Written by Rex Vogel, RVing with Rex explores North America one meaningful place at a time through destination guides, history, slow travel, and thoughtful storytelling. Drawing on years of RV travel and firsthand experience, the site helps readers move beyond simply seeing places to truly experiencing them.
These road trips provide a variety of experiences and are designed to showcase the best of Utah’s natural beauty and outdoor activities
Utah is one of the top destinations in the US for outdoor adventurers, home to many of America’s bucket list hiking trails. With five national parks and 11 other National Park Service (NPS) sites (including national monuments, recreation areas, and conservation areas), it’s no surprise some of the most bucket-list-worthy national park road trips take place in Utah.
Utah’s national park sites protect some of the most unusual formations in the world. Hoodoos, natural bridges, mineral caves, and sheer canyon walls are just some of the dramatic structures road trippers can expect to find on a trip around Utah. From weekend loops to treks across the state, these Utah national park road trip routes are excellent ways to explore the national park sites in the Beehive State.
Tip: For those worried about the price tag of a national park road trip, consider investing in an America the Beautiful Parks pass, one of the best ways to visit national parks for cheap all year long. At $80, the pass grants free entry for the pass holder and their passengers to all NPS, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and USDA Forest Service sites for one year which can save a lot for those who recreate in these areas often.
The five national parks in Utah are perfectly spaced for one of the best national park road trips in the US with scenic stops and it is arguably the most popular road trip route in Utah.
Starting in Salt Lake City, travelers can point their loop toward either Zion National Park or Arches National Park. For those starting in Zion National Park, road trippers will slowly move east across Southern Utah before moving north, ending at Arches National Park and returning to Salt Lake City.
One of the great advantages of the Mighty Five road trip is the ability to add plenty of additional stops including Snow Canyon State Park near Zion and Goblin Valley State Park near Moab and Arches.
Road trip route: Salt Lake City → Zion National Park → Bryce Canyon National Park → Capitol Reef National Park → Canyonlands National Park → Arches National Park → Salt Lake City
Recommended time: 5–8 days
Note: There are a variety of ways to enjoy the Mighty 5 Utah road trip. For a more linear route, travelers can start in Salt Lake and go towards Arches National Park moving westward and ending in Zion National Park. This opens the possibility of heading to Las Vegas, Nevada (and nearby Valley of Fire State Park) instead of simply returning to Salt Lake at the end of the trip.
There are countless scenic Utah road trips ranging from just a few miles to all-day drives across the state. If even exploring half of the state isn’t quite possible one of the shorter Utah national park road trip itineraries through a small region may be the perfect solution. The Southeastern portion of Utah is rich in national and state park sites, ideal for a smaller-scale road trip.
Moab makes an excellent home base for this road trip sitting just outside Arches National Park and just an hour from Goblin Valley State Park one of the many Utah state park alternatives to Zion National Park and the perfect substitute for making the drive to the other side of the state.
At just 370 miles to drive, this loop is far more manageable for those looking for a long weekend-length road trip through Utah’s national parks.
Road trip route: Moab → Arches National Park → Canyonlands National Park → Goblin Valley State Park → Natural Bridges National Monument → Moab
The Alpine Loop is a favorite for local Utahns looking for an afternoon drive but with the right stops this drive can easily become an exceptional national park road trip in Utah.
The entirety of the Alpine Loop is, in fact, in Uinta National Forest. Camping opportunities along the Loop which stretches from American Fork Canyon to Provo Canyon are plentiful as are scenic hiking trails through the Aspen trees. The steep canyon walls also lend themselves to dramatic waterfalls like the scenic Stewart Falls Trail.
As a Utah national park road trip, however, there is one more can’t-miss stop on this weekend getaway. Timpanogos Caves National Monument in American Fork Canyon is one of Utah’s most unique national park sites requiring a moderate hike up switchbacks before reaching the caves themselves. Timpanogos Cave can only be explored as part of a tour but the stalactites and stalagmites in the damp mountain caves are well worth the effort.
Utah has eight dedicated national monuments in addition to the famous national parks. Seven of these national monuments work nicely to create one of the most unique and varied national park road trips in Utah from Salt Lake City.
Following I-15 from Salt Lake to American Fork, road trippers will first detour to the Alpine loop to explore Timpanogos Cave National Monument in Uinta National Forest. A challenging hike to a mountain cave, Timpanogos Cave is the perfect first stop before heading to the rocky terrain of the rest of the trip.
The other four national monuments are in the southern portion of the state. From the ancient structures of Hovenweep National Monument to the red rocks of Cedar Breaks National Monument, this expansive road trip is a chance to explore the hidden gems of Utah with fewer crowds but plenty of scenic national park views.
Road trip route: Salt Lake City → Timpanogos Cave National Monument → Bears Ears National Monument → Hovenweep National Monument → Natural Bridges National Monument → Rainbow Bridge National Monument/Glen Canyon National Recreation Area → Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument → Cedar Breaks National Monument → Cedar City
5. Zion National Park & Dixie National Forest Road Trip
NPS sites visited: 3
Zion National Park is the most-visited national park in Utah and was one of the most visited national parks in the US in 2023. Many travelers recommend spending two or even three days exploring this spectacular park including taking several scenic drives (or hopping on the eco-friendly shuttle) through the park.
Given the time spent in Zion National Park itself, limiting additional road trip stops might be necessary. By starting in Saint George in southwestern Utah, adventurers on a Utah national park road trip itinerary with scenic stops can stop in Red Cliffs National Conservation Area and Snow Canyon State Park on their way to Zion. After spending the desired time in Zion and potentially even taking on one of America’s most dangerous hikes (Angel’s Landing) the road heads north to Dixie National Forest.
One of the numerous hidden gem destinations in Utah, Dixie National Forest is full of unique attractions of its own including an arch that travelers can drive through and Red Canyon, one of the most underrated and worthwhile places to visit in Southern Utah.
Road trip route: Saint George → Snow Canyon State Park → Red Cliffs National Conservation Area → Zion National Park → Dixie National Forest
Recommended time: 4–6 days
Tip: Got more time? By ending in Dixie National Forest, Utah national park road trip travelers are well-positioned to add Capitol Reef and even Canyonlands National Park to the road trip itinerary.
Route 89 is often considered America’s most scenic road trip and for good reason. In its entirety, Route 89 visits seven national parks and 14 national park sites between Montana and Arizona. The Utah stretch of this picturesque drive takes travelers from Kanab in Southern Utah all the way to Bear Lake on the Utah-Idaho border.
The main national parks along this road are Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park, both of which have their own scenic drives and hiking trails. For those interested in going further north, views of national forests as well as opportunities to detour to major cities like Provo and Salt Lake City help balance the attractions along this one-of-a-kind Utah national park road trip route.
Road trip route: Kanab → Zion National Park → Bryce Canyon National Park → Provo → Salt Lake City → Logan → Garden City/Bear Lake
Arches National Park may host the highest concentration of natural arches and bridges in the world but there are actually three national park sites in Utah dedicated to these natural formations. Natural Bridges National Monument and Rainbow Bridge National Monument also protect one-of-a-kind arch formations and they combine nicely with Arches National Park for a themed Utah national park road trip itinerary.
Starting in Moab with Arches National Park, Utah road trippers can drive south towards Natural Bridges National Monument. This is where the road trip takes a bit of a turn. Rainbow Bridge National Monument is part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area meaning that guests can enjoy two national park sites at once.
However, while this may be a road trip getting to the Rainbow Arch itself won’t be that easy. The only way to see one Rainbow Bridge National Monument, one of the world’s largest natural bridges, is to take a boat ride from Lake Powell or take the multi-day 14-mile (each way) hike through the Navajo Nation. As the last stop of this national park road trip route in Utah, these exhausting excursions may be the perfect escape from the car for a grand road trip finale.
Road trip route: Moab → Arches National Park → Natural Bridges National Monument → Glen Canyon National Recreation Area/Rainbow Bridge National Monument
Entrance fee: $30/vehicle, valid for 7 days; interagency passes accepted
Top things to see and do: hiking trails, swimming, boating, scenic drives
Warning: Arches National Park is one of several US national parks that require timed entry reservations in 2025. Be sure to visit the National Park Service website to get a timed entry reservation made ahead of time.
Worth Pondering…
Utah’s landscapes are a symphony of stone sculpted by wind and water.
Utah is home to five of the most stunning national parks in the United States. Throw in some national monuments and a few spectacular state parks and you have a extraordinary road trip destination. If you are planning your Utah national parks itinerary, I have tons of information to share with you.
Are you ready to embark on the ULTIMATE Utah national park road trip? Buckle up because you’re in for a treat! From the towering cliffs of Zion to the mesmerizing hoodoos of Bryce Canyon and the jaw-dropping arches of Moab is an outdoor lover’s paradise. This 30-day itinerary is packed with the best spots, hidden gems, and plenty of awe-inspiring views.
We’ll kick things off in Salt Lake City and head south to explore some of the most iconic national parks in the U.S. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just love a good scenic drive there’s something here for everyone. Plus, I’ll throw in some tips and must-see sights along the way to make your journey smooth and unforgettable.
Grab your map, load up your playlist, and let’s hit the road! Your epic Utah adventure starts now.
Planning a road trip through Utah’s national parks is an exciting adventure but it can feel a bit overwhelming with so much to see and do. Don’t worry—I’ve got you covered with some tips to make this journey as smooth and enjoyable as possible.
First off, give yourself plenty of time. Ideally, a month is perfect to truly soak in all the beauty and excitement Utah has to offer. But if you’re short on time, you can always break the trip into shorter sections and explore a couple of parks at a time.
Make sure to pack smart. The weather in Utah can be unpredictable—hot during the day and chilly at night especially in the desert. Bring layers, plenty of water, sunscreen, and a good wide-brimmed hat. And don’t forget your hiking boots for those epic trails.
Also, don’t forget to stay flexible. Sometimes the best experiences come from unplanned detours. If a local suggests a hidden gem or a trail looks too inviting to pass up, go for it!
Beyond the national parks, there are also several state parks and rustic towns you’ll want to check out. I’ve included all of my favorite spots in the itinerary below.
I’ll break down each destination in detail below giving you tips to make your journey as smooth and enjoyable as possible.
I’ll cover everything from the soaring cliffs of Zion to the unique rock formations of Arches ensuring you hit all the highlights without any hassle.
Salt Lake City is the perfect starting point for your Utah National Park road trip. Not only is it a bustling urban hub with plenty to see and do but it’s also a great place to gather supplies and gear up for your adventure. Plus, the city is rich in history and surrounded by stunning natural beauty making it a great spot to spend a couple of days before you hit the road.
Here are some specific tips and recommendations to make the most of your time here.
Salt Lake City bucket list:
Temple Square: This iconic site is the heart of Salt Lake City and a must-visit. The grounds are beautifully maintained and you can take a free tour to learn about the history and architecture of the Salt Lake Temple. The Tabernacle Choir often performs here so check the schedule to catch a rehearsal or performance.
Great Salt Lake: Just a short drive from downtown, the Great Salt Lake is the largest saltwater lake in the Western Hemisphere. Antelope Island State Park is a great spot to visit for hiking, wildlife viewing (think bison and antelope), and stunning lake views. Pack a picnic and enjoy the scenery!
City Creek Center: This open-air shopping center is perfect for picking up any last-minute supplies. It has a wide range of stores from outdoor gear to clothing and plenty of dining options to fuel up before your journey.
Red Butte Garden and Arboretum: If you’re visiting in spring or summer, the botanical gardens here are in full bloom. It’s a peaceful spot to wander and enjoy the local flora. They also host outdoor concerts in the summer which is a real treat.
Utah State Capitol: The Capitol building offers free guided tours and stunning views of the city from its hilltop location.
Salt Lake City is the last major urban center before you head into the more remote areas of Utah. Make sure to stock up on essentials like water, snacks, and camping gear. REI and other outdoor stores have everything you need.
Looking to spend some extra time in and around Salt Lake City? Before heading to the national parks, I recommend exploring the natural beauty and interesting destinations that surround SLC. Here are some 10 must-see day trips:
1. Antelope Island State Park
This island in the Great Salt Lake offers stunning views, hiking trails, and wildlife including bison. The scenic drive around the island is perfect for a day of exploration.
2. Park City
Just 30 minutes from Salt Lake City, Park City is famous for its ski resorts and charming downtown. Visit the Utah Olympic Park or take a ride on the Alpine Slide in summer.
3. Bonneville Salt Flats
Experience the otherworldly landscape of the Bonneville Salt Flats about 90 minutes west of the city. The vast, white expanse is perfect for photos and a unique walking experience.
4. Great Salt Lake Marina
Head to the marina for boating, bird watching, and picnicking. The sunsets over the lake are breathtaking and offer great photo opportunities.
5. Big Cottonwood Canyon
This canyon is ideal for hiking, rock climbing, and scenic drives. Don’t miss the beautiful hikes to Lake Blanche or Donut Falls.
6. Heber Valley
Enjoy a ride on the Heber Valley Historic Railroad, go fishing, or take a scenic drive. In winter, the area offers excellent snowmobiling and cross-country skiing.
7. Timpanogos Cave National Monument
Explore the stunning cave formations with a guided tour. The hike to the cave entrance is steep but offers great views of the American Fork Canyon.
8. Ogden
Visit this historic city for its vibrant downtown, outdoor adventure opportunities, and attractions like the Hill Aerospace Museum.
9. Snowbird
Even in summer, Snowbird offers activities like the mountain coaster, aerial tram rides, and beautiful hiking trails.
10. Mirror Lake Scenic Byway
This 42-mile drive through the Uinta Mountains offers stunning views, numerous lakes, and plenty of spots for picnicking and fishing.
11. Provo
Explore the beautiful Provo Canyon, hike to Bridal Veil Falls, or visit the BYU campus and its museums.
These trips provide a mix of nature, adventure, and relaxation all within easy reach of Salt Lake City. I recommend adding at least a few of these spots before heading south to Utah’s incredible national parks.
Zion National Park, Utah’s first national park is a treasure trove of breathtaking canyons, towering cliffs, and stunning vistas. It’s around 3.5 hours south of Salt Lake City so it’s pretty manageable to do the journey all in one go.
Known for its diverse trails and incredible scenery, Zion is a must-visit on any Utah road trip. The park’s unique geology and vibrant ecosystems make it a paradise for hikers, nature lovers, and photographers alike.
Plan to spend at least 2-3 days in Zion though 4-5 days is even better. I recommend staying in Springdale which is on the southern entrance of the park. I consider it one of the most beautiful towns in the US—from virtually every hotel in town you’ll have incredible views of the region’s red rocks.
Here are my top recommendations on what to see and do.
Angel’s Landing: This iconic hike is not for the faint of heart but offers some of the most spectacular views in the park. The 4.3-mile trail is steep and includes sections with chains for support. Start early in the morning to avoid the midday heat and crowds. You’ll need to reserve a permit online in advance.
The Narrows: For a unique adventure, hike through the Virgin River in The Narrows. This slot canyon hike involves wading and sometimes swimming through the river. Rent water shoes and a walking stick from a local outfitter to navigate the slippery rocks. Check the weather forecast and water levels as flash floods can be dangerous.
Canyon Overlook Trail: This short, moderate hike offers stunning views of Zion Canyon. It’s a great option if you’re short on time or looking for a less strenuous hike. The trail is just one mile round trip and is perfect for sunrise or sunset.
Emerald Pools: The Emerald Pools Trail is a series of trails leading to beautiful waterfalls and pools. The lower pool is an easy hike while the upper pools require a bit more effort. This trail is great for families and offers a mix of shade and sun.
Riverside Walk: If you’re looking for a leisurely stroll, the Riverside Walk is a paved trail that follows the Virgin River. It’s an easy, scenic walk suitable for all ages and abilities offering beautiful views of the canyon walls and lush vegetation.
Kolob Canyons: Located in the northwest corner of the park, Kolob Canyons is a less crowded area with stunning red rock formations and peaceful trails. The five-mile scenic drive provides great viewpoints and access to several hikes.
If you plan to camp, book your site well in advance. South Campground and Watchman Campground are popular options within the park. For a more rustic experience, try backcountry camping with a permit. For a full-service RV park I recommend Zion River Resort in Virgin and Settlers Ranch in Washington.
Less than a couple of hours from Zion is another incredible national park in Utah. Bryce Canyon National Park is famous for its otherworldly landscape of spire-shaped rock formations known as hoodoos.
These unique geological structures, coupled with the park’s stunning amphitheaters make Bryce Canyon a photographer’s dream and a hiker’s paradise. The park’s elevation (ranging from 8,000 to 9,000 feet) means cooler temperatures and spectacular stargazing opportunities.
I recommend spending at least one day here on your Southwest road trip. There’s not a whole lot to cover in the park so even 8-12 hours will give you a good taste of Bryce Canyon though 2-3 days will give you more time to explore the beautiful hiking trails throughout the park.
Sunrise Point and Sunset Point: Start your day early at Sunrise Point to catch the first light illuminating the hoodoos. Later, head to Sunset Point for breathtaking evening views. Both points are easily accessible and offer stunning panoramic vistas of the Bryce Amphitheater.
Navajo Loop Trail: This is my #1 favorite trail in Bryce which takes you down into the heart of the canyon. Hike through Wall Street, a narrow slot canyon with towering rock walls, and climb up through the famous Thor’s Hammer formation. It’s a moderate 1.3-mile loop that’s a must-do.
Queen’s Garden Trail: Combine this trail with the Navajo Loop for an extended hike. The Queen’s Garden Trail is relatively easy and leads you through a garden of hoodoos. Look out for the Queen Victoria formation at the end of the trail.
Bryce Point: For one of the most dramatic views in the park drive or hike to Bryce Point. It offers an expansive view of the hoodoo-filled amphitheater. This spot is particularly stunning at sunrise or sunset.
Fairyland Loop Trail: If you’re up for a longer hike, the Fairyland Loop is an 8-mile trail that offers a quieter, less crowded experience. The trail winds through vibrant rock formations and provides spectacular views of Fairyland Canyon.
Stargazing: Bryce Canyon is designated as a Dark Sky Park making it one of the best places for stargazing. Attend a ranger-led astronomy program or simply lay back and enjoy the night sky.
Parking can be limited especially during peak season. Use the free shuttle system to travel between major viewpoints and trailheads. The shuttle reduces traffic and makes getting around the park hassle-free.
Days 9-11: Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
Ready for another epic road trip spot in Utah? Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is a vast and rugged area known for its stunning canyons, unique rock formations, and remote wilderness.
Spanning nearly 1.9 million acres, this monument offers countless opportunities for adventure and exploration. The area’s diverse landscapes and lesser-known trails provide a more solitary experience compared to other national parks.
To truly experience the beauty and diversity of Grand Staircase-Escalante, plan to spend at least 2-3 days. This allows you to explore multiple areas, hike several trails, and take in the scenic drives without feeling rushed.
Plan to stay in the small town of Escalante, the gateway to the monument and offers various accommodation options, making it one of the unique places to stay in Utah. Alternatively, Boulder is a great option which is about 30 miles northeast.
Here are my tops spots to visit in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument:
Lower Calf Creek Falls: This is one of the most popular hikes in the monument and for good reason. The 6-mile round trip trail leads to a stunning 126-foot waterfall surrounded by lush vegetation. The trail is relatively flat and suitable for most fitness levels.
Devil’s Garden: Located along the Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Devil’s Garden is a whimsical area filled with hoodoos, natural arches, and balanced rocks. It’s a great spot for photography and exploration.
Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons: For a more adventurous experience, hike the Peek-a-Boo and Spooky slot canyons. These narrow, winding canyons are fun to navigate but can be challenging due to tight squeezes and some scrambling. The trailhead is located off Hole-in-the-Rock Road and it’s best to visit in spring or fall when temperatures are moderate.
Escalante Petrified Forest State Park: Just outside the town of Escalante this state park features trails through areas with large deposits of petrified wood. The Petrified Forest Trail is a 2-mile loop that offers great views and fascinating geological features. The park also has a campground if you’re looking to stay overnight.
Burr Trail: This scenic drive takes you through some of the most beautiful parts of Grand Staircase-Escalante. The road winds through colorful canyons and offers numerous pullouts for photos and short hikes. It’s partially paved but some sections may require a high-clearance vehicle.
Hole-in-the-Rock Road: This historic dirt road leads to a number of incredible trailheads and scenic viewpoints. The road can be rough, so a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended. Highlights along the road include Dance Hall Rock, Forty Mile Ridge, and the trailhead for the Coyote Gulch hike.
After a day of exploring, treat yourself to a meal in the town of Escalante. I recommend Escalante Outfitters for delicious pizza and a laid-back atmosphere. For breakfast, stop by Kiva Koffeehouse for great coffee and stunning views. These are some of the coolest restaurants in Utah.
Capitol Reef National Park is a hidden gem in Utah known for its colorful cliffs, canyons, domes, and the historic Fruita district. The park’s Waterpocket Fold, a unique geologic monocline (a wrinkle on the earth) stretches nearly 100 miles and offers some of the most diverse and stunning landscapes in the state.
This lesser-visited park is the perfect road trip destination with many sights and overlooks just off the main road. I recommend spending at least a day here though 2-3 days is preferred to see all the highlights.
What to look out for on a road trip through Capitol Reef
Fruita Historic District: Start your visit in the heart of the park at the Fruita Historic District. This area is home to the historic Fruita Orchards where you can pick fresh fruit in season. The Gifford Homestead sells homemade pies and other treats which are perfect for a snack or picnic. Visit the historic schoolhouse and the blacksmith shop to get a glimpse into the pioneer life.
Scenic Drive: The 8-mile Scenic Drive takes you through the heart of Capitol Reef’s stunning landscapes. The road is paved for the first few miles then turns to dirt.
Capitol Gorge Trail: This easy 2-mile round trip hike follows the historic Capitol Gorge where you can see petroglyphs and the Pioneer Register, a rock wall where early settlers carved their names. The trail also features the “tanks,” natural water pockets that collect rainwater.
Hickman Bridge Trail: This moderate 2-mile round trip hike leads to the impressive Hickman Bridge, a natural rock arch. The trail offers fantastic views of the surrounding canyons and cliffs. It’s a great hike for families and provides plenty of opportunities for photography.
Cassidy Arch Trail: For a more challenging hike try the Cassidy Arch Trail. This 3.4-mile round trip hike offers spectacular views and leads to an arch named after the infamous outlaw Butch Cassidy.
Chimney Rock Loop: This moderate 3.6-mile loop trail offers panoramic views of the park and takes you past Chimney Rock, a prominent sandstone formation. The trail provides great opportunities for photography especially at sunrise or sunset.
Cathedral Valley: For an off-the-beaten-path adventure, explore Cathedral Valley. This remote area features striking rock formations like the Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon. A high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended and it’s best to check road conditions before heading out. The Cathedral Valley Loop is about 58 miles and offers incredible scenery.
The Capitol Reef Scenic Drive is a must. It’s 8 miles long and showcases some of the park’s most stunning landscapes. The drive is paved for the first 2.2 miles and then turns to a well-maintained dirt road. If you have more time, consider exploring the Burr Trail and Notom-Bullfrog Road for additional scenic views.
Goblin Valley State Park is an extraordinary destination known for its unique landscape filled with thousands of mushroom-shaped rock formations known as hoodoos or “goblins.” This surreal and otherworldly environment makes it a fantastic stop on your Utah road trip. The park’s quirky formations and fun hiking opportunities offer a memorable experience for visitors of all ages.
Here’s a list of my top attractions in Goblin Valley:
Valley of Goblins: This is the main area of the park where you can wander among the bizarre rock formations. There are no designated trails here so you’re free to explore at your own pace. Climb on the goblins, take lots of photos, and enjoy the unique scenery. This area is especially fun for kids and those who enjoy a bit of off-trail wandering.
Goblin’s Lair: For a more structured adventure hike to the Goblin’s Lair. This 3-mile round trip hike leads to a large cavern hidden among the rock formations. The hike starts from the Carmel Canyon Trailhead and requires some scrambling but the destination is well worth the effort.
The Three Sisters: This iconic trio of rock formations is a must-see and is easily accessible from the main parking area. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the park so be sure to stop by and capture a few shots.
Carmel Canyon Loop: This 1.5-mile loop trail offers a different perspective of the park. The trail provides scenic views of the goblins from above and takes you through some interesting geological features.
Crack Canyon: If you have more time and are up for a bit of adventure head to nearby Crack Canyon. This slot canyon offers a more challenging hike with narrow passages and some light scrambling. It’s located outside the main park area so check with the visitor center for directions and current conditions.
Goblin Valley is surrounded by areas that are perfect for off-roading and ATV adventures. Nearby, you’ll find the San Rafael Swell and Temple Mountain areas which offer fantastic off-road trails. Make sure your vehicle is suitable for rugged terrain and always check with the visitor center for trail conditions and regulations.
Home to over 2,000 natural stone arches, Arches National Park is a wonderland of unique geological formations. The park’s stunning red rock landscapes, iconic arches, and diverse hiking trails make it a highlight of any Utah road trip. With some of the most famous and photogenic rock formations in the world, Arches offers endless opportunities for exploration and adventure.
Moab is the perfect base for exploring the natural wonders of southeastern Utah. The town itself offers a range of dining options, quirky shops, and plenty of opportunities for adventure, making it a must-visit on your road trip. It also has some of the nicest campgrounds in the southwest.
Here are some of my favorite attractions to explore in Arches National Park:
Delicate Arch: The most famous arch in the park, Delicate Arch is a must-see. The hike to Delicate Arch is 3 miles round trip and moderately strenuous with some steep sections and exposed rock. Start early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds and heat.
Double Arch: Located in the Windows Section of the park, Double Arch is an easy 0.5-mile round trip hike from the parking area. The massive arch is one of the tallest in the park and offers great opportunities for photography and climbing around the base.
Devils Garden: This area features some of the park’s longest and most scenic trails. The Devils Garden Trail offers several hiking options ranging from easy to challenging. Highlights include Landscape Arch (the longest arch in North America), Double O Arch, and the Primitive Loop. The full loop is 7.8 miles and includes some rock scrambling, so be prepared.
Balanced Rock: This iconic formation is easily accessible and visible from the park road. It’s a great spot for a quick stop and photo opportunity. The short, easy trail around Balanced Rock is just 0.3 miles.
The Windows and Turret Arch: The Windows Section is home to several large and impressive arches including North Window, South Window, and Turret Arch. The hike through this area is about 1 mile round trip and offers stunning views and easy access to multiple arches.
Fiery Furnace: For a unique and adventurous experience explore the Fiery Furnace. This maze of narrow canyons and towering fins requires a permit or a guided tour. The guided tour is highly recommended for first-time visitors and offers insights into the park’s geology and ecology.
Park Avenue:This trail offers a dramatic introduction to Arches’ stunning rock formations. The 2-mile round trip hike takes you through a canyon with towering walls that resemble a city skyline.
During peak season, Arches National Park requires a timed entry reservation to manage crowd levels. Make sure to book your entry time in advance on the park’s website. Arrive early to ensure you get a spot and to enjoy the park with fewer people.
After a long day exploring the park, I recommend checking out the town of Moab.
Main Street: Start your exploration by strolling down Main Street. It’s filled with unique shops, art galleries, and restaurants. Be sure to check out Moab Rock Shop for interesting minerals and fossils and pop into Back of Beyond Books for a great selection of local literature and maps.
Moab Giants Dinosaur Park: Just a short drive north of town this park is great for families and anyone interested in paleontology. Walk among life-size dinosaur replicas, explore interactive exhibits, and check out the 3D theater. It’s a fun and educational stop.
Hell’s Revenge 4×4 Trail: For thrill-seekers, Hell’s Revenge offers one of the best off-roading experiences in Moab. You can either drive your own 4×4 or join a guided tour. The trail features steep climbs, descents, and incredible views of the La Sal Mountains and the Colorado River.
Colorado River rafting: Spend a day on the water with a rafting trip down the Colorado River. There are various options ranging from calm scenic floats to more adventurous white-water trips.
Moab Museum: Dive into the local history at the Moab Museum. It’s a small but well-curated museum showcasing the region’s geological, cultural, and historical significance. Exhibits include Native American artifacts, pioneer history, and the uranium mining boom.
Dead Horse Point State Park: While you’ve already explored this park it’s worth revisiting for sunrise or sunset if you missed it.
Scenic byways: Drive along Scenic Byway 128 or Scenic Byway 279 for incredible views of the Colorado River and the surrounding red rock formations.
La Sal Mountain Loop Road: For a change of scenery, take the La Sal Mountain Loop Road. This scenic drive takes you into the La Sal Mountains, offering cooler temperatures, alpine forests, and great picnic spots. It’s a refreshing break from the desert heat.
Corona Arch: This less-crowded arch is a great alternative to the more famous arches in Arches National Park. The 3-mile round trip hike is moderately challenging and offers stunning views of the arch and the surrounding landscape.
Sand Flats Recreation Area: This area is famous for its slickrock biking and off-roading trails including the famous Slickrock Bike Trail. Whether you’re biking, hiking, or driving, the views are incredible.
Visiting Moab in the off-season (late fall, winter, early spring) can provide a quieter experience with fewer crowds. Many businesses remain open year-round and the cooler temperatures are perfect for outdoor activities.
Perched 2,000 feet above a gooseneck in the Colorado River this park provides stunning panoramic vistas of canyon country. Legend has it that the park got its name from a natural corral used by cowboys in the 19th century where horses tragically died from exposure. Today, it’s a haven for photographers, hikers, and anyone seeking awe-inspiring landscapes.
Dead Horse Point State Park is just 30 minutes from Moab so it’s easy to cover in a half or full-day trip. Check out my favorite places to visit.
Coolest experiences in Dead Horse Point State Park
Dead Horse Point Overlook: The main overlook provides a jaw-dropping view of the Colorado River and the surrounding canyonlands. It’s a short walk from the parking area making it accessible for all visitors. Arrive early in the morning or stay for sunset to capture the most stunning light.
East Rim and West Rim Trails: These trails offer spectacular views and can be hiked as a loop. The East Rim Trail is about 1.5 miles one way and the West Rim Trail is about 2 miles. Both trails provide numerous overlooks and are relatively easy making them suitable for all fitness levels.
Mountain biking: Dead Horse Point is known for its excellent mountain biking trails. The Intrepid Trail System offers trails for all skill levels with names like Great Pyramid and Big Chief.
Visitor Center: The visitor center offers exhibits about the park’s geology, history, and wildlife. The staff can provide maps and tips on the best spots to visit based on the time of year and your interests.
Camping: The Kayenta Campground and the Wingate Campground offer campsites with stunning views, picnic tables, fire pits, and modern restrooms with showers. Both campgrounds have RV and tent sites.
Dead Horse Point is a designated International Dark Sky Park making it one of the best places for stargazing. Bring a telescope or binoculars or simply lay back and enjoy the Milky Way. Check the visitor center for information on stargazing programs and events.
Welcome to Canyonlands National Park, the largest national park in Utah. It’s just under an hour from Moab making it very convenient to visit.
The park is divided into four distinct districts: Island in the Sky, The Needles, The Maze, and the rivers—the Green and Colorado. Each area is like its own mini-park offering everything from epic hikes to off-road thrills. Whether you’re here to snap some pics or dive into the wild, Canyonlands has something for everyone.
Top highlights of visiting Canyonlands
Island in the Sky District: This is the most accessible and popular area of the park offering expansive views from overlooks along the paved scenic drive. Highlights include Mesa Arch, Grand View Point, and the White Rim Road. The district is ideal for short hikes and scenic drives making it perfect for those with limited time. Watching the sunrise at Mesa Arch is a must-do activity providing breathtaking views as the sun illuminates the arch and surrounding landscapes.
The Needles District: Located in the southeastern part of the park, this area is known for its colorful sandstone spires and tall rock formations. The Needles Scenic Drive offers a 20-mile route through a valley with canyon walls and pointy red rock formations. Hikers and backpackers can explore several backcountry trails leading to remote campsites and hidden canyons. The Cave Spring Trail and Aztec Butte are popular for their ancient Puebloan ruins and panoramic views.
The Maze District: This remote and rugged area requires more time and advanced planning to explore. It is ideal for those seeking a more isolated and adventurous experience. The Maze is accessible by 4WD vehicles and offers opportunities for hiking and backpacking in a unique desert landscape.5Balanced Rock: This iconic formation is easily accessible and visible from the park road. The short, easy trail around Balanced Rock is just 0.3 miles.
White Rim Road: A 100-mile loop road that circles the Island in the Sky district, the White Rim Road provides stunning views of the canyons and rivers below. It is accessible by 4WD vehicles and is a popular route for scenic drives and off-road adventures.
Upheaval Dome: This unique geological feature is a circular structure that rises from the desert floor. It is believed to be the result of a salt dome or a meteor impact. The Upheaval Dome Trail offers a short hike to this intriguing site providing insights into the park’s geological history.
Stargazing: Canyonlands is known for its incredibly clear night skies making it an excellent location for stargazing. The park offers ranger-led stargazing tours which are a great way to learn about the constellations and the night sky.
Historical and cultural sites: The park has a rich history with evidence of habitation by various Native American tribes including the Ancestral Puebloans, Fremont, and Ute peoples. Visitors can explore ancient ruins and petroglyphs such as those found at Aztec Butte and the Cave Spring Trail.
Many roads in Canyonlands especially those in The Maze and some parts of The Needles require a high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle. Always check road conditions at the visitor center before heading out as roads can become impassable after rain.
Be aware of the weather especially during the monsoon season (July to September). Flash floods can occur quickly in canyons and washes. If there’s a forecast for rain, avoid hiking in narrow canyons and always have an escape route.
Named after the twin buttes that resemble a bear’s ears, the monument covers over 1.35 million acres and is home to ancient cliff dwellings, rock art, and an array of outdoor activities. It’s a relatively new addition to the national monuments in the U.S. designated in 2016 and offers a unique and less-crowded experience.
Top Experiences in Bears Ears National Monument
House on Fire Ruin: This iconic Ancestral Puebloan ruin is named for its unique appearance under certain lighting conditions which makes it look like it’s on fire. The 1-mile hike to reach the ruin is relatively easy and follows a creek bed.
Mule Canyon: Located near the House on Fire Ruin, Mule Canyon features additional ruins and rock art. The North and South Mule Canyon Trails offer easy hikes with opportunities to explore ancient structures.
Butler Wash Ruins: This site features well-preserved cliff dwellings. A short, 1-mile round trip hike from the parking area takes you to an overlook with interpretive signs explaining the history and significance of the ruins.
Valley of the Gods: Often compared to Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods offers stunning red rock formations and scenic vistas. The 17-mile dirt road through the valley is suitable for most vehicles, but high-clearance is recommended, especially after rain.
Cedar Mesa: This area is rich in archaeological sites including cliff dwellings, petroglyphs, and pictographs. Sites like Moon House, Fallen Roof Ruin, and Citadel Ruin require permits and are accessible via moderately challenging hikes.
Bears Ears Buttes: The twin buttes themselves are accessible via a scenic drive and offer panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The area around the buttes is sacred to many Native American tribes, so treat it with respect.
More helpful tips on visiting Bears Ears National Monument
There are several primitive campsites within the monument particularly on Cedar Mesa. Dispersed camping is also allowed in many areas but make sure to follow all regulations. Pack out all trash and respect the natural environment. For more amenities, consider staying in Bluff or Mexican Hat.
Bears Ears is a sacred place for many Native American tribes. Respect all cultural and historical sites by not touching or removing any artifacts, staying on marked trails, and following Leave No Trace principles.
The monument is home to three of the largest natural bridges in the world: Sipapu, Kachina, and Owachomo. These impressive rock formations were carved by water erosion over millions of years and offer a unique and serene experience away from the crowds of more popular parks. Here are some of my favorite experiences throughout the area.
Top spots in Natural Bridges National Monument
Scenic Drive: The nine-mile scenic loop drive through the monument offers easy access to all three bridges. There are several pullouts and viewpoints along the way making it a perfect introduction to the park.
Sipapu Bridge: This is the largest and most impressive bridge in the park. The hike to Sipapu Bridge is about 1.2 miles round trip and involves a steep descent with stairs and ladders. The trail is moderately challenging but provides stunning views and a close-up look at the bridge.
Kachina Bridge: The hike to Kachina Bridge is about 1.4 miles round trip and is moderately strenuous. The trail descends into the canyon and follows a series of switchbacks. Kachina Bridge is known for its massive size and the petroglyphs on its walls.
Owachomo Bridge: The hike to Owachomo Bridge is the shortest and easiest at just 0.4 miles round trip. This makes it perfect for families and those looking for a less strenuous walk. Owachomo Bridge is the thinnest and most delicate-looking of the three bridges and it’s particularly photogenic at sunrise and sunset.
Horsecollar Ruin: For a glimpse into the area’s ancient history, hike the 1.5-mile round trip trail to Horsecollar Ruin. This well-preserved Ancestral Puebloan site features cliff dwellings and offers a fascinating look into the lives of the region’s early inhabitants. The trail is moderately challenging with some steep sections.
Stargazing: Natural Bridges was designated as the world’s first International Dark Sky Park making it one of the best places for stargazing. The night sky here is incredibly clear, offering spectacular views of the Milky Way. Bring a telescope or binoculars.
Before your visit, take some time to learn about the monument’s history and geology. The Natural Bridges website and various guidebooks can provide valuable background information that will enrich your experience.
Monument Valley is an iconic symbol of the American West known for its towering sandstone buttes, mesas, and panoramic vistas. Located on the Arizona-Utah border, it’s part of the Navajo Nation Reservation and holds significant cultural and spiritual meaning for the Navajo people. Monument Valley has been featured in numerous films making its dramatic landscapes instantly recognizable.
Make sure to visit these top locations in Monument Valley:
Valley Drive: The 17-mile Valley Drive is a self-guided dirt road that loops through the heart of Monument Valley. The road is rough so a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. If you don’t have a suitable vehicle, consider booking a guided tour. The drive includes many iconic formations such as the Mittens, Merrick Butte, and John Ford’s Point.
Guided tours: I highly recommend taking a guided tour led by a Navajo guide. These tours provide valuable insights into the history, culture, and geology of the area. Options include jeep tours, horseback rides, and hiking tours. The guides can take you to areas not accessible by the public Valley Drive such as Mystery Valley and Hunts Mesa.
John Ford’s Point: Named after the famous director who filmed many Westerns in Monument Valley, John Ford’s Point offers a spectacular viewpoint. It’s a great spot for photography especially at sunrise and sunset. There are often Navajo vendors selling handmade crafts which make for unique souvenirs.
Hiking: While hiking opportunities in Monument Valley are limited due to the sacred nature of the land, the Wildcat Trail is an exception. This 3.2-mile loop trail starts near the visitor center and circles around West Mitten Butte. It’s the only self-guided hiking trail in the park and offers a closer look at the butte’s impressive formations.
Remember that Monument Valley is a Navajo Tribal Park which is sacred to the Navajo people. As such, visitors are expected to respect the land and culture. Follow all park rules, stay on designated paths, and don’t climb on the rock formations. Always ask for permission before photographing Navajo people.
After exploring the stunning landscapes and cultural sites of southern Utah, it’s time to head back to Salt Lake City. This vibrant city offers a mix of outdoor activities, historical sites, and modern amenities. Whether you’re looking to unwind, explore more attractions, or enjoy a final meal, Salt Lake City has plenty to offer making it one of the top places to live and visit in Utah.
Here are two routes to consider:
Scenic Route: If you have time, consider taking a scenic route back to Salt Lake City. Highway 191 to Highway 6 offers beautiful desert and mountain landscapes. The drive takes about 6 hours so plan for rest stops and photo opportunities along the way.
Direct Route: For a quicker drive, take US-191 North to I-70 West, then I-15 North directly to Salt Lake City. This route is about 5.5 hours.
Here are some top tips for your ride back:
Fuel Up: Before leaving Monument Valley make sure to fill up your fuel tank. There are limited services along the route back to Salt Lake City so it’s best to start with a full tank.
Rest Stops: Plan for rest stops along the way. Good spots include Green River where you can visit the John Wesley Powell River History Museum and Price where you can stop at the Western Mining & Railroad Museum.
Revisit favorite spots: If you have extra time, revisit any favorite spots in Salt Lake City that you didn’t get enough of at the beginning of your trip. Whether it’s a favorite restaurant, park, or museum, it’s a great way to wrap up your adventure.
Vehicle maintenance: Before hitting the road, check your vehicle’s tire pressure, oil levels, and other maintenance needs to ensure a smooth and safe journey.
Things to consider when planning your Utah National Park road trip
Before you pack your bags and hit the road, here are a few key things to consider before setting off on an adventure through Utah’s stunning national parks.
Where to start your Utah National Park road trip
Kicking off a road trip through Utah’s national parks is exciting but where should you begin? Starting in Salt Lake City is your best bet.
Best time of year for a Utah National Park road trip
Timing is everything when planning a road trip through Utah’s national parks. Each season has its own charm, so let’s break down the best times for your trip.
Spring: Spring is a fantastic time to visit. The weather is mild and the desert landscapes burst into bloom with wildflowers. However, spring can bring unpredictable weather so pack layers and be prepared for cool mornings and evenings.
Summer: Summer is hot but doable if you plan accordingly. Aim for early morning hikes and activities then relax during the hotter parts of the day. Many parks have higher elevations so it can be cooler than you might expect. Be sure to carry plenty of water and sunscreen.
Fall: Fall is arguably the best time to visit. The temperatures are cooler making hiking more enjoyable. The fall colors in places like Zion and Capitol Reef add a beautiful touch to the already stunning landscapes.
Winter: Winter brings fewer crowds and a peaceful atmosphere. Some higher elevations may see snow, which can be both beautiful and challenging. Bryce Canyon is particularly stunning with a dusting of snow. Make sure your vehicle is winter-ready and check road conditions before you go.
Number of days for a Utah National Park road trip
The length of your road trip depends on how many parks you want to visit and how much time you have. Here’s a quick guide:
7-day trip: A week is enough to visit the highlights. You can explore Zion, Bryce Canyon, and Capitol Reef, with a few days in each park to take in the main sights and enjoy some hikes.
10-day trip: With 10 days you can add Arches and Canyonlands to your itinerary. This gives you more time to fully explore each park and take some longer hikes or scenic drives.
2 weeks or more: If you have two weeks or longer, you can dive deeper into each park, visit lesser-known areas, and take more time to relax and enjoy the surroundings. Consider adding stops like Grand Staircase-Escalante, Goblin Valley, and Dead Horse Point State Park for a more comprehensive Utah adventure.
Additional destinations to explore on your Utah National Park road trip
If you find yourself with extra time and a desire to uncover more of Utah’s spectacular landscapes and unique attractions, consider adding these fantastic stops to your Utah National Park itinerary:
Fishlake National Forest: A beautiful and tranquil area known for Fish Lake, the largest natural mountain lake in Utah. Enjoy fishing, boating, and hiking in the lush forests. The aspen groves here are especially stunning in the fall.
Cedar Breaks National Monument: This hidden gem features a natural amphitheater with brilliant red and orange rock formations. The elevation provides cooler temperatures and lush alpine meadows, perfect for summer hiking and wildflower viewing.
Antelope Island State Park: Located in the Great Salt Lake this state park offers unique landscapes, abundant wildlife, and stunning views of the lake. Drive or bike the island’s roads, hike to the top of Frary Peak, and watch for bison and pronghorn.
Dinosaur National Monument: Straddling the Utah-Colorado border, this monument is a paradise for paleontology enthusiasts. Visit the Quarry Exhibit Hall to see real dinosaur fossils embedded in rock, and explore the monument’s scenic drives and hiking trails.
Snow Canyon State Park: Near St. George, this park boasts a dramatic landscape of red and white Navajo sandstone, lava flows, and sand dunes. It’s a great place for hiking, rock climbing, and photography.
Bonneville Salt Flats: Experience the surreal landscape of the Bonneville Salt Flats, a vast expanse of hard, white salt crust. It’s a unique spot for photography and is famous for land speed records.
Here are some popular questions (and answers) about planning a road trip through Utah’s incredible national parks.
What does a 7-day trip itinerary for Utah’s national parks look like?
If you only have a week to explore Utah’s national parks, here are the must-see stops to include in your road trip:
Day 1: Start your adventure in Salt Lake City. Visit Temple Square, Utah State Capitol, and the Great Salt Lake.
Day 2-3: Drive to Zion National Park. Hike the Narrows or Angels Landing, explore Emerald Pools, and enjoy the stunning views.
Day 4: Travel to Bryce Canyon National Park. Hike the Queen’s Garden and Navajo Loop and enjoy the views from Sunset and Sunrise Points. Camp overnight.
Day 5: Head to Capitol Reef National Park. Explore the scenic drive through the Waterpocket Fold, visit the historic Fruita area, and hike to Hickman Bridge. Stay overnight in Torrey.
Day 6: Continue to Arches National Park. Hike to Delicate Arch, visit Double Arch and Landscape Arch, and enjoy the breathtaking scenery. Stay overnight in Moab.
Day 7: Spend the day at Canyonlands National Park. Explore the Island in the Sky district, visit Mesa Arch, and hike to Grand View Point. Return to Moab for the night.
Arches National Park: Delicate Arch, Double Arch, Landscape Arch
Canyonlands National Park: Mesa Arch, Grand View Point, Island in the Sky.
What vehicle should I use on a Utah National Park road trip?
A high-clearance SUV or a 4×4 vehicle is recommended due to the rugged terrain and dirt roads you’ll encounter especially in places like Canyonlands and Bears Ears. These vehicles offer better handling and comfort on both paved and unpaved roads. Make sure your vehicle is in good condition with reliable tires and sufficient fuel capacity. Renting a suitable vehicle is a good option if your personal car isn’t up to the task.
Worth Pondering…
As we crossed the Colorado-Utah border I saw God in the sky in the form of huge gold sunburning clouds above the desert that seemed to point a finger at me and say, “Pass here and go on, you’re on the road to heaven.”
Dive into the incredible sacred stories behind our favorite national parks and sites during National American Indian Heritage Month
Long before Europeans arrived, Paleo-Indians first settled North America around the end of the Ice Age, some 14,000 years ago. Since then, many Indigenous groups have made these lands home. Though the Indigenous history of the United States is often overlooked, there are numerous fascinating parks and monuments to learn more about the history of America, many of which have stood for thousands of years.
Here are 14 landmarks that delve into America’s Indigenous history.
For more than 700 years, the area of Colorado that’s now Mesa Verde National Park was home to the Ancestral Puebloans. Though they had previously been nomadic, they settled in the area around 550 AD living in pit houses built on top of mesas and into cliff recesses.
Through the generations those evolved into structures built of adobe and poles—some with as many as 50 rooms—and eventually to kivas, pueblos made of stone. But around 1200, they shifted back to living in the cliffside into the dwellings that Mesa Verde is most known for today.
A generation or two after those canyon alcove homes were built the population—believed to have reached several thousand—abandoned the entire area. Now the national park which was established in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt to “preserve the works of man” also protects the heritage of 26 associated tribes including the Taos of New Mexico, Hopi of Arizona, and Ute Mountain of Colorado.
Connected with the nearby Mesa Verde community, the Hovenweep area traces its first human inhabitants back more than 10,000 years ago when nomadic Paleo Indians would pass through to hunt and gather seasonally. In about 900 DC the area started to become a more permanent home and 300 years later the population reached about 2,500. The remnants of six villages that were built between 1200 and 1300 are now preserved there.
Among the most impressive are the differently shaped towers constructed by the ancestral Puebloans. By the end of the 13th century the area was abandoned but Hovenweep (which means deserted valley in Ute or Paiute) has been protected as a national monument since 1923—preserving the cultures of the Pueblo, Zuni, and Hopi peoples.
Human settlement in central Georgia dates back nearly 17,000 years ago to the Ice Age when nomadic Paleo Indians settled in the area. Around 1000 BC small villages formed but it wasn’t until 900 DC that a society emerged known as the Mississippans who built the site’s trademark Ocmulgee Mounds out of dirt and clay.
Among the circular earthen structures are temple mounds, a cornfield mound, and a funeral mound. The importance of the Indigenous site is evidenced by the fact that the area is on track to becoming Georgia’s first national park possibly this year. Visitors can duck inside a re-created earthlodge for a taste of what life was like in the mound which still has sections of the original 1015 DC floor.
The five-floor, 20-room apartment complex built into the side of the limestone cliff in Arizona’s Verde Valley has long intrigued visitors as one of the most well-preserved prehistoric cliffs in the country. Estimated to have been built between 1100 and 1350 DC, the site is named Montezuma Castle which comes from the Aztec emperor even though it’s historically unlikely that he ever came to the area.
Now it’s more widely believed to have been the home of the pre-Columbian Sinagua peoples who left the region in the 15th century. As one of the nation’s first national monuments dedicated in 1906, President Roosevelt said it was a place of great “ethnological value and scientific interest.”
It takes quite a monument to become the nation’s first archeological preserve and Casa Grande Ruins National Monument had all the right qualifications when it was dedicated in 1892. As the largest known structure built by the Gila Valley’s Hohokam tribe (who lived in the region since 5550 BC), Casa Grande—which translates to Great House—was built in the 14th century using 3,000 tons of caliche soil.
The durable structure has four-foot-thick walls at the bottom and Juniper pine and fir tree timbers as support. Also preserved in the area are remnants of the tribe’s farming community dating from 1150 to 1350.
Tuzigoot National Monument sits on top of a hill overlooking a valley. An ancient village of the Sinagua overlooks a marsh on top of a hill here, a hilltop pueblo, one of the largest in the area. The self-guided, third-of-a-mile trail through and around the 110-room ancient pueblo also offers gorgeous views of Verde River and Tavasci Marsh.
Explore the Tuzigoot museum which highlights ceramics, textiles, and tools found during the excavation of Tuzigoot pueblo. Spend time with a ranger and learn about the Sinagua and the lives they led in the Verde Valley.
Bears Ears National Monument includes red rock, juniper forests, high plateau, and an abundance of early human and Native American historical artifacts. The Navajo Nation, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Hopi Nation, and other tribes are tied to this land.
Native American Indians have been engraving and drawing on Newspaper Rock for more than 2,000 years. Their markings in these ruins tell the stories, hunting patterns, crop cycles, and mythologies of their lives.
Newspaper Rock is located 15 miles west of U.S. 191 along the 41-mile Indian Creek Corridor Scenic Byway (S.R. 211) in Bears Ears National Monument now part of the 71,896-acre Indian Creek unit designated December 4, 2017 by U.S. President Donald Trump.
8. Trail of Tears National Historic Trail, Georgia to Oklahoma
The Indian Removal Act in 1830 forced major tribes including the Choctaws, Muscogee Creeks, Seminoles, and Chickasaw to leave their homelands and move west of the Mississippi to what is now Oklahoma. After initially resisting, the Native Americans eventually were forced to give in and escorted to their new homes by the U.S. Army troops in what was called the Trail of Tears. In total, 16,000 Cherokees alone were taken from Tennessee, Alabama, North Carolina, and Georgia.
Today, a 5,043-mile pathway through nine states commemorates the suffering—as well as the resilience—along that journey with sites that include the Museum of the Cherokee Indian in Cherokee, North Carolina; the Trail of Tears Commemorative Park in Hopkinsville, Kentucky; and the Cherokee Heritage Center in Tahlequah, Oklahoma.
Petroglyph National Monument protects one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America featuring designs and symbols carved onto volcanic rocks by Native Americans and Spanish settlers 400 to 700 years ago. These images are a valuable record of cultural expression and hold profound spiritual significance for contemporary Native Americans and for the descendants of the early Spanish settlers.
Petroglyphs are rock carvings (rock paintings are called pictographs) made by pecking directly on the rock surface using a stone chisel and a hammerstone. When the desert varnish (or patina) on the surface of the rock was chipped off, the lighter rock underneath was exposed creating the petroglyph. Archaeologists have estimated there may be over 25,000 petroglyph images along the 17 miles of escarpment within the monument boundary.
It is estimated 90 percent of the monument’s petroglyphs were created by the ancestors of today’s Pueblo people. Puebloans have lived in the Rio Grande Valley since before 500 A.D. but a population increase around 1300 A.D. resulted in numerous new settlements. It is believed that the majority of the petroglyphs were carved from about 1300 through the late 1680s.
These include the Boca Negra Canyon with 100 carvings, the 2.2-mile loop of Rinconada Canyon with 300 of them, and the 1.5-mile Piedras Marcadas trail with a whopping 400 petroglyphs. The symbols are believed to have spiritual meaning—about 90 percent of them are the work of the ancestors of the Pueblos who have lived in the Rio Grande Valley since 500 AD.
Note: The National Park Service will host Indigenous Families Weekend in honor of Native American Heritage Month at the Petroglyph National Monument Visitor Information Center on Saturday and Sunday November 16-17, 2024.
The event kicks off Saturday, November 16 at 9 am with a 4-mile trail run hosted by Native Health Initiative and Running Medicine. The run will start from the escarpment trail next to La Cuesta parking lot located off Unser Blvd and Western Trail taking participants through Rinconada Canyon and back. The run will be followed by an opening ceremony and demonstrations by Indigenous artisans, informational tables featuring local organizations, children’s activities, and a food truck at our National Park Service VIC until 2 pm. At 11:30 am in the VIC amphitheater there will be a performance by the Lightning Boy Hoop Foundation. A guided hike will take place at 1 pm starting from the Rinconada Canyon trailhead, located at the intersection of St. Joseph’s Avenue and Unser Blvd.
The event continues Sunday, November 17 starting at 10 am with demonstrations, children’s activities, informational tables, and a food truck at the VIC until 2 pm. At 11 am, local Indigenous author Laurel Goodluck will conduct a story time featuring her book, She Persisted: Deb Haaland, in the amphitheater. Free books will be provided to the first 25 children in attendance. A guided hike will take place at 12:30 pm starting from the Piedras Marcadas Trailhead at Jill Patricia St. at 9501 Golf Course Rd. NW 87114.
Aztec Ruins National Monument is the largest Ancestral Pueblo community in the Animas River Valley. In use for over 200 years, the site contains several multi-story buildings called great houses, each with a great kiva—a circular ceremonial chamber—as well as many smaller structures. Excavation of the West Ruin in the 1900s uncovered thousands of well-preserved artifacts that provide a glimpse into the life of Ancestral Pueblo people connecting people of the past with people and traditions of today.
11. Monument Valley (Tse Bii’ Ndzisgaii), Arizona and Utah Most known for its appearance in films such as Forrest Gump (when Forrest decides he’s tired and stops running in the center of the road) and the old John Wayne cowboy flicks, the breath-taking Tse Bii’ Ndzisgaii remains much as it did back in the 1930s. The site holds the story of monsters who once plagued the people before the Hero Twins and female deity worked together to turn the monsters to stone. It is those monsters who remain as monuments of this gorgeous desert valley.
Long before the United States existed, there were many civilizations throughout the lands that now make up the country. Today, visitors can learn about the history and heritage of these lands in the Four Corners region on the Trail of the Ancients. The route is found in the states of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona.
The Trail of the Ancients explores many of the state parks, Indian reservations, national parks, and national monuments of the region. On this trail, people can see some of the best landscapes of the region along with some of the land’s deepest history. But it’s not all about history; people will also see the enduring traditions and practices of the Ancient’s living descendants today.
A comparatively little-known canyon, Canyon de Chelly (pronounced de shay) has sandstone walls rising up to 1,000 feet, scenic overlooks, well-preserved Anasazi ruins, and an insight into the present day life of the Navajo who still inhabit and cultivate the valley floor.
People have lived in the canyon for more than 5,000 years, archaeologists believe, making it the longest continuously inhabited area on the Colorado Plateau. Ancient ruins are tucked along its cliffs, as are centuries-old pictographs.
From the mesa east of Chinle in the Navajo Nation, Canyon de Chelly is invisible. Then as one approaches, suddenly the world falls away—1,000 feet down a series of vertical red walls.
The crown jewel of the park is Waterpocket Fold, the second largest monocline in North America, a feature that is often described as a wrinkle in the Earth’s crust resembling a coral reef turned inside out. This one-of-a-kind landscape has sustained human life since long before European settlers knew about it. From the ancient Paleo-Indians who roamed here some 12,000 years ago to the more recent Ute and Southern Paiute peoples who were displaced from it, the land we now know as Capitol Reef has a much deeper and richer history than the average visitor knows.
Carved into the sandstone formations in Fruita is the Fremont Petroglyphs, chipped rock art depicting animals, people, shapes, and other forms indicative of their hunter/gatherer existence. The petroglyphs can be seen on several large panels east of the park visitor center on UT Highway 24. There is parking, a boardwalk, and viewing platforms making it easy for all to catch a glimpse of the intriguing relics.
I love national parks but they can get packed especially in summer. These national monuments have the same spectacular landscapes, hikes, and adventures just without the hordes.
What is a national monument, anyway? That’s what I kept asking myself as we hiked around rock pinnacles twisting through mazes of narrow rock formations on the Big Loop in Chiricahua National Monument.
The scenery is stunning, the landscape huge…so how is it different than a national park? It turns out, not all that much, at least from a visitor’s standpoint. Most national monuments protect vast landscapes of environmental, cultural, or scenic importance. Ditto national parks.
The real difference is how they’re created: national parks are voted into place by Congress, national monuments are designated by presidents via the Antiquities Act. With monuments there’s less red tape but sometimes more drama (see Bears Ears, below). Also, while many national monuments are managed by the park service some are managed by the U.S. Forest Service and others are run by the Bureau of Land Management.
There are 133 national monuments scattered across the U.S. often no less magnificent than their more famous national-park cousins. Sometimes they have fewer amenities (many lack visitor centers, some have no paved roads), and most of them have fewer crowds. Meanwhile the adventure is just as epic.
I’ve gathered 11 of the greatest national monuments in the country. Most of these monuments aren’t famous but all deserve to be on your bucket list.
Sandwiched between Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon, Grand Staircase Escalante gets its name from the series of plateaus that descend between those two massive and scenic ditches. Not to be outdone by its more famous neighbors which covers 36,000 and 1.2 million acres respectively, Grand Staircase is nearly 1.9 million acres of colorful sandstone canyons, cliffs, and arches.
Adventure: Connecting Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Slot Canyons in the Dry Fork area of Grand Staircase-Escalante makes for the perfect entry into this unique terrain. It’s a three-mile loop but plan on a whole afternoon exploring the narrow red- and purple-walled gulches. Some of the passages in Spooky get tight and there is mandatory scrambling but no technical climbing is required.
If you want to explore more technical canyons, Excursions of Escalante has been guiding canyoneering trips in the monument for more than two decades and offers a rotating roster of full-day adventures packed with rappels (from $225 per person).
Rising 200 feet above the valley floor, this massive sandstone bluff was a welcome landmark for weary travelers. A reliable year-round source of drinking water at its base made El Morro a popular campsite in this otherwise rather arid and desolate country.
At the base of the bluff—often called Inscription Rock—on sheltered smooth slabs of stone, are seven centuries of inscriptions covering human interaction with this spot.
This massive mesa point forms a striking landmark. In fact, El Morro means “the headland.” From its summit, rain and melted snow drain into a natural basin at the foot of the cliff, creating a constant and dependable supply of water. The pool also attracts birds, coyotes, deer, and other wild creatures.
Beginning in the late 1500s Spanish, and later, Americans passed by El Morro. While they rested in its shade and drank from the pool, many carved their signatures, dates, and messages.
El Morro National Monument is home to two trails.
The 0.75 mile Inspiration Trail takes you to the pool and past hundreds of Spanish and American inscriptions and prehistorical petroglyphs. The trail is paved and the main 1/2 mile loop is wheelchair-accessible with assistance.
The 2-mile Headline Trail includes the Inscription Loop and takes you to the top of the El Morro bluff. It is a moderately strenuous trail with a gain of 224 feet of elevation. Much of the upper section of the trail is on uneven sandstone so sturdy footwear is recommended.
Named after twin buttes rising from the desert floor of Southeastern Utah, Bears Ears National Monument has seen more than its share of debate since it was established by President Obama in 2016. The 1.36-million-acre monument is a place of scenic glory and cultural significance: massive red rock cliffs and canyons abound and a bevy of Native American historical artifacts from cliff dwellings to pictographs have been found here.
Today, the Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Navajo Nation, Hopi Tribe, Ute Indian Tribe, and Zuni Tribe all participate in stewardship of Bears Ears as a sacred place. In 2022, the Biden administration signed an agreement that gives those five tribes input into management of the area, and the five Tribes of the Bears Ears Commission (the Commission) and federal agencies released a draft management plan this year.
As for recreation, the Indian Creek Unit in the northern section of Bears Ears is a mecca for climbers who come for the seemingly endless number of cracks in the red rock cliffs. Hikers and bikers follow trails and view artifacts across the region.
Adventure: Bears Ears holds world-class climbing. There are thousands of climbing routes though not many for beginners. Supercrack Buttress has a high percentage of classic climbs including the historic Supercrack of the Desert, a sustained and strenuous 5.10+. Consider a full-day guided climbing adventure in Indian Creek with the Moab-based Cliffs and Canyons (from $220 per person).
To see some of the cultural artifacts within Bears Ears, hike an easy five-mile out and back through Mule Canyon where the payoff is access to a series of cliff dwellings tucked into a sandstone overhang. The most notable home has been dubbed house on fire because of the fire-red-toned rock that forms its ceiling. The hike itself is relatively flat as it traverses the dry gorge, with some optional scrambling up sandstone slopes at the end.
There are three designated campgrounds in Indian Creek, all first-come, first-served ($15 a night). Hamburger Rock has 10 sites tucked into mushroom-shaped outcroppings. Always bring plenty of water; there’s no potable water at any of the established campgrounds.
A comparatively little-known canyon, Canyon de Chelly (pronounced “de shay”) has sandstone walls rising up to 1,000 feet, scenic overlooks, well-preserved Anasazi ruins, and an insight into the present day life of the Navajo who still inhabit and cultivate the valley floor.
People have lived in the canyon for more than 5,000 years—longer than anyone has lived uninterrupted anywhere on the Colorado Plateau. In the place called Tsegi, their homes and images tell us their stories. Today, Dine’ families make their homes, raise livestock, and farm the lands in the canyons. Ancient ruins are tucked along its cliffs, as are centuries-old pictographs.
From the mesa east of Chinle in the Navajo Nation, Canyon de Chelly is invisible. Then as one approaches, suddenly the world falls away—1,000 feet down a series of vertical red walls.
The sheer walls, shaped and smoothed by thousands of years of rain and wind, provide a dramatic backdrop for those who still live and farm within the canyon.
The northernmost and southernmost edges are accessible from paved roads—the North and South Rim drives. The South Rim Drive offers the most dramatic vistas, ending at the most spectacular viewpoint, the overlook of Spider Rocks—twin 800-foot towers of rock isolated from the canyon walls and a site of special significance for the Navajo.
Adventure: The best way to experience the canyon up close is to join a Navajo-led tour. On excursions into Canyon de Chelly visitors can hike, ride in Jeeps, or travel on horseback into areas with lush valley floors surrounded by sheer sandstone cliffs. Along the trails, guides point out ancient pueblo ruins built by their ancestors and share areas that have been cherished for generations. White House Ruins can be seen from one of the overlooks on South Rim Drive but the public hiking trail has been closed for safety concerns.
Natural Bridges National Monument covers a relatively small area in southeastern Utah. It is rather remote and not close to other parks and as a result is not heavily visited.
Since natural bridges are formed by running water, they are much rarer than arches which result from a variety of other erosion forces. Natural bridges tend to be found within canyons sometimes quite hidden whereas arches are usually high and exposed as they are often the last remnants of rock cliffs and ridges.
Unlike Arches National Park with over 2,000 classified arches, there are only three natural bridges here. The area also has some scattered Indian cliff dwellings, pictographs, and scenic white sandstone canyons.
Several names have been applied to the bridges. First named President, Senator, and Congressman by Cass Hite, the bridges were renamed Augusta, Caroline, and Edwin by later explorer groups. As the park was expanded to protect nearby Puebloan structures, the General Land Office assigned the Hopi names Sipapu, Kachina, and Owachomo to the bridges in 1909.
Sipapu means the place of emergence, an entryway by which the Hopi believe their ancestors came into this world. Kachina is named for rock art on the bridge that resembles symbols commonly used on kachina dolls. Owachomo mean rock mound, a feature atop the bridge’s east abutment.
A nine mile one-way loop drive connects pull-outs and overlooks with views of the three natural bridges. Moderate hiking trails, some with metal stairs or wooden ladders, provide closer access to each bridge. An 8.6-mile hiking trail links the three natural bridges which are located in two adjacent canyons.
Adventure: If you are really up for a challenge, consider tackling a long loop trail. Three loop trails are found in the park and each takes you to multiple natural bridges. The full loop is 12-miles long but you will pass all three natural bridges. This is no easy trail and can be quite strenuous in some areas.
The richly diverse volcanic landscape of El Malpais National Monument offers solitude, recreation, and discovery. There’s something for everyone here. Explore cinder cones, lava tube caves, sandstone bluffs, and hiking trails. While some may see a desolate environment, people have been adapting to and living in this extraordinary terrain for generations.
In El Malpais many trails are actually routes marked with cairns. Instead of a well-defined path clearly visible on the landscape, a series of rock piles called cairns are used to trace a route across the land. These routes are common on lava landscapes, where creating a traditional trail or footpath is not possible due to the extreme nature of the terrain.
Adventure: El Calderon Area offers a sampling of all of the features that make El Malpais so unique: lava tubes, cinder cones, and lava flows. The first mile of the trail passes by the entrances to several lava tube caves including Bat Cave where you can see Mexican free-tailed bats fly out on warm summer evenings. The trail then climbs through a ponderosa forest to the top of El Calderon cinder cone, a small volcano that last erupted somewhere between 30,000 to 60,000 years ago and created the lava tube caves you hiked by at the start of the trail.
From the cinder cone, either hike along primitive road for a shortcut back to the parking lot or continue across the younger Twin Craters lava flow (approximately 18,000 years old) to the Continental Divide Trail junction to return to your vehicle.
The full hike is a 4.8 mile figure-8 loop. The larger loop is 3.5 miles through piñon-juniper forest and stands of ponderosa pine while the other loop is 1.1 miles along the cinder cone rim. The full hike can be shortened by hiking a dirt road that bisects the main trail back to the parking lot.
About 120 miles east of Tucson, Arizona lies a sea of monolithic wonders forged in volcanic fury. Here, thousands of rocky hoodoos twist skyward under a vivid blanket of stars. The Martian-like landscape is crawling with rare creatures and abstract natural phenomena unlike any you’ve ever seen.
Twenty-seven million years ago, a series of volcanic eruptions rapidly covered 1,200 square miles with ash. The hot ash deposits (tuff) compressed into rock—welded tuff—and as it cooled, it contracted and cracked allowing wind, water, and freeze/thaw cycles to erode these towering cylindrical shapes.
Dubbed the The Land of Standing-Up Rocks by the Apache, Chiricahua’s iconic rhyolite pillars earned it national monument status back in 1924.
Seeing the best of Chiricahua doesn’t necessarily mean lacing up your hiking boots: Bonita Canyon Scenic Drive serves as the perfect gateway to adventure. This eight-mile drive provides access to scenic pullouts, trailheads, and Bonita Canyon Campground. Enjoy the scenic drive as it rambles through cypress, oak, and pine forests and climbs to Massai Point where you’ll gaze over a sea of trippy hoodoos, distant mountain ranges, and surrounding valleys from a 6,880-foot vantage.
Adventure: Overall, there are 17 miles of day-use hiking trails snaking through the monument ranging from easily accessed to knee-shaking.
The ultimate physical test has to be The Big Loop. Landing at the top of the list of the most strenuous trails in the monument, the 9.5-mile loop twists through mazes of rhyolite formations and it’s peppered with scenic outlooks which make the trek through those elevation changes worth the sweat. Tackling the Big Loop gets you up close and personal with the monument’s most notable (and aptly named) geologic formations like Camel’s Head, Kissing Rock, and Big Balanced Rock.
Hidden within the mountains above Cedar City is the brilliant geology and vibrant environment of Cedar Breaks National Monument. The geologic amphitheater and surrounding environs are home to cool hiking trails, ancient trees, high elevation camping, and over-the-top views along the Circle of Painted Cliffs.
Cedar Breaks’ majestic amphitheater is a three-mile-long cirque made up of eroding limestone, shale, and sandstone. Situated on the western edge of the Markagunt Plateau, the raised area of earth located in Southern Utah between Interstate 15 and Highway 89, the monument sits entirely above 10,000 feet. The Amphitheater is like a naturally formed coliseum that plunges 2,000 feet below taking your eyes for a colorful ride through arches, towers, hoodoos, and canyons.
Adventure: For extreme hikers with wayfinding and backcountry experience, the Cedar Breaks area also offers a hike on par with Zion National Park‘s Subway. The Rattlesnake Creek Trail in the Ashdown Gorge Wilderness is a 2–3 day hike just outside the park boundary that crosses mostly designated wilderness in the Dixie National Forest and drops into the amphitheater below the canyon rim.
Since national monuments often lack the same infrastructure as national parks they may not have the staff on-site to help with questions, clean up campsites, or offer guidance. It’s super important to practice Leave No Trace principles in these monuments and be aware of the cultural importance of the landscape.
Many of these properties encompass the historical territory of Native Peoples and contain artifacts that are important to their heritage. Be kind and respectful, leave what you find, and whenever you have the opportunity use local guides and purchase items from local shops.
Worth Pondering…
However one reaches the parks, the main thing is to slow down and absorb the natural wonders at leisure.
Avoid the masses but not the epic adventures at these breathtaking under-the-radar desert landscapes around Moab
From Jurassic-era dunes and prehistoric petroglyphs to amber-tinted cliffs and spires, Moab is an adventure traveler’s dream. Located in the heart of the Colorado Plateau, this small city in southeast Utah is one of North America’s greatest outdoor recreation hubs and a gateway to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.
Millions of years of erosion by ancient oceans, freshwater lakes, streams, and windblown dunes shaped this region’s 2,400 square miles of sandstone arches, picturesque mountain peaks, Martian-like rock formations, and colorful mesas and canyons.
Mountain bikers, hikers, campers, climbers, paddlers, and off-road drivers arrive in droves to explore this red rock playground in jaw-dropping numbers—more than 3 million visitors annually.
With increasing use come big problems! Overcrowding and overuse of trails, campgrounds, and recreation facilities led Arches to institute a timed entry reservation system between April and October. Other popular national parks have implemented similar measures encouraging people to come during off-peak times or explore other nearby recreation areas.
For adventurers and nature lovers who want to see more of the great outdoors—and less of each other—here are five tips to beat the crowds and explore the elements in Moab this spring.
Many of the private RV parks, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and state and federally owned campgrounds demand ample planning time. Campgrounds closer to U.S. Route 191 and Utah Routes 128 and 279 along the Colorado River (The Riverway) usually fill up by mid-morning.
Getting one of the 51 campsites at Devils Garden Campground—the only developed campsite in Arches—can be challenging without some pre-trip planning. During the high season (March 1-October 31), sites are reservable up to six months in advance. But from November 1 to February 28 when temperatures are cooler, the campground is first-come, first-served.
For fewer crowds, venture to Canyon Rims Recreation Area, an hour’s drive south of Moab on Route 191. It has two campgrounds to stage your hiking, biking, and driving adventures—Hatch Point in the north and Windwhistle in the south which rarely fills up and don’t require reservations. Be sure to stop at one of the park’s visitor centers and ranger stations to get the scoop on current park conditions and for other trail and campground suggestions.
Parks closer to downtown Moab (just five miles from Arches National Park) are usually slammed with eager outdoor enthusiasts, especially during summer months. While spring (April through May) and fall (mid-September through October) still have crowds, they are some of the best times to score prime campsites and experience uncrowded trails, climbing routes, and iconic arches around the city.
During the busy seasons, visiting Moab can be kind of overwhelming but the public lands around Moab offer remarkable remote experiences.
With breathtaking views into Canyonlands National Park and the Colorado River 2,000 feet below, Dead Horse Point State Park, a 40-minute drive south of Moab is a highlight for hikers and photographers exploring canyon country. The park, named for an era when cowboys corralled wild mustang herds on the high mesa is also a terrific first outing for bikers new to the area. The 16-mile Intrepid Trail System offers a variety of single-track loops and slickrock (Moab’s weathered sandstone) sections that allow all ages and abilities to experience incomparable cliff-top and canyon vistas.
Drive further south to Canyon Rims, a 100,000-acre BLM-maintained land between Moab and Monticello to peer over one of three spectacular overlooks—Anticline, Minor, and Needles. Each offers unique views of Canyonlands’ Islands in the Sky and Needles Districts and Bears Ears National Monument’s Indian Creek and Lockhart Basin sections. These sites are comparable to those seen from the rim of the Grand Canyon but without the shoulder-to-shoulder visitor experience.
With its seven new non-motorized trails, updated signage, and fresh markings on existing trails plus stunning views of the Salt Valley and Arches National Park, Klondike Bluffs should be on every biker’s list. Just a 30-minute drive north of Moab, this 58-mile single-track trail on dirt and slickrock includes 26 named paths from beginner to advanced which can be combined into loops of any length. It’s the first trail that visitors pass on the way to Moab from I-70 in the north making it the most accessible for cyclists coming from Denver or Salt Lake City.
Further into the park is the Dinosaur Stomping Grounds hiking trail which features several dinosaur trackways and individual dinosaur prints. Paleontologists believe Utah was part of an island landmass called Laramidia where a wide range of dinosaur species roamed more than 75 million years ago.
Recreation areas south of Moab such as Canyon Rims and Bear Ears National Monument are usually less crowded due to fewer developed trail systems. Take a scenic drive through Utah’s vibrant vermillion canyons, over plateaus of mesas and buttes, and around the region’s open plains of grass and shrubland.
In Canyon Rims, travelers may spot pronghorn antelope near Hatch Point and can cruise to remote overlooks with breathtaking views of Canyonlands and the Colorado River.
Rather than endure the hours-long wait to see Delicate Arch in Arches, drive an hour south of Moab to reach Bear Ears’ Indian Creek Scenic Byway. This 40-mile-long route takes travelers through flat-top buttes and colossal sandstone towers. Along the way, make a pitstop at Newspaper Rock, one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in the world.
A hike around Moab’s natural spaces reveals deep red canyons, buttes, and pinnacles. Summer brings high temperatures and midday crowds around Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. To get around that, experienced adventurers plan their hikes and bike rides in the morning and evening, bringing the best sunlight for photography. To help photographers, the NPS has created a table of the park’s notable landscape features and the best time to photograph them.
For a quieter trek outside the national parks head three miles from the Hatch Point campground in Canyon Rims to Trough Springs Canyon trail a relatively easy five-mile roundtrip hike. It starts at the top of the plateau and descends 2.5 miles into the canyon where a creek flows year-round. The path continues through the waterway’s riparian zone, riddled with tamarisk, cottonwoods, and willow. Follow the stream into the larger Kane Creek Canyon where a popular but difficult 4×4 off-road trail of the same name invites adventurers to explore.
Downstream, where Kane Creek approaches the Colorado River, travelers find several ancient rock art sites, including Moonflower Canyon Panel, Elephant Panel, and False Kiva. The drawings resembling bighorn sheep and hunters with spears along with crescent moons, lightning bolts, and snakes tell the story of the nomadic Puebloans (formerly called Anasazi) who briefly farmed and built dwellings and granaries—used to store squash, maize, and beans—around the region.
Even today, potsherds (or pottery fragments) can be found poking out of the sand near surviving granaries but visitors should be careful to leave these artifacts untouched.
Worth Pondering…
…the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth—there is nothing else like it anywhere.
—Edward Abbey, American author and former ranger at Arches National Park, on Canyonlands
Experiencing the peace of Southern Utah in winter is an attraction of its own
Find your sense of adventure and awe in the vast yet intricate swaths of the desert from Arches National Park to Monument Valley. This magical landscape is awash in history dating back thousands of years to the original Native American settlers to whom these places were sacred.
A journey through Southern Utah is an expansive geological paradox: It’s vast and wide-open…empty. Yet, up close, this landscape bears the most intricate topography imaginable: twisting slot canyons, towering rock formations, winding rivers cutting through eons of rock layers, and ancient dwelling sites bringing history within reach.
During the winter, the sense of awe is heightened. Not only are the dramatic red, orange, and sandy desert hues brightly lit by the low wintery sun but they may be topped with touches of white snow—a photographer’s dream. In the off-season, the summer crowds are long gone. It’s just you and the silent, crisp desert air.
This itinerary guides you through classic Southern Utah vistas, archaeological sites, geographic marvels, and sacred Native American lands including Bears Ears National Monument.
Keep in mind that while winter is an extraordinarily beautiful time to visit this corner of the world, the roads can at times be wet, icy, or snowy, especially on some of the remote roads you’ll be traveling. It’s a very smart move to use a four-wheel-drive vehicle with good tires and plenty of water and snacks packed along. As any seasoned cowboy could tell you, you’ll never regret bringing extra snacks. (Read:A Winter’s Desert: Visiting Southern Utah in the Slow Months)
Start: Green River or Salt Lake City
Finish: Mexican Hat
Hours of drive time: 11-14 depending on starting point; plan at least six hours for return to Salt Lake by car, longer in an RV
Day 1: See Arches National Park in its full winter glory
If you’re starting from the Salt Lake City area initially, drive south to Green River the night before your itinerary begins to shave three hours of drive time off your first day. If you can’t, plan an early departure from Salt Lake to make the most of your time in Arches and Moab. Arches National Park is world-famous for good reason which attracts quite the dense summer crowds. Now, mid-winter, you can truly take its wonders in with plenty of breathing room. Take a few short hikes: Delicate Arch is one of the most classic vistas in the state, so start there. Then add a walk through Devil’s Garden if you can. (Read:The 5 Best Hikes in Arches National Park)
Wrap the day warming back up in an RV resort in Moab and fuel up with tasty pub fare and a pint. If you’re up for it, inquire at the Arches Visitor Center about ranger-led stargazing for the evening. Arches and Dead Horse Point State Park both have International Dark Sky Designations which means you can experience unforgettable stargazing free of urban light pollution. (Read:Immense Cliffs and Stunning Overlooks: Dead Horse Point)
Get ready for another big day, this time taking in the beauty of the Colorado River canyon east of Moab. Stop for a hike in the classic Grandstaff Canyon (just two miles each way reaching one of the longest rock spans in the country, Morning Glory Natural Bridge).
Once you get to the Castle Valley area, you’ll take a scenic stroll around Fisher Towers. This is one of the most exquisite hikes in the area because the towers and surrounding rock formations look different—and equally amazing—from every angle. The trail covers approximately 2.5 miles each way so go the entire distance if you have the energy. (Read:Moab’s Scenic Byways)
Day 3: Peer into the wilds of the Canyonlands Needles District
Fuel up and get ready for a day that won’t disappoint, start to finish. Take in an incredibly scenic drive along the base of the La Sal mountains through Spanish Valley toward Monticello and Blanding. Stop for a side-trip down Needles Overlook Road to get an up-close look at one of the most beautiful and remote corners of Canyonlands National Park, the Needles District. You can take a short hike from Needles Overlook Point, keeping your camera close at hand.
As you make your way toward the town of Blanding, you’ll gain elevation and encounter even cooler temps than you did in Moab. Bundle up and make sure your vehicle is up to the road conditions. You’ll want to make a stop at Newspaper Rock which features one of the heaviest concentrations of Native American petroglyphs in the region. This rock panel offers an unforgettable peek into history, as it was used for thousands of years as a recording spot for the area’s earliest inhabitants. The name in Navajo is Tse’ Hane, which means rock that tells a story. (Read:Rock That Tells a Story: Newspaper Rock)
Day 4: Explore the heart and soul of Bears Ears National Monument
At Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum, you can begin to wrap your head around this place’s incredible history which spans thousands of years of human habitation. Learn a bit about the Native American tribes who have called this place home and consider the Bears Ears area to be sacred to this day. You’ll see the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan pottery on display in the region and venture into an authentic 1,000-year-old kiva dwelling to get a sense of how the land’s original inhabitants lived.
Next, take a beautiful drive into the heart of Bears Ears stopping at the incredible dwelling sites at Butler Wash and Cave Towers, each a short hike. Then, make your way to Natural Bridges National Monument where multiple natural rock bridges defy gravity and attest to the power of flowing water to carve the desert into unbelievable shapes. There are many Ancestral Puebloan dwellings to explore here dating back as far as 2,000 years old. So, take your time to stroll through history and the clues it’s left behind. (Read: Sculpted By Water: Natural Bridges National Monument)
Day 5: Journey into another world in the Monument Valley area
The Valley of the Gods’ name is no hyperbole. You’ll feel a sense of reverence as you drive the valley’s washboard dirt road through a series of exquisite towering buttes and otherworldly rock formations. (Read: Valley of the Gods Is a Mini-Monument Valley…and Totally Free)
Then, you’ll head an hour south to the equally iconic Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, beautifully remote and packed with history in its own right. While you can take a few easy hikes on your own it’s a great idea to hire a local Navajo guide to get the best understanding and appreciation for this rugged—and legendary—landscape. (Read: Magnificent Monument Valley: Where God Put The West)
To cap off an unforgettable day, head back north and make a stop at Goosenecks State Park. 300 million years in the making, you’ll get a firsthand look at the power of water in geology—the San Juan River has cut a series of tight turns or goosenecks into the landscape. Take a stroll, take a breath, and take lots and lots of photos.
Worth Pondering…
…of what value are objects of a past people if we don’t allow ourselves to be touched by them. They are alive. They have a voice. They remind us what it means to be human; that it is our nature to survive, to be resourceful, to be attentive to the world we live in.
Utah features some of the most astonishing landscapes in the world
With soaring sandstone arches, serpentine slot canyons, slickrock domes, and hoodoos of all shapes and sizes, Utah boasts some of the most otherworldly panoramas on planet Earth.
Public lands cover two-thirds of the state offering vast opportunities to hike, bike, raft, ski, climb and camp—or simply gape at epic views. If the outdoors is your thing, Utah is your place. Here are the best places to go for a uniquely Utah experience.
On the doorstep of two national parks, a national forest with summits over 12,000 feet, and endless acres of slickrock-clad Bureau of Land Management (BLM) lands, Moab is ground zero for outdoor action in Utah. A variety of restaurants, shops, hotels, and outfitters line the streets downtown.
Just to the north, Arches National Park is graced with some of the most spectacular examples of what wind, water, freezing, and thawing can do to rock over time. If there is one must-see destination in Utah, this might be it, though in peak season the crowds can be the stuff of nightmares.
Nearby Canyonlands National Park (Utah’s largest) sees far fewer visitors while offering countless spots to view a Martian-like landscape from the rims or the bottoms of huge canyons or among formations such as The Needles, Chocolate Drops, or Land of Standing Rocks. The Green and the Colorado Rivers meet in the heart of the park.
Prepare to get wet and dirty hiking this sinuous canyon system that’s hewn into a massive field of petrified sand dunes. Spanning some 1,500 square miles including sections of Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, the Escalante is wild, rugged country. Though you’ll probably end up wading through pools and creeks, struggling among tamarisk groves, and scrambling over rocks, it’s more than worth it.
The sublime beauty of the sensuous red- and orange-hued walls streaked with desert varnish inspires a sense of gratitude for life itself. Each side canyon has its own character—some feel private and intimate while others are impressively grand. Aim for highlights such as the Golden Cathedral and Stevens Arch or pick a route where you’re less likely to run into other people. Either way, you’ll be glad to be wherever you are.
Bears Ears National Monument is home to Ancestral Puebloan Sites
Covering 1.36 million acres of land sacred to the region’s Native American tribes, Bears Ears National Monument features some of the most remarkable Ancestral Puebloan sites in Utah. Regardless of how much time (and energy) you have, there’s something here for everyone.
You can practically drive right up to the petroglyphs that crowd onto Newspaper Rock. Hiking for a few hours on Cedar Mesa will take you to ruins with names like Moon House and House on Fire—named for the effect of the morning sunlight reflecting on the rocks around the stone structure. And on a multi-day backpacking trip in Grand Gulch, you’ll find cliff dwellings, kivas, and granaries set between burly canyon walls.
Wherever you choose to go, you can’t fail to wonder about the lives of the people who lived on this land some 2000 years ago and what they were expressing through their art.
In a state with no shortage of scenic roads, this route tops the list. At one end, you’ll drive among the huge, surrealistic domes of Capitol Reef National Park where the rock is every color of the rainbow. Just to the west, Highway 12 then plunges south over a 9,400-foot pass and down into the exquisite geology of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
Some of the most eye-popping views from the road are found between the towns of Boulder and Escalante but there’s plenty to explore along the way, too. Take a quick side trip east of Boulder along the Burr Trail Scenic Byway or get out from behind the wheel and hike around the drip-castle world of Bryce Canyon National Park near the western end of the highway.
The amazing force of water has cut three spectacular natural bridges in White Canyon at Natural Bridges National Monument located 42 miles west of Blanding or 47 miles north of Mexican Hat. These stunning rock bridges have Hopi Indian names: delicate Owachomo means ‘rock mounds’, massive Kachina means ‘dancer’ while Sipapu, the second-largest natural bridge in the state means ‘place of emergence’.
A nine-mile scenic drive has overlooks of the bridges, canyons, and a touch of history with ancient Puebloan ruins. Moderate to difficult trails some with metal stairs lead down to each bridge. A longer trail follows the stream bed beneath all three bridges.
Valley of the Gods offers isolated buttes, towering pinnacles, and wide open spaces that seem to go on forever. A 17-mile dirt and gravel road winds through the valley near many of the formations. Short hikes are necessary to reach some, but most can be seen from the road. It is sandy and bumpy, with steep sections.
Days can be spent by anyone with a camera and time. As is usual in this stark landscape, morning and evening are the best times to take photos. The Valley of the Gods is full of long and mysterious shadows in the evening. The morning sun shines directly on the valley and its towers.
Meandering through Utah’s southeastern corner, the San Juan carves a gorgeous route through 300 million years of geologic time. On rafting trips, ranging from two to seven days, you’ll float between sheer canyon walls, past cliffs etched with hundreds of petroglyphs, and through miles of twisting “goosenecks.” At night, you’ll camp on sandy beaches gazing at pristine starry skies. Since most of the rapids rarely rise above class II, this trip is less about white water and more about the scenery and experiencing the rhythm of the river. It’s perfect for families with kids and hardcore outdoor enthusiasts alike.
Recommendations for extended adventuring around each of southern Utah’s Mighty 5 national parks
Southern Utah has enough panoramic mountain views, striking red-rock formations, and dark-sky zones for a lifetime of adventure. But sometimes it’s better to settle in to explore one place than try to do everything in one trip. In this post, I’ll look at a few favorite spots for going beyond the parks and staying for a week or longer.
Thanks to some highly successful promotion by the Utah Office of Tourism, people across the globe now know that “Mighty 5” refers to national parks in Utah and not a group of superheroes.
Unfortunately, that heightened awareness carries a price. Utah’s five national parks are often so busy that visitors wait hours to enter or are even turned away. If you’ve been stalled in traffic at Zion, Arches, or Bryce Canyon, you understand.
On holidays or other times when you know the parks will be jammed with tourists, a good alternative is to visit one of Utah’s spectacular national monuments or state parks. Many offer breathtaking scenery to rival that of the Mighty 5 but with much smaller crowds.
For a week of exploring around Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, head to St. George, where you can camp within a short drive of hundreds of miles of hiking and mountain-biking trails. The national parks are stunning but the many state parks in Utah are also not to be missed. One favorite is Snow Canyon; the trails there wind through striking red rock and streams of black lava are frozen in time against the canyon walls. Another one of this corner’s lesser-known gems is Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park where you can hike or go four-wheeling among pink dunes formed over the last 10,000 to 15,000 years by eroding Navajo Sandstone cliffs. You’ll also want to visit Red Cliffs BLM Recreation area to hike and marvel at the distinctive landscapes that cover this relatively unknown public area.
The reservoir at Quail Creek State Park boasts some of the warmest waters in the state plus a mild winter climate. It is a great place to boat, camp, and fish. Water sports are popular here during the long warm-weather season and boaters and fishermen enjoy the reservoir year-round. Anglers fish for largemouth bass, rainbow trout, crappie, and other species.
Red rock and red sand meet warm, blue water at Sand Hollow which is one of the most popular state parks in Utah. This is a great place to camp, picnic, boat, fish, and ride ATVs. ATV trails run over sand dune access to Sand Mountain in the park and additional trails are located nearby. Sand Hollow Reservoir’s warm water makes it ideal for skiing and other water sports. Anglers fish for bass, bluegill, crappie, and catfish.
Hidden within the mountains between Zion and Bryce Canyon is the brilliant geology and vibrant environment of Cedar Breaks National Monument. The geologic amphitheater and surrounding area are home to hiking trails, ancient trees, high elevation camping, and over-the-top views along the “Circle of Painted Cliffs.” Cedar Breaks’ majestic amphitheater is a three-mile-long cirque made up of eroding limestone, shale, and sandstone. The monument sits above 10,000 feet. The Amphitheater is like a naturally formed coliseum that plunges 2,000 feet below amid colorful towers, hoodoos, and canyons. Stunning views are common throughout so keep your camera nearby.
Beyond Capitol Reef
The Capitol Reef Region is a relatively uncrowded landscape with seemingly endless public land to explore. The town of Torrey—an official International Dark Sky Community—is just a 15-minute drive from Capitol Reef National Park and a great base camp for exploration.
Snag a campsite in Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. There are plenty of options to contemplate in this Martian-like landscape. If you’re just passing through, Goblin Valley State Park famous for wind-shaped rock formations called hoodoos is a popular stop for families.
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is also within easy driving distance of Grand Staircase and offers plenty of opportunities to cool off in Lake Powell with water sports you might not expect to find amid Utah’s high-desert landscapes.
Located between Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef national parks, Escalante Petrified Forest is among the most underrated, surprising, and all-around best state parks for escaping the crowds. If you want to be away from people, it’s pretty easy to find lots of remote space to camp while still having easy access to the main rock formations. Escalante Petrified Forest is located at Wide Hollow Reservoir, a small reservoir that is popular for boating, canoeing, fishing, and water sports. The park includes a developed campground with RV sites. There is also a pleasant picnic area. On the hill above the campground, you can see large petrified logs. A marked hiking trail leads through the petrified forest. At the Visitor Center, you can view displays of plant and marine fossils, petrified wood, and fossilized dinosaur bones over 100 million years old.
Beyond Arches and Canyonlands
One of my favorite things about southern Utah is the way the landscapes transform from lush riverscape to shaded slot canyons to desert all in a short drive. For a week in the Arches and Canyonlands region start in Green River at the foot of Desolation Canyon Wilderness. Swasey’s Beach has developed camping and a great beach.
The scenic overlooks of Dead Horse Point State Park are often compared to views of the Grand Canyon. Just over 30 miles from Moab, it’s a worthy destination when Arches is overly crowded. The park gets its name from a gruesome legend. Around the turn of the century, the point was used as a corral for wild mustangs roaming the mesa top. One time, for some unknown reason, horses were left corralled on the waterless point where they died of thirst within view of the Colorado River 2,000 feet below.
From there, head to the lesser-visited west side of Canyonlands National Park for a guided 4×4 tour. Spend ample time in the Bears Ears National Monument area with a scenic drive through Valley of the Gods and visits to Goosenecks State Park and Natural Bridges National Monument—both of which are certified by the International Dark-Sky Association.
The amazing force of water has cut three spectacular natural bridges in White Canyon at Natural Bridges National Monument located 42 miles west of Blanding or 47 miles north of Mexican Hat. These stunning rock bridges have Hopi Indian names: delicate Owachomo means ‘rock mounds’, massive Kachina means ‘dancer’ while Sipapu, the second-largest natural bridge in the state means ‘place of emergence’. A nine-mile scenic drive has overlooks of the bridges, canyons, and a touch of history with ancient Puebloan ruins. Moderate to difficult trails some with metal stairs lead down to each bridge. A longer trail follows the stream bed beneath all three bridges.
The wild canyons and mountains of southern Utah have been around for over 2.6 billion years. Help to protect them for a few billion more.
Worth Pondering…
As we crossed the Colorado-Utah border I saw God in the sky in the form of huge gold sunburning clouds above the desert that seemed to point a finger at me and say, “Pass here and go on, you’re on the road to heaven.”
And no I’m not talking about visiting your Uncle Monti & his cello
With towering mountains, vast red rock canyons, hundreds of hiking trails, world-famous snow, and endless outdoor recreation, Utah is a major playground for adventure. The only hard part is deciding where to begin.
If you’re itching to get out the door, you can’t go wrong with a trip to the “Land Above the Canyons.” We’re talking about none other than Monticello (mon-ti-sel-oh). It may be a small town (2020 population: 1,935) but it packs a big punch. You’ll finally have some solitude in your life (get away from the hustle and bustle) along with some super real adventures! From hiking, biking, ATV riding, golfing, and camping, you’ll never have a dull moment in Monticello. If you want the chance to experience everything Monticello has to offer you’ll definitely need a few more days than you had originally planned. You can feel free to go visit ol’ uncle Monti and his cello if you fancy, or you can pack your bags and head out for an amazing southeastern Utah adventure.
A high-elevation town on the edge of Utah’s Canyon Country, Monticello lies on the sheltered eastern slope of the Abajo Mountains overlooking a maze of sandstone canyons and plateaus. The Abajos, topped by 11,360-foot Abajo Peak, are Monticello’s summer paradise with mild temperatures, cooling rains, and recreation sites scattered through Manti La Sal National Forest.
Monticello is also a place where Utah’s past brushes against the present with ruins and rock art from the Ancient Ones scattered in nearby Bears Ears National Monument and Hovenweep National Monument. The town is also a starting point for the 480-mile Trail of the Ancients National Scenic Byway, a huge highway loop lined with scenic views and important archeological sites.
Here are a few things to add to your bucket list when you go.
Bears Ears National Monument: Indian Creek and Shash Jáa Units
Distance from Monticello to Indian Creek Unit: 20 miles
Distance from Monticello to Shash Jáa Unit: 61 miles
Bears Ears National Monument has a rich cultural heritage and is sacred to many Native American tribes who rely on these lands for traditional and ceremonial uses. Outstanding opportunities to hike, visit cultural sites, backpack, mountain bike, float the San Juan River, and ride OHVs exist within the monument boundaries. Other world-class activities include scenic drives, photography, rock climbing, camping, paleontological exploration, and wildlife viewing.
Bears Ears National Monument has two units: the Shash Jáa Unit to the south and the Indian Creek Unit to north.
Extra, extra, read all about it! You can see all the news you can’t actually read at one of the West’s most famous rock art sites. The rock is called Tse’ Hane in Navajo, or “rock that tells a story.” There are hundreds of petroglyphs here that feature a mixture of forms including pictures resembling humans, animals, tools, and more esoteric, abstract things. The 200-square-foot rock site is a part of the cliffs all along the upper end of Indian Creek Canyon. Indian Creek Canyon is a popular Utah destination for rock climbers who flock to the Wingate sandstone for its pristine cracks which are scaled with traditional climbing aids. However, the common nature lover will still get much out of the scenic drive; better still, the road leads to The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park. Take your family past this historic site and see if you can decipher the rock’s story for yourself!
The Needles District forms the southeastern portion of Canyonlands National Park. Its signature features are colorful sandstone spires—hundreds of them poking up from the desert floor. There are also entrenched canyons, natural arches, and sheer-walled cliffs in this vast, rugged landscape. This area is famous for its rough jeep trails, including some that rank with the most challenging in the world. You need a high clearance 4X4 vehicle optimized for off-road travel to drive some of the routes here.
Imagine living in a 5,000-square-foot home that’s carved directly into a large cliff. It’s a very unique way to go about building a house! That was the vision of a man named Albert Christensen in the 1940s. Christensen spent 12 years digging, carving, and blasting out a rock home for his family to live in. He also opened a unique diner where travelers could stop for lunch. After he died in the late 1950s, Christensen’s wife Gladys continued to live in their rock home and run the diner. She and her husband are both buried near the rocks they called home. The ‘Hole N” the Rock’ house has 14 rooms including a fireplace with a 65-foot chimney, a deep French fryer, and a bathtub built into the rock.
The amazing force of water has cut three spectacular natural bridges in White Canyon at Natural Bridges National Monument. These stunning rock bridges have Hopi Indian names: delicate Owachomo means ‘rock mounds’, massive Kachina means ‘dancer’, while Sipapu means ‘place of emergence’. A nine-mile scenic drive has overlooks of the bridges, canyons, and a touch of history with ancient Puebloan ruins. Moderate to difficult trails some with metal stairs lead down to each bridge. A longer trail follows the stream bed beneath all three bridges.
Moki Dugway is a staggering, graded dirt switchback road carved into the face of the cliff edge of Cedar Mesa. It consists of three miles of steep, unpaved, but well-graded switchbacks (11 percent grade) which wind 1,200 feet from Cedar Mesa to the Valley of the Gods below. The term “moki” is derived from the Spanish word, moqui, a general term used by explorers in this region to describe Pueblo Indians they encountered as well as the vanished Ancestral Puebloan culture. Dugway is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside.
Perhaps one of the most intriguing names of all of the destinations in San Juan County is the Valley of the Gods. While similar to the geography found at Monument Valley to the south, this Bureau of Land Management area sees much, much less traffic, thereby adding solitude to its beauty. A number of tall, red, isolated mesas, buttes, and cliffs tower above the valley floor and can be seen while driving along the 17-mile gravel road on which it sits. Carved over the course of 250 million years from the Cedar Mesa sandstone, the variety of formations shows the power of time, water, wind, and ice at play in this desert landscape.
The six abandoned Ancestral Puebloan ruins in Hovenweep National Monument are impressive not only for their excellent state of preservation but also for the diversity in the structures including square and circular towers, D-shaped dwellings and many kivas (Puebloan ceremonial structures, usually circular). The park preserves 700-year-old—and even older—archeological sites that visitors can access by paved and dirt roads. Hovenweep boasts incredible skies for night viewing and has been named a Dark Sky Park by the International Dark Sky Association.
The Trail of the Ancients, a federally designated National Scenic Byway circles through the ancient Puebloan Country of southeastern Utah providing opportunity to view scenic landscapes, archaeological, cultural, and historic sites as well as Natural Bridges and Hovenweep national monuments, Monument Valley, Edge of the Cedars State Park, and Manti La Sal National Forest. It’s a land filled with 250-million-year-old rock formations, mysterious Anasazi ruins, and remnants of long-ago Mormon pioneer families, all but undiscovered by crowds of tourists.
If you’re in the mood for some fishing, cross-country skiing, mountain climbing, or hiking, the Manti La Sal National Forest is the perfect destination for your favorite outdoor recreational activities. The forest features more than 1,600 miles of streams, 8,100 acres of lakes, and hundreds of miles of hiking, biking, horseback riding, cross-country skiing and off-road trails, so there’s plenty to explore.
Worth Pondering…
Sometimes a day trip isn’t about where you’re going. Sometimes it’s just about going. About straying off the interstates and hitting the back roads to see what you can find.
Newspaper Rock features a rock panel carved with one of the largest, best preserved, and easily accessible collections of petroglyphs in the Southwest
Extra, extra, read all about it! The reviews are in: You can
see all the news you can’t actually read at one of the West’s most famous rock
art sites. And there’s no fake news here!
Native American Indians have been engraving and drawing on Newspaper Rock for more than 2,000 years. Their markings in these ruins tell the stories, hunting patterns, crop cycles, and mythologies of their lives. But what exactly these petroglyphs are communicating, we’ll never know for there is no actual translation available at this remarkable Utah attraction. Newspaper Rock is located 15 miles west of U.S. 191 along the 41-mile Indian Creek Corridor Scenic Byway (S.R. 211) in Bears Ears National Monument, now part of the 71,896-acre Indian Creek unit designated December 4, 2017 by U.S. President Donald Trump.
Bears Ears National Monument includes red rock, juniper
forests, high plateau, and an abundance of early human and Native American
historical artifacts. The Navajo Nation, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Hopi
Nation, and other tribes are tied to this land.
A petroglyph panel of such renown, Newspaper Rock was listed on the National Register of Historic Places long before either Bears Ears National Monument or Indian Creek added prominence to the remote corner of Utah. The landmark is covered with images of animals, people, ancient symbols, and depictions of the natural world etched into the rock by peoples from the Fremont, Ute, and Ancient Puebloan (Anasazi) Native American tribes. It’s surmised that the perennial natural spring attracted ancients to this distinctive area of Utah.
As one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in the
country, Utah’s Newspaper Rock State Historic Monument is like a living museum.
However, thankfully, you don’t have to peer at the pristine rock art through
glass at this site.
The rock is called Tse’ Hane in Navajo, or “rock that tells a story.” There are over 650 rock art designs here that feature a mixture of forms, including pictures resembling humans, animals, tools, and more esoteric, abstract things. The 200-square-foot rock site is a part of the cliffs along the upper end of Indian Creek Canyon.
Indian Creek Canyon is a popular Utah destination for rock climbers who flock to the Wingate sandstone for its pristine cracks, which are scaled with traditional climbing aids. However, nature lovers will still get much out of the scenic drive; better still, the road leads to The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, which offers a number of great hiking trails ranging from family-friendly walks through historically significant places to overnight backpacking trips.
Standing at the base of the 200-square-foot rock and trying
to decipher what the ancients were trying to communicate, craning your neck to
count all of the artwork, sketching and replicating some of the petroglyphs in
your own notepad, losing count when you try to see who can count the most
antelope, driving the awe-inspiring byway and looking at all of the massive,
perfectly-red Wingate sandstone cliffs.
Just across the highway from the petroglyphs there is a picnic area and campground, which is free and is first-come, first-serve. The area is open year-round, and the best times to visit are March through late-May and September through October.
