Oatman Belongs to the Donkeys

Oatman is a town that lives on its own terms where burros rule the streets, history hums beneath every weathered boardwalk, and time slows just enough for visitors to step inside a story that is equal parts wild, whimsical, and enduring

In Oatman, Arizona, burros rule the streets.

They wander freely down the town’s short main drag, lying in the road as cars idle patiently behind them or weaving between wooden boardwalks and storefronts as if they own the place which, in many ways, they do. Traffic yields, conversations pause, and cameras come out whenever a small herd ambles through.

The burros set the pace here, slowing the town to their rhythm and reminding visitors that Oatman operates on rules older than tourism and louder than engines.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A ghost town that never quite died

Where the past still walks the streets

In a West crowded with ghost towns, some carefully polished for tourists and others quietly dissolving back into the desert, Oatman occupies a strange middle ground. It isn’t abandoned but it isn’t entirely alive in the modern sense either.

On busy weekends, the dusty parking lot fills quickly, cars inching into spaces along the narrow main street, tires crunching over gravel as visitors arrive with cameras already in hand. Vehicles roll straight through town, parallel parking just inches from Old West–style wooden storefronts that lean slightly with age as if still bracing against a century of desert wind.

Cell service fades in and out, an inconvenience most visitors barely notice. Signals drop, notifications stall, and for a brief moment the modern world loosens its grip. Instead, attention shifts to creaking boardwalks, hand-painted signs, and the theatrical clatter of staged gunfights echoing between buildings. It’s a place suspended in time—part living museum, part roadside curiosity—where frontier nostalgia and modern tourism collide in plain sight.

Yet amid the souvenir shops, staged shootouts, and the steady flow of visitors, one truth remains unchanged: Oatman belongs to the donkeys. The former Arizona mining town proudly claims to have more burros than people and on most days that feels entirely accurate.

The animals wander freely down the middle of the street, noses low, ears flicking, utterly unimpressed by the crowds stepping aside to let them pass. They pause traffic without apology, stretch out in the shade of storefronts, and approach anyone who looks even remotely like they might be carrying food.

The burros are not a novelty here; they are the town’s living inheritance. Descendants of pack animals once used by miners, they linger as a reminder of Oatman’s working past when gold, not tourism, drove life in these mountains. In a town that refuses to fully fade away, it’s the burros who give Oatman its pulse, grounding the spectacle in something real, unscripted, and quietly enduring.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From gold rush boomtown to sudden bust

Fortune rose fast and vanished faster

Long before they became a tourist attraction, donkeys were essential to life in the American West. Used as beasts of burden and to breed mules prized for strength and endurance, small donkeys known as burros served as pack animals that helped open remote desert regions.

Burros belong to the horse family, Equidae, and are closely related to wild asses adapted to arid landscapes. The word burro comes from Spanish derived from borrico meaning donkey and traces back to the Latin burricus or “small horse.”

In Oatman, the burros roaming the surrounding hills are living history. While some regularly wander into town, many more live in separate herds scattered across the Black Mountains. They are direct descendants of the burros brought by gold miners in the early 1900s to haul supplies and ore. When World War II shut down the mines around Oatman, the animals were released to fend for themselves—a legacy that still defines the town today.

Oatman’s story follows a familiar boom-and-bust arc that shaped much of the American West. In the early 1900s, the discovery of gold transformed a remote tent camp tucked into the rugged Black Mountains into a thriving boomtown. Prospectors poured in, staking claims, digging shafts, and erecting a patchwork of wooden buildings that would soon grow into a bustling settlement. By the 1920s, Oatman was more than just a mining outpost—it boasted hotels where weary travelers could rest, saloons where miners swapped tall tales over whiskey, and a network of productive mines that promised wealth and opportunity to anyone willing to risk the desert’s harsh isolation.

But the town’s prosperity was fragile. When World War II began, gold mining was deemed nonessential to the war effort and the mines that had fueled Oatman’s growth were abruptly shuttered. Almost overnight, the streets emptied. Businesses closed, hotel lights went dark, and the once-busy boardwalks became quiet under the desert sun. The miners who had carved out lives in the Black Mountains departed leaving behind a town that seemed frozen in time.

Yet even in its decline, Oatman left a mark that would endure. The burros that had once carried supplies and ore through the mountains were released into the surrounding desert left to roam free. Over the decades these animals became more than a vestige of mining life—they became living symbols of the town itself, a reminder that even as human fortunes rose and fell, the land retained its own rhythm and history. Today, wandering through Oatman, it’s impossible not to sense the echoes of that boom-and-bust past, visible in the weathered buildings, the bustling streets on weekends, and in the ever-present, ever-watching burros that make the town uniquely alive.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Wandering where history lives

Step slowly, listen closely, and the past speaks

Visiting Oatman today, it’s easy to feel both the weight of history and the playful pulse of life that persists. Parking the toad on the edge of the narrow main street, I stepped out into the sunbaked town with a sense of curiosity and calm, a pace slow enough to notice the details that make Oatman unique. The wooden boardwalks creaked underfoot and the old storefronts weathered by decades of desert wind and sun seemed to lean in listening as visitors strolled past.

Almost immediately, the burros reminded me who really ruled the streets. One ambled up with a careful, measured gait, ears swiveling toward a paper bag in my hand. Another peered from the shade of a saloon doorway, eyes bright and watchful, waiting for someone to offer a handful of feed. There was no rush here, no need to tick off sights from a checklist—the rhythm of Oatman demanded you slow down, pause, and simply watch.

Over the course of the day, I wandered the main street letting the occasional tourist snapshot fade into the background while I observed the quirks that define this unusual town. Shopkeepers leaned out of doorways to greet passersby, the occasional staged gunfight echoed off the buildings, and the burros moved freely indifferent to human schedules or expectations. In Oatman, history isn’t something you read about in a plaque—it’s alive, walking alongside you, braying in the streets, and reminding you that even a ghost town can be fully alive if you take the time to notice.

By late afternoon, the sun began to cast long shadows across the boardwalks and the bustle of visiting crowds softened into a quieter rhythm. I wandered slowly toward the edges of town watching the burros graze along the roadside and the mountains stretch in the distance.

In Oatman, the past and present coexist in a curious harmony: the echoes of gold miners, the deserted shafts, and the stories of boom-and-bust mingled with the laughter of visitors and the brays of animals that have made this town their own. It’s a place that rewards patience and observation, a town that refuses to be rushed, inviting every traveler to slow down and step into its living history.

Burros wandering the Black Mountains © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The burros that never left

Living history on every trail

Nearly a century later, the descendants of Oatman’s original pack animals are thriving carrying forward a legacy of resilience and adaptability. Where their ancestors once labored under the weight of heavy supplies and ore navigating narrow canyon paths and rocky desert terrain today’s burros stroll casually down the town’s main street. They pause to nibble hay cubes offered by tourists, ears flicking and tails swishing as if they’ve claimed the place as their own.

Beyond the boardwalks and old storefronts, the story continues on a much larger scale. More than 1,000 wild burros roam freely across the roughly one-million-acre Black Mountain Herd Management Area, a patchwork of public and private lands overseen by the Bureau of Land Management in northwestern Arizona. Here, away from the crowds and curiosities of Oatman, the animals navigate rugged terrain just as their ancestors did surviving harsh summers and winter chills with an instinctual ease honed over generations.

Walking among the burros in town and observing the herds in the hills beyond, it’s impossible not to feel a sense of continuity. They are living history, a tangible link between the boom-and-bust era of early 20th-century mining and the quiet, enduring rhythm of the desert today. For travelers willing to slow down, watch, and listen, these animals tell a story that no plaque or museum exhibit could ever fully capture—a story of survival, adaptation, and the unexpected ways life persists, long after human ambition has moved on.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Desert, history, and living legacy

Where landscape and story collide

The desert itself feels like a partner in Oatman’s story shaping both the town and its wandering residents. Jagged ridges of the Black Mountains rise sharply on either side, their rocky faces sun-bleached and etched with centuries of wind and rain. Trails that once carried miners and their burros now serve as quiet paths for hikers and curious travelers winding past abandoned shafts and the occasional tumbleweed drifting across the sand.

The burros move effortlessly through this terrain, at once wild and at home, a living bridge between human history and the harsh, enduring landscape. Every step along these dusty streets or winding mountain paths reminds you that Oatman is not frozen in time—it lives in the tension between past and present, human ambition and animal instinct, quiet observation and the occasional bray echoing across the canyon. In slowing down to take it all in, the desert, the town, and the burros reveal their rhythm, one that has endured long after the gold was gone.

Oatman Hotel © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A dollar and a memory

Where landscape and story collide

History-minded visitors can step directly into Oatman’s boomtown past at the Oatman Hotel originally known as the Durlin. Built in 1902 during the height of the gold rush, the hotel has long served as the beating heart of town, its weathered façade a reminder of the miners, travelers, and adventurers who once passed through these streets.

Today, it anchors Oatman with a lively bar and restaurant on the ground floor where locals and visitors gather over cold drinks and hearty meals while upstairs, a small museum preserves artifacts and stories of the town’s storied past including the famous honeymoon suite once shared by Clark Gable and Carole Lombard.

But it’s one charming tradition that truly sets the saloon apart. For decades, patrons have added one-dollar bills to the walls and ceiling—signed, dated, and left behind as quiet proof of a visit. The bills layer over one another like pages in a communal scrapbook forming a textured mosaic of handwriting, doodles, and memories. Step inside, and it’s impossible not to trace the invisible thread connecting miners, travelers, celebrities, and modern tourists. Each bill tells a story marking a fleeting moment of human presence in a town that has otherwise endured in quiet permanence.

Walking through the saloon, it’s easy to lose track of time. The scent of aged wood mingles with the faint aroma of coffee and food while the gentle murmur of conversation, clinking glasses, and occasional bray from a nearby burro outside reminds you that Oatman is both living town and historical artifact. In this way, a single dollar becomes more than currency—it’s a token of memory, a tangible link between past and present, and a symbol of the town’s enduring charm. Visitors leave with more than a photo; they leave a small piece of themselves behind, part of a centuries-long story that continues to unfold with each new arrival.

Trails, ruins, and desert echoes

Footsteps of miners and brays of burros

Beyond the wooden storefronts and bustling boardwalks, Oatman’s story continues across the rugged desert hills and abandoned mining sites that surround the town. Hiking the narrow trails through the Black Mountains, you can almost hear the echoes of pickaxes striking rock, the clatter of ore carts, and the voices of miners who once carved a life from this unforgiving terrain. Weathered foundations and scattered rusted tools mark where cabins and small processing operations once stood, silent reminders of a boomtown that rose and fell in rhythm with the fortunes of gold.

The burros follow these same paths moving with the ease and instinct of animals born to the desert. Some wander alongside hikers curious but cautious while others roam freely across the hills in herds disappearing into washes and rocky outcrops. Observing them here away from the boardwalks and tourist crowds, it’s easy to imagine how these animals supported the miners a century ago—hauling supplies, navigating treacherous terrain, and becoming an enduring part of Oatman’s landscape.

The desert itself demands attention. Sagebrush and creosote scatter across the slopes while jagged ridges rise sharply against a wide-open sky. Sunlight bounces off the rocky canyon walls, casting deep shadows that shift as the day moves on, and the wind carries the scent of dust, wildflowers, and distant pine. Moving slowly along the trails, you begin to sense Oatman not just as a town but as a living ecosystem of history, nature, and human ambition. Every turn offers a new perspective: a hidden mine shaft, a vantage point over the town, or a quiet moment beside a burro grazing in the sun.

For slow travelers, this is where Oatman truly comes alive. You can wander at your own pace following the same paths as miners and their animals, pausing to observe the rhythms of the land and the creatures that have adapted to it. It’s a reminder that history is not only preserved in buildings or plaques but in the very earth beneath your feet, in the trails carved by countless footsteps, and in the brays of the burros who never left.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Leaving Oatman, lingering in time

When a town stays with you long after you go

By the time we left Oatman, the town had left its mark on us in subtle, persistent ways. It’s a place where history isn’t confined to plaques or museum walls; it’s alive in the creaking boardwalks, the sun-bleached storefronts, and the brays of the burros that still roam freely through town. Each step along the streets or across the desert trails feels like a small act of connection—to miners and travelers of a century ago, to animals that once carried the weight of a boomtown on their backs, and to the land itself, resilient and unchanging.

Oatman refuses to be rushed. The town, the surrounding desert, and the wandering burros teach patience, observation, and attentiveness—the hallmarks of slow travel. There’s a rhythm here that can’t be captured in a photograph alone; it’s in the dust under your boots, the way sunlight shifts across a canyon wall, the gentle sway of a boardwalk in the afternoon breeze. Even as the weekend crowds fade and the streets quiet, the town continues to hum with life—part history, part living story, entirely unforgettable.

Driving away, the Black Mountains receding behind us, it’s clear that Oatman isn’t just a stop on a road trip—it’s an experience, a reminder that some towns though shaped by boom and bust continue to endure in ways far richer than gold. The burros, the desert, and the stories of miners long gone linger in the mind offering a rare kind of travel memory: one measured not in sights seen or miles driven but in moments observed, absorbed, and savored.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

How to visit Oatman’s four-legged locals

Meet the donkeys that run the town

Oatman’s burros may seem friendly, but they are wild animals with instincts honed over a century in the desert. Observing a few simple guidelines helps keep both visitors and animals safe—and preserves the quirky charm that makes the town so special.

  • Leave your dog at home. Burros instinctively see dogs as predators. Bringing a pup can stress the animals and create unnecessary conflict.
  • Feed only approved hay pellets. The town’s shops sell pellets specifically for the burros; other foods including human snacks can make them seriously ill.
  • Give them space. Approach slowly and calmly and let the burros come to you on their own terms. Sudden movements or crowding can startle them.
  • Secure your belongings. Burros are surprisingly adept at helping themselves. Keep bags zipped, snacks tucked away, and cameras ready but controlled—your lunch may not survive otherwise!

Following these small habits keeps the town running smoothly and ensures that Oatman’s most famous residents remain healthy, safe, and happy—a living link to the region’s gold-mining past.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Reflections from a town that moves at its own pace

Slow down and let the West unfold

In Oatman, the burros are the true attraction and it’s easy to see why. Gift shops lean fully into the theme with names like Saving Your Ass, Classy Ass, and Jackass Junction, many offering hay cubes for visitors eager to feed the animals. On any given day, a dozen or so burros wander freely through town, stopping traffic, drawing crowds, and occasionally sparking spirited disputes—donkeys rearing, braying, or playfully nipping while shopkeepers shout warnings and tourists scramble backward.

Yet the donkeys aren’t the only spectacle. The town itself feels alive with playful homage to its Wild West roots: twice-daily staged gunfights punctuate the streets, axe-throwing targets line the boardwalks, and a lone saloon anchors one end of town brimming with history, laughter, and the scent of old wood. Wooden boardwalks and weathered storefronts stretch along the main street offering souvenirs and donkey-themed keepsakes blending nostalgia with the unpredictable rhythm of life in Oatman.

Walking through the streets, it’s impossible not to slow down caught between the energy of the burros, the theatrics of the staged shows, and the quiet weight of history embedded in the buildings themselves. Oatman is a town that refuses to hurry where every bray, creak, and shout becomes part of the story and where the past and present coexist in a way that only a place like this can offer. For travelers willing to take their time it leaves a lasting memory not just of a town but of a living, breathing slice of the West where history, humor, and a little chaos walk hand in hoof.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in February 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.

Custer State Park: A Black Hills Gem

Custer State Park offers forest, meadows, mountains, and wildlife including a herd of 1,300 bison

Custer State Park in the beautiful Black Hills of western South Dakota is famous for its bison herds, other wildlife, scenic drives, historic sites, visitor centers, fishing lakes, resorts, campgrounds, and interpretive programs. In fact, it was named as one of the World’s Top Ten Wildlife Destinations for the array of wildlife within the park’s borders and for the unbelievable access visitors have to them.

Bison herd in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

One of America’s largest state parks, Custer has been home to diverse cultural heritages for thousands of years and has provided an array of scenic beauty and outdoor recreation for visitors since the early 1900s. Custer State Park is full of lush forests, quiet and serene meadows, and majestic mountains. Few truly wild places remain in this country. Custer State Park is one of them.

Thirty to sixty million bison once roamed the great plains of North America. By the close of the 19th century, it’s estimated that less than 1,000 bison survived. Historically, the animal played an essential role in the lives of the Lakota (Sioux), who relied on the “Tatanka” for food, clothing, and shelter.

Today, nearly 1,300 bison wander the park’s 71,000 acres of mountains, hills, and prairie which they share with a wealth of wildlife including pronghorn antelope, elk, white-tailed and mule deer, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, coyotes, wild turkeys, a band of burros, and whole towns of adorable prairie dogs.

Bison herd in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The bison herd roams freely throughout the park and is often found along the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road in the southern part of the park. Bison seem docile but can run very fast and turn on a dime. Weighing as much as 2,000 pounds, these animals are forces to be reckoned with. Visitors should stay inside their vehicles when viewing the bison and not get too close. Most wildlife can easily be seen from your car. Bear in mind, they are wild. Keep your distance.

Visit the last Friday in September and feel the thunder and join the herd at the annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup (September 24, in 2021). Watch cowboys and cowgirls as they round up and drive the herd of approximately 1,300 buffalo. Not only is the roundup a spectacular sight to see, but it is also a critical management tool in maintaining a strong and healthy herd.

The Buffalo Roundup begins at 9:30 a.m. with the parking lots opening at 6:15 a.m. Arrive early to pick your spot. Guests must stay in the viewing areas until the herd is safely in the corrals, generally around noon. Breakfast is available at 6:15 a.m. in both viewing areas. Lunch is served at the corrals once the buffalo are rounded up. There is a fee for both meals. Testing, branding, and sorting of the buffalo begins at 1 p.m. and lasts until approximately 3 p.m. Crews will work the remainder of the herd in October.

In addition to wildlife, the park features several historic sites, including the State Game Lodge, the Badger Hole, the Gordon Stockade, the Peter Norbeck Visitor Center, and the Mount Coolidge Fire Tower. The Black Hills Playhouse, which hosts performances each summer, is also located within the park, as are four resorts, each offering lodging, dining, and activities.

Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The park also has four mountain lakes. These lakes, along with several streams, offer many water recreation and fishing opportunities.

In March 1919, Custer State Park was named the first official state park. In 2019, South Dakota’s oldest state park celebrated 100 years of outdoor tradition. Each year, more than 1.5 million visitors enjoy the numerous and varied activities, attractions, and events found year-round within Custer State Park.

The park is a driver’s delight. There are three scenic drives—Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road, and Wildlife Loop Road—which are part of the extensive network of backcountry lanes on the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway for 70 miles, the route threads its way around pigtail bridges, through one-lane rock-walled tunnels, and ascends to the uppermost heights of the Needles.

The Needles in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The needle-like granite formations that seem to pierce the horizon in Custer State Park, known as the Needles, are truly see-it-to-believe-it phenomena. Drive Needles Highway to see for yourself just how majestic these outcroppings are in person. The Needles Highway is much more than a 14-mile road—it’s a spectacular drive through pine and spruce forests, meadows surrounded by birch and aspen, and rugged granite mountains.

The adventurous should carve out time to hike Cathedral Spires Trail. This moderate 1.5-mile trail offers spectacular views of these unique rock formations. You’ll likely pass rock climbers hauling gear in or out of the trail, as the spires are home to some of the most sought-after climbing routes in the Black Hills.

Wild burros seeking handouts in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Other top trails include Sunday Gulch Trail, Little Devils Tower Trail, Lover’s Leap Trail, and Sylvan Lake Shore Trail. You can begin your trek to Black Elk Peak at one of two trailheads within the park.

The roadway was carefully planned by former South Dakota Governor Peter Norbeck, who marked the entire course on foot and by horseback. Construction was completed in 1922.

Visitors traveling the highway pass Sylvan Lake and a unique rock formation called the Needle’s Eye, so named for the opening created by wind, rain, freezing, and thawing.

The 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road takes visitors through open grasslands and pine-speckled hills that much of the park’s wildlife call home.

Mount Rushmore from the Iron Mountain Road in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The 18-mile Iron Mountain Road winds between Mount Rushmore National Memorial and the junction of U.S. 16A and SR 36. Constructed in 1933, only a portion of this road lies within the park, but it is a must-see.

The Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway complements the park’s three scenic drives and includes some of the most dramatic natural and historic features in the Black Hills.

Camping in Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Following an action-packed day, sleep under the stars in Custer State Park. There are nine campgrounds tucked away in ponderosa pine forests, alongside fresh flowing streams, or near a mountain lake. The choice is yours! Campsites accommodate RVs and tents. Each campsite offers gravel or paved camping pad, a fire grate, and a picnic table. Electric hookups are available in most campgrounds. Or, you can relax in a one-room, log-style camping cabin or historic lodge located throughout the park.

The clear mountain waters are inviting and the open ranges are waiting to be discovered. Bring your family to Custer State Park and let yourself run wild.

Worth Pondering…

When your spirit cries for peace, come to a world of canyons deep in an old land; feel the exultation of high plateaus, the strength of moving wasters, the simplicity of sand and grass, and the silence of growth.

—August Fruge

Become Best Friends with a Burro in Oatman

The burros own the town

No trip to Laughlin is complete without a detour to Oatman, a Route 66 ghost town in Arizona that has become a bit more touristy over the years. The new escape room at the local jail is fun. The Oatman Hotel is a great stop for lunch. The restaurant has killer buffalo burgers and the walls (and even parts of the ceiling) are covered with dollar bills.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But the real draw is the burros roaming Oatman whose ancestors were brought in to work during the mining days. A few unwritten rules to follow: first—burros and dogs don’t mix. Second—don’t feed the burros carrots which are high in sugar and do a number on the digestive tract. You’re more than welcome to feed them alfalfa squares, sold in bags for a dollar.

Finally—when the burros are in the middle of the road (which they frequently are), they have the right of way. Cars have to wait, no matter how long it takes. No honking, revving engines, or doing anything else to encourage them to move along.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

They know how to have fun in Oatman where good-humored shops line the street and the burros contribute to the annual fall Burro Biskit Toss.

More than 500,000 visitors are drawn annually to Oatman’s gold mine history as well as the legend of its namesake. Olive Oatman is entrenched in western lore as a woman who was kidnapped by an Indian tribe, then sold to a friendly local tribe before being freed to her family near what became Oatman.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman was sparsely settled starting in 1863 when a small bit of gold was discovered in the surrounding Black Mountains. Not much came of the discovery until two lucky prospectors struck it rich in 1915 with a 10 million dollar claim. The town grew rapidly after that, and in the course of a single year the tiny tent village became a town of 3,500 people. In the 1920s and ’30s, the population grew to around 10,000. In 1921, a fire swept through the town destroying most of Oatman’s buildings.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman certainly prospered during a decade-long gold rush, but when the mines dried up, so did everything else. The town’s biggest mine closed in 1924, and by 1941, the government ordered the closing of Oatman’s remaining mining operations as part of the country’s war efforts.

Because of its location on Route 66, local commerce shifted toward accommodating motorists traveling between Kingman, Arizona and Needles, California. From 1926 to 1952, the Mother Road coursed through the heart of Oatman, sustaining a healthy tourism business. Interstate 40 bypassed Oatman in the early 1950s, however, and by the early 1960s, the whole area was all but abandoned.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A revitalized interest in historic route 66 saved Oatman from demise, and while it may not be thriving, it’s got a lot to offer visitors looking for that kitschy slice of Americana. Oatman is often described as a ghost town, but that is not quite accurate. The current human population is 128. The burro population is close to 2,000.

The town prides itself on maintaining a Wild West feel, down to the wooden sidewalks, staged shootouts, and kitschy shops. (You can even adopt a wild burro and take it home!)

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Clark Gable and Carole Lombard allegedly honeymooned at the 1902 two-story adobe Oatman Hotel after marrying in nearby Kingman. Some say the lovebirds’ spirits as well as other former lodgers still vacation there. The hotel remains open as a museum and restaurant.

Oatman is surrounded by Bureau of Land Management wilderness which is also home to desert bighorn sheep. Outdoor activities include hiking, camping, hunting, photography, and rock climbing.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman is a day trip full of surprises—of ghost towns and ghost roads and wild burros. And one of the most scenic drives in the state. Now that’s something to bray about.

Worth Pondering…

So many ghosts upon the road,
My eyes I swear are playing tricks;
And a voice I hear, it’s Tom Joad,
Near Oatman on Route 66.

—Dave MacLennan

A Cheaper Mini-Vegas

Laughlin is a more relaxed Las Vegas. They’ve created a niche with Nevada-style gaming, but without the high-speed lifestyle of the Las Vegas Strip.

While flying his plane over the Colorado River in 1964, Don Laughlin saw a world of potential in a strip of Nevada land across the river from Arizona’s Bullhead City. At the time the area was home to less than a thousand people. He took a big risk invested it into an old boarded-up eight-room motel. From there, success took over.

Laughlin © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

That motel added casino games and eventually evolved into the Riverside Resort with two massive towers. The town itself—about a 90-minute drive from Las Vegas—became official when postal services were established.

Don Laughlin is still going strong at 88 years and living in a penthouse at the top of his resort. The town that shares his name is now home to nine casino hotels, 10 if you include the Avi Resort about 15 miles south on Native American land. 

Laughlin’s population is approximately 10,000 while Bullhead City and its unincorporated area boast a population of about 42,000 permanent residents. An estimated 14,000 Nevada and Arizona residents currently work in Laughlin’s hotels and casinos. Multi-million dollar Laughlin housing developments have rushed into construction to keep pace with the business boom.

Laughlin © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Stretch your legs while exploring Laughlin on foot at the Riverwalk. Well maintained and offering fantastic views of the city and the Colorado River, the Laughlin Riverwalk is a great way to get from one casino to the other while soaking up sights like Don Laughlin’s Riverside to the boats sailing by.

The coolest way to get around town is by water taxi. These small boats, piloted by certified captains, zip around on the river from one property to another. Most casinos have their own dock and if you stand around on one, a water taxi will show up fairly quick. A single ride is $5, although wristband deals are available for unlimited rides.

Laughlin © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

If someone directs you to anything described as a “nightclub,” be warned it won’t be anything like Vegas. They’re mostly lounges with live bands and line dancing. Bikini Bay Bar & Nightclub is really a sports bar with pool tables and drinks served by girls in bikinis who dance on countertops. It’s probably the closest thing you’ll find to a strip club in Laughlin—and oddly enough, it’s at the outlet mall. 

One local gem is Losers’ Lounge, a two-level drinking spot where the walls are decorated with framed photos of “losers” throughout history like OJ Simpson and Tonya Harding. The gallery stays surprisingly up to date—recent additions include Bill Cosby and Lori Loughlin. 

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

No trip to Laughlin is complete without a detour to Oatman, a Route 66 ghost town in Arizona that has become a bit more touristy over the years. The new escape room at the local jail is fun. But be sure to visit the Oatman Hotel for lunch. The restaurant has buffalo burgers and the walls (and even parts of the ceiling) are covered with dollar bills.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But the real draw is the burros roaming Oatman whose ancestors were brought in to work during the mining days. A few unwritten rules to follow: first—burros and dogs don’t mix. Second—don’t feed the burros carrots, which are high in sugar and do a number on the digestive tract. You’re more than welcome to feed them alfalfa squares, sold in bags for a dollar. Finally—when the burros are in the middle of the road (which they frequently are), they have the right of way. Cars have to wait, no matter how long it takes. No honking, revving engines, or doing anything else to encourage them to move along. The burros own the town!

For another out-of-town excursion, Jet Boat tours travel nearly 60 miles down the river from Laughlin to Lake Havasu. You can hang out in the town for a few hours and check out London Bridge, a historic structure that actually spanned the River Thames and was brought over brick by brick. Along the way, the boat travels past the California town of Needles, the Havasu National Wildlife Refuge, and vantage points that can only be seen from the water, including petroglyphs in Topock Gorge. 

Laughlin © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

And if you’re looking for a selfie station take a photo with River Rick. Or at the Losers’ Lounge. Or at any one of the other gems in Don Laughlin’s little resort town.

Worth Pondering…

The road is there, it will always be there. You just have to decide when to take it.

—Chris Humphrey

A Braying Good Time in Oatman

Oatman prides itself on maintaining a Wild West feel, down to the wooden sidewalks, staged shootouts, and kitschy shops. (You can even adopt a wild burro and take it home!)

You’ve got to see Oatman to believe it. This tiny town is in a rugged area carved out of the wilderness by determined miners and now populated by more wild burros than people.

On the road to Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

They know how to have fun in Oatman where good-humored shops line the street and the furriest residents—small donkeys descended from miners’ beasts of burden—contribute to the annual fall Burro Biskit Toss.

Burros on the road to Oatman

More than 500,000 visitors are drawn annually to Oatman’s gold mine history as well as the legend of its namesake. Olive Oatman is entrenched in western lore as a woman who was kidnapped by an Indian tribe then sold to a friendly local tribe before being freed to her family near what became Oatman.

On Route 66 between Kingman and Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The town of Oatman is 28 miles southwest of Kingman along old Route 66. This town in the Black Mountains of Mohave County was founded back in 1915. Two miners discovered gold in the nearby hills and put the place on the map. By 1915 these two miners pulled out over $10 million worth of gold in a short time. That would be about a quarter of a billion dollars in today’s dollars. Oatman grew to nearly four thousand people within the year.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But the town has a very sad tale that accounts for its name. Pioneers from the east looking for a new life came west in search of a better life. One such pioneering family was the Oatmans from Illinois. Royce and Mary Ann Oatman had seven children and one on the way as Mary Ann was pregnant. As their wagon train made its way toward Maricopa Wells along the Southern Emigrant Trail, it was approached by Yavapai Indians. Royce Oatman was prepared to give some supplies but when he refused to give the Yavapai more of their already limited supplies, the family was massacred.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Only their son, Lorenzo, and two daughters, Olive and Mary Ann, survived. Believing the boy to be dead, the Yavapai stole the Oatman’s possessions as well as the two girls as slaves. Mary Ann later died in captivity but Olive survived and was reunited with her brother in 1856 at Fort Yuma. In honor of the family that lost their dream for a better life, the village of Oatman was named for them

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The area surrounding present-day Oatman was mined for decades before the two miners showed up in 1915. Back in 1863, Johnny Moss discovered gold in the Black Mountains and staked a couple claims. One, he named after himself—a very thoughtful choice—and the other in memory of Olive Oatman.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

As with most small mining communities, this area had its ups and downs, depending on the prices for minerals and the cost of getting them to market. But in 1915, that large deposit of gold was discovered and Oatman was on the map as the largest producer of gold in the American West.

By the 1960s, the boom had gone bust and Oatman was nearly deserted. So what to do with an old mining camp? Why not make it a tourist attraction?

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

According to visitarizona.com, more than 500,000 visitors are drawn annually to Oatman’s gold mine history as well as the legend of its namesake. For a village, that’s a lot of people walking up and down the streets. Actually, when visiting most people walk along wooden sidewalks—just like they did way back when.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But when the burros come visiting most anything goes. The burros that live in the nearby hills are a major calling card for Oatman. They are everywhere—and I mean everywhere. The early miners used burros to carry their belongings as they went from one gold strike to hopefully, the next. Being a miner was a lonely business. Often, when a miner died alone, the burro simply wandered off. Over time, the burros thrived in the hills near Oatman. The burros strut along the streets, brush up against vehicles, and bray at anyone who will listen.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman is such a tourist destination that back in 1939 Clark Gable and Carole Lombard allegedly honeymooned at the 1902 two-story adobe Oatman Hotel after marrying in nearby Kingman. It is no longer an actual hotel but tourists can eat at the first-floor restaurant or have a drink at the bar before visiting the museum on the second floor where the lovebirds spent their wedding night. Some say the lovebirds’ spirits as well as other former lodgers still vacation there. The hotel is the oldest two-story adobe building in Mohave County.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman has been used as a backdrop in numerous films, too. There’s “How the West was Won” (1962), “Roadhouse 66” (1984) and “Killer Holiday” (2013).

There are numerous shops along the main street and some of the activities offered during the year include the Great Oatman Bed Race in January, the sidewalk egg frying contest on July 4, and the Christmas Bush Decorating held in December.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

We stayed a few hours, wandering here and there. We patted the burros and made sure that each store saw our feet. We crawled into a pub or two, as well. One does get thirsty wandering a village.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman is surrounded by Bureau of Land Management wilderness which is also home to desert bighorn sheep. Outdoor activities include hiking, camping, hunting, photography, and rock climbing.

When in this part of Arizona (it really isn’t that far), take some time and visit Oatman. You’ll have a braying good time.

Worth Pondering…

So many ghosts upon the road,
My eyes I swear are playing tricks;
And a voice I hear, it’s Tom Joad,
Near Oatman on Route 66.

—Dave MacLennan

Oatman: Living Ghost Town, Gunfighters & Burros

Driving to the historic town of Oatman is a favorite Arizona road trip

With COVID-19 (Coronavirus) everyone’s lives—yours and ours—were thrown into a scrambled state of flux. Someday, we’ll all be ready to pack the RV again and head out on our next adventure. In the meantime, here’s some inspiration for the future.

Here is our plan: We’ll drive to a town that shouldn’t exist. We’ll travel a twisted ribbon of pavement along Historic Route 66.

Historic Route 66 to Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Once a gold-mining boomtown, Oatman hunkers in a craggy gulch of the Black Mountains, 28 miles southwest of Kingman. Rising above town is the jagged peak of white quartz known as Elephant’s Tooth. Often described as a ghost town, Oatman comes close to fitting the category considering that it once boasted nearly 20,000 people and now supports just a little over 100 people year-round.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman has about 40 gift, antique, and craft shops, two Old Time Photo Shops, Judy’s Bar, assorted ghosts, and several places to eat and listen to live music. Though Oatman is only a shadow of its former self, it is well worth a visit to this living ghost town that provides not only a handful of historic buildings and photo opportunities but costumed gunfighters and 1890s style ladies as well as the sights of burros walking the streets.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The burg’s most famous residents are its four-legged ambassadors. Burros from the surrounding hills wander into Oatman daily and mosey around town blocking traffic, greeting visitors, and chomping on alfalfa squares sold by the shop owners.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

When the burros are in the middle of the road (which they frequently are), they have the right of way. Cars have to wait, no matter how long it takes. No honking, revving engines, or doing anything else to encourage them to move along.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

No matter how tame they seem, the burros are wild animals. Use caution and common sense when feeding them. Do not feed junk food to the burros. Also, it’s best to leave Rover at home. Many burros consider the family pooch nothing more than a coyote with connections. The burros are descendants of animals used by miners and abandoned when the ore played out.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman owes its place in history to two miners who struck it rich in 1915, uncovering more than $10 million in gold. A tent city soon sprang up as other miners heard of the gold find and flocked to the area; within a year, the town’s population grew to more than 3,500.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

By 1930, it was estimated that 36 million dollars worth of gold had come from the mines. The town boasted two banks, seven hotels, twenty saloons, and ten stores. The town’s name is attributed to Olive Oatman, a young girl kidnapped by Indians and eventually rescued and returned to her family.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

More modern events add to the allure of the tiny town, the most famous of which is a visit by Clark Gable and Carol Lombard who spent their honeymoon in the Oatman Hotel in 1939. The well-used building, listed on the National Historic Building Registry, continues to attract visitors today. The Oatman Hotel is a great stop for lunch. The restaurant has killer buffalo burgers and the walls (and even parts of the ceiling) are covered with dollar bills.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

If you notice folks clustering in the street without a ravenous burro in sight, it signals an impending gunfight. Gunfighter groups stage shootouts at various times throughout the day.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

When the mines shuttered, the stream of traffic along Route 66, the main route from the Midwest to California, kept Oatman alive. Then in 1952, Interstate 40 was constructed from Kingman, Arizona to Needles, California, bypassing this stretch of mountains. Oatman barely hung on.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In the ’70s, Laughlin, Nevada started up; and in the late ’80s, Route 66 became a popular destination for tourists from around the world. Today, a half-million people visit this historic outpost each year. Not bad for an old ghost town off the beaten path. The town just waited for the world to come back around.

Folks start to roll out of town in late afternoon. Even the burros clock out and mosey back into the hills.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman is a day trip full of surprises—of ghost towns and ghost roads, and wild burros. And one of the most scenic drives in the state. Now that’s something to bray about.

Back in the hills © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Worth Pondering…

So many ghosts upon the road,
My eyes I swear are playing tricks;
And a voice I hear, it’s Tom Joad,
Near Oatman on Route 66.

—Dave MacLennan

Get Your Kicks (And Burros) On Route 66

The Mother Road. Route 66. Main Street of America. Will Rogers Highway. The quintessential American Road Trip!

The mention of Route 66 to most baby-boomers conjures up images of George Maharis and Martin Milner cruising along in their early Corvette roadster in the television series of the same name.

While reminiscing, you have the popular rhythm and blues standard (Get Your Kicks on) Route 66 echoing through your mind. Composed in 1946 by songwriter Bobby Troup, this hit song was followed by the Route 66 TV drama in the early ’60s.

But a trip to Oatman, a small, quaint community situated in Western Arizona will quite possibly reveal a whole new dimension to that 60-year-old song.

Historic Route 66 from Kingman to Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Tucked away on a very old section of Route 66, Oatman is about 25 miles from Kingman and Bullhead, Arizona, and Needles, California. This allows for a quick day trip from any of these locations.

Upon entering the historic old downtown, visitors are greeted by wild burros that roam up and down the main street hoping to get a healthy snack. These seemingly tame creatures actually live in a free-range area of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land adjacent to the tiny town. The burros are descendants of animals used by miners and abandoned when the ore played out.

No matter how tame they seem, the burros are wild animals. Use caution and common sense when feeding them. Do not feed junk food to the burros. Local merchants sell bagged carrots for $1, a small price to pay to meet a new friend!

It’s best to leave Rover at home. Many burros consider the family pooch nothing more than a coyote with connections.

Historic Route 66 from Kingman to Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Most of the shops and restaurants that line the main street are housed in the buildings that were constructed soon after gold was discovered in the area in 1902. As with most mining towns of the Old West, Oatman is a shadow of its former self. Once catering to a vibrant population boasting nearly 20,000 people, there are a little over 100 folks that live here today.

Oatman has about 40 gift, antique, and craft shops, two Old Time Photo Shops, Judy’s Bar, assorted ghosts, and several places to eat and listen to live music.

The town first became known as Vivian, after the Vivian Mining Company, which produced over $3 million in gold ore during the early 1900s. In 1909, the name was changed to Oatman, to honor Olive Oatman, a young child who had been abducted by Apache Indians during the 1850s. She was subsequently rescued near the present town site. 

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Several economic cycles relating to the mining industry have occurred in the area over the years, but after the rerouting of Route 66 in 1952, the town’s success quickly faded. Since then, it has become a popular tourist town. Because of the numerous old buildings and the towering mountains, the area has had its share of appearances in various movies, including How The West Was Won and Foxfire. The old Oatman Hotel (formerly Drulin Hotel, circa 1902) is still in operation today and is reported to be where Clark Gable and Carol Lombard spent their wedding night.

Beyond the burros, shops, and restaurants, Oatman also features costumed dancers and daily gunfights to help preserve the feeling of the Old West. There are various special events, too.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

When traveling with your RV, it is strongly recommended that you use your tow vehicle or toad to make your way to and around Oatman. This is especially true if driving from Kingman on old Route 66, coming over Sitgreaves Pass. This section, although graced with breathtaking scenery, is extremely twisty and steep. Vehicle length is limited to 40 feet. Few or no turnarounds for larger vehicles are available in the downtown area of Oatman. 

Numerous RV parks are available in Bullhead City, Kingman, and Needles. Additionally, Lake Havasu is only 55 miles away. When in the Kingman area, we use Blake Ranch RV Park as our home base.

Oatman is a day trip full of surprises—of ghost towns and ghost roads, and wild burros. And one of the most scenic drives in the state.

Now that’s something to bray about.

Worth Pondering…

So many ghosts upon the road,
My eyes I swear are playing tricks;
And a voice I hear, it’s Tom Joad,
Near Oatman on Route 66.

—Dave MacLennan