dating back to the Wild West era in Arizona

What are you going to remember about 2020? Actually, don’t answer that; this is a family friendly blog. But despite that year’s challenges maybe we’ll also remember it as a year when we made the best of it! Which, it turns out you can do on the Apache Trail, one of Arizona’s most beloved scenic roads.

While damage from the Woodbury Fire and floods in 2019 which triggered a massive landslide still blocks part of the route, the Arizona Department of Transportation this year repaired the Apache Trail up to Fish Creek Vista turning an already scenic road into a day trip with a panoramic payoff.

Arizona has so many scenic byways and the Apache Trail is not only stunning but also historic. It follows an old stagecoach trail near Phoenix into the Superstition Mountains. It is a drivable trail but sections are unpaved and not suitable for larger vehicles. Apache Trail is one of the best Arizona road trips with majestic mountain views.

The scenic byway was designated in 1998 and is approximately 39 miles long winding in and out of some of the most awe-inspiring country in Arizona—or for that matter in the West. It is bound on the north by Canyon and Apache lakes and on the south by the rugged Superstition Mountains and the Superstition Mountain Wilderness Area.

The Apache Trail was built between 1903 and 1905 and is named after the Apache people who originally used the trail as they moved through the Superstition Mountains and Tonto National Forest. The trail links Apache Junction on the edge of the Greater Phoenix area with Theodore Roosevelt Lake. The Wild West’s landscapes are iconic with rugged desert mountains and deep reservoir lakes (including Apache Lake and Canyon Lake).

From Apache Junction, east of Phoenix, head northeast on the Apache Trail (State Route 88) which rolls past mature saguaros, chollas, and the dramatic cliffs of the Superstition Mountains on the right. Within a few miles, you’ll come to three sites where you easily could spend all day: Superstition Mountain Museum whose centerpiece is a chapel built for a 1969 Elvis Presley film

Goldfield Ghost Town, an old mining town reborn as a tourist attraction

Lost Dutchman State Park which provides access to some of the Superstitions’ best hiking routes

But those destinations can wait for another day.

A few miles later, dramatic rock formations rise on the left side of the road punctuating a view of the distant Four Peaks. At this point, any passengers who are prone to carsickness may want to close their eyes because the road begins a series of hairpin turns as it climbs into the foothills of the Superstitions.

Those who keep their eyes open will see giant saguaros on both sides of the road which crests a hill around Mile 9 and begins its descent toward Canyon Lake—one of several reservoirs on the Salt River. You’ll skirt the lake’s southern shore crossing two one-lane bridges along the way before continuing east.

The next stop at Mile 16.5 is Tortilla Flat, a tiny “town” that boasts a population of 6, a lively restaurant, and an ice cream shop whose specialty is prickly pear gelato. You’ll see plenty of prickly pears over the next few miles along with big agaves and even bigger views of distant mesas and rolling hills.

The pavement ends around Mile 22 and what’s left is a wide, relatively smooth dirt road that’s suitable for passenger cars. Just beyond the Tortilla Trailhead the road passes a dramatic canyon on the left. A half-mile later it reaches Fish Creek Vista where there are restrooms and a paved interpretive trail.

Canyon Lake *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

From the parking area, follow the paved trail less than a quarter-mile to its end where you’ll be treated to a view worthy of the drive: a steep, foreboding canyon with rocky cliffs on its sides and saguaros at its bottom. The trail also offers a look at the section of the Apache Trail that’s currently off-limits.

At time of writing (December 2024), there’s no timetable for fully reopening the route as its remoteness and steep grades make repairs difficult. When it’s whole, SR 88 runs all the way to Theodore Roosevelt Lake, the largest lake located entirely in Arizona.

Enjoy your time at the vista, and be sure to take a few minutes to enjoy how quiet it is in this uninhabited part of the state. Although you can’t go on, rest assured that the views on the way back are just as good. And so is the prickly pear gelato.

Sections of Apache Trail are closed pending further notice

The Forest Service states the section between milepost 220 and milepost 229 is indefinitely closed.

Open to traffic: Apache Junction (milepost 194) to Fish Creek Overlook/Rest Area (milepost 220)
Closed to traffic indefinitely: Fish Creek Hill Overlook/Rest Area (milepost 220) to Apache Lake Marina (Milepost 229)
Open to traffic: Apache Lake Marina (milepost 229) to Roosevelt Lake (milepost 242)

Apache Trail history

Designation: National Scenic Byway
Length: 23.6 miles one way
Constructed: 1903-1905
Original name: Tonto Wagon Road
Directions: From the intersection of Main Street and the Apache Trail (State Route 88) in Apache Junction, go northeast, then east on the Apache Trail for 23.6 miles to Fish Creek Vista.
Vehicle requirements: None in good weather.
Warning: Back-road travel can be hazardous so be aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of water. Don’t travel alone and let someone know where you are going and when you plan to return.
Information: Mesa Ranger District, 480-610-3300 or fs.usda.gov/tonto

Worth Pondering…

The scenic byway winding in and out of some of the most awe-inspiring country in Arizona—or for that matter in the West.

—National Forest Service

Apache Trail: Canyon Lake, Tortilla Flat and Beyond

“a feller could meet hisself comin’ round one of them bends”

An historic road and a National Scenic Byway, the Apache Trail winds through, around, up, and down the Superstition Mountains. The 120-mile scenic route takes travelers through deserts, mountains, canyons, by cliff dwellings, along lake shores, and through old mining towns.

The road winds its way from Apache Junction, passing Canyon lake, Apache Lake, and Roosevelt Lake. It goes from Roosevelt Dam to Globe-Miami and then becomes US-60 and heads west to Superior and back to Apache Junction.

The greatest scenery lies within the first 44 miles from Apache Junction to Roosevelt Dam. The road winds through a very wild region showcasing wildlife, volcanic debris, and huge, layered buttes. It’s a trip into outback Arizona and back in time. It’s not a modern road and is paved just past Tortilla Flat. From there it’s a narrow dirt road until near Roosevelt Dam.

Apache Trail near Canyon Lake © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Apache Trail was built as a haul and service road for the construction and maintenance of Roosevelt Dam. For the most part, it is a single-lane road with occasional pull-outs. In 1919, several stations stood along the trail to supply travelers with their needs. There was Government Well, Mormon Flat, Fish Creek Lodge, and Snell’s Station between Mesa and the dam. The completion of the Phoenix-Globe Highway through Superior in May 1922 allowed drivers to circumvent the entire Superstition Wilderness area, an almost roadless region.

Apache Trail and the Superstitions © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Once past Apache Junction, the Superstitions dominate the road.

Apache Trail and Superstition Mountain Museum © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The 12.5-acre Superstition Mountain Museum collects, preserves, and displays the artifacts and history of these Superstition Mountains and surrounding area. Nature trails crisscross the area surrounding the museum buildings that include a Wells Fargo office, stage coach stop, barber shop, assay office, and other displays of authentic relics of this era. Museums in their own right, the Elvis Memorial Chapel and the Audie Murphy Barn were moved to the site, piece by piece, nail by nail, and reconstructed.

Apache Trail and Goldfield Ghost Town © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Nearby, the Goldfield Ghost Town with the Superstition Mountain Lost Dutchman Mine Museum offers train rides and an Old West atmosphere. Shops and restaurants line the quaint streets. It was once a booming community of 5,000 with three saloons and a hotel. Most of the residents earned a living in 50-odd mines around the area in the 1890s. Goldfield offers an interesting guided tour of a reconstructed section of the Old Mammoth Mine.

Apache Trail and Lost Dutchman State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Next you’ll pass the Lost Dutchman State Park, which is the starting point for several hiking trails and has a great campground with electric and water utilities and several picnic areas.

Apache Trail and Canyon Lake © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A popular stop along the Apache Trail, Canyon Lake, with a surface area of 950 acres, is the third and smallest of four lakes created along the Salt River. Two others, Apache Lake and Roosevelt Lake, are upstream. Canyon Lake lies approximately 15 miles up the Apache Trail.

A short distance further, Tortilla Flat now has a permanent population of six but once boasted a school, hotel, general store, and about 125 residents. The Tortilla Flat Stage Stop became a tourist attraction many years ago. Fire destroyed many of the buildings in 1987. Most have been restored, though not like they originally were.

Five miles up from Tortilla Flat, the road turns to dirt, but the scenery gets even more spectacular. The trail is filled with many twists and turns. Old-timers claim “a feller could meet hisself comin’ round one of them bends.” High cliff walls stand watch over both sides of the road as it goes through Fish Creek Canyon.

Fish Creek Hill is an experience in itself. It is steep, narrow, and slow going, but anyone can make it who drives with caution. The canyon narrows and then suddenly opens up to show a spectacular view of Geronimo Head.

Next is Apache Lake, surrounded by towering cliffs and majestic saguaros. There’s an excellent view of the Painted Cliffs and Goat Mountain across the water. Apache Lake has an marina, motel, and restaurant all in one spot.

The road runs alongside Apache Lake as it nears Roosevelt Dam. There is a good view of the dam from near water level.

The Apache Trail has stopping points to view the lake from above and take a good look at the bridge over Roosevelt Lake. At this spot one can head to Payson or stay on the trail to Roosevelt and Roosevelt Visitors Center operated by the Forest Service. The Tonto National Monument is just a few miles off the highway up in the mountains.

Worth Pondering…

History, although sometimes made up of the few acts of the great, is more often shaped by the many acts of the small.

—Mark Yost

Catch Cactus League Spring Training

10 stadiums. 15 MLB teams. 75-degree temperatures.

Follow your favorite baseball teams to Arizona for Cactus League Spring Training and catch all the big league action you can handle. While you’re here, spend some time playing the Arizona outfield with all the incredible dining, shopping, outdoor activities, and incredible sights within easy driving distance of the Phoenix Metro area.

Tempe

Tempe’s casual cool attracts those who enjoy the exciting feel of a college town. Stroll historic Mill Avenue in downtown to find great nightlife, shops, and restaurants. Explore aquariums and museums, paddleboard or kayak on Tempe Town Lake. “A” Mountain is just a few minutes away from the lake.

Or enjoy the sunshine with a hike around Papago Park, just north of “A” Mountain and Tempe Town Lake. A desert preserve Papago is home to hiking and biking trails and attractions such as Desert Botanical Garden, Phoenix Zoo, Pueblo Grande Museum, and Arizona Heritage Center.

Scottsdale / Fountain Hills

Fountain Hills © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

For the see and be seen scene, Scottsdale is the place to be. You’ll find luxurious resorts, chic nightlife, eclectic shopping, and award-winning dining, all with a splash of Southwestern charm. Scottsdale also has wonderful hikes and a booming art scene, so there’s no lack of entertainment even if you’re not a baseball buff.

Mesa

Mesa is quickly becoming a foodie destination with its innovative, local cuisine. And when you’re not watching a game or munching goodies, swing away at one of the area’s many golf courses or explore miles of desert mountain trails in nearby Usery Mountain Regional Park, one of 13 Maricopa County Regional Parks. The spectacular desert mountain scenery here is breathtaking.

Glendale / Goodyear

Sports fans may recognize Glendale as home to Arizona’s NFL and NHL teams. This sports mecca entertainment district is like a mini urban amusement park, with restaurants, wine bars, and outlet shops.

Apache Junction

Apache Junction is a suburban desert community nestled in the shadows of the Superstition Mountains, It is the easternmost community in the Phoenix Metro area. Each winter the city welcomes an estimated 35,000 snowbirds.

Named after the fabled lost gold mine, Lost Dutchman State Park is located in the Sonoran Desert, a few miles east of Apache Junction. Several trails lead from the park into the Superstition Wilderness and surrounding Tonto National Forest. Starting in Apache Junction, the Apache Trail offers magnificent views of the Superstition Mountains with forests of saguaro and several blue lakes.Visit the old-west style settlement of Tortilla Flat.

Phoenix

Phoenix is a hotspot of urban action and family fun. Head downtown to discover hip restaurants and eateries, concerts with the biggest artists and up-and-coming bands, family-friendly museums, and so much more. Or tackle an urban hike-with sweeping city views-on Camelback Mountain or South Mountain.

Peoria

Peoria is only about a half-hour northwest of Phoenix yet it’s flown under the radar until recently. Relaxed and family friendly, the Northwest Valley offers plenty of shopping, growing arts scene, and natural beauty. The cool blue Lake Pleasant is located in a Maricopa County regional park. The recreation area has campsites, hiking trails, boat ramps, and a Discovery Center where you can learn more about the area’s plants and wildlife.

Surprise / Litchfield Park

White Tank Mountains Regional Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

If you’re up for a little adventure, trek through trails in the nearby White Tank Mountains. Wildlife World Zoo, Aquarium & Safari Park has Arizona’s largest collection of exotic and endangered animals, with more than 600 separate species, rides, a petting zoo, and daily shows.

Worth Pondering…

Baseball, it is said, is only a game. True. And the Grand Canyon is only a hole in Arizona. Not all holes, or games, are created equal.
—George Will

Find Comfort and Warmth in these Snowbird Roosts

Expect a warm winter season at these popular snowbird destinations

Stop wishing winter away; ditch your wool socks, grab your sunglasses, and get ready to see a whole different side of winter in these destinations.

Suffering through a long winter season is optional. The endless summer is far more appealing—and doable in these popular winter RV destinations.

Laughlin, Nevada

Average high in February: 69 F

If your idea of a winter wonderland includes shorts weather and desert backdrops, then flap your snowbird wings and head to Laughlin. Sitting along the Colorado River, this Nevada hot spot has game rooms galore for those who get a thrill on the craps table, and endless nature for those who like to cast for striped bass and rainbow trout. No matter if you’re eyeing the buffet spreads or boating on nearby Lake Mohave, one thing is certain: Laughlin’s weather sure beats the frigid temperatures back home.

Snowbirds love to: Hike around the petroglyphs at Grapevine Canyon, and then chow down at one of the eateries in a riverside casino.

Harlingen, Texas

Average high in February: 73 F

Snowbirds are so prominent in this region that there’s a name for them: Winter Texans. Discover why they flock to the very southern tip of Texas with a visit to Harlingen, a southern city in the Rio Grande Valley. Just like people, birds migrate to this warm spot. Even in the height of winter, the mild weather affords you the opportunity to explore the Arroyo Colorado, where you can search for green jays and great kiskadees and 500 other species of birds that have been spotted in the area.

Snowbirds love to: Marvel at the masterpieces painted on the walls of downtown businesses, which are a part of the city’s beautifying Mural Project.

Phoenix, Arizona

Average high in February: 71 F

Snowbirds favor Phoenix. It’s not hard to figure out why. During the winter when the snow and rain flies up north, the Valley of the Sun offers up some of the greatest winter weather anywhere. Phoenix offers a variety of attractions that should satisfy some of the most discriminating tastes and leave some great life long memories.

One of the finest botanical gardens anywhere is in Papago Park. Home to one of the world’s largest cactus gardens, the variety of plants come from all over the world.

Snowbirds love to: Use their home base in the Phoenix area for day trips to Sedona, Prescott, the Grand Canyon, and to drive the Apache Trail.

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

Average high in February: 65 F

From dancing to shopping to exploring nature, Breaux Bridge offers a variety of activities for your enjoyment. It’s where food is almost a religion. Wander the quaint downtown streets of Breaux Bridge and you’ll find yourself transported back to a time before life became hectic. Breaux Bridge is the gateway to authentic Cajun culture in south Louisiana with traditional Cajun and funky Zydeco music, world-famous cuisine, and a rich history filled with interesting stories.

Snowbirds love to: Get up close and personal with ancient mossy cypress trees, majestic bodies of water, and of course, the alligators on an airboat tour of the Atchafalaya Basin.

Apache Junction, Arizona

Average high in February: 70 F

Apache Junction is a suburban desert community nestled in the shadows of the Superstition Mountains, 1,750 feet above sea level and 35 miles directly east of Phoenix. It is the easternmost community in the Phoenix Metropolitan area. Each winter the city welcomes an estimated 35,000 snowbirds. Starting in Apache Junction, the Apache Trail offers magnificent views of the Superstition Mountains with forests of saguaro and several blue lakes.

Snowbirds love to: Visit the old-west style settlement of Tortilla Flat.

Worth Pondering…

Recently I ran across a few lines by Pierre de Ronsard, a 16^th-century poet: “Live now, believe me wait not till tomorrow. Gather the roses of life today.” Maybe it’s time to stop dreaming about that trip you’ve always wanted to make—and just do it!