Buffalo Roundup - RVing with Rex

Antelope Island Bison Roundup

This year’s roundup scheduled for Saturday, October 25, 2025 is just one reason to visit this state park in the Great Salt Lake

Snorting bison push their way through the sagebrush heading north on Utah’s Antelope Island State Park. But they’re not alone. Whistling and shouting horsemen follow, men and women trained and instructed in the fine art and science of wrangling 2,000-pound animals. Ready to join the roundup? Read on. Whether you’re doing the herding or watching from a safe distance you’ll want to join the adventure.

Antelope Island’s annual bison round-up in late October takes place in relative obscurity on a stunning landscape from another geologic era making this event a wonderful opportunity to view the Utah bison population close-up and in a relatively natural habitat. Watching an authentic roundup with real cowboys and cowgirls is like being on the set of an old west movie or transported to a distant era—yet it’s only 25 miles northwest of Salt Lake City. And it’s even closer from our home base of Valley View RV Resort in Layton.

The sage scented serenity of the island slowly recedes as spectators and riders arrive for the big day. Spectators rush to find a good spot to watch in anxious anticipation of the arrival of the parade of bison. The bison are followed by the riders as they negotiate their way from the southern area of the Island to the north holding pens. The somewhat slow but forced pace ensures the safety of all humans and wildlife for this spectacular event. Spectators are always delighted with the number of good locations to stop and follow the herd as it makes its way north.

Bison in Antelope Island State Park © *Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Ride with the herd

Experience the thrill of working alongside these iconic animals

The park asks people to sign up (for the roundup) if they want to be an aggressive rider or if they want to be a leisurely rider. Typically, about 100 people will want to go on the leisurely ride and be close to the bison but not engaged. They take the other 200 and break them into teams and call them a left flank, right flank, and center.

About 50 people are allowed to ride with the core group of riders. These are the guys and gals that know what they are doing, have done this year after year, know what the bison are going to do, know when it’s dangerous, when it’s safe, when they need to ride harder on one side or harder on the other.

It’s something to see cowboys (and cowgirls) chasing 700 bison around with dust flying everywhere and them snorting and hollerin’. The goal is to get all the bison into the corral safely and not have any of the riders injured in the process.

That’s the thing about bison. They’re big animals. The park staff is frequently asked if the bison are tame. They stress to visitors these are wild animals and caution people not to approach them. Signs are posted throughout the park and the best course of action is to keep a safe distance. Bison can run up to 30 miles per hour which is much faster than humans. They don’t have to run around obstacles (brush), they rumble through things.

They bring in every bison except for the mature bulls. Any bull three years old or over, they leave out. They don’t really need them. They’re not going to sell them and they don’t need to be vaccinated again. They’re basically breeder bulls and they’re hard to herd and they’re really ornery when you get them with a bunch of other bison. Once corralled the bison will have a thorough health check the following weekend, which is also a sight to behold. Two weeks later some will be auctioned off to the public. In 2024, approximately 290 bison were sold to high bidders.

Viewer information

See bison including calves and bulls driven across open terrain

Hosted each year at Antelope Island State Park, the Bison Roundup is a primary tool utilized to help ensure the continued health of one of the nation’s largest and oldest public bison herds. To help people better understand how the bison herd is managed, you can visit Antelope Island State Park the day of the event and experience it first-hand.

Registration is not required for the viewing public. Come witness a true Western experience as hundreds of horseback riders round up nearly 700 bison from around the Island and move them north into the holding corrals. Riders begin at 9:00 am from Fielding Garr Ranch and move the herd north.

Visitors can watch this event from the east side road as well as witnessing the final push into the corrals from a viewing area at White Rock Bay. At the viewing area in White Rock Bay there will be food for purchase (cash only), educational information, and activities. Bring a camp chair or blanket for seating. Typically in the past the Roundup is completed between noon and 3:00 pm but these are wild animals and we can’t predict how long the roundup will take.

What happens at the roundup?

Riders spread out to locate and group bison

There are two phases to the Bison Roundup. The first phase which will take place on Saturday, October 25 2025 is where horse riders round up and push the smaller groups of bison into one large herd. The riders then drive the bison into a holding corral where they rest for about a week. This rest period helps reduce the animals’ stress levels and allows them to relax, making them more cooperative during the second phase. Public riders are welcome to assist in this phase.

This first phase is a popular event every year and attendees include both local spectators and visitors from around the world.

The second phase begins the week following the roundup, October 28-30, 2025. During the Working of the Bison, the animals are sorted and separated one at a time to receive their vaccinations. They receive individual health screenings that include checks for pregnancies, parasites, and health issues.

The bison are also given a small RFID tag, which serves as a permanent ID and links them to their computer records that store their health information. Once the bison are checked, they are either released back onto the island or kept in the corral where they are later sold in a public auction. Free public tours and media opportunities are available all three days of this phase.

A spectator sport

Watching one of the nation’s oldest public bison herds in motion

Jolene Rose was a wildlife biologist on staff at Antelope Island. She refers to the 50 or 60 mature bulls left out of the roundup as members of the “grumpy old men’s club.” They can be seen in small groups scattered throughout the island.

Rose has a healthy respect for the bison. During her early years on the job they conducted the bison roundup using vehicles and helicopters. The last time they used vehicles and helicopters she watched a full-grown bull put its horns through the door of a full-size Ford Bronco and almost put the vehicle up on two wheels. He apparently had enough of being pushed around. This practice stressed the bison and was abandoned for the current roundup procedure on horseback.

Where do bison live

Bison thrive in grasslands, prairies, and open woodlands

Custer State Park in South Dakota and Antelope Island State Park are about the only places where people can actually experience a public bison roundup first hand. Though Yellowstone National Park is home to one of the nation’s most famous free-roaming herds of bison, they are not rounded up.

For those interested in participating but not riding, spectators are welcome and encouraged. There are two ways to participate. Individuals may view the roundup from inside or outside their vehicle along the miles of roads that parallel the driven bison. Visitors can find plenty of areas on the island where they can catch all the action from a safe distance.

Antelope Island State Park © *Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

It all leads to this

Get there early, soak in the moment, and witness the wild in action!

The state park offers a number of recreational events throughout the season and has plenty of other wildlife available for viewing. Hikers, cyclists, and photographers are likely to see the island’s namesake pronghorn antelope and mule deer but the park is also home to bighorn sheep, coyotes, bobcats, badgers, porcupines, and numerous birds of prey. But the bison roundup is the crème de la crème and a truly distinct Antelope Island experience.

You’re talking about a lake (The Great Salt Lake) just out the park’s back door that’s about the size of Rhode Island—that’s a huge draw in of itself. Then you couple the island with it and it’s almost a combination that can’t lose. It’s truly like no other place in the world.

The island is so peaceful and yet so wild. When you visit it, it changes your heart. I think that’s the draw. It changes your heart.

This relatively obscure local event can be a great opportunity for a family wanting to see a real roundup of a wild bison herd.

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Bison wandering Bridger Bay Campground in Antelope Island State Park © *Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Tips

Practical tips for getting the most out of your experience

Access: Antelope Island State Park is 25 miles northwest of Salt Lake City reachable via I-15 exit 332. Expect increased traffic and trail closures (except Buffalo Point, Ladyfinger Point, and Lakeside Loop).
Experience: Combine the roundup with hiking, photography, or visiting Fielding Garr Ranch for a full island experience. The Great Salt Lake’s stunning backdrop enhances the event’s appeal.
Safety: Bison are wild and can run 30 mph. Maintain a safe distance as they’re unpredictable especially mature bulls left out of the roundup.

Camping
Camp on the island

Reservations are recommended. Reservations can be made online or by calling 1 (800) 322-3770.

Bridger Bay Campground

64 sites
$20 per night for no hookups
$30 per night for water/electrical hookups
Fees cover one vehicle
Flush restrooms and showers
$18 fee for an additional vehicle
Maximum site capacity is eight people and two vehicles
Fires allowed in fire pits only

Get involved

Get involved to experience this iconic event

Interested in riding in the Antelope Island bison roundup? The annual bison roundup is open to the public with hundreds of riders getting the opportunity to round up wild bison on horseback. At time of writing, registration was full. Visit the registration link to be placed on a waiting list.

Event registration fee is $65.00 per person. Registration is required for riders, non-riding partners, spouses, people shuttling trailers, and anyone staying in camp but not riding, etc. The registration fee includes access to roundup, the roundup range ride, camping, souvenir bandanna, and the chili dinner on Saturday evening. This event is for those 18 years old and older (no one under 18 may register or be in camp).

Note that registration is not required for the viewing public but there is a fee to enter the state park.

Worth Pondering…

O give me a home where the buffaloes roam
Where the deer and the antelope play
Where seldom is heard a discouraging word
And the skies are not cloudy all day Home, home on the range
Where the deer and the antelope play
Where seldom is heard a discouraging word
And the skies are not cloudy all day.

—Brewester M. Higley, 1872

Custer State Park’s Bison Roundup

On a fall trip to South Dakota, feel the thunder of bison on the move at Custer State Park’s annual buffalo roundup and arts festival

It is the quiet before the thunder. Morning sun has further gilded the golden grasslands of Custer State Park spread over more than 70,000 acres in western South Dakota. Cowboys and cowgirls mill on their mounts dotting ridgelines above a sprawling valley. Riders chat; horses whinny. Most eyes fix on the sight below—hundreds of cocoa-hued bison, grunting, wandering, and waiting.

Then, a hoot. A whipcrack. More shouts. Riders begin to move in an annual choreography to gather the herd from the open range, check its health, and chart its future.

The annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup and Arts Festival attract more than 20,000 spectators who edge the vistas the last Friday of each September (September 26, 2025) to watch riders corral the beasts. But this isn’t herding cattle. (And, if we’re getting technical, they aren’t buffalo.) The bison is North America’s largest mammal. Bulls can weigh up to a ton and reach 6 feet tall. And they can move running 35 mph with the ability to turn on a dime.

Around 1,300 head of bison call the park home. But they don’t just live here. They are the lifeblood, the heartbeat of this place. Once 30 million strong and the cornerstone of life for Native Americans who used them for food, fuel, shelter and spiritual celebration bison were driven to the brink of extinction by settlers.

Custer bison descend from the private herd of a South Dakota rancher named James “Scotty” Philip whose wife was part Cheyenne. Philip and his family worked at the turn of the 20th century to rescue the dwindling species and eventually sold a few dozen animals to the state of South Dakota.

More than a century later, the herd thrives freely and at home on this range in the Black Hills, a sacred landscape to the Lakota, Cheyenne, and other peoples. However, the park holds only so much grass disrupting the bison’s instinct to roam. With bulls consuming dozens of pounds a day, it’s critical to manage the population so that all have enough to eat.

Riders work in teams to guide the animals collecting wayward groups and stragglers. The crews are alert and watchful striving for balance. Pushing, but not driving. Finding flow, not forcing it. Hundreds of hooves pound the ground in a musical rumble. The bison move as one, like flocks, like fishes. Dust rises, billows, drifts.

After several miles and several hours, the herd is contained and visitors can gather at the corrals outside the new-in-2022 Custer State Park Bison Center to watch crews work. Calves get shots, ear tags, and brands. Cows are checked for pregnancy. A few hundred head depart for auction. After a few days, the remaining animals are released.

The sun now bright overhead, the dust continues its unhurried return to the earth. But the history here still thrums, long after the thunder has quieted.

Bison in Custer State Park © *Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Buffalo Roundup Schedule (Friday, September 26, 2025)

Arrive early to secure a good viewing spot

6:15 am MT: Gates open for public access to viewing areas (North and South Viewing Areas). Arrive by 5:00-6:00 am to avoid traffic and secure a good spot.
9:30 am MT: Roundup begins. Cowboys and cowgirls drive the bison herd over a 5-mile stretch into the corrals.
~12:00 pm MT: Herd is typically corralled (time varies depending on herd movement).
1:00 pm MT: Branding, sorting, and health checks begin at the corrals. This continues until approximately 3:00 pm MT.
Post-roundup: Visitors can take shuttles to the corrals and visit the Custer State Park Bison Center for educational displays and souvenirs.

Viewing areas

Two main designated viewing areas

The Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup on Friday, September 26, 2025 offers two designated viewing areas for spectators to watch the bison herd being driven into the corrals. Below are the details for each viewing area:

1. North Viewing Area

Location: Accessible via Wildlife Loop Road from the State Game Lodge entrance (Highway 16A).
Description: Positioned north of the corrals this area provides a clear view of the bison as they are herded across the prairie. It’s a popular spot for watching the herd approach from a distance with the Black Hills as a scenic backdrop.
Access: Follow directional signs from Highway 16A. Vehicles enter and exit via the same route.
Pros: Offers a broad view of the herd’s movement and is closer to the State Game Lodge for lodging or amenities.
Cons: May be farther from the final corralling action compared to the South Viewing Area.

2. South Viewing Area

Location: Reached via Wildlife Loop Road near the Blue Bell Campground entrance (Highway 87).
Description: Located south of the corrals this area may provide a closer view of the bison as they approach and enter the corrals depending on the herd’s path. It’s ideal for those wanting to see the action up close.
Access: Follow signs from Highway 87. Vehicles enter and exit via the same route.
Pros: Potentially closer to the herd’s final approach offering a more intimate view of the roundup.
Cons: Can be dustier due to proximity to the corrals and access roads may be busier.

Key information for both viewing areas

Both areas provide a safe and memorable experience

Arrival time: Gates open at 6:15 am MT. Arrive by 5:00-6:00 am to secure a parking spot and avoid traffic (15,000-20,000 attendees expected).
Choosing a viewing area: You must select one viewing area in advance as there’s no crossing between North and South once parked. Check the park’s map or brochure for guidance.
Parking: Ample parking is available with accessible parking for those displaying an emblem. Park only in designated areas.
Safety: Stay behind fences in designated viewing areas. Bison are wild and unpredictable—maintain a 100-yard distance at all times. Pets must stay in vehicles.
What to bring: Folding chairs, binoculars, camera (200-300mm lens for photography), layered clothing, rain gear, sunscreen, snacks, and water. The terrain is grassy and uneven.
Shuttles: Post-roundup shuttles are available to the corrals and Custer State Park Bison Center for closer views of health checks and educational displays.
Crowds: Both areas can get crowded with the South Viewing Area sometimes offering a closer but dustier experience.

Tips

Enjoy the full experience

Best choice: If you prioritize a closer view of the bison entering the corrals, choose the South Viewing Area. For a broader, scenic perspective, opt for the North Viewing Area.
Preparation: Check the Custer State Park Resort’s Downloadable Guides (Buffalo Roundup Brochure) for a map of viewing areas and access roads. Contact the park office at 605-255-4515 for specific questions.
Combine with other activities: After the roundup ends (~3:00 pm) visit the Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival (10:00 am-7:00 pm at Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center) or drive the Wildlife Loop Road for more wildlife viewing.
North Viewing Area: Accessible via Wildlife Loop Road from the State Game Lodge (Highway 16A).
South Viewing Area: Reached via Wildlife Loop Road near Blue Bell Campground (Highway 87). The South area may offer closer views of the herd’s approach. Vehicles exit the same way they enter and you must choose one area in advance.

Game plan

Prioritizes an early start, comfort during the long wait, and full immersion in both the roundup and festival

Before you go, decide on the North or South viewing area—they’re both great but not close together. Arrive early to stake out a good spot. Parking lots open at 6:15 am and the roundup starts around 9:30.

What to eat

Food options are plentiful and cater to a variety of tastes

You can buy breakfast and lunch on-site: pancakes and coffee in the viewing areas and a hearty, chuckwagon-style lunch at the corrals.

Breakfast: Pancakes, sausages, and beverages are available starting at 6:15 am in both the North and South viewing areas. This gives visitors a hearty start before the roundup begins.
Lunch: A buffalo brisket lunch is served at the corrals once the buffalo are rounded up. This is a popular choice and offers a taste of local cuisine. Lunch is typically served until about 2 pm and is cash only.
Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival: Throughout the festival grounds near the State Game Lodge over 150 vendors offer a variety of specialty foods alongside fine arts and crafts. This includes Western-style foods, Native American dishes, and other local specialties providing ample options for snacking or a more substantial meal.
Bring your own food: Visitors are welcome to bring their own food and drinks especially since food at the event can sell out quickly. This variety ensures that guests can enjoy traditional Western flavors as well as have some flexibility with their own provisions during a long day of festivities.

Keep your distance

Stay within the designated viewing areas

Don’t be the one who goes viral for trying to befriend a bison. Admire these huge animals from afar.

At the Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup it is crucial for spectators to keep a safe distance from the bison for both their safety and the well-being of the animals. Visitors must stay within the designated viewing areas and follow all instructions from park staff and officials. Bison are wild animals that can be unpredictable and fast and approaching them too closely can cause dangerous situations.

Keeping a respectful distance also helps reduce stress on the herd during the roundup process. Binoculars and zoom lenses are recommended to get a close-up view without disturbing the animals. Additionally, pets should be left at home or kept securely inside vehicles to prevent any interactions with the wildlife. Observing these safety precautions ensures a safe and enjoyable experience for everyone at the roundup.

Enjoy the fest

Browse bison-themed art, hand-woven bullwhips, and turquoise jewelry

The Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival takes place in the meadow west of the State Game Lodge and features up to 150 vendors offering a wide variety of handcrafted fine arts and crafts including many locally made products. Visitors can enjoy live Western and Native American entertainment, a pancake breakfast, and local cuisine amidst a lively festival atmosphere.

The event beautifully complements the dramatic Buffalo Roundup spectacle by showcasing the rich cultural heritage and artistic talents of the region making it a full, immersive experience of both nature and craftsmanship in the heart of the Black Hills. Vendor hours are typically from mid-morning to early evening allowing ample time to explore and enjoy the diverse offerings and performances. This festival is an integral part of the Buffalo Roundup weekend offering an enriching experience beyond the buffalo herd.

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Conclusion

The Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup is a unique and awe-inspiring event that offers visitors a rare glimpse into the heritage and wildlife management of the American West. By arriving early, choosing the ideal viewing area, and preparing with the right gear and mindset, attendees can fully enjoy the thunderous spectacle of the bison herd being rounded up by skilled riders.

Coupled with the vibrant Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival, the event provides an unforgettable blend of nature, culture, and tradition set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Black Hills.

Whether you are a wildlife enthusiast, history buff, or simply seeking a memorable outdoor experience, the Buffalo Roundup is an exceptional occasion that celebrates the enduring spirit of the West.

Worth Pondering…

—Brewester M. Higley, 1872

Needles Highway in Fall: 14 Miles of America’s Most Stunning Scenery

Needles Highway in South Dakota’s Custer State Park winds through towering granite spindles and threads through three tight tunnels—a dramatic drive, especially in fall

On foot and on horseback in the early 20th century, South Dakota Gov. Peter Norbeck mapped out the entire striking, spiking passage of what is now known as the Needles Highway.

Unlike Norbeck, all you need are four wheels to explore this incredible drive which opened in 1922. Set aside at least an hour for the 14-mile route from Custer State Park‘s Legion Lake to Sylvan Lake. The road weaves through forests of ponderosa pine and spruce, past meadows of aspen and birch, around hairpins, next to rock walls, and through tight tunnels. The drive includes the 8-foot-wide Needles Eye Tunnel; creeping through it feels like threading its namesake rock formation.

Here are some ways to make the most of your Needles Highway drive.

Hiking Cathedral Spires *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Hike to Cathedral Spires

Known for its dramatic granite spires

If a coveted parking spot remains at the cramped Cathedral Spires Trailhead near the tunnel, grab it. Even the view from the lot is pretty but sure-footed visitors can get even bigger, more dramatic vistas from the trail.

The 1.7-mile out-and-back starts gently enough. Soon, though, hikers encounter steps, switchbacks, and steep scrambles. The trail ends in a flat mountain valley, spires rising like a Gothic holy place—albeit the kind with mountain goats flaunting their fleet feet. Keep a camera close at hand. Mountain goats give great face, their spindly little horns right on brand with the well-named scenery.

For those interested in a longer and more challenging hike, Cathedral Spires can be combined with hikes to Little Devils Tower and Black Elk Peak offering a full day of hiking with spectacular views over the park. The combined loop is about 8 miles round trip and is strenuous with a total ascent of approximately 2,500 feet.

Hiking Needles Spires *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Trail details

Location: Accessed via the Cathedral Spires trailhead on Needles Highway (Hwy 87), about 2.5 miles east of Sylvan Lake or 5 minutes from the Needles Eye Tunnel.
Distance: 1.7 miles round trip (some sources note 1.5–3 miles due to trail variations or spurs).
Elevation gain: ~500 feet with steep switchbacks and boulder scrambles.
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous due to rocky terrain, steep sections, and scrambling over boulders.
Time: 1–2 hours round trip, depending on pace and stops.
Trail type: Out-and-back ending at a sign marked “End of Trail” near the Picket Fence spires.
Features: Granite spires, forest paths, scenic views, wildlife (mountain goats, deer, elk), and wildflowers. The trail is a National Natural Landmark due to its unique geology including a rare stand of limber pine trees.

Sylvan Lake *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Stop at Sylvan Lake

Often called the “crown jewel” of Custer State Park

A stunning destination just 2.5 miles from the Cathedral Spires trailhead along the Needles Highway (Hwy 87), Sylvan Lake is one of Custer State Park’s crown jewels.

It was created in 1891 by damming Sunday Gulch Creek. The lake sits at an elevation of 6,145 feet and covers about 17 acres.

Visitors stop at Sylvan Lake to enjoy a variety of outdoor activities including hiking, swimming, paddle boating, fishing, and rock climbing on the surrounding granite formations. There are picnic areas and a swimming beach for relaxation. Paddle boats and other small boats are available for rent at the lake.

Sylvan Lake is also a common starting point for hikes to nearby Black Elk Peak (Harney Peak) and The Needles. Trails around the lake offer scenic views of the Black Hills and Mount Rushmore in the distance.

The area includes Sylvan Lake Lodge which offers cozy rooms, rustic cabins, a restaurant, and a general store. The nearby Sylvan Lake Campground offers campsites with amenities like flush toilets, showers, and potable water.

Key details

Location: Sylvan Lake is on Needles Highway (Hwy 87) about 5 minutes (2.5 miles) west of the Cathedral Spires trailhead near the Needles Eye Tunnel. It’s 6 miles from Custer, SD, via Hwy 16A and Hwy 87.
Access: Open year-round though Needles Highway closes in winter (typically November–April).
Parking: Ample parking at Sylvan Lake’s main lot with additional overflow parking. Arrive early in summer to avoid crowds as it’s busier than the Cathedral Spires trailhead.
Amenities: Restrooms, picnic areas, a small general store, Sylvan Lake Lodge (with dining and lodging options), and nearby campground. Water refill stations are available but bring your own water for the hike.

Driving Needles Eye Tunnel *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Be prepared for the tunnels

Make sure your vehicle fits through the tunnels

When preparing to drive through the tunnels on the Needles Highway be aware that these tunnels are quite narrow and low making the drive a unique and memorable experience. The tunnels include:

Needles Eye Tunnel: 8 feet wide by 9 feet 9 inches high (the narrowest and most famous tunnel located near a rock formation called Needle’s Eye)
Iron Creek Tunnel: 8 feet 9 inches wide by 10 feet 10 inches high
Hood Tunnel: 8 feet 9 inches wide and 9 feet 8 inches high

Due to the narrow dimensions, larger vehicles especially RVs or vans may find these tunnels challenging or impossible to navigate without caution. It’s important to check your vehicle’s width and height against these tunnel dimensions before attempting the drive. Many visitors have shared stories of getting stuck or narrowly fitting through.

When driving, check for oncoming traffic before entering the tunnels as most are one-lane only. It’s recommended to go slowly and carefully to avoid any mishaps. Rangers or guides sometimes offer to escort vehicles through the tunnels if needed.

Legion Lake *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Chill out at Legion Lake

A peaceful and scenic retreat

Adding a stop to chill out at Legion Lake is a fantastic way to complement your Sylvan Lake visit and Cathedral Spires hike. Legion Lake, located about 10 miles from Sylvan Lake and 12 miles from the Cathedral Spires trailhead, offers a serene spot to relax, dine, or enjoy light activities in the heart of the Black Hills.

At the other end of Needles Highway from Sylvan Lake, Legion Lake offers a variety of water-based activities including fishing, boating, swimming, and watercraft rentals. If you’re in the area at lunch or dinnertime, enjoy lakeside dining at Dockside Grill with favorites like chicken-fried steak, broasted chicken, and buffalo meatloaf. (You can also order from the picnic menu and take your meal down to the beach.)

Along the Needles Highway *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Activities to chill out

Relax by the lake: Settle on the grassy shore or beach area with a book or blanket. The lake’s calm waters and surrounding pines create a tranquil vibe, perfect for unwinding post-hike.
Swimming: The small beach allows swimming though the water is cold (even in August). It’s less crowded than Sylvan Lake’s swimming area.
Boating: Rent kayaks, canoes, or paddleboards at the lodge. Non-motorized boats keep the lake quiet.
Picnicking: Use picnic tables near the shore or bring a portable chair. The lodge store sells snacks or grab a meal at the restaurant.
Short walks: Stroll the Legion Lake Trail (1-mile loop, easy, ~30 minutes), a flat path around the lake with views of granite outcrops and wildlife (deer, waterfowl). It’s less strenuous than Cathedral Spires, ideal for a relaxed pace.
Dining: Legion Lake Lodge’s restaurant offers casual dining with indoor and outdoor seating. Popular items include bison burgers and homemade pies. It’s a great spot for lunch or an early dinner after your hike.

Venture farther

Venturing farther in the Black Hills

Needles Highway is part of the 68-mile-long Peter Norbeck National Scenic Byway from Custer to Keystone, South Dakota. Besides Needles, the scenic byway includes two other legendary routes: 17-mile-long Iron Mountain Road with “pigtail” (looping) bridges, hairpin turns, and one-lane tunnels that frame great views of Mount Rushmore; and the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road in Custer State Park where you’re likely to see some of the park’s free-roaming buffalo, prairie dogs, and feral burros.

Mount Rushmore as seen from Iron Mountain Road *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Iron Mountain Road (Hwy 16A, ~17 miles)

Relevance: Connects Legion Lake to Mount Rushmore, a great option for “venturing farther.”
Features: Three pigtail bridges (spiral loops), three tunnels (e.g., Doane Robinson Tunnel, 12 feet wide, 13 feet 2 inches high framing Mount Rushmore) and forested vistas.
Tips: Tunnels are wider than Needles Eye but single-lane; yield to oncoming traffic. Stop at pullouts for Rushmore views.

Driving Wildlife Loop Road *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Wildlife Loop Road (Hwy 16A, ~18 miles)

Relevance: Passes near Legion Lake, ideal for your chill-out stop.
Features: Rolling prairies with bison, pronghorn, and burros. Scenic but less dramatic than Needles Highway.
Tips: Keep 100 yards from bison. Drive slowly (25–35 mph) to spot wildlife.

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The Buffalo Roundup *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Plan your fall trip

Enjoy your fall trip to the Black Hills

When the Black Hills turn golden, magic happens.

For planning your fall trip to Custer State Park consider these key highlights and activities.

The Annual Buffalo Roundup and Arts Festival (September 25-27, 2025) showcases an exciting roundup of about 1,300 bison by cowboys and cowgirls on horseback followed by branding, sorting, and an arts festival with over 150 vendors selling fine art, crafts, and Western-style food. There is live music, cultural demonstrations, and family-friendly activities. The roundup day itself will be on September 26 with viewing areas opening early and meals available for purchase onsite. This is a unique Western tradition and a must-see fall event.

Scenic drives and hikes to witness the fall colors across the rolling plains, granite formations, and pine forests. Trails and scenic roads are open for hiking, biking, and wildlife viewing.

Other autumn events in the nearby area during fall include the Autumn Volksmarch hike, Buffalo Ridge Camp Resort’s Harvest Moon Festival, and the Run Crazy Horse Marathon.

Enjoy relaxing outdoor activities such as fishing, boating, and picnicking at lakes like Sylvan Lake and Legion Lake, both beautiful in the fall.

Educational opportunities at visitor centers and the Bison Center to learn about the wildlife and conservation efforts in the park.

Camping at Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Fall is an excellent time to visit Custer State Park due to cooler temperatures fewer crowds than summer, and the stunning natural fall foliage.

Make sure to dress in layers and prepare for variable fall weather. Booking accommodations and any guided activities early is recommended due to the popularity of fall events.

This combination of outdoor adventure, cultural festivities, and natural beauty makes Custer State Park an exceptional fall destination in 2025

See Custer State Park’s annual buffalo roundup; take a soak at Moccasin Springs Natural Mineral Spa in Hot Springs; try fly-fishing with Rapid City-based Dakota Angler and Outfitter; soar high with Black Hills Balloons. And don’t worry about cramming everything at 71,000-acre Custer State Park into one day. A $25 park pass grants entry for seven consecutive days. Annual passes are available too. The park’s lodging offers a choice of four resort areas with plenty of activities.

Worth Pondering…

My first years were spent living just as my forefathers had lived—roaming the green, rolling hills of what are now the states of South Dakota and Nebraska.

—Standing Bear

The Complete Guide to Custer State Park

Traveling to the Black Hills in South Dakota and wondering what there is to see and do in Custer State Park? In this post, I cover all the main landmarks, hiking trails, and animal sightings that you can experience in Custer—the best things to do in Custer State Park.

Located in the rugged beauty of the Black Hills in South Dakota, Custer State Park emerges as a sanctuary of natural splendor and wildlife diversity. Encompassing over 71,000 acres, this iconic park is a testament to the breathtaking landscapes that define the region’s towering granite peaks, expansive rolling grasslands, and crystal-clear mountain waters.

Established as South Dakota’s first state park in 1912 and named in honor of Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer, the park weaves together a rich tapestry of history and untamed wilderness.

Home to a thriving population of wildlife including the iconic bison, prairie dogs, bighorn sheep, and more, Custer State Park beckons adventurers with its myriad trails, scenic drives, and the allure of its five pristine lakes. From the annual bison roundup to the historic Peter Norbeck Center, Custer State Park invites visitors to explore its diverse offerings, promising an immersive journey into the heart of one of South Dakota’s most cherished natural treasures.

Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Features of Custer State Park

Iconic bison herd: Custer State Park is renowned for its resident herd of over 1,500 bison making it one of the largest publicly-owned herds in the world. The annual bison roundup (September 27, 2024) is a notable event attracting thousands of spectators and showcasing the park’s commitment to wildlife conservation.

Scenic drives: The park boasts two famous scenic drives—Needles Highway and Wildlife Loop Road. These routes offer breathtaking views of granite peaks, pristine lakes, and opportunities to witness wildlife including bison.

Diverse wildlife: Beyond bison, the park is home to a variety of wildlife species including prairie dogs, bighorn sheep, elk, deer, mountain goats, coyotes, river otters, pronghorn, cougars, and feral burros. This diversity attracts nature enthusiasts and provides unique opportunities for wildlife observation.

Outdoor recreation: Custer State Park offers a range of outdoor activities from hiking trails to water-based activities in its five picturesque lakes. Visitors can enjoy boating, swimming, and fishing while surrounded by the park’s natural beauty.

Historic contributions: The Park’s history is shaped by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) which played a vital role in the 1930s by building roads, campgrounds, and dams. The Peter Norbeck Center, a National Register of Historic Place, showcases the park’s natural history and cultural heritage through exhibits.

Expansive terrain: Covering over 71,000 acres, Custer State Park features diverse landscapes including rolling prairie grasslands and rugged mountains. The varied terrain contributes to the park’s scenic beauty and provides a habitat for its diverse wildlife.

The Needles, Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Proximity to attractions: Situated in the Black Hills, the park is near other notable attractions such as Mount Rushmore, Wind Cave National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, Crazy Horse Memorial, and Badlands National Park offering visitors a chance to explore the broader region.

Visitor center: The modern visitor center opened in 2016 serves as an informative hub offering insights into the park’s wildlife, history, and layout. Visitors can engage with exhibits and a short film to enhance their understanding of Custer State Park.

Annual events: In addition to the bison roundup the park hosts various events and programs including naturalist-led activities, festivals, and educational programs. These events provide visitors with unique opportunities to connect with the park’s natural and cultural offerings.

Preservation efforts: Custer State Park has a history of expansion and preservation with an additional 22,900 acres added in 1964. The park’s ongoing efforts focus on maintaining ecological balance and preserving the natural beauty that defines this South Dakota gem.

History

Established in 1912, Custer State Park located in the Black Hills of South Dakota holds a storied history as the state’s first and largest state park. The park’s origins trace back to a collection of sixteen sections of land which were later consolidated into one expansive block due to the challenges posed by the rugged terrain.

The 1930s saw a transformative period for the park, as the CCC played a pivotal role in constructing miles of roads, campgrounds, and dams. These efforts laid the foundation for the park’s growth and facilitated water recreation activities.

In 1964, an additional 22,900 acres were added further expanding its boundaries. Notably, the park is home to a herd of over 1,500 bison and the annual bison roundup initiated in 1965 has become a celebrated event drawing thousands of spectators. Today, Custer State Park stands as a testament to conservation efforts offering visitors a unique blend of natural beauty, wildlife diversity, and a rich tapestry of historical significance.

Importance of conservation and recreation for Custer State Park

Custer State Park holds a dual significance as a vital hub for both conservation and recreation. On the conservation front, the park’s expansive 71,000 acres serve as a haven for diverse wildlife playing a crucial role in the preservation of ecosystems unique to the Black Hills region.

The resident herd of over 1,500 bison alongside prairie dogs, bighorn sheep, elk, and various other species underscores the park’s commitment to biodiversity. The annual bison roundup not only captivates visitors but also stands as a carefully orchestrated conservation effort, ensuring the ecological balance of the park.

Additionally, Custer State Park’s historical role in the 1930s with the CCC constructing essential infrastructure exemplifies a commitment to environmental stewardship.

Simultaneously, the park’s recreational offerings from scenic drives like Needles Highway to hiking trails and water-based activities provide a dynamic and immersive experience for visitors.

Beyond its natural allure, Custer State Park’s proximity to other iconic attractions such as Mount Rushmore and Wind Cave National Park positions it as a cornerstone for tourism fostering an appreciation for the region’s natural beauty.

*Needles Highway, Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Diverse vegetation and unique plant species

Ponderosa pine forests: Custer State Park is characterized by extensive stands of ponderosa pine forests contributing to the park’s scenic beauty and providing habitat for various wildlife species.

Aspen groves: Aspen groves dot the landscape especially in areas with higher elevations. These groves contribute to the park’s diverse and visually striking vegetation.

Prairie grasslands: The Park features expansive prairie grasslands showcasing a mix of native grass species that play a crucial role in maintaining the park’s ecosystem and supporting its diverse wildlife.

Wildflowers: Throughout the park, a vibrant display of wildflowers adds splashes of color to the landscape. These include species like lupine, fireweed, Indian paintbrush, and various others creating a visually appealing and ecologically significant environment.

Ferns and mosses: In shaded and moist areas, ferns and mosses thrive adding to the diversity of plant life within the park. These species are often found along streambanks and in the vicinity of the park’s lakes.

Black Hills spruce: This native evergreen species is part of the diverse forest composition contributing to the park’s unique plant community. The Black Hills spruce is well-adapted to the region’s climate and soil conditions.

Chokecherry and Saskatoon serviceberry: These shrub species are found throughout the park and are important for both wildlife and traditional uses. Chokecherries, in particular, are a vital food source for various bird species.

Alder thickets: Along waterways and in moist areas, alder thickets thrive. These dense shrub communities provide habitat for a variety of birds and small mammals.

Rocky Mountain juniper: Scattered throughout the park, the Rocky Mountain juniper is a hardy evergreen species that adds to the park’s diverse vegetation particularly in rocky or higher elevation areas.

Custer State Park’s diverse vegetation not only enhances its natural beauty but also plays a critical role in supporting the varied wildlife species that call the park home. The combination of forests, grasslands, and unique plant communities creates a rich tapestry of ecosystems within this South Dakota treasure.

Fauna

Bison: Custer State Park is renowned for its resident herd of over 1,500 bison making it one of the largest publicly-owned herds in the world. The annual bison roundup (September 27, 2024) is a spectacle that showcases the park’s commitment to wildlife management and conservation.

Prairie dogs: The Park is home to thriving prairie dog towns where these social rodents create intricate burrow systems. Their presence contributes to the park’s unique prairie ecosystem and provides a critical food source for various predators.

Bighorn sheep: Custer State Park supports a population of bighorn sheep with these iconic mammals often spotted on the rugged mountainous terrain. The park’s varied landscapes offer suitable habitats for their survival.

Elk: Elk can be found throughout the park especially in areas with a mix of forests and meadows. Their presence adds to the diversity of large herbivores in the region.

Pronghorns, Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Mule deer: The Park is home to mule deer which are often seen in grassland and forested areas. These agile herbivores contribute to the park’s overall biodiversity.

White-tailed deer: White-tailed deer are prevalent in Custer State Park utilizing the diverse habitats including woodlands and open grasslands. Their adaptability to different environments makes them a common sight for park visitors.

Mountain goats: Adapted to the rocky terrain, mountain goats find suitable habitats in the park’s higher elevations. Their presence adds to the alpine character of certain areas within the park.

Coyotes: Thriving in a variety of environments including prairies and woodlands, coyotes are common in Custer State Park. They play a role in controlling rodent populations and contribute to the park’s ecological balance.

River otters: In aquatic habitats such as lakes and streams, river otters are active residents. Their playful behavior and sleek presence add to the diversity of wildlife experiences in the park.

Pronghorns: These swift and agile antelope-like mammals can be spotted in the park’s open grasslands. Their unique adaptations make them well-suited to the prairie environments of Custer State Park.

Cougars: Though elusive and rarely seen, cougars inhabit the park’s forests and rocky landscapes. Their presence as a top predator contributes to the park’s overall ecosystem dynamics.

Feral burros: Not native to the region, feral burros are a charming addition to the park’s fauna. Known for approaching vehicles in search of food, they add a unique and sometimes amusing element to the visitor experience.

Custer State Park’s diverse fauna is a testament to the park’s commitment to wildlife conservation and habitat preservation. The mix of large herbivores, predators, and smaller mammals creates a balanced and thriving ecosystem offering visitors a chance to witness the wonders of the Black Hills’ natural biodiversity.

Activities in Custer State Park for visitors

1. Scenic drives

Visitors to Custer State Park can embark on unforgettable scenic drives such as the renowned Needles Highway and Wildlife Loop Road. Needles Highway winds through impressive granite spires providing breathtaking views and opportunities to witness the park’s diverse wildlife. Wildlife Loop Road offers a leisurely drive through key habitats allowing visitors to observe bison herds, prairie dog towns, and a variety of other animals.

2. Hiking trails

The park boasts an extensive network of hiking trails catering to various skill levels. Trails like the Little Devils Tower offer panoramic views of the surrounding landscape while Sylvan Lake Shore Trail provides a scenic lakeside stroll. Hiking enthusiasts can explore the diverse ecosystems from dense forests to open meadows offering a close encounter with the park’s natural beauty.

3. Wildlife viewing

Custer State Park is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. The park’s vast landscapes offer ample opportunities for wildlife observation with bison, prairie dogs, bighorn sheep, elk, and a myriad of bird species calling the park home. Wildlife Loop Road is especially popular for its accessibility and the likelihood of spotting iconic animals in their natural habitats.

Burros, Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

4. Fishing

The park’s five picturesque lakes including Sylvan Lake and Stockade Lake provide excellent fishing opportunities. Anglers can cast their lines for a variety of fish species creating a serene and rewarding experience surrounded by the park’s scenic beauty. Fishing is permitted and regulations ensure the sustainability of the aquatic ecosystems.

5. Boating and swimming

Visitors seeking water-based activities can enjoy boating and swimming in the park’s lakes. Sylvan Lake with its clear waters and scenic surroundings is a popular spot for both boating and swimming. The calm lakes offer a refreshing escape allowing visitors to connect with nature while engaging in recreational water activities.

6. Annual bison roundup

An iconic event in Custer State Park is the annual bison roundup (September 27, 2024), a spectacle that draws thousands of spectators. This tradition, dating back to 1965 involves herding the bison for health checks and population management. Visitors have the unique opportunity to witness this significant conservation effort and gain insights into the park’s commitment to wildlife management.

7. Visitor Center Exploration

Opened in 2016, the park’s visitor center serves as an informative hub. Visitors can delve into exhibits detailing the park’s wildlife, history, and layout. The center provides a comprehensive introduction to Custer State Park enhancing the overall visitor experience with interactive displays and a 20-minute film.

Camping in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

8. Camping

For those seeking a more immersive experience, Custer State Park offers several campgrounds nestled within its natural landscapes. Campers can enjoy the tranquility of the Black Hills with campfire evenings under starlit skies. The park provides a range of camping options from rustic sites to more developed facilities.

Custer State Park’s diverse activities cater to a broad range of interests inviting visitors to engage with its natural wonders, wildlife, and recreational offerings. Whether exploring by car, foot, or boat, the park provides an enriching experience that showcases the unique beauty of the Black Hills region.

As our journey through Custer State Park concludes, it leaves an indelible mark—a canvas of granite peaks, untamed bison, and winding scenic drives. The echoes of preservation and nature’s allure linger. Until the next adventure beckons, Custer State Park remains a cherished chapter in the tapestry of exploration.

Plan your next trip to Custer State Park and the Black Hills with these resources:

Sylvan Lake, Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Conclusion

In summary, Custer State Park is a harmonious blend of conservation, recreation, and cultural heritage. Its diverse landscapes from prairie grasslands to granite peaks provide a captivating environment. The park’s commitment to preservation evident in the annual bison roundup and historic contributions reflects its dedication to stewardship.

Worth Pondering…

My first years were spent living just as my forefathers had lived—roaming the green, rolling hills of what are now the states of South Dakota and Nebraska.

—Standing Bear

Custer State Park: A Majestic Corner of South Dakota’s Black Hills

Custer State Park is one of the most beloved and diverse parks in the U. S. featuring breathtaking natural scenery, diverse wildlife, and a wide range of outdoor activities

An ever growing one of a kind event is putting South Dakota’s Custer State Park ever more on the map. Those who experience the thrill of the park’s annual late-September Buffalo Roundup quickly discover that nearby Mount Rushmore is not the only dramatic site in this southeast corner of the Black Hills region. Some two million guests a year who now make the trek here are on to something, after all.

Composed of one of the oldest and most diverse geologic foundations in America that makes for hairpin curves and tunnels that you can follow for fourteen miles along Needles Highway, Custer State Park is as much a natural treasure as any lands that make up America’s national parks. And you will no doubt eventually wonder why this spectacular landscape hasn’t been declared one.

Don’t worry about it: South Dakotans are perfectly content to manage it themselves and a great job they do indeed with fine roads and an excellent tourism infrastructure. No matter the park’s official status a few days or a week in and around these 71,000 acres promise to reveal one adventure after another.

Within the southern part of the Black Hills National Forest the mile-high town of Custer serves as a gateway to the state park that lies just a few miles to the east. As your base, book yourself straight into the cute family-run Bavarian Inn in the hills just outside of town. Another of all things named for the notorious commander around here, The Custer Wolf is a locally popular casual pub restaurant.

Strolling Mt. Rushmore Road—effectively Custer’s main street whose broad width was designed to allow oxen freight carts to turn around—you’ll delight in many of the town’s fun and quirky brightly painted buffalo statues.

Also there, Keely and Damien Mahony operate the Black Hills Balloons adventure outfit. The American wife and Irish husband’s crew will take you on a short early morning drive to a forest clearing while you watch the balloons get filled in anticipation of the launch of your hour-long flight. Below you, Black Hills ridges and valleys are filled with ponderosa pine, while fog swirls around rock spires and rises from the surface of forest ponds below.

After your flight, you’ll be ready for a hearty breakfast at Baker’s Bakery & Café hash house whose tagline You’ll Love Our Buns is placed under a cheeky logo of a waitress with baked buns peeking out from her skirt.

For lunch or dinner the Pounding Fathers Restaurant/Mt. Rushmore Brewing Company is the place to sample some of dozens of Dakota state beers on draft. So massive is the complex that you could get lost there after knocking back a few (opened seasonally from May through October).

Just north of the Custer State Park boundaries book ahead for the super popular 1880 Train that runs between the towns of Hill City and Keystone. You’d think you’re in an Old West movie when at one point the vintage train will create a steamy scene by blasting sand through the flues to clear soot and whenever the tracks curve over the hour journey and you spot the engine chugging along. Conductors with old-timey facial hair help set the mood.

Anyone whose route ends in Keystone certainly needs no introduction to Mount Rushmore National Memorial which lies minutes away.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Seemingly content as they are with the superb vantage point from the Grand View Terrace and to take in the extensive displays in its visitor’s center the vast majority of park goers don’t follow the half-mile-long looping Presidential Trail whose wooden stairs drop and rise again and get you right below the talus slope. You’ll have a close up of the presidents all to yourself at various viewing platforms to suss out just where Cary Grant and Eva Marie Saint dangled from and scampered down those granite faces.

Headed west back to the town of Hill City, stop and sample what at Prairie Berry Winery will surely be your most unusual wine tasting ever—that is, unless you have already tasted rhubarb wine or their raspberry-inflected Red Ass Rhubarb blend. They have a brew pub as well for that mango IPA you never knew you wanted.

Taking up a huge house that you wish you could live in, Hill City’s Alpine Inn restaurant was built in 1884 as a hotel serving the mining and railroad companies. The lunch menu is ample but for dinner it’s just two sizes of filet mignon or spaetzle primavera followed by a massive homemade dessert selection. It’s cash-only and it’s wildly popular.

Keystone *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

A massive site off the highway between Hill City and Custer, The Crazy Horse Memorial mountain carving is a truly odd slice of Americana. Still far from completion since sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski began blasting rock away in 1948 the work depicts the warrior whose Oglala Lakota people knew as Tasunke Witko, famous for his role in the defeat of Custer at Little Bighorn. Funded by donations and entry fees and finally advancing quickly with newer rock carving technologies, the memorial now includes the chief’s hand pointing in the distance to go along with his long-ago finished head.

The memorial museum is filled with artifacts and art from many Indian nations across the continent. One wall display you might not have expected is made up of small early 20th-century advertising illustrations of romanticized Indian and Western figures and scenes that were made for a gum company by Winfried Reiss, a German born artist recently rediscovered for his murals in the Empire State Building and Harlem Renaissance portraits.

Buffalo Roundup *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Back in Custer, you might think you’ve stumbled upon a slice of Brooklyn in the Black Hills. Were Skogen Kitchen actually in Brooklyn, the restaurant with the Norwegian name would be a hit there too for its urban vibe and dishes like hiramasa sashimi and duck leg.

Rapid City is now well-known for its nearly-life-sized bronze statues of presidents around town. Back in the 1930s, the WPA erected a truly delightful curiosity on a hill outside of town, where the life-size concrete creatures in Dinosaur Park have fared remarkably well in the near century of their existence. You can expect the unexpected in this southwest corner of South Dakota.

Custer Park offers a unique and unforgettable experience. I hope this guide helps you plan your adventure and that you’ll soon discover the magic of this park.

Pronghorns in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Here are a few more articles to help you do just that:

Worth Pondering…

Oh, give me a home where the Buffalo roam
Where the Deer and the Antelope play;
Where never is heard a discouraging word,
And the sky is not clouded all day.

—Dr. Brewster Higley (1876)

Highlights of a Fall Adventure to Custer State Park: Needles Highway and Bison Roundup

When the Black Hills turn golden, magic happens

Few truly wild places remain in the U.S. Custer State Park is one of them. Nearly 1,300 bison wander the park’s 71,000 acres which they share with pronghorn antelope, elk, mountain goats, and a band of burros. Trail rides, scenic drives, bike rides, and safari tours are perfect ways to explore this impressive South Dakota attraction.

Below are two highlights of a fall visit to Custer State Park: Needles Highway and the legendary Bison Roundup.

Needles Highway

The Needles Highway is a spectacular drive through pine and spruce forests, meadows surrounded by birch and aspen, and rugged granite mountains.

As names go, Needles Highway does the job well. Along this winding 14-mile stretch of South Dakota Highway 87 in South Dakota’s Custer State Park, eroded granite spindles and pillars tower all around, hundreds of rocky splinters stitching the sky.

The Needles Highway is more than a 14-mile road—it’s a spectacular drive through pine and spruce forests, meadows surrounded by birch and aspen, and rugged granite mountains. The road’s name comes from the needlelike granite formations that seem to pierce the horizon along the highway.

Needles Eye *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

On foot and horseback in the early 20th century, South Dakota Gov. Peter Norbeck mapped out the entire striking, spiking passage of what is now known as the Needles Highway. All you need are four wheels. Set aside an hour for a scenic drive through forests of ponderosa pine and spruce, past meadows of aspen and birch, around hairpins, next to rock walls, through tight tunnels.

Visitors traveling the highway pass Sylvan Lake and a unique rock formation called the Needle’s Eye, so named for the opening created by wind, rain, freezing, and thawing. The route includes the not-quite-9-foot-wide (8 feet 9 inches wide by 9 feet 8 inches high) Needles Eye Tunnel; creeping through it feels like threading its namesake.

Cathedral Spires Trail *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Take it easy

Winding drives throughout the park are most enjoyable at a slower pace. Allow ample time to travel at a safe speed—generally 25 miles per hour or slower. Expect a travel time of about 45 to 60 minutes to enjoy Needles Highway.

This trail features areas unique to the Black Hills area such as the Cathedral Spires/Limber Pine Area, a Registered National Natural Landmark. This is a one-way trail and does not connect to the Black Elk Peak Trail System.

The 2.3-mile out-and-back starts gently enough. Soon, though, hikers encounter steps, switchbacks, and steep scrambles. The trail ends in a flat mountain valley, spires rising like a Gothic holy place—albeit the kind with mountain goats flaunting their fleet feet. Keep a camera close at hand. Goats give great faces, their spindly little horns right on brand with the well-named scenery.

The Sunday Gulch Trail offers perhaps the most unique scenery of all the park’s hiking trails. Descending into Sunday Gulch the trail crosses the stream several times while passing over large boulders and near magnificent granite walls. Sunday Gulch presents a variety of unique plants rarely seen in other areas of the park. Spruce, pine, and a mixture of hardwoods line the trail.

The Sylvan Lake Shore Trail offers passing motorists an opportunity to stretch their legs on a leisurely walk the whole family will enjoy. This trail makes a complete loop around Sylvan Lake and is among the easiest trails in Custer State Park. Enormous granite formations line portions of the lake making it one of the most picturesque in the Black Hills. While most of this trail is relatively flat, a portion contains steps and crosses exposed rocky areas. Sections of the trail are not suitable for strollers.

The Needles *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Take it slow

Don’t worry about cramming everything at Custer State Park into one day. A $20 park pass allows entry for seven consecutive days. Annual passes are available too. The park’s lodging offers a choice of four resort areas with plenty of activities and camping sites.

Take it steady

Mountain goats have four appendages helping them stay upright in this craggy landscape. No shame in doing the same with a good pair of hiking poles.

Bison Roundup

On a fall trip to South Dakota, feel the thunder of bison on the move at Custer State Park’s annual buffalo roundup and arts festival.

It is the quiet before the thunder. The morning sun has further gilded the golden grasslands of Custer State Park, spread over more than 70,000 acres in western South Dakota. Cowboys and cowgirls mill on their mounts, dotting ridgelines above a sprawling valley. Riders chat; horses whiny. Most eyes fix on the sight below—hundreds of cocoa-hued bison, grunting, wandering, and waiting.

Then, a hoot. A whipcrack. More shouts. Riders begin to move in an annual choreography to gather the herd from the open range, check its health, and chart its future.

The annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup and Arts Festival attracts more than 20,000 spectators who edge the vistas the last Friday of each September (September 28-30, 2023) to watch riders corral the beasts. But this isn’t herding cattle. (And, if we’re getting technical, they aren’t buffalo.) The bison is North America’s largest mammal. Bulls can weigh up to a ton and reach 6 feet tall. And they can move, running 35 mph with the ability to turn on a dime.

Around 1,300 head of bison call the park home. But they don’t just live here. They are the lifeblood, the heartbeat of this place. Once 30 million strong and the cornerstone of life for Native Americans who used them for food, fuel, shelter, and spiritual celebration, bison were driven to the brink of extinction by settlers.

Custer bison descend from the private herd of a South Dakota rancher named James Scotty Philip whose wife was part Cheyenne. Philip and his family worked at the turn of the 20th century to rescue the dwindling species and eventually sold a few dozen animals to the state of South Dakota.

More than a century later, the herd thrives, freely and at home on this range in the Black Hills, a sacred landscape to the Lakota, Cheyenne, and other peoples. However, the park holds only so much grass, disrupting the bison’s instinct to roam. With bulls consuming dozens of pounds a day, it’s critical to manage the population so that all have enough to eat.

Riders work in teams to guide the animals, collecting wayward groups and stragglers. The crews are alert and watchful, striving for balance. Pushing but not driving. Finding flow, not forcing it. Hundreds of hooves pound the ground in a musical rumble. The bison move as one, like flocks, like fishes. Dust rises, billows, drifts.

After several miles and several hours, the herd is contained and visitors can gather at the corrals outside the new-in-2022 Custer State Park Bison Center to watch crews work. Calves get shots, ear tags, and brands. Cows are checked for pregnancy. A few hundred heads depart for auction. After a few days, the remaining animals are released.

The sun is now bright overhead, the dust continues its unhurried return to the earth. But the history here still thrums, long after the thunder has quieted.

Game plan

Before you go, decide on the North or South viewing area—they’re both great but not close together. Arrive early to stake out a good spot. Parking lots open at 6:15 a.m. and the roundup starts around 9:30.

What to eat

You can buy breakfast and lunch on-site: pancakes and coffee in the viewing areas and a hearty chuckwagon-style lunch at the corrals.

Keep your distance

Don’t be the one who goes viral for trying to befriend a bison. Admire these huge animals from afar.

Enjoy the fest

An arts fest lasts all weekend. Sip a beer and browse bison-themed art, hand-woven bullwhips, and turquoise jewelry.

Pronghorns along the Wildlife Loop *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Plan your fall trip

There is much more to see and do in the Black Hills of South Dakota. Let’s explore further:

Worth Pondering…

My first years were spent living just as my forefathers had lived—roaming the green, rolling hills of what are now the states of South Dakota and Nebraska.

—Standing Bear

10 Amazing Places to RV in September 2023

If you’re dreaming of where to travel to experience it all, here are my picks for the best places to RV in September

There’s no such thing in anyone’s life as an unimportant day.

—Alexander Woollcott

American drama critic Alexander Woollcott is known for instituting the Algonquin Round Table, a literary luncheon (held at the Algonquin Hotel in Manhattan in the 1920s) that hosted such luminaries as comedian Harpo Marx and writer Dorothy Parker. However, Woollcott’s life leading up to that point was remarkable: He went from a childhood in poverty to serving in the First World War to becoming a columnist for The New Yorker magazine. His surviving letters recount anecdotes from his life and the lives of his creative friends. His words here encourage us to see the value in the mundane and to treat each day as part of the rich experience of life.

September always feels like a reset. Summer isn’t technically over until later in the month but unofficially… we feel the shift. The temperatures are cooling and the days are growing shorter.

That doesn’t mean that the excitement of summer travel has to abruptly end. In fact, September is actually the best time to visit many popular destinations especially national parks. The shoulder season brings fewer crowds and lower temps with the more accessibility and, in some cases, a display of early fall colors.

Planning an RV trip for a different time of year? Check out my monthly travel recommendations for the best places to travel in July and August. Also, check out my recommendations from September 2022 and October 2022.

Leaf pepping at the Trapp Family Lodge *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

1. Leaf-peeping Vermont

Stowe is a classic New England town at the base of Vermont’s highest peak, Mount Mansfield. It is located on the 138-mile Vermont Route 100, one of the country’s coasting routes for what is referred to locally as leaf-peeping. The season runs from September through late October.

In addition to watching the leaves change, fall means hiking numerous trails, fishing off Lake Champlain, and paddling down the Lamoille River.

Horrid Observation Site offers gorgeous views (despite its name) of the Champlain Valley. Reaching the outlook requires a half-mile uphill hike but the payoff is a vast panorama of the Green Mountain National Forest and Champlain Valley. You can also go hiking with dogs on the trail.

Percy Farm Corn Maze is the perfect fall activity to do in Vermont. It is surrounded by gorgeous countryside creating beautiful views and picture opportunities. The maze is well-designed and the farm area also offers candies and syrups for sale.

Applegate Valley *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

2. Applegate Valley wine country

The Applegate Valley wine country is found in the far southern reaches of Oregon running for 50 miles between the towns of Grants Pass and Jacksonville. It is home to some 18 wineries most of which offer wine tastings beside scenic vineyards growing in the foothills of the Siskiyou Mountains. Wine drinkers will find a lot to enjoy from rich malbacs to smooth chardonnays while everyone should be able to appreciate the stunning views that surround quiet back roads that run through the region.

Jekyll Island *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

3. Experience sea turtle season

With its unspoiled beaches, lush maritime forests, and peaceful marshes, Jekyll Island, a barrier island off the coast of Georgia, is a dream getaway for nature lovers and wildlife watchers—especially during sea turtle season.

The best time to see adult sea turtles is during nesting season which begins in May with nests often laid through mid-summer. Jekyll Island is one of the few places where you can experience up-close encounters with sea turtles. These gentle giants can weigh hundreds of pounds and adult females leave their saltwater and estuarine habitats to bring themselves onto the sandy beaches to lay eggs.

Sea turtle *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Sea turtle hatching season typically happens from August through October and is the best time to potentially witness turtle hatchlings emerge from their nest and scamper their way across the beach and into the ocean.

At the Georgia Sea Turtle Center, take a behind-the-scenes tour into the turtle hospital to learn about sea turtle care and treatment. To spot some sea turtle nests for yourself, head out on the center’s Night and Dawn Patrol programs with a field biologist. You can also take a guided Turtle Walk to learn more.

>> Get more tips for visiting Jekyll Island

Monument Valley *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

4. Towering Monument Valley buttes display sunset spectacle

A sunset spectacle featuring two mitten-shaped rock formations plays out at Monument Valley on the Navajo Nation along the Arizona and Utah border. Twice a year, in late March and mid-September, spectators, photographers, and videographers get a visual treat. As the sun sinks, the West Mitten Butte’s shadow crawls across the desert valley floor before climbing up the side of the East Mitten Butte.

The spectacle draws people from around the world to Monument Valley Tribal Park which already is popular with tourists.

TV and movie critic Keith Phipps once described Monument Valley as having “defined what decades of moviegoers think of when they imagine the American West.” It is a frequent filming location including a number of Westerns by the late American film director John Ford as well as the 1994 Oscar-winning film Forest Gump. In the movie, the character played by Tom Hanks is seen running on the road to Monument Valley, the park’s impressive landscape in the background.

>> Get more tips for visiting Monument Valley

Cades Cove *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

5. Cades Cove Loop

The Cades Cove Loop, a part of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is a must-see for history enthusiasts and nature lovers. Visitors pass through an idyllic valley encircled by bears, deer, and wild turkeys, driving around the loop. People can spend time discovering the churches, log houses, and a functional gristmill, among the old structures that have been beautifully conserved.

Visitors can also use the loop’s picnic areas, hiking trails, and bicycle paths while taking in the breathtaking mountain views from the numerous overlooks. The Cades Cove Loop is a fascinating drive presenting an exceptional combination of scenic natural beauty and rich cultural legacy.

>> Get more tips for visiting Cades Cove

Bernheim Arboretum and Forest *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

6. Kentucky Arboretums

Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest in Clermont (just outside Louisville) is a sprawling natural space with expansive hiking and biking trails. Fishing, bird-watching, and geocaching are also popular within the park.

The Arboretum in Lexington spans 100 gorgeous acres and is operated by the University of Kentucky, with guided tours offered May-September and self-guided tours available year-round.

The Boone County Arboretum was the nation’s first arboretum within an active recreation park setting—the specialized arrangements of plant collections exist along 2.5 miles of paved multi-use trails that wind through nearly 30 collection areas over their 121 acres.

>> Get more tips for visiting Bernheim Arborteum

Gatlinburg *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

7. Gatlinburg, Tennessee

Gatlinburg’s 407-foot Space Needle is its most iconic landmark. You ride a glass elevator to the top for sweeping 360-degree views of the surrounding area. However, that is not all there is to enjoy here. Every fall, Gatlinburg hosts the Smoky Mountain Harvest Festival beginning mid-September through November.

The notion that peak color season in the Great Smoky Mountains is in mid-October is a misconception. The colors of fall light up the Smokies for seven weeks or more moving from the peak elevations down to the foothills. The seven-week period generally runs from mid-September through the end of October.

Ober Gatlinburg’s 13th Annual OktOBERfest will be held from September 29–October 30, 2023. During this month-long celebration along with daily shows, the Seasons of Ober Restaurant switches to their OktOBERfest menu. Most of the food is German-inspired and is derived from recipes and cuisine from traditional Bavarian festivals. Offerings include schnitzel, bratwurst, strudel, turkey legs, salted pretzels, and sauerkraut.

Woodstock *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

8. Woodstock, New York

It is often assumed the Woodstock Music Festival took place in the Catskills town of Woodstock but it took place in Bethel about 1.5 hours away. The 1969 summer festival got its name from the former, though, and Woodstock has since maintained a bohemian art scene.

In general, leaves in the Catskills and northern New York State peak between the last week of September and the first week of October making this an ideal part of the country to enjoy in the fall, especially from behind the wheel of your RV.

Do not miss Tinker Street, Woodstock’s main street, to explore all the independent boutiques, shops, and restaurants.

>> Get more tips for visiting Woodstock

Okanagan Wine Country *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

9. Drink in the wine and sunshine in the Okanagan

Imagine a valley floor filled with a 170-mile-long lake, wildlife including bighorn sheep, cougars, and rattlesnakes, and rainfall of fewer than 12 inches a year but with the greatest concentration of wineries and orchards, you can imagine. The Okanagan Valley is the heart of British Columbia’s grape-growing region and boasts more than 130 licensed wineries. An ever-changing panorama, the valley stretches over 150 miles across distinct sub-regions, each with different soil and climate conditions suited to a range of varietals.

Add to this the Okanagan’s natural beauty (it’s a hallowed summer-vacation spot for Western Canadians), its wide range of non-wine-related things for the whole family to do—from riding the century-old Kettle Valley Steam Railway and swimming in those pristine lakes to biking and hiking and its lush orchards selling juicy peaches and cherries on the roadside—and you’ve got a wine-country experience like no other.

>> Get more tips for visiting the Okanagan Valley

10. Buffalo Roundup and Arts Festival

Watch cowboys and cowgirls as they round up and drive the herd of approximately 1,300 buffalo at Custer State Park in western South Dakota. Not only is the roundup a spectacular sight to see, but it is also a critical management tool for maintaining a strong and healthy herd.

The Buffalo Roundup will begin at 9:30 a.m. MT on September 29, 2023, with the parking lots opening at 6:15 a.m. Be sure to arrive early if you want to pick your spot. Guests must stay in the viewing areas until the herd is safely in the corrals, generally around noon. Breakfast is available at 6:15 a.m. in both viewing areas. Lunch is served at the corrals once the buffalo are rounded up. There is a fee for both meals.

Testing, branding, and sorting of the buffalo begins at 1 p.m. and lasts until approximately 3 p.m. Crews will work the remainder of the herd in October.

Worth Pondering…

We know that in September, we will wander through the warm winds of summer’s wreckage. We will welcome summer’s ghost.

—Henry Rollins

The Ultimate Guide to Custer State Park

With spectacular towering rock spires, gorgeous lakes, scenic drives, and abundant wildlife, Custer State Park is a world of beautiful nature

Encompassing 71,000 acres in the Black Hills, Custer State Park is home to plentiful wildlife and adventure; camping, hiking, biking, swimming, fishing, or relaxing, there’s something here for everyone.

Over 2 million people from around the world visit Custer State Park every year and it’s easy to see why. With its combination of rolling hills, stunning granite peaks, and abundant wildlife, Custer is a uniquely beautiful location. The park itself can be seen and enjoyed in two to three days but I suggest a longer stay to enjoy the area around the park and all it has to offer. If you are planning a trip to South Dakota or want to be inspired, read on to find out all you need to know about this beautiful and unique destination.

History of Custer State Park

Custer State Park was born in 1919. Governor Peter Norbeck had long admired the beauty of the Black Hills of South Dakota and once elected governor of the state, he set out to permanently preserve the area. Once the park was created, Norbeck himself helped to plan the layout of roads and scenic vistas throughout the park. The twisty turns and narrow granite tunnels of the Needles Highway and Iron Mountain Road are designed to offer breathtaking views while blending with the scenery they traverse.

When asked about the routes he had planned throughout the park, Norbeck famously said “You’re not supposed to drive here at 60 miles per hour; to do the scenery justice you should drive at no more than 20. To do it full justice you should just get out and walk it.”

During the summer of 1927, President Calvin Coolidge spent three months visiting the Black Hills and Custer State Park in particular. He and Mrs. Coolidge stayed primarily at the State Game Lodge during this time, earning it the nickname the “Summer White House.”

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) was responsible for many of the projects we currently enjoy in the park. From 1933 to 1941 they built the dams, bridges, and buildings that makeup Stockade Lake, Center Lake, Wildlife Station Visitor Center, the Mount Coolidge Lookout Tower, and most notably the Peter Norbeck Visitor Center.

Location of Custer State Park

Located in southwestern South Dakota, Custer State Park is a 30-minute drive from Rapid City, South Dakota. The drive south from Rapid City on Highway 79 is an easy and pleasant one offering impressive views of the Black Hills. Turn right onto Highway 36 and the main entrance to the park. Once you enter the park gates, the highway name changes to Highway 16A which can be a little confusing. Turning right onto Highway 16A takes you north on Iron Mountain Road to Mount Rushmore National Monument while continuing straight on Highway 16A takes you west on the park’s main road.

Two of the Park’s lodges (State Game Lodge and Legion Lake Lodge) and three of its campgrounds (Game Lodge Campground, Grace Coolidge Campground, and Legion Lake Campground) are located along this route. Turning south just past Legion Lake, one encounters Highway 87 which takes you to the Blue Bell Lodge and campground and Custer’s famed Wildlife Loop Road.

The area immediately surrounding the park is a tourist playground with scenic drives, national monuments (Mount Rushmore), and private attractions such as the Crazy Horse Monument. The town of Custer is located just outside the west entrance to the park and is convenient for restocking on fuel and groceries or for grabbing a bite to eat.

Geography of Custer State Park

Granite spires, stunning mountain views, and rolling grasslands all combine in this very special and scenic location. Located in Black Hills National Forest, Custer State Park encompasses approximately 71,000 acres of land.

The change in topography in this area is one part of what makes Custer so unique. Toward the south of the park there are rolling grasslands that provide a home for over 1,500 bison as well as pronghorn antelope, elk, wild burros, and prairie dogs. Toward the north part of the park, the elevation increases dramatically and tall granite spires appear to shoot out of the ground dozens of feet into the air. The sheer sides and steep drops from the spires create a magnificent landscape.

Woven throughout this landscape are several streams and lakes that further add to the beauty and ambience of the area. Taken together, Custer State Park offers a unique landscape that creates a stunning palette of colors, shapes, and textures that many consider to be unparalleled in its scenic beauty.

Related Article: Custer State Park: A Black Hills Gem

Bison along Wildlife Loop Road *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Wildlife in Custer

Wildlife in Custer is abundant and includes bison, deer, pronghorn antelope, elk, bighorn sheep, wild turkeys, coyotes, burros, and prairie dogs. While wildlife can be viewed throughout the park, the Wildlife Loop Road in the southern region of the park is known to have an abundance of animals that can be seen without even leaving your car. During our visit, I observed (and photographed) bison, pronghorn antelope, prairie dogs, and Custer’s begging burros during our drive along the road.

The begging burros (as they are known) have inhabited the grasslands of Custer for nearly a century. Originally, these donkeys were used as pack animals to shuttle visitors between Sylvan Lake Lodge and Black Elk Peak (the highest peak east of the Rockies). When their services were no longer needed these animals were released into the wild to roam freely in the park.

The begging burros are extremely friendly and easily approachable. They’ve even been known to poke their heads into the windows of passing cars that stop long enough on the side of the road. Although park officials don’t recommend it, visitors enjoy feeding the burros that are eager to accept almost any handout that is offered.

Pronghorns along Wildlife Loop Road *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The big wildlife draw in Custer is their herd of over 1,500 wild bison. The herd roams freely in the grasslands in the southern part of the park and has thrived in this area. Visitors on the Wildlife Loop Road are almost guaranteed to see bison during their drive. And it’s not uncommon to be caught in a “buffalo jam.”

This unique experience occurs when the bison herd stops on the roadway or crosses the roadway in the park. Don’t be surprised to find a car or truck surrounded by bison almost like a metal island in a sea of brown hides and horns. While not tame, the bison are also not easily intimidated by people or automobiles. This is truly a unique experience that would be hard to duplicate anywhere in the world outside of Custer State Park.

Related Article: Explore the Black Hills

How to explore Custer State Park

Scenic drives

Almost every road in Custer can be considered a scenic drive! But, there are three that stand out above the others.

Needles Highway

The Needles Highway (also known as Highway 87) is a beautiful drive that runs from Highway 16A in the park up to the northwest corner of Custer where Sylvan Lake is located. This 14-mile road is part of the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway and was once thought to be impossible to build by many engineers. However, through hard work and dedication, it was completed in 1922. This spectacular drive twists and turns its way through forests of pine and spruce, across sunny meadows, and up rugged mountains.

The highway’s name is derived from the rugged granite spires (tall granite towers) that rise majestically into the air. The road terminates at Sylvan Lake after passing through Needles Eye Tunnel, a one-lane tunnel carved into a mountain of granite that measures only 8 feet 4 inches wide by 11 feet 3 inches tall. With the many twists, turns, and narrow tunnels, this highway is definitely not RV-friendly so leave the rig at the campsite while enjoying this drive. Expect a 45-minute drive one-way from end to end.

Iron Mountain Road

Iron Mountain Road is the portion of Highway 16A that travels north after one enters the park from the east on Highway 36. This 17-mile stretch of highway is yet another example of determination and ingenuity. The road was specifically designed with 314 curves, 14 switchbacks, and three one-lane tunnels to force visitors to go slow in the hopes that they would enjoy and take in the scenery during their drive.

The southern portion of the road begins in Custer then leaves the park after a few miles and ends at Mount Rushmore National Monument. Along the way, visitors are treated to the scenic beauty of the Black Hills including many overlooks and beautiful pine forests. On your journey toward Mount Rushmore, you will cross over wooden “pigtail” bridges (bridges that loop over their road as they climb). As you near the end, be on the lookout for Doane Robinson Tunnel. This tunnel carved through the mountain is 13 feet 2 inches wide and 12 feet 2 inches tall and was designed to perfectly frame Mount Rushmore while you’re heading north. It is quite an impressive sight. This beautiful drive is not an RV-friendly stretch of highway so once again you’ll want to leave your rig parked while exploring this road. Expect a 60-minute drive one way along this route.

Wildlife Loop Road

As mentioned before, this 18-mile scenic loop travels through the south end of the park and winds through open grassy meadows and hills dotted with pine and crosses clear flowing streams. Depending on the day, you can see pronghorn antelope, deer, coyotes, prairie dogs, and the begging burros on your drive. But, perhaps the most well-known feature of the drive is Custer’s bison herd. At over 1,500 animals strong, this herd roams the grasslands in the park’s southern end and can almost always be seen from the road. We have seen and experienced cars completely surrounded by bison and it makes for an extremely unique experience. Depending on “buffalo jams,” and whether you stop to feed the burros, we recommend planning around 1 hour to 1½ hours for this drive.

Related Article: The Ultimate South Dakota Road Trip Itinerary

Hiking

The park offers many hiking opportunities that allow visitors to get off the beaten path and explore the park in an up close and personal way. In addition to the designed and marked trails, off-trail hiking also is encouraged in Custer and visitors are allowed to hike wherever they would like. Depending on the area of the park in which you hike, the trails differ greatly in their topography and geography.

Camping in Custer

Custer features 10 campgrounds, each with a unique feel, throughout the park:

Blue Bell Campground
Center Lake Campground
French Creek Horse Camp
French Creek Natural Area
Game Lodge Campground
Grace Coolidge Campground
Legion Lake Campground
Stockade North Campground
Stockade South Campground
Sylvan Lake Campground

Most campgrounds offer electric sites with water available at various locations throughout the campground. The lone dump station in the park is located at Game Lodge Campground.

Other activities

Sylvan Lake

Sylvan Lake is a beautiful body of water located in the northwest corner of Custer State Park. It can be accessed via the Needles Highway if you’re in the Park or by Highway 87 from the north. The Sylvan Lake area offers many activities to visitors; you can rent canoes or kayaks or try your hand at fishing for the trout, panfish, and bass found in its waters.

The loop trail that goes around the lake is 1.1 miles in length, mostly flat and comprised of packed gravel making it a relatively easy hike for most individuals. The views from the trail can be stunning as it traverses the shoreline and there are several large boulders along the way that kids and adults alike will enjoy scrambling to the top of in order to enjoy the breathtaking views from that vantage point. There is even a small swimming beach at the lake for those that are interested in cooling off on a hot summer day.

The nearby Sylvan Lake Lodge offers visitors a chance to grab lunch in the restaurant or stock up on drinks, snacks, and souvenirs while they are there. Due to the many activities and its scenic beauty, Sylvan Lake is quite popular and parking can be somewhat limited. So, we suggest arriving at the lake early in the day when crowds are somewhat minimized.

Custer State Park is home to a number of other activities as well. The streams in Custer are teaming with trout waiting to be caught. The trails and roads in Custer are perfect for biking and walking. Eagles and other birds fill the skies and are waiting to be seen by all those who are interested. And the lakes in the park are waiting for you to take a cool refreshing dip.

Truly Custer is a magnificent destination unlike any other we have experienced!

Annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup

Watch cowboys and cowgirls as they roundup and drive the herd of approximately 1,500 buffalo. Not only is the roundup a spectacular sight to see, it is also a critical management tool in maintaining a strong and healthy herd.

The Buffalo Roundup begins at 9:30 a.m. with the parking lots opening at 6:15 a.m. Guests must stay in the viewing areas until the herd is safely in the corrals, generally around noon. Breakfast is available at 6:15 a.m. in both viewing areas. Lunch is served at the corrals once the buffalo are rounded up. There is a fee for both meals.

Related Article: South Dakota: Fly Over State? Not a Chance!

Testing, branding, and sorting of the buffalo begins at 1 p.m. and lasts until approximately 3 p.m.

At the Annual Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival, up to 150 vendors offer their fine arts and crafts for sale including many South Dakota made products.

Start your morning with a pancake feed and enjoy on-going Western and Native American entertainment under the big top. All events and vendors will be located on the festival grounds across from the Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center.

The annual roundup, held the last Friday in September, is open to the public. In 2022, the 57^th annual Roundup is scheduled for Friday, September 30.

Details

Park Size: 71,000 acres

Camping: 10 campgrounds with 341 campsites and 50 camping cabins, horse camp

Park entrance fees: $20 per vehicle (valid for 7 days); $36 for annual pass; vehicles traveling non-stop through the park on US Highway 16A do not need an entrance license

Operating hours: Open year-round (between October 1 and April 30, showers, flush toilets, and other water systems may be closed; vault toilets usually remain open)

Nearest towns: Custer, Rapid City, Hill City, Keystone

Note: GPS can be unreliable in the area

Worth Pondering…

Oh, give me a home where the Buffalo roam
Where the Deer and the Antelope play;
Where never is heard a discouraging word,
And the sky is not clouded all day.

—Dr. Brewster Higley (1876)

10 Amazing Places to RV in September

If you’re dreaming of where to travel to experience it all, here are my picks for the best places to RV in September

Now that September is here, many RVers are looking to extend their summer fun as long as they can. Summer may officially end on September 23 but your vacation season is far from over. Whatever your September plans—quick trips, long weekends, a staycation, sitting by the pool, or one last big journey—we have gathered some great destinations and road trips to help you enjoy the season. Summer is calling . . . still!

September is the unsung hero of travel months: The busiest vacation season has come and gone and places are less crowded because kids are back in school. It’s the perfect time to pay a visit to locations that are usually swarming with tourists and enjoy some serious natural beauty, luxury RV resorts, outdoor adventures, and a few glasses of wine. So what are you waiting for? Here are the 10 best places to travel in September, from Vermont to San Antonio.

It’s almost autumn and if you didn’t join the summer rush back to traveling it’s time to think about September when things calm down a bit. Crisp temperatures, fall colors, and fresh mountain air make Stowe, Vermont and the Blue Ridge Parkway perfect destinations where you can enjoy the scenery, hiking, and apple cider.

Planning an RV trip for a different time of year? Check out my monthly travel recommendations for the best places to travel in June, July, and August. Also, check out my recommendations from September 2020.

Stowe *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Stowe, Vermont

This classic New England village is known for skiing but it’s also one of the best places in the country to see stunning fall foliage. From early September through late October, the weather and colorful backdrop are perfect for outdoor activities like hiking, mountain biking, fishing, and scenic drives.

Zig and zag your way to the summit ridge of Mount Mansfield—Vermont’s highest mountain—along the historic Toll Road where stunning views of Lake Champlain and the Adirondack Mountains await you. The road up Mount Mansfield is 4.5 miles of awe-inspiring natural beauty. You can park at 3,850 feet, relax and take it all in. RVs are not permitted on the toll road.

Or get on top of autumn splendor the easy way—in the refurbished Stowe Gondola SkyRide. From the top of Mount Mansfield, you can access hiking trails and a sweet treat at The Waffle. The Gondola SkyRide is open through October 17. And plan ahead for the Stowe Foliage Arts Festival in early October (38^th annual; October 8-10, 2021).

Blue Ridge Parkway *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Enjoy a Scenic Drive along the Blue Ridge Parkway

America’s Favorite Scenic Drive winds its way through North Carolina and Virginia. The 469-mile-long Blue Ridge Parkway connects Shenandoah National Park to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. There are numerous entry points to the parkway (which is free to access) in southern Virginia and northern North Carolina but if you want to admire some of the highest peaks east of the Mississippi River you’ll want to traverse the parkway near Asheville.

Popular stops along the parkway include Craggy Gardens (known for its 360-degree views and abundance of wildflowers), Mount Mitchell (the highest peak in the eastern United States), and Linville Falls (a three-tiered waterfall that cascades into the Linville Gorge). When you’re ready to stretch your legs, there are multiple hiking trails easily accessed off of the parkway including the family-friendly Graveyard Fields. This nearly 3-mile-long loop trail takes hikers to two waterfalls. If you’re up for the challenge there’s also the more strenuous 2.6-mile out and back Mount Pisgah Trail which features views of Cold Mountain from its 5,721-foot summit.

Sugar cane harvesting *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Hi Sugar!

Louisiana Sugar Cane Festival: The sweetest time of year! The annual Hi Sugar festival in September in New Iberia is the place to be to satisfy your inner sweet tooth and child-like sugary desires. Offering a rich history of the sugar found in the area, entertainment, and lots of sugar-filled treats, you’ll soak up a sweet time!

What could be more fitting a cause for celebration than the tall, green, sweet sugar cane? And so it is that the last full weekend of September (79^th annual; September 23-26, 2021) as the growth of the succulent sugar cane reaches its pinnacle, New Iberia hosts the twenty-four sugar producing parishes of Louisiana.

To the Jesuit Fathers goes the distinction of introducing sugar cane to Louisiana. Because of its rapid growth due to the semi-tropical climate and the ingenuity of a young Frenchman, Etienne De Bore who discovered the secret of granulated sugar, the economy of South Louisiana changed and the era of large plantations came into existence.

At the conclusion of a successful harvest, the planters rejoiced with a celebration called “apres la roulaison”, meaning to grind or to roll as in crushing the cane to extract the juices. In its infancy, the festival took place “after grinding” and although the celebration now comes at the end of September, the spirit of the occasion is the same…one of thanksgiving and joyful anticipation of fun-filled, carefree days.

Ripe chiles *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Chile Capital of the World

It’s been 100 years since horticulturist Fabián García publicly introduced his hybrid chile, “New Mexico No. 9,” the grandmother of all New Mexican chile peppers today. To pay homage, consider a visit to Hatch, a small agricultural village in southern New Mexico known as the “Chile Capital of the World.” The oh-so-flavorful Hatch pepper is named after Hatch Valley where the bulk of Hatch peppers are grown. This is thanks to its unique terroir which includes fertile volcanic soil.

As summer cools down, the Village of Hatch heats up. Labor Day weekend heralds the annual Hatch Chile Festival, a two-day celebration of their world-famous crop. Despite the town’s tiny size, Hatch swells to more than 30,000 people during the two-day celebration. The event features chile ristra contests, artisan and food booths, and a carnival. This year marks 50 years since the festival’s inception. The pandemic thwarted last year’s celebration making the 2021 gathering extra-special.

Chile ristras *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The scent of roasting chiles permeates the air in late summer and early fall along Hall Street, Hatch’s main thoroughfare where mom-and-pop shops sell chile peppers in all forms. Ristras—decorative dried chile pods that are both edible and a good luck symbol—hang on the patios and in doorways of places like Chile Fanatic and Hatch Chile Sales beckoning visitors to shop for chile powder, salsas, and ristras of their own.

Red chiles *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Chile peppers keep their star status when it comes to dining, as well. For a quarter of a century, the family-owned Pepper Pot has been serving up Mexican American dishes like green chile stew and red chile enchiladas (a favorite of late food personality, Anthony Bourdain, who said that their red enchiladas were the best ever). Then there’s Sparky’s, a roadside eatery and attraction that’s known as much for the fiberglass statues dotting its rooftop and lining the street (including Ronald McDonald, Yogi Bear, a Roswell-inspired green alien, and a towering Uncle Sam) as it is for its cuisine. Sparky’s green chile cheeseburgers are a talked-about phenomenon though this beloved counter-service spot also whips up the wood-fired barbeque, espresso drinks, and a wide array of shakes.

Hatch is just nine miles north of the entrance to Spaceport America, the first purpose-built commercial spaceport on the planet and testing grounds for Virgin Galactic’s human spaceflights. Final Frontier Tours offers private pre-scheduled tours of the facility, including the chance to experience a rapidly accelerating G-shock simulator, comparable to what astronauts feel in flight.

Port Aransas *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Port Aransas, Texas

With 18 miles of beaches, Port Aransas, located on Mustang Island on the Gulf Coast, is a haven for anglers and beachgoers. Fishermen can cast a line from the surf, a public fishing pier, or take an off-shore excursion for various fish species. If you visit in the summer, you’re bound to see a fishing tournament or you can try surfing, kayaking, or kiteboarding with a local guide. Visit Farley Boat Works to partake in building a boat or head out on a bird-watching expedition—Port Aransas has six sites along the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail with hundreds of bird species frequenting the area. The arts community here is also thriving with numerous studios, galleries, the Port Aransas Art Center, and the Port Aransas Community Theatre. Nightlife is also popular, with numerous bars and restaurants regularly hosting artists.

Feel the Thunder

Custer State Park in the beautiful Black Hills of western South Dakota is famous for its bison herds, other wildlife, scenic drives, historic sites, visitor centers, fishing lakes, resorts, campgrounds, and interpretive programs. In fact, it was named as one of the World’s Top Ten Wildlife Destinations for the array of wildlife within the park’s borders and for the unbelievable access visitors have to them. The bison wander the park’s 71,000 acres of mountains, hills, and prairie which they share with a wealth of wildlife including pronghorn antelope, elk, white-tailed and mule deer, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, coyotes, wild turkeys, a band of burros, and whole towns of adorable prairie dogs.

Visit the last Friday in September and feel the thunder and join the herd at the annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup (September 24, 2021). Watch cowboys and cowgirls as they round up and drive the herd of approximately 1,300 buffalo. Not only is the roundup a spectacular sight to see, it is also a critical management tool in maintaining a strong and healthy herd.

Marshes of Glynn *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

St. Simons, Georgia

The largest barrier island in the Golden Isles, St. Simons Island lies across the immortalized Marshes of Glynn made famous by poet Sidney Lanier. Moss-draped oaks line the winding island streets creating a picture-perfect image worthy of a Faulkner tale.

St. Simons Island is dotted with exceptional historic sites and attractions from the St. Simons Lighthouse Museum—a working lighthouse built in 1872—to the Bloody Marsh Battle Site where in July 1742, British and Scottish soldiers protecting colonial Georgia defeated a larger Spanish force in a battle that helped end Spanish incursions outside Florida.

Fort Frederica National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

On the island’s north end, Cannon’s Point Preserve contains middens dating back to 2500 BC. Fort Frederica National Monument which preserves archeological remnants of the local British colony and its defense against Spain and historic Christ Church, Frederica—one of the oldest churches in Georgia with worship held continuously since 1736—is also located on the island’s north end. History buff or not, you won’t want to miss Christ Church’s picturesque and somewhat haunting grounds.

Hummingbird at Paton Center for Hummingbirds *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Watch hummingbirds in Patagonia

The Paton Center for Hummingbirds was closed due to the pandemic but has since reopened.

This birding hotspot captures the laidback charm of Patagonia. The Patons put out backyard feeders in the 1970s and hummingbirds swarmed the property. The family soon began welcoming strangers who came to enjoy the colorful show. After Marion Paton died in 2009, neighbors kept the feeders stocked until 2014 when the Tucson Audubon Society took over.

Vermillion flycatcher at the Patton Center for Hummingbirds *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The place hasn’t changed much over the years. There are chairs beneath a shade awning and a big board to list recent sightings. Folks have come from all over the world just to sit quietly in a small Arizona yard and watch clouds of hummingbirds. Hummingbird visitors to the Paton Yard are at their highest numbers during spring (March-May) and fall (August-October) migrations. They also have many breeding hummingbird species throughout the summer. In the winter, hummingbird numbers are lower but you may still find rare species such as the Violet-crowned Hummingbird.

It’s a lovely carefree way to spend an hour and I hope to get to do it again soon.

Greenville *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Greenville’s River Walk

Greenville’s recent history is defined by a series of game-changing public access initiatives beginning with the formation of Falls Park on the Reedy, a 32-acre park in the heart of downtown. The signature waterfall is best viewed from the pedestrian-only Liberty Bridge, a single-cable suspended path that extends 345 feet as it curves around the waterfall below.

Live music, delicious cuisine, and impressive outdoor art installations are just a few of the standout attractions along Greenville’s river walk. Check out Papi’s Tacos (300 River Street) and ask for the “Travelin’ Taco”—shredded chicken, lettuce, Pico De Gallo, Crema in a bag of Fritos corn chips, and a fork. It won’t disappoint and it’s only $4.25 or three for $12.

Next, stop at the picturesque Art Crossing. The Shoppes at Art Crossing, nestled in the lower level of Riverplace, house over a dozen local artists and offer the public a great variety of art in every medium. Here you will find local award-winning artists at work in their gallery/studio as they create realist and abstract paintings, photographic art, watercolors, illustrations, pottery, batik, and mixed media treasures. Art Crossing at Riverplace is in the heart of downtown Greenville right off South Main along the Reedy River and is open from 11 am to 6 pm Tuesday through Saturday.

Public space extends north and south along the Swamp Rabbit Trail that parallels the Reedy River as it rambles for 22 miles over the converted railway. The path moves south to the freshwater marsh at Lake Conestee Nature Preserve and north to Travelers Rest, a bedroom community where eateries like Upcountry Provisions offer a delicious breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

Two miles north of downtown, the Swamp Rabbit Cafe and Grocery marks an appealing waypoint with its park-like outdoor seating, sandwiches on house-baked stecca bread, and homemade pastries. Other fan-favorite eateries include UP on the Roof (250 Riverplace) and The Lazy Goat (170 Riverplace), both of which are perfect to pop in for a delicious meal.

San Antonio River Walk *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

San Antonio, Texas

The River Walk, or Paseo del Rio, is one of the city’s best-known attractions. Visitors can stroll along the walking path or cruise in a river barge to explore the 15-mile urban waterway. Shop at La Villita, Market Square, or the Shops at Rivercenter. The Alamo is another favorite with tours and exhibits of the complex that was the site of the Texas Revolution battle in 1836. Further south, immerse yourself in history at the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the San Antonio Missions along the Mission Reach. Families enjoy the San Antonio Zoo and Six Flags Fiesta Texas.

Windseed Farns near Fredericksburg *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Add a scenic road trip to the Texas Hill Country characterized by tall, rugged hills of limestone and granite. You’ll pass through small towns, boutique farms, Texas-sizes ranches, and refreshing swimming holes. Many towns also have monthly markets where you can buy everything from earrings to stained glass: Gruene Market Days (Gruene is at the edge of New Braunfels), Trade Days near Fredericksburg, Boerne Market Days, and Wimberley Market Days. Wildseed Farms is a haven for gardening accessories, seeds, and local specialty foods. Explore Enchanted Rock State Natural Area with a hike, picnic, or climb to enjoy the view.

Worth Pondering…

We know that in September, we will wander through the warm winds of summer’s wreckage. We will welcome summer’s ghost.

—Henry Rollins

Custer State Park: A Black Hills Gem

Custer State Park offers forest, meadows, mountains, and wildlife including a herd of 1,300 bison

Bison herd in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

One of America’s largest state parks, Custer has been home to diverse cultural heritages for thousands of years and has provided an array of scenic beauty and outdoor recreation for visitors since the early 1900s. Custer State Park is full of lush forests, quiet and serene meadows, and majestic mountains. Few truly wild places remain in this country. Custer State Park is one of them.

Thirty to sixty million bison once roamed the great plains of North America. By the close of the 19th century, it’s estimated that less than 1,000 bison survived. Historically, the animal played an essential role in the lives of the Lakota (Sioux), who relied on the “Tatanka” for food, clothing, and shelter.

Today, nearly 1,300 bison wander the park’s 71,000 acres of mountains, hills, and prairie which they share with a wealth of wildlife including pronghorn antelope, elk, white-tailed and mule deer, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, coyotes, wild turkeys, a band of burros, and whole towns of adorable prairie dogs.

The bison herd roams freely throughout the park and is often found along the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road in the southern part of the park. Bison seem docile but can run very fast and turn on a dime. Weighing as much as 2,000 pounds, these animals are forces to be reckoned with. Visitors should stay inside their vehicles when viewing the bison and not get too close. Most wildlife can easily be seen from your car. Bear in mind, they are wild. Keep your distance.

Visit the last Friday in September and feel the thunder and join the herd at the annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup (September 24, in 2021). Watch cowboys and cowgirls as they round up and drive the herd of approximately 1,300 buffalo. Not only is the roundup a spectacular sight to see, but it is also a critical management tool in maintaining a strong and healthy herd.

The Buffalo Roundup begins at 9:30 a.m. with the parking lots opening at 6:15 a.m. Arrive early to pick your spot. Guests must stay in the viewing areas until the herd is safely in the corrals, generally around noon. Breakfast is available at 6:15 a.m. in both viewing areas. Lunch is served at the corrals once the buffalo are rounded up. There is a fee for both meals. Testing, branding, and sorting of the buffalo begins at 1 p.m. and lasts until approximately 3 p.m. Crews will work the remainder of the herd in October.

In addition to wildlife, the park features several historic sites, including the State Game Lodge, the Badger Hole, the Gordon Stockade, the Peter Norbeck Visitor Center, and the Mount Coolidge Fire Tower. The Black Hills Playhouse, which hosts performances each summer, is also located within the park, as are four resorts, each offering lodging, dining, and activities.

Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The park also has four mountain lakes. These lakes, along with several streams, offer many water recreation and fishing opportunities.

In March 1919, Custer State Park was named the first official state park. In 2019, South Dakota’s oldest state park celebrated 100 years of outdoor tradition. Each year, more than 1.5 million visitors enjoy the numerous and varied activities, attractions, and events found year-round within Custer State Park.

The park is a driver’s delight. There are three scenic drives—Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road, and Wildlife Loop Road—which are part of the extensive network of backcountry lanes on the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway for 70 miles, the route threads its way around pigtail bridges, through one-lane rock-walled tunnels, and ascends to the uppermost heights of the Needles.

The Needles in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The needle-like granite formations that seem to pierce the horizon in Custer State Park, known as the Needles, are truly see-it-to-believe-it phenomena. Drive Needles Highway to see for yourself just how majestic these outcroppings are in person. The Needles Highway is much more than a 14-mile road—it’s a spectacular drive through pine and spruce forests, meadows surrounded by birch and aspen, and rugged granite mountains.

The adventurous should carve out time to hike Cathedral Spires Trail. This moderate 1.5-mile trail offers spectacular views of these unique rock formations. You’ll likely pass rock climbers hauling gear in or out of the trail, as the spires are home to some of the most sought-after climbing routes in the Black Hills.

Wild burros seeking handouts in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Other top trails include Sunday Gulch Trail, Little Devils Tower Trail, Lover’s Leap Trail, and Sylvan Lake Shore Trail. You can begin your trek to Black Elk Peak at one of two trailheads within the park.

The roadway was carefully planned by former South Dakota Governor Peter Norbeck, who marked the entire course on foot and by horseback. Construction was completed in 1922.

Visitors traveling the highway pass Sylvan Lake and a unique rock formation called the Needle’s Eye, so named for the opening created by wind, rain, freezing, and thawing.

The 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road takes visitors through open grasslands and pine-speckled hills that much of the park’s wildlife call home.

Mount Rushmore from the Iron Mountain Road in Custer State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The 18-mile Iron Mountain Road winds between Mount Rushmore National Memorial and the junction of U.S. 16A and SR 36. Constructed in 1933, only a portion of this road lies within the park, but it is a must-see.

The Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway complements the park’s three scenic drives and includes some of the most dramatic natural and historic features in the Black Hills.

Following an action-packed day, sleep under the stars in Custer State Park. There are nine campgrounds tucked away in ponderosa pine forests, alongside fresh flowing streams, or near a mountain lake. The choice is yours! Campsites accommodate RVs and tents. Each campsite offers gravel or paved camping pad, a fire grate, and a picnic table. Electric hookups are available in most campgrounds. Or, you can relax in a one-room, log-style camping cabin or historic lodge located throughout the park.

The clear mountain waters are inviting and the open ranges are waiting to be discovered. Bring your family to Custer State Park and let yourself run wild.

Worth Pondering…

When your spirit cries for peace, come to a world of canyons deep in an old land; feel the exultation of high plateaus, the strength of moving wasters, the simplicity of sand and grass, and the silence of growth.

—August Fruge