Black Hills Adventure: A Summer RV Journey

A summer road trip through South Dakota’s Black Hills offers a mix of stunning landscapes, iconic landmarks, and outdoor adventures. Here’s a concise plan to hit the highlights, tailored for an RV-friendly road trip.

From afar, South Dakota’s pine-laden Black Hills really do appear black, especially once the sun begins to dip behind their peaks. That’s what the Lakota Sioux also noticed about this sacred territory when they appropriately named it Paha Sapa which literally translates to Black Hills.

It’s not hard to understand how this land’s lucrative appeal both due to its natural beauty and the discovery of gold in the area in 1874 led to numerous brawls between the U.S. military and the Lakota who were ultimately forced to relinquish the land to the U.S. government in 1977. 

Even still, a road trip through these hills today is one laced together with Lakota culture, complex history, otherworldly landscapes, and all the bison a carnivore could ever want. And with Badlands National Park conveniently close by, a detour there is a hog-killin’ time (that’s Wild West slang for a lot of fun). Here’s one great way of doing it.

  • Trip length: 4 days; 178+ miles, depending on stops and detours
  • Where to start and finish: Begin your trip in Rapid City which will wrap up in a few days at Badlands National Park.
  • Things to know: Driving around the region consists of lengthy interstate stretches—especially around Badlands—and winding, take-it-easy cruises—notably around Custer State Park—to do the scenery justice.
  • Weather: Summer temps range from 60-85°F but afternoons can hit 90°F. Pack layers and sunscreen. Badlands can be hotter; bring ample water. Shade is virtually nonexistent on the trails.
Black Hills © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Stop 1: Rapid City

Rapid City, often called the “Gateway to the Black Hills,” is a vibrant hub for exploring the region’s natural wonders, historic sites, and cultural attractions.

  • Location: Centrally located at the edge of the Black Hills, Rapid City is within an hour’s drive of Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, and Badlands National Park, making it ideal for day trips.
  • Population: 78,000, second-largest city in South Dakota
  • Getting around: Downtown is walkable but an RV or car is needed for attractions like Dinosaur Park. Parking lots are generally RV-friendly; confirm size limits.
  • Vibes: The urban hub of western South Dakota, Rapid City is more than a gateway to the state’s natural beauties. Be sure to linger in its creative, historic downtown.
  • Do: Perhaps the city’s most famous attraction is the statues of all 45 US presidents lining the downtown streets (allegedly 9/10 the size of their real-life counterparts). Grab a free walking tour map at the visitor center (529 Main St.). It’s fun for history buffs; takes about 1-2 hours to stroll.
  • See: You could spend hours browsing Prairie Edge & Sioux Trading Post’s three stories of galleries and goods made by Northern Plains tribes before walking over to admire traditional buffalo hide drums at Dakota Drum Company. Top the day off (literally) by driving up to Dinosaur Park for panoramic views of Rapid City, accompanied by life-size dinosaur sculptures. 
  • Eat: Go for your daily bread (or pastry) at the Sour. For laid-back Mexican fare on an outdoor patio, it’s Qué Pasa Mexican Cantina.
  • Stay: Even if you don’t stay a night at the Hotel Alex Johnson, do pop into its lodge-like lobby and learn about their star-studded roster of past guests like Alfred Hitchcock and Jane Goodall—and some spooky guests rumored to have never left.
  • Camp: Camping options include Rapid City RV Park & Campground (4110 S Hwy 16), Lazy J RV Park (4111 Jackson Blvd), Rushmore Shadows Resort (23680 Busted Five Ct., ~10 miles south), and dispersed camping in Black Hills National Forest.
Black Hills © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Stop 2: Deadwood

  • The drive (41 miles, 45 minutes): Take US I-90 W and get off at Exit 30. Follow US-14A to Deadwood.

Deadwood is a historic gold rush town in the Black Hills about 40 miles northwest of Rapid City (~45-minute drive via I-90 and US-14A) making it a perfect stop on your summer road trip. Known for its Wild West legacy, vibrant Main Street, and modern casino scene, Deadwood blends history, entertainment, and outdoor adventure.

  • History: Founded during the 1876 Black Hills Gold Rush, Deadwood was home to legends like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane. Its entire downtown is a National Historic Landmark.
  • Parking: Downtown Deadwood has limited RV parking; use lots at the Deadwood Welcome Center (501 Main St.) or Tin Lizzie (555 Main St.). Avoid narrow side streets with large RVs.
  • Vibes: The stage of many a wild Western legend, Deadwood is where the gold rush (so much gold, it was sticking in the horses’ hooves, one observer reported) peaked in the Black Hills in the late 1800s. Architecturally, very little has changed since. Step inside any hotel today, however and you’ll come face-to-face with one of Deadwood’s over 20 casinos.
  • Do: Book a tour at Deadwood’s brothel museum which is housed in one of the town’s former brothels and covers the complex stories of the women who lived and worked in the town’s 104-year-long brothel scene.
  • See: Then catch daily reenactments starring the town’s most famous gold rush characters like Wild Bill Hickok and Jack McCall such as main street shootouts (sounds gruesome but it’s oddly a family-friendly experience). Or dive even further into the town’s history at the Days of ‘76 Museum (ample RV parking).
  • Eat: Sit outside for breakfast or lunch at Pump House at Mind Blown Studio, a former Texaco station that’s now a glass-blowing studio with an attached cafe. Then don your fanciest jeans for a fine steak dinner at Legends Steakhouse inside the Franklin Hotel. Saloon No. 10, a historic bar where Wild Bill was shot serves bison burgers and craft beers with live music nightly in summer.
  • Stay: If walkability is a priority, spend the night at Holiday Inn Resort Deadwood Mountain Grand, formerly a plant that extracted gold from slime in its earliest days, recently renovated with all the modern hotel amenities. For an elegant, better-than-glamping respite, book a night in one of the bungalows at Shortgrass Resort.
  • Camp: Deadwood offers RV-friendly campgrounds but book early for summer (June-August). Most are within 5-10 miles due to limited space in town: Deadwood KOA (11484 US-14A, 2 miles north), Elkhorn Ridge RV Resort (20189 US-85, 10 miles north near Spearfish), Whistler Gulch Campground (235 Cliff St., in Deadwood), and dispersed camping in the Black Hills National Forest.

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Custer State Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Stop 3: Custer State Park

  • The drive (70 miles, 1 hour and 20 minutes): Take US-385 S to SD-87 S in West Pennington. Drive to SD-87 S in West Custer. Optional detours include Mt Rushmore and Crazy Horse Memorial.

Custer State Park is a 71,000-acre gem about 40 miles south of Rapid City (~1-hour drive via SD-79 and US-16A) and 25 miles from Mount Rushmore (~40 minutes via US-16A). A highlight of your summer Black Hills road trip, it’s renowned for its stunning landscapes, abundant wildlife, and RV-friendly amenities.

  • Entrance fee: $20/vehicle for a 7-day pass
  • Activities: Offers hiking, biking, fishing, and cultural experiences, perfect for RV travelers seeking adventure and relaxation.
  • Vibes: A state park with the grandeur of a national park, Custer is bison country though it’s also roamed by elk, white-tailed deer, bighorn sheep, pronghorns, wild donkeys, and an exploding population of chirping prairie dogs. I like to think Windows drew inspiration from Custer’s landscape when deciding on its default computer background.
  • Do: You can self-drive the park’s 18-mile Wildlife Loop Rosd but a buffalo Jeep safari grants you off-road access and fascinating background about the park’s wildlife. Book a 7 pm tour to catch the sunset behind the hills. 
  • See: Needles Highway (SD-87, 14 miles, ~45 minutes) is a winding drive through granite spires and tunnels including the narrow Needles Eye Tunnel (8’4” wide, check RV clearance). Enjoy stunning views of Cathedral Spires.  Not suitable for large RVs due to tight turns and low tunnels; use a tow vehicle or rent a car if needed.
  • Drive: Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway combines Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road, and parts of US-16A (67 miles total) and features pigtail bridges and views of Mount Rushmore. Allow 3-4 hours for the full loop. Note that Iron Mountain Road has low tunnels (e.g., 10’9” high); stick to smaller vehicles.
  • Hike: For a manageable hike, head to Sylvan Lake for a uniquely rocky descent on Sunday Gulch Trail. Just remember: however far you go, you’ll have to come back up to return to your car. Or take a leisurely 1-mile walk around the lake pausing to admire the view from its colossal surrounding boulders (one of which has a cameo in National Treasure: Book of Secrets). Then saddle up for a guided trail ride with Blue Bell Lodge. Then impulsively switch career paths after buying a cowboy hat at a gift shop.
  • Eat: Over in the town of Custer, Skogen Kitchen is anything but traditional where fried chicken steamed buns, beef tartar tacos and duck confit all feature on the innovative menu.
  • Stay: There’s something undeniably American about staying in a national park lodge. State Game Lodge is known as former US President Calvin Coolidge’s 1927 “Summer White House,” and today, guests can book its historic rooms as well as newer, regular hotel rooms attached to the original structure. Or you can stay in a cozy, woodsy room at Creekside Lodge right next door, which is also where the buffalo safari tours meet.
  • Camp: Custer State Park has seven campgrounds, four with RV sites. No full hookups but most offer electric and dump stations nearby.
Custer State Park camping © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

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Badlands National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Stop 4: Badlands National Park

  • The drive (86 miles, 1 hour and 20 minutes, including a stop in Wall): Take SD-79 N back toward Rapid City and merge onto I-90E. Pull off in Wall for a pit stop at the infamous Wall Drug before entering the park’s north entrance.

Badlands National Park, located about 80 miles east of Rapid City (~1.5-hour drive via I-90), is a must-visit on your summer Black Hills road trip. Spanning 244,000 acres, its dramatic landscape of eroded buttes, pinnacles, and colorful rock layers combined with vast prairies makes it a striking contrast to the lush Black Hills. Known for its fossil-rich geology, abundant wildlife, and epic stargazing, it’s a perfect stop for RV travelers seeking adventure and natural beauty.

  • Entrance fee: $30/vehicle for a 7-day pass or use an America the Beautiful Pass ($80/year)
  • RV restrictions: Badlands Loop Road is RV-friendly (no low tunnels), but Sage Creek Road is gravel and may be rough after rain. Max RV length for Cedar Pass is 50 ft; confirm site size when booking.
  • Vibes: Shade and grass are elusive at Badlands whose striking rock formations are millions of years old, eroded over time by the elements. The result is a craggy skyline of painterly layers in varying hues of red, orange, brown, gray and, in the right lighting, purple.
  • Do: Badlands Loop Road (Hwy 240, ~40 miles, 1-2 hours), the main scenic drive through the park, connects overlooks like Pinnacles, Yellow Mounds, and Panorama Point. It’s ideal for RVs with pullouts for photos and short walks.
  • Hike: A hike is a must for any visitor in Badlands. With only a day to spare, four fabulous options sit beside each other: Window, Door, Notch, and Castle. Window and Door are brief, accessible ¼-mile boardwalks with the option to continue onto the bedrock. Notch is the most popular trek in the park at 1.5 miles round-trip and a portion of the trail climbs a log ladder. If you have more time, challenge yourself to the 10-mile round-trip Castle with the hopes of catching sight of bighorn sheep and pronghorn.
  • Note: Trails are exposed; summer heat (80-95°F) can be intense. Carry water (1L/person) and start hikes before 10 am.
  • Do: Take shelter in your car’s AC and drive the entire loop around the park. Then watch the sunset turn the rocks a vivid orange from Pinnacles Overlook.
  • Stargazing: Badlands’ dark skies are ideal for astronomy. Join ranger-led night sky programs (summer evenings) or view stars from Pinnacles Overlook. Bring binoculars or a telescope.
  • Eat: Cedar Pass Lodge Restaurant near the visitor center is the only dining option in the park serving bison burgers, Indian tacos, and salads. Or drive 10 minutes from Badlands’ northern entrance to the town of Wall which literally sits on the 20-mile wall of the park. Stop into Wall Drug—you’ve likely spotted many of its almost 300 bold signs miles before you arrive. Try one of their legendary donuts, free ice water (which put this formerly tiny pharmacy on the map in the 1930s) and peruse over 76,000 sq ft of gift shops, an arcade, photo ops like a giant jackalope, and mini Mt Rushmore, a restaurant—and yes, there is still a pharmacy inside that mimics its original structure. Some say tourist trap; I say iconic roadside attraction.
  • Stay: Spend your final sleep in a private log cabin at Badlands Frontier Cabins in Wall.
  • Camp: Badlands has two campgrounds plus nearby options for RVs. Book early for summer. No full hookups in the park but dump stations are available. Buffalo Gap National Grassland surrounding the park offers free boondocking (e.g., near Nomad View Dispersed Camping area off Sage Creek Rd.)
Badlands National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

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Worth Pondering…

In the Black Hills, nature has carved a masterpiece of stone and sky.

—John Muir

Visit Julian: California’s Mountain Town Gem

Nestled in the picturesque Cuyamaca Mountains, Julian is famous for its mouth-watering apple pies and cider from local orchards along with a rich California gold rush history

Julian is known for its historical charm, gold mines, wolf preserve, and apple orchards. Visitors can enjoy unique experiences, delicious food and drink, and explore popular places like Volcano Mountain Winery, Eagle Mining Co., and Julian Pie Company. 

California has a wide range of activities to do and though many people think that it is very crowded, this gem of a town is less touristy and therefore is the perfect place to do some exploring. Julian is the ultimate place to get away for both California locals and visitors to the state. It offers all four seasons with tons of activities to take part in which can make it appealing (although the San Diego and Palm Springs areas are on the list of warm winter cities in California).

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Distance to Julian

  • Temecula: 53 miles
  • San Diego: 60 miles
  • Palm Springs: 100 miles
  • Indio: 100 miles

What’s so special about Julian?

Julian is located in San Diego County and is quite a small town with a population of 1,356 people.

What makes Julian so special compared to other Southern California locations is that it has all four distinct seasons. Not only that but what is also appealing is how the city celebrates them. Julian is a little mountain town that has lots of events throughout the year that make it an inviting place to visit.

Since Julian takes advantage of embracing the four different seasons, the town places a special emphasis on the outdoors. The public not only celebrates the nature that surrounds them but they take part of it too as there are tons of activities offered that are right in nature.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Things to do in Julian

In Julian, there are tons of unique experiences just waiting to be had. The town itself has lots of historical background which fill the streets with charm. Also, the unique aspects it offers such as gold mines and even a wolf preserve are things that travelers can only find here.

Food and drink are a popular commodity in the city so there a lot of different restaurants, bakeries, wineries, and fun locations that can offer a special culinary experience for visitors and locals to enjoy.

Whether you’re a first time or repeat visitor these are the most popular activities. Some of them like glorious apple pie never get old.

1. Tour a Julian gold mine

Several companies offer gold mining tours so that guests can learn more about San Diego’s only gold rush. This is such a unique thing to do making it a favorite Julian activity.

Julian Mining Company

For those who want a taste of gold mining without the commitment of an extended tour the Julian Mining Company located just a mile or so from downtown Julian offers gold panning (very popular with kids) alongside some edutainment about the local mining history.

Gold panning is the process of separating real pieces of gold from dirt, minerals, and other deposits using a pan and water. At the Julian mines, you’ll typically receive a lesson and be able to take a small vial of panned gold home with you.

Eagle and High Peak Mine

Eagle and High Peak Mine offers one-hour tours of what it was like inside a 1870s gold mine. Guests wind their way through the old mine tunnels and can also pan for gold.

Apple orchard © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

2. Pick apples

Apple picking in Julian is incredibly popular. There are several u-pick apple orchards in the area. Julian apple picking season happens in the fall and all ages love it. It’s a romantic thing to do with your partner and cheerful fun with your kids. 

Orchards provide bags or baskets to fill and poles to grab apples with from off of the apple trees. You can even pick pears here especially at pet-friendly O’Dell’s Organic Orchard. The largest orchard is Volcan Valley Apple Farm. 

It is always best to check which orchards are still open for a u-pick adventure at the time of your visit since harvests vary.

Julian Pie Company © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

3. Eat apple pie

If there’s one thing to eat in Julian, make it apple pie. It’s extraordinary and the Julian restaurants excel at this craft.

Julian Pie Company is the most popular. It’s possible to buy pie by the slice (with toppers such as ice cream or even melted cheddar cheese), whole pies, or pies to bake at home. Their little Main Street cafe offers good coffee, jugs of apple cider, and a lovely little patio area to sit in. 

The other popular spot is Mom’s Pie House also located on Main Street. They have another location in Wynola on the way to Julian where you can even take a baking class to learn how a perfect apple (and other) pie is made.

4. Drink apple cider

Apple cider is also available at many Julian restaurants in regular and hard form. A visit to the Julian Cider Mill, family-owned and operated for over 30 years may give you more insight into the process and the final product. During apple season, they’ll press cider on an antique press in view of visitors.

Head 4 miles west of Main Street and you’ll land at Julian Hard Cider’s Miner’s Saloon located in an old apple packing facility. Here, it’s possible to sample their award-winning hard ciders made from Julian apples (though you can find their suds all over Julian and elsewhere in San Diego).

Mom’s Pie Company © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

5. Sip apple wine and other reds at Julian wineries

In recent years, Julian has also received attention for the number of well-regarded wineries in the area. Popular San Diego wineries like Orfila and Witch Creek Winery have wine tasting rooms on Main Street.

San Diego wineries like Volcan Mountain Winery located about 2 miles from downtown Julian have vineyards with cozy tasting rooms on property. You’ll find the Dolcezza apple wine here. Despite Dolcezza meaning “sweet” or “sweetness” in Italian, it tastes more like a Sauvignon Blanc with hints of apple. 

The wine is made from 100 percent mixed variety apples grown at the winery. A visit here is also a fun thing to do in Julian with dogs as this winery is pet-friendly.

Menghini Winery is another small production Julian winery with vineyards and apple orchards also at the base of Volcan Mountain. They produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, and Syrah. Visitors are welcome to bring a picnic lunch.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

6. Explore downtown Julian

The commercial/business part of downtown Julian is actually tiny. It’s really mostly a single street (the aptly-named Main Street) of several blocks. It’s very picturesque and has a bit of an Old West look and feel.

In keeping with this mining town spirit, you may see people riding in a horse-drawn carriage tour by the Julian Carriage Company, a popular thing to do here.

Tourists enjoy shopping for antiques, crafts, yarn, hand-knit accessories, and specialty foods on Main Street in a small-town atmosphere.

You can stop into the Julian Town Hall & Visitor Center (home also to the Julian Chamber of Commerce) for information and to pick up a map or ask any tourism-related questions about things to do. They also have a fun self-guided walking tour of historic sites that is easy to take.

The Julian Market and Deli are popular for those who may want a picnic lunch to take to a campground, hiking or elsewhere.

Menghini Winery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

7. Go hiking in Julian

There are dozens of hiking trails in and around Julian for all levels. Most are okay for leashed dogs. If you’re interested in the Californian wilderness, head just out of town on one of these popular trails.

Volcan Mountain Trail

Looking for gorgeous views over the rolling hills to the distant ocean? The Volcan Mountain Trail inside Volcan Mountain Wilderness Preserve is a moderate out and back hike with picturesque scenery.

It’s the most popular hike in the area so don’t expect to be the only ones there. If you’re in Julian during wildflower season, it’s even more spectacular.

Sunset Trail and Big Laguna Lake

This beautiful hiking trail is best between April and September when the lake is at its fullest. It’s also a great running trail with minimal elevation gain and a comfortable distance of 4.2 miles. 

Five Oaks Trail

Another fantastic hike in the Volcan Mountain Reserve is the Five Oaks Trail. It’s shorter than the Volcan Mountain Trail and very popular among bird-watchers.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

8. Learn History at the Julian Pioneer Museum

If you’re interested in history and want to understand this mountain town’s rich background better, don’t miss out on the Julian Pioneer Museum.

Located in a 1800s blacksmith shop, the little museum covers the Native American villages in the area to the frenzied activity of the Gold Rush. There are quite a few artifacts to see and enjoy here. 

9. Stop at Oasis Camel Dairy for soap and camel encounters

Approaching Julian on Highway 78 you’ll see an increasing number of cattle ranches, horses, and other animals in fields beside the roads. One of the most notable is the Oasis Camel Dairy which makes and sells camel milk soap, lotions, and chocolate. They also offer tours. 

So, if you’re looking for one of the most unusual Julian things to do, how often do you get to tour a camel dairy? And, truly, their silky smooth soaps make fantastic gifts. Check their website for opening times.

10. Visit the California Wolf Center

The California Wolf Center is a rehabilitation center for wolves. The center emphasizes public outreach to increase awareness of these beautiful animals, reduce wolf-livestock conflict, and promote wolf recovery in California. 

This endangered species has been absent in the wild in California since 1924 until recently thanks to the center’s efforts. The center is home to several packs of grey wolves and offers public and private tours. Closed Wednesdays; call ahead for hours.

11. Attend seasonal events like the Apple Festival

The single event Julian is most known for is the annual Julian Apple Days festival held in late September each year. It’s a celebration of all things apple including a pie contest, crafts, multiple food vendors, and much more family fun. And, because it’s fall, you’ll have one of the only opportunities to peep fall foliage in San Diego County on the gorgeous mountain trees.

It’s also a popular destination during the holidays for tourists to see a wintry, old-time Christmas at the Julian Country Christmas with sleigh rides, chestnuts roasting on an open fire, Santa, and more old-fashioned fun. These are the single two most crowded times of the year to visit the tiny town of Julian.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Where to stay in Julian

While Julian is a fairly easy day trip from San Diego and Coachella Valley many choose it for an overnight getaway. Since camping is incredibly popular advanced reservations are strongly recommended. But, don’t forget you can also opt for charming inns, hotels, and lodges.

Camping in Julian

William Heise County Park Campground

While there are a number of places to go camping near Julian, William Heise County Park is among the most convenient campgrounds. It’s about a 10-minute drive from the stores and eateries on Main Street. It’s a lovely park with various camping (tent, camper, group tent, cabins) and hiking opportunities.

William Heise County Park Campground is located south of Julian in the northern extremity of the Laguna Mountain Range. This 929-acre park is set in a forest of oak, pine, and cedar. Cedar Creek runs through the campground. In the winter the campground can have snow.

William Heise County Park Campground has trailer and RV sites (20 with electrical hook-ups), a separate tent camping area with 42 sites and a group tent-camping area. They also have cabins. Many of the sites in the RV loop are side-by-side while some are well-separated from one another.

Tip: Southern California is an excellent place to watch meteor showers and other notable astronomy events.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

When is the best time to Visit Julian?

Fall is the most prominent time in the town of Julian and both visitors as well as California locals make there way up to this town to experience the ambiance the city has to offer. In the autumn, the annual Julian Fall Apple Harvest commences which means a good time to visit would be mid-September to mid-November when fall is in swing.

After that, even though this is in Southern California, since it is in the mountains it snows in the winter here. Obviously, the snow lasts longer in the elevated areas but this may affect some of the roadways as well so that is good to keep in mind if visiting in the winter.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Make sure to check weather conditions before heading to Julian because in the winter months the snowfall may vary. Also, snowstorms in Southern California are hard to track so it is smart to check reports.

The ways to get to Julian is by car and though it may be a small town having a good mode of transportation would be key when visiting. Overall, Julian is a gem of a small town that is great to visit because of the little tourism and amazing activities.

Worth Pondering…

There are not many places in the world where you can get to the beach in an hour, the desert in two hours, and snowboarding or skiing in three hours. You can do all that in California.

—Alex Pettyfer

On This Day: Gold Found at Sutter’s Mill

January 24: Gold!

California’s most famous gold rush dates to the morning of January 24, 1848 when James Marshall made his customary inspection of the sawmill he was building for John Sutter. During the previous night, Marshall had diverted water through the mill’s tailrace to wash away loose dirt and gravel and on that fateful day he noticed some shining flecks of metal left behind by the running water.

He picked them up and showed them to his crew and, as he later told the story: “My eye was caught by something shining in the bottom of the ditch. . . . I reached my hand down and picked it up; it made my heart thump, for I was certain it was gold. . . Then I saw another.”

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

James Wilson Marshall, a foreman at John Sutter’s lumber mill near Coloma, California was on the edge of the American River when he spotted something glittering in the sun on January 24, 1848. When he brought the shiny flakes to his boss, Sutter ordered him to be quiet while they secretly tested the material.

As Sutter feared, Marshall had found gold. The two men did not know it yet but California’s fabled Gold Rush was about to explode and California and the United States would change forever.

Sutter was dismayed because he owned nearly 50,000 acres and knew that his dreams of an agricultural empire would be ruined if crazed gold prospectors rushed in and overran his property. Despite all his efforts at secrecy, however, rumors started spreading.

Men began to write letters; by the summer newspapers on the East Coast were announcing the news and in an address to Congress on December 5, 1848, President James Polk—a strong supporter of America’s Manifest Destiny—officially confirmed the discovery of gold in California helping to spur the Gold Rush and ensuring the acceleration of America’s westward expansion.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

California was still part of Mexico at the time Marshall discovered gold but Polk took care of that by acquiring California with the signing of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo that ended the Mexican-American War on February 2, 1848. At the end of the year Polk delivered his address to Congress and the California Gold Rush erupted the next year as 90,000 49ers rushed to California in 1849 looking for the gold Polk confirmed was there. California was admitted into the Union the next year as part of the Compromise of 1850.

Between 1848 and 1855 about 300,000 prospectors flooded into California, mostly Americans but tens of thousands also came from as far away as China, Hawaii, Europe, Peru, and Australia. It is estimated they recovered over $7 billion in gold. It all began with that January 24, 1848 discovery by Marshall, a find that touched off an irresistible gold fever that made men abandon what they were doing and head off to California to strike it rich.

Today, a few mines and the remains of several boom towns have been preserved in a variety of state parks. Most of them, including the Marshall Gold Discovery site, the fabulous Empire Mine, the historic town of Columbia, the rich gold deposits at Plumas Eureka, and the controversial hydraulic mining pits at Malakoff Diggins are located in or near the Mother Lode region of the central Sierra Nevada foothills.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The riverfront embarcadero and commercial district of the Gold Rush preserved at Old Sacramento teemed with activity as would-be miners disembarked from riverboats and regrouped before setting out for the Mother Lode. Outfitters and other merchants there thrived on the gold trade portrayed in the re-created Huntington & Hopkins Hardware Store. The mining boom that Captain John Sutter himself set in motion nearly destroyed his Nuevo Helvetia agricultural empire headquartered at Sutter’s Fort. A portion of his Mexican land grant became the bustling Gold Rush boomtown of Sacramento.

While gold-seekers were pouring through Sacramento and into the Sierra, deposits of the precious metal were also discovered in the Klamath Mountains of northwest California. Today, ruins of the historic town of Shasta and the Chinese temple at Weaverville Joss House State Historic Park recall the days of the Klamath gold rush.

In combination, the Mother Lode and the Klamath gold fields produced the modern-day equivalent of more than $25 billion in gold before the turn of the century with operations continuing at Empire Mine until as late as 1956.

Placerville © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Between the 1860s and the turn of the century, prospectors found gold in a number of locations in California. One of the Wests largest authentic ghost towns is Bodie in the eastern Sierra Nevada, now a state historic park that preserves the abandoned buildings of the rough-and-tumble mining town that sprang up in response to a gold strike in 1877.

In Southern California, three historic gold mining areas lie within the state parks. Park headquarters at Red Rock Canyon State Park is on the site of what was once an important community in a region that produced several million dollars in gold primarily in the 1890s -including one 14-ounce nugget.

At Cuyamaca Rancho State Park, visitors can tour the remains of the Stonewall Mine which produced $2 million worth of gold between 1870 and 1892.

At Picacho State Recreation Area on the lower Colorado River, visitors can view Picacho Mill, the last visible remnant of Picacho, a gold mining community that boasted a population of 2,500 in 1904.

Angels Camp © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Check out these articles to learn more:

Worth Pondering…

All the gold in California

Is in the bank in the middle of Beverly Hills

In somebody else’s name.

So if you’re dreamin’ about California,

It don’t matter at all where you’ve played before.

California’s a brand-new game.

Tryin’ to be a hero, winding up a zero,

Can scar a man forever right down to your soul.

Living on the spotlight can kill a man outright

‘Cause everything that glitters is not gold.

—written by Larry Gatlin and recorded by Larry Gatlin & the Gatlin Brothers Band in 1979 

20 Scenic Road Trips to Take This Summer in Every Part of America

No matter where you are, an unforgettable road trip is never far away

Sometimes it’s more about the journey than the destination. For these 20 road trips, that is definitely true.

America is one of the most geographically diverse countries in the world, it is home to mountains, prairies, canyons, deserts, lakes, beaches, forests, and just about any natural landscape you can imagine. If you like road trips, a lot of these incredible landscapes are accessible by road with tons of sights to see and other adventures waiting around each bend. If you’re not a fan of road trips, well, this list might change your mind.

Every corner of the United States has some incredible sights to see and whether you’re looking for history, nature, interesting small towns, or anything in between, there’s a scenic drive for you. Take advantage of the warm weather and check out these summertime drives; the adventures won’t disappoint.

Best Scenic Road Trips in the Northwest

Spirit River Memorial Highway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Washington: Spirit Lake Memorial Highway 

The Spirit Lake Memorial Highway is the only scenic byway in the U.S. that penetrates a fresh volcanic blast zone. This scenic and historic route is a 52-mile journey into the scene of epic destruction that Mount St. Helens caused when it erupted on May 18, 1980. Along the route are four distinct interpretive and tour centers: Silver Lake, Hoffstadt Bluffs, the Weyerhaeuser Forest Learning Center, and Johnston Ridge. Each one tells a different part of the story from the natural history before the May 1980 eruption, the aftermath, reforestation efforts, and the natural recovery of plants and animals. 

Best Scenic Road Trips in the Northeast

Trapp Family Lodge © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Vermont: Green Mountain Byway

The Green Mountain Byway travels from Stowe to Waterbury between mountain ridges. Little River, Smugglers Notch, Waterbury Center state parks, and Mount Mansfield and Putnam state forests are along the route. Stowe is a premier four-season resort destination particularly known for its alpine and Nordic recreation, mountain biking, and hiking. Here, the Von Trapp family (of Sound of Music fame) attracted worldwide attention more than 50 years ago. Along with beautiful scenery, a large variety of attractions for all ages and tastes including Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory, Cold Hollow Cider Mill, and Vermont Ski Museum.

Ocean Drive © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Rhode Island: Ocean Drive

This loop around the island’s coast is full of seaside views, charm, and historic homes to excite the imagination. Along Harrison and Ocean Avenues, a plethora of 1865-1914 mansions from the Gilded Age come into view that were once summer homes and getaways for the financially and socially elite but now many of the Newport Mansions are open to public tours. For outdoor fun, stop at Brenton Point State Park to enjoy the water or a nice picnic spread.

Lancaster County Amish Country Drive © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Pennsylvania: Lancaster County Amish Country Drive

A visit to Amish country is a worthwhile addition to your summer drive plans. When all else fails and you’re looking for the idyllic peacefulness of a pure country drive, circle around the city of Lancaster and see some of the gloriously beautiful landscapes. Unplug and experience communities of people who aren’t affected by the hustle and bustle of modern life, instead keeping their treasured traditions alive and strong to this day.

Best Scenic Road Trips in the Midwest

Heritage Trail Driving Tour © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Indiana: Heritage Trail Driving Tour

The 90-mile Heritage Trail Driving Tour winds through Amish Country taking you down rural highways, country lanes, and charming main streets. Stop in Shipshewana to stroll the shop-lined streets where you’ll find handcrafted items, baked goods, and the Midwest’s largest flea market. Enjoy a delightful Amish meal at Das Dutchman Essenhaus in Middlebury or Amish Acres in Nappanee.

Peter Norbeck Scenic Drive © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

South Dakota: Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway

Embracing South Dakota’s pastoral landscapes, the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway winds its way from Rapid City terminating at Mount Rushmore. This 70-mile route graces travelers with landmarks like the intriguing Needles Eye and the monumental Rushmore Presidents. En route, small towns like Keystone and Custer dot the journey lending aid if a leg stretch is overdue. Amidst this, Sylvan Lake, a man-made marvel provides a serene break. Its creation is attributed to Peter Norbeck and his predecessors. Norbeck was the byway’s namesake as well as South Dakota’s former governor in the early 20th century. Lastly, the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally the first week in August (August 4-13, 2023) showcases the byway’s lively side, drawing motor enthusiasts nationwide.

Amish Country Byway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Ohio: Amish Country Byway

On a map, routes 39, 62, 515, and 60 form a sort of eyeglasses shape throughout Holmes County in Ohio. That’s fitting because exploring these four roads is a great way to explore Amish Country. These routes make up the Amish Country Scenic Byway, designated in June 2002 as a National Scenic Byway. These 72 miles of roadways are recognized for their unique cultural and historic significance. Along these roadways, you will be treated to the typical, yet breathtaking sights of Amish Country: teams of huge, blonde Belgians pulling wagons of hay, farmers working in the fields, and of course, beautiful views of lush, green farmland, large white houses, and red barns.

Best Scenic Road Trips in the Southwest

Gold Rush Highway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

California: Gold Rush Highway

Follow in the footsteps of miners and prospectors through California’s Gold Country along Highway 49—a road named after the gold seekers or 49ers who made their way to the state during the 1849 Gold Rush. Plan for five days to provide time to strike its rich panning for gold in the region’s rivers. You’ll also want to spend time exploring the rocky meadows and pine-covered foothills of the Sierra Nevada.

Apache Trail © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Arizona: Apache Trail

This historic road covers some of the most rugged terrains in Arizona. The land surrounding the road rises steeply to the north to form the Four Peaks Wilderness Area and to the south to form the Superstition Wilderness Area. Steep-sided canyons, rock outcroppings, and magnificent geologic formations are all along the road. Water played a major role in creating the beauty of the area, and it also provides numerous recreation opportunities. Fish Creek Canyon is perhaps the most awe-inspiring section. The road hangs on the side of this high-walled canyon and winds its way along tremendous precipices that sink sheer for hundreds of feet below.

Scenic Byway 12 © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Utah: Scenic Byway 12

An All-American Road, Highway 12 is one of the most scenic highways in America. It winds through canyons, red rock cliffs, pine and aspen forests, alpine mountains, national parks, state parks, a national monument, and quaint rural towns. On your 119 mile drive, you’ll discover the vast Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument and the beauty of Boulder Mountain.

Palms to Pines Highway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

California: Palms to Pines Highway

The Coachella Valley is known for its beautiful scenery and warm weather but just a few miles to the south is a scenic drive that offers high mountain wilderness—a two-hour journey (to Mountain Center) provided you don’t stop to admire the gorgeous sights along the way. Palm trees give way to piñon pines and firs as the byway climbs into Santa Rosa and the San Jacinto Mountains National Monument.

Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Arizona: Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road 

The Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road was designated by the Arizona Department of Transportation in 1984. This route follows US 89A through the scenic canyon made popular in the 1920s when it was discovered by Hollywood. This scenic road offers a rare opportunity to study a variety of elements within a short distance. The road traverses seven major plant communities as a result of elevation changes, temperature variation, and precipitation. It begins near the town of Sedona and runs in a northerly direction through Oak Creek Canyon to the top of the Mogollon Rim, traveling areas rich with geologic formations similar to the Grand Canyon

Scenic Highway 28 © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

New Mexico: Scenic Highway 28

Roughly paralleling the Rio Grande River, New Mexico Highway 28 travels from Mesilla to Canutillo (at the New Mexico-Texas state line). Along the drive, the Stahmann Farms pecan trees have grown over the roadway making for a sight straight out of a fairytale. Highway 28 is also home to Chopes Bar & Café, known for its tasty New Mexican food. Rio Grande Winery Vineyard & Winery and La Viña Winery are also hot spots along the roadway and very much a testament to New Mexico’s thriving, the centuries-old wine industry.

La Sal Mountain Scenic Loop © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Utah: La Sal Mountain Loop

From the alpine ridges of the La Sal Mountains to the red rock desert and sandstone pinnacles of Castle Rock, this back road is an adventure. This 60-mile route is paved and starts about 8 miles south of Moab off US-191 and loops through the mountains down to Castle Valley and SR 128 where it follows the Colorado River back to Moab. It takes about 3 hours to complete this drive. The narrow winding road while suitable for passenger cars is not suitable for large RVs. The La Sals are the most photographed mountain range in Utah, providing a dramatic background to the red rock mesas, buttes, and arches below.

Best Scenic Road Trips in the Southeast

Colonial Parkway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Virginia: Colonial Parkway

The Colonial Parkway, a scenic roadway that spans 23 miles serves as a time machine transporting visitors to the colonial era of Virginia. Connecting three significant historic sites, Jamestown, Williamsburg, and Yorktown, this picturesque drive offers a glimpse into the region’s rich history and cultural heritage. The Colonial Parkway winds along the Virginia Peninsula linking three pivotal sites in American history. This well-preserved roadway takes travelers on a journey through time, immersing them in the story of America’s colonial beginnings. With its carefully designed architecture, stunning views of the James River, and access to iconic landmarks, the Colonial Parkway provides a unique opportunity to explore Virginia’s colonial heritage and gain a deeper understanding of the nation’s roots.

Jim Beam American Stillhouse © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Kentucky: Lincoln Heritage Scenic Highway

Here’s a must-do for every American history buff. Explore the land of Honest Abe’s youth as well as several significant Civil War sites. Learn what Lincoln’s log cabin life was really like at the Lincoln Museum in Hodgenville, Kentucky; then visit Lincoln’s birthplace and the original Lincoln Memorial at the Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historic Park. If you’re so inclined, you can pair these educational adventures with a stop or two at one of the many breweries and distilleries the area is famous for such as Jim Beam’s American Stillhouse.

Creole Nature Trail © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Louisiana: Creole Nature Trail

One place in Southwest Louisiana that never ceases to amaze is the Creole Nature Trail, a 180-miles-long scenic byway where natural wonderlands abound. Affectionately known as Louisiana’s Outback, the Creole Nature Trail is a journey into one of America’s Last Great Wildernesses. The Creole Nature Trail features four wildlife refuges, three national and one state: Sabine National Wildlife Refuge, Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge, Lacassine National Wildlife Refuge, and Rockefeller Refuge While there are five entrances to the Creole Nature Trail, the most popular entrances are off I-10 in Sulphur (Exit 20) and just east of Lake Charles at Louisiana Highway 397 (Exit 36).

Newfound Gap Road © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Tennessee: Newfound Gap Road

When you get on Newfound Gap, you won’t believe the wealth of overlooks, picnic areas, and trails to explore. Take this spectacular road through Great Smoky Mountains National Park to experience the pristine wilderness that drives millions of Americans to this wildly popular park year after year. The views get more and more breathtaking, putting a lifetime’s worth of astonishing natural eye candy into a couple gallons of driving.

Blue Ridge Parkway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

North Carolina and Virginia: Blue Ridge Parkway

A meandering road snaking for 469 miles along the crest of Blue Ridge Mountains from Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia, the Blue Ridge Parkway provides access to more than 100 trailheads and over 300 miles of trails. It passes through a range of habitats that support more plant species than any other park in the country: over 4,000 species of plants, 2,000 kinds of fungi, 500 types of mosses and lichens, and the most varieties of salamanders anywhere in the world.

Skyline Drive © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Virginia: Skyline Drive

This stunning drive runs a length of 105 miles north and south through Shenandoah National Park along the crest of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Despite its lower latitude, in the winter driving conditions can be rather sketchy, with its altitude bringing in more snow, ice, and cold.

In the summer this ice gives way to views of green rising high out of the Shenandoah Valley. While driving through the elevated winding road, you’ll feel tucked away in the green forest at the top of the ridge and then be rewarded with expansive views of the valley far below at the many scenic viewpoints along the road. In the fall and winter, though, you’ll see even less crowds and even better colors.

Bayou Teche © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Louisiana: Bayou Teche Byway

For a road trip that boasts both scenery and history, this is the perfect route. From its southernmost point in Morgan City to its northern end in Arnaudville, the byway crosses beautiful marshes and fields of sugar cane connecting small towns with well-preserved historic districts. Cafés and dance halls serve up Cajun and zydeco music along with boiled crawfish and étouffée.

Road trip planning

Road trips take a little planning. Here are a few tips that will help make your scenic road trip a success:

Worth Pondering…

The journey not the arrival matters.

—T. S. Eliot

10 Scenic Drives that are Not National Scenic Byways…but should be

What exactly do you mean by a “scenic” drive?

There’s nothing quite like packing up your car or recreation vehicle and heading out onto the open road. With over four million miles of roads crisscrossing the country, how do you choose where to travel?

In much the same way Congress set aside lands to be protected as national parks, the Department of Transportation has designated a network of spectacular drives that are protected as part of America’s Byways collection. Currently, the collection contains 184 National Scenic Byways and All-American Roads in 48 states. To become part of America’s Byways collection, a road must-have features that don’t exist anywhere else in the United States and be unique and important enough to be destinations unto themselves.

Here are 10 scenic and culturally significant roadways in America that have not been designated as National Scenic Byways…but should be.

Gold Rush Highway winds through Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Gold Rush Highway

Location: California

Length: 295 miles

Gold Rush Highway through Angels Camp © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Follow in the footsteps of miners and prospectors through California’s Gold Country along Highway 49—a road named after the gold seekers or “49ers” who made their way to the state during the 1849 Gold Rush. Plan for five days to provide time to strike its rich panning for gold in the region’s rivers. You’ll also want to spend time exploring the rocky meadows and pine-covered foothills of the Sierra Nevada. 

More on scenic byways: Get in your RV and Go! Scenic Drives in America

Green Mountain Byway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Green Mountain Byway

Location: Vermont

Length: 71 miles

Cold Hollow Cider Mill © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Green Mountain Byway travels from Stowe to Waterbury between mountain ridges. Little River, Smugglers Notch, Waterbury Center state parks, and Mount Mansfield and Putnam state forests are along the route. Stowe is a premier four-season resort destination particularly known for its alpine and Nordic recreation, mountain biking, and hiking. Here, the Von Trapp family (of Sound of Music fame) attracted worldwide attention more than 50 years ago. Along with beautiful scenery, a large variety of attractions for all ages and tastes including Ben & Jerry’s ice cream factory, Cold Hollow Cider Mill, and Vermont Ski Museum.

Heritage Driving Trail through Ligonier © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Heritage Driving Tour, Indiana

Location: Indiana

Amish Acres © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Length: 90 miles

The 90-mile Heritage Trail Driving Tour winds through Amish Country taking you down rural highways, country lanes, and charming main streets. Stop in Shipshewana to stroll the shop-lined streets where you’ll find handcrafted items, baked goods, and the Midwest’s largest flea market. Enjoy a delightful Amish meal at Das Dutchman Essenhaus in Middlebury or Amish Acres in Nappanee.

Apache Trail © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Apache Trail Historic Road

Location: Arizona

Length: 41 miles

Apache Trail © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

This historic road covers some of the most rugged terrains in Arizona. The land surrounding the road rises steeply to the north to form the Four Peaks Wilderness Area and to the south to form the Superstition Wilderness Area. Steep-sided canyons, rock outcroppings, and magnificent geologic formations are all along the road. Water played a major role in creating the beauty of the area, and it also provides numerous recreation opportunities. Fish Creek Canyon is perhaps the most awe-inspiring section. The road hangs on the side of this high-walled canyon and winds its way along tremendous precipices that sink sheer for hundreds of feet below.

Travel Advisory: In 2019, the Woodbury Fire burned several areas on the Apache Trail, and a 7-mile section of the road from Fish Creek Hill Overlook (milepost 222) to Apache Lake Marina (Milepost 229) remains closed. 

More on scenic byways: America’s 10 Best Scenic Byways for your Next Road Trip

Spirit Lake Memorial Highway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Spirit Lake Memorial Highway

Location: Washington

Length: 52 miles

Mount St. Helens © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Spirit Lake Memorial Highway is the only scenic byway in the U.S. that penetrates a fresh volcanic blast zone. This scenic and historic route is a 52-mile journey into the scene of epic destruction that Mount St. Helens caused when it erupted on May 18, 1980. Along the route are four distinct interpretive and tour centers: Silver Lake, Hoffstadt Bluffs, the Weyerhaeuser Forest Learning Center, and Johnston Ridge. Each one tells a different part of the story from the natural history before the May 1980 eruption, the aftermath, reforestation efforts, and the natural recovery of plants and animals. 

Palms to Pines Highway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Palms to Pines Highway

Location: California

Length: 67 miles

Palms to Pines Highway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Coachella Valley is known for its beautiful scenery and warm weather but just a few miles to the south is a scenic drive that offers high mountain wilderness—a two-hour journey (to Mountain Center) provided you don’t stop to admire the gorgeous sights along the way. Palm trees give way to piñon pines and firs as the byway climb into Santa Rosa and the San Jacinto Mountains National Monument.

Oak Creek Canyon

Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road

Location: Arizona

Length: 14.5 miles

Oak Creek Canyon © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Sedona-Oak Creek Canyon Scenic Road was designated by the Arizona Department of Transportation in 1984. This route follows US 89A through the scenic canyon made popular in the 1920s when it was discovered by Hollywood. This scenic road offers a rare opportunity to study a variety of elements within a short distance. The road traverses seven major plant communities as a result of elevation changes, temperature variation, and precipitation. It begins near the town of Sedona, and runs in a northerly direction through Oak Creek Canyon to the top of the Mogollon Rim, traveling areas rich with geologic formations similar to the Grand Canyon.

More on scenic byways: Take the Exit Ramp to Adventure & Scenic Drives

Mesilla © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Scenic Highway 28

Location: New Mexico

Length: 28 miles

Rio Grande Winery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Roughly paralleling the Rio Grande River, New Mexico Highway 28 travels from Mesilla to Canutillo (at the New Mexico-Texas state line). Along the drive, the Stahmann Farms pecan trees have grown over the roadway making for a sight straight out of a fairytale. Highway 28 is also home to Chopes Bar & Café, known for its tasty New Mexican food. Rio Grande Winery Vineyard & Winery and La Viña Winery are also hot spots along the roadway and very much a testament to New Mexico’s thriving, the centuries-old wine industry.

La Sal Mountain Loop © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

La Sal Mountain Loop

Location: Utah

Length: 60 miles

La Sal Mountain Loop © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From the alpine ridges of the La Sal Mountains to the red rock desert and sandstone pinnacles of Castle Rock, this back road is an adventure. This 60-mile route is paved and starts about 8 miles south of Moab off US-191 and loops through the mountains down to Castle Valley and SR 128 where it follows the Colorado River back to Moab. It takes about 3 hours to complete this drive. The narrow winding road while suitable for passenger cars is not suitable for large RVs. The La Sals are the most photographed mountain range in Utah, providing a dramatic background to the red rock mesas, buttes, and arches below.

Ajo Scenic Loop © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Ajo Scenic Loop

Location: Arizona

Length: 10 miles

Ajo Scenic Loop © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

With its rich tradition as a former copper mining hub, Ajo is a casual town with relaxed charm. Enjoy its mild climate, low humidity, and clear skies. Take in the historic Spanish Colonial Revival architecture in the Downtown Historic District, Sonoran Desert flora and fauna, and panoramic views. Ajo is surrounded by 12 million acres of public and tribal land waiting to be explored. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge offer expansive hiking, camping, and birding places.

More on scenic byways: America’s 10 Best Scenic Byways for a Fall Road Trip

Ajo Historic Plaza © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

This 10.4-mile-long scenic drive starts at the Historic Plaza in downtown Ajo and loops around the gigantic open pit copper mine, then through a wonderland of saguaro, organ pipe, and other diverse cacti and back to downtown Ajo where you started. The scenic loop is mostly gravel and travels through BLM land and is popular for boondocking.

Worth Pondering…

Our four simple rules: No Interstates, no amusement parks, no five-star accommodations, and no franchise food (two words which do not belong in the same sentence!)

—Loren Eyrich, editor/publisher Two-Lane Roads

Apples and Pies Just Part of Julian’s Appeal

Julian is an old gold mining town, now famous for its apples and apple pies

While many boomtowns eventually became ghost towns, Julian had more to offer than mining.

In the lush rolling hills and mountains, just 60 miles northeast of San Diego, is the small town of Julian. It’s not on the way to anywhere for most folk, but if you’re even close it’s well worth visiting for a day or two.

Confederated, veterans from Georgia headed west to seek their fortunes in a new, mostly unsettled land. Among these were cousins, Drue Bailey and Mike Julian, who found a lush meadow between the Volcan Mountains and the Cuyamacas to their liking.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The town was named Julian, in honor of Mike Julian, who later was elected San Diego County Assessor. The town was never large; at the most, it boasted a population of about 600. Rumor has it that Julian almost became San Diego’s county seat.

A cattleman, Fred Coleman, found the first fleck of gold in a creek in early 1870. It was San Diego’s first and only gold rush. The gold rush was short-lived, lasting from 1870 until around 1900 with some mining still later on. But the pioneers stayed and began farming the rich land.

Related: The 10 Best Day Trips in Southern California

While many crops were planted and animals pastured, Julian proved to be a fine place to grow apples. Julian apples, “Twenty-one varieties of well-grown and carefully selected apples”, received the Bronze Wilder Medal, a top honor, from the American Pomological Society at the 1907 Tri-centennial Exposition held in Jamestown, Virginia.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Apples continue to be produced in Julian. Their sweet, fresh flavor lures thousands to the mountains each fall when visitors will find fruit stands overflowing with crisp fruit, homemade cider, and other delicacies and enjoy U-picking.

Apple picking season in Julian arrives in early September and lasts until mid-October. But even if your trip doesn’t coincide with the harvest you can still enjoy the spoils: there’s no shortage of bakeries in town and everyone you ask will have a personal favorite.

The biggest name in town (and possibly in the West) is Julian Pie Company. Along with the most widely distributed apple pie throughout Southern California, they carry more than 20 pie varieties, apple cider donuts, apple nut bread, and “apple memories,” bits of extra pie crust cut out into hearts that are perfect to snack on during the ride home.

Mom’s Pie House © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

At Mom’s Pie House, you’ll find a laundry list of pie options and other equally delightful confectionary goodness but not to be missed are their apple dumplings loaded with brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg and baked in cream cheese to absolute perfection.

Related: The Charms of Julian

An unassuming spot right off the main drag, Apple Alley Bakery turns out a spectacular apple pecan pie with a crunchy crumb topping plus a killer lunch special that includes your choice of a half sandwich and a side of soup or salad and a slice of pie for dessert.

Also noteworthy, Julian Cafe and Bakery’s boysenberry-apple is the perfect mix of sweet and tart, and Juliantla Chocolate Boutique covers cinnamon-scented caramelized apples in a flaky crust that’s also completely vegan.

Julian is an official California Historical Landmark, meaning that any new development must adhere to certain guidelines that preserve the town’s architectural integrity. Once you’re settled in, get your bearings with a self-guided walking tour and explore Julian Town Hall, historical homes, and the Pioneer Cemetery as well as the Julian Gold Rush Hotel, the oldest operating hotel in Southern California and one of the first businesses in San Diego County to be owned and operated by African Americans.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

One of the longest-running mining operations in town, The Eagle Mine is a popular spot to take a tour and try your hand at panning for gold as they did in the olden days. Julian Mining Company also has all your gold-panning needs covered, plus gem mining, tomahawk throwing, and train rides.

Related: Where is the Best Apple Pie in America?

It’s also worth checking out the outstanding collection of historical artifacts at the Julian Pioneer Museum where you can learn about how local Indigenous groups and pioneer settlers lived and worked as well as The Barn Vintage Marketplace just outside town in Wynola, a great spot to shop for vintage keepsakes, furniture, and souvenirs. Be sure to say hello to the sweet emus who call the latter home.

You won’t be leaving this little town hungry and for a trip down memory lane, Miner’s Diner is the spot. Operated within the Historic Levi & Co. building (the first brick building erected in Julian, 1885) the historic significance doesn’t stop there.

From the eclectic mix of vintage signage to old prescription medications which line the shelves to the numerous photos of the town and the building, customers receive an understanding and experience of old Julian which is available nowhere else.

Julian © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Dating back to 1929, this charming vintage soda shop has classic diner fare on deck—stacks of pancakes, bacon, and eggs, burgers, dogs, and melts included—plus a “Fun Stuff” menu where you’ll find old-timey treats like phosphate soda, ice cream floats, thick shakes and malts, banana splits, and, yes, apple pie.

Related: Julian Is World Famous For Apple Pies

Established in 1977, the California Wolf Center is home to several gray wolf packs including one of the rarest and most endangered species, the Mexican gray wolf. Reservations are required to visit so schedule one of three different tours to learn about wolf conservation and meet with the wolf packs.

Worth Pondering…

Cut my pie into four pieces, I don’t think I could eat eight.

―Yogi Berra

A Braying Good Time in Oatman

Oatman prides itself on maintaining a Wild West feel, down to the wooden sidewalks, staged shootouts, and kitschy shops. (You can even adopt a wild burro and take it home!)

You’ve got to see Oatman to believe it. This tiny town is in a rugged area carved out of the wilderness by determined miners and now populated by more wild burros than people.

On the road to Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

They know how to have fun in Oatman where good-humored shops line the street and the furriest residents—small donkeys descended from miners’ beasts of burden—contribute to the annual fall Burro Biskit Toss.

Burros on the road to Oatman

More than 500,000 visitors are drawn annually to Oatman’s gold mine history as well as the legend of its namesake. Olive Oatman is entrenched in western lore as a woman who was kidnapped by an Indian tribe then sold to a friendly local tribe before being freed to her family near what became Oatman.

On Route 66 between Kingman and Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The town of Oatman is 28 miles southwest of Kingman along old Route 66. This town in the Black Mountains of Mohave County was founded back in 1915. Two miners discovered gold in the nearby hills and put the place on the map. By 1915 these two miners pulled out over $10 million worth of gold in a short time. That would be about a quarter of a billion dollars in today’s dollars. Oatman grew to nearly four thousand people within the year.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But the town has a very sad tale that accounts for its name. Pioneers from the east looking for a new life came west in search of a better life. One such pioneering family was the Oatmans from Illinois. Royce and Mary Ann Oatman had seven children and one on the way as Mary Ann was pregnant. As their wagon train made its way toward Maricopa Wells along the Southern Emigrant Trail, it was approached by Yavapai Indians. Royce Oatman was prepared to give some supplies but when he refused to give the Yavapai more of their already limited supplies, the family was massacred.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Only their son, Lorenzo, and two daughters, Olive and Mary Ann, survived. Believing the boy to be dead, the Yavapai stole the Oatman’s possessions as well as the two girls as slaves. Mary Ann later died in captivity but Olive survived and was reunited with her brother in 1856 at Fort Yuma. In honor of the family that lost their dream for a better life, the village of Oatman was named for them

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The area surrounding present-day Oatman was mined for decades before the two miners showed up in 1915. Back in 1863, Johnny Moss discovered gold in the Black Mountains and staked a couple claims. One, he named after himself—a very thoughtful choice—and the other in memory of Olive Oatman.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

As with most small mining communities, this area had its ups and downs, depending on the prices for minerals and the cost of getting them to market. But in 1915, that large deposit of gold was discovered and Oatman was on the map as the largest producer of gold in the American West.

By the 1960s, the boom had gone bust and Oatman was nearly deserted. So what to do with an old mining camp? Why not make it a tourist attraction?

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

According to visitarizona.com, more than 500,000 visitors are drawn annually to Oatman’s gold mine history as well as the legend of its namesake. For a village, that’s a lot of people walking up and down the streets. Actually, when visiting most people walk along wooden sidewalks—just like they did way back when.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But when the burros come visiting most anything goes. The burros that live in the nearby hills are a major calling card for Oatman. They are everywhere—and I mean everywhere. The early miners used burros to carry their belongings as they went from one gold strike to hopefully, the next. Being a miner was a lonely business. Often, when a miner died alone, the burro simply wandered off. Over time, the burros thrived in the hills near Oatman. The burros strut along the streets, brush up against vehicles, and bray at anyone who will listen.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman is such a tourist destination that back in 1939 Clark Gable and Carole Lombard allegedly honeymooned at the 1902 two-story adobe Oatman Hotel after marrying in nearby Kingman. It is no longer an actual hotel but tourists can eat at the first-floor restaurant or have a drink at the bar before visiting the museum on the second floor where the lovebirds spent their wedding night. Some say the lovebirds’ spirits as well as other former lodgers still vacation there. The hotel is the oldest two-story adobe building in Mohave County.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman has been used as a backdrop in numerous films, too. There’s “How the West was Won” (1962), “Roadhouse 66” (1984) and “Killer Holiday” (2013).

There are numerous shops along the main street and some of the activities offered during the year include the Great Oatman Bed Race in January, the sidewalk egg frying contest on July 4, and the Christmas Bush Decorating held in December.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

We stayed a few hours, wandering here and there. We patted the burros and made sure that each store saw our feet. We crawled into a pub or two, as well. One does get thirsty wandering a village.

Oatman © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Oatman is surrounded by Bureau of Land Management wilderness which is also home to desert bighorn sheep. Outdoor activities include hiking, camping, hunting, photography, and rock climbing.

When in this part of Arizona (it really isn’t that far), take some time and visit Oatman. You’ll have a braying good time.

Worth Pondering…

So many ghosts upon the road,
My eyes I swear are playing tricks;
And a voice I hear, it’s Tom Joad,
Near Oatman on Route 66.

—Dave MacLennan

Gold Country Wineries

You are in a great place when it is the site of the California Gold Rush

The discovery of gold in 1848 led to the establishment of hundreds of instant mining towns along the western foothills of the Sierra Nevada.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Most mining camps were nothing more than temporary encampments established where a section of a creek was panned or sluiced until the gold ran out. Permanent towns developed in areas where more extensive operations spent decades tunneling deep into the hills. Many of these historic and picturesque towns still exist, linked by California Highway 49, the Gold Rush Trail.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The original mining-era buildings in these towns are now home to unique shops—but my interest lay elsewhere, in the gold mining history of these towns and the robust wines of the region.

Angels Camp © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Nestled in these foothills is the unique wine district of Gold Country. Touring the unique wineries along historical Highway 49 took us back in time. The majority of the area still looks stuck in gold rush times, but that doesn’t mean that it doesn’t produce sophisticated wines perfect for the modern-day wine enthusiast.

Jackson Rancheria RV Resort © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Using Far Horizon 49er Village RV Resort in Plymouth and Jackson Rancheria RV Resort in Jackson as our home bases, we explored the Gold Rush Trail and Gold Country wineries along California Highway 49.

Gold country has always been audacious and rip-roaring. No surprise—its wines are too. Most wines need time to rest, relax, and mature. And really, don’t we all?

For most of the above, we recently embarked on a tasting getaway in the foothills of Amador, El Dorado, and Calaveras counties where some vines date to the late 1800s and all the wines seem amplified with a flavorful dose of the American West.

Amador Flower Farm © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The most common adjectives for the area’s potent reds are big and robust—zinfandels, syrahs, and barberas that howl at the moon. Roughly 40 wineries in Amador County alone offer sips.

Amador County © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Amador County’s major wine area is the Shenandoah Valley in the northern part of the county near the small town of Plymouth. Stylistically, zinfandels from the Shenandoah Valley tend to be fuller, riper, and earthier with a characteristic dusty, dark berry fruit character, hints of cedar, anise and clove spice, and scents of raisin and chocolate.

Borjón Winery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Amador may have developed its reputation around Zinfandel, but Shenandoah Valley winemakers have branched out over the past 20 years and now produce wines from grape varietals originating in France, Italy, Portugal, and Spain, offering red, white, and rosé wines as well as excellent ports and dessert wines.

Cooper Vineyard © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Wineries within five or 10 minutes of Plymouth include Bella Piazza Winery, Terra d’Oro, Borjón Winery, Helwig Winery, and Cooper Vineyards, one of California’s most charming family wineries and a personal favorite.

Placerville © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

El Dorado County’s Grace Patriot Wines, a family-run business, provides not only award-winning wine, but history to the area. Their scenic property lies a few miles east of Placerville in an area known as Apple Hill for the abundant apple orchards scattered across the landscape. 

Grace Patriot Wines © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The winery and adjacent vineyards sit at an elevation of 3,000 feet, with an amazing eastward view over the Sierra Foothills and onwards toward the High Sierras on the far horizon. The tasting room looks out on to the patio and frames the timeless scene through its windows and the grand double doors through which visitors enter.

Grace Patriot Wines © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Our visit to the winery was memorable, as we had the opportunity to taste through their portfolio of wines. We took three of our favorite Grace Patriot wines back to our motorhome to enjoy during the winter.

Murphys © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

At the heart of Calaveras County’s wine country is an old-school Main Street with a new-world vibe. Unique to any other wine region, Murphys is a wine-lover’s dream with delightful tasting rooms and excellent restaurants in an historic downtown.  You can literally do wine country on foot in Murphys. There are over 25 wineries here and 20 of them have tasting rooms within walking distance from one another along Murphy’s Historic Main Street.

Murphys © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Picturesque vineyards and destination wineries are nestled in the rolling hills throughout the county.

Worth Pondering…

Let us celebrate the occasion with wine and sweet words,

―Plautus

Jackson: Heart of the Mother Lode

Jackson, California, is the historic heart of the Mother Lode and one of the finest Gold Rush towns along Highway 49. Explore the legendary Kennedy and Argonaut mines, stroll Civil War-era Main Street, discover award-winning Amador County wineries, and experience why Jackson makes the perfect basecamp for RV travelers exploring California’s Gold Country at a slower pace.

At the vibrant heart of the Mother Lode lies Jackson—a captivating destination destined to become one of your favorite stops and one you will find yourself returning to again and again.

Over its storied history, this quintessential Gold Country town earned a unique political distinction, serving as the county seat for two different California counties: first for Calaveras from 1850 to 1852 and subsequently for Amador since 1854.

Step into Jackson today and you will discover a treasure trove of historic attractions seamlessly blended with modern charm. It stands as the ultimate, time-tested basecamp for exploring Amador County, from the deep roots of its mining past to the rolling hills of the region’s acclaimed, world-class wine country.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Gold, grit, and government

The five “Gs” that built a legendary basecamp

Jackson is a town that gold, girls, gambling, gastronomic delights, and government have kept lively for well over a century and a half. Born in the frantic rush of 1848, it began simply as a natural crossing point where two forks of a foothill creek met. Gold seekers paused here on their way to the rich sandbars of the Mokelumne River and passed through again—either dead broke or newly rich—on their journey back to Stockton or Sacramento.

In the beginning, nobody stayed. But by January 1849, a 28-year-old French immigrant named Louis Tellier pitched his trading tent at the forks. When gold quartz was discovered nearby in 1851, the massive Oneida Mine opened two miles away. Even though the mining wasn’t right in town, Jackson quickly evolved into the region’s premier shopping and social hub. Miners flocked here, and the camp’s future was sealed.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Surviving the flames

How a rugged tent city evolved into a brick-and-mortar legacy

In 1851, three major milestones guaranteed Jackson was here to stay: it secured a post office, established stagecoach service, and snagged the Calaveras County seat. Local politicians immediately began pushing for independence and after a couple of failed secession attempts, Jackson officially incorporated. By 1854, when Amador County was carved out, Jackson narrowly defeated the town of Volcano to claim the new county seat.

With permanent status came permanent buildings. A French firm named Fixary & Co. built the town’s first brick structure in the summer of 1854, joining over 100 wooden frame buildings. Later that year, the thick-walled, two-story brick building that today serves as the Masonic Building was erected at the corner of Broadway and Water streets.

These brick structures proved to be lifesavers. A moderate fire swept through in 1855 but it was just a preview of the catastrophic inferno on August 23, 1862 which leveled almost the entire town. If you look closely behind the modern facades and window treatments in downtown Jackson today, you are looking at the resilient structures that rose directly from the ashes of that 1862 Great Fire—making it a perfect streetscape for a slow, afternoon stroll.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The deepest roots of the Mother Lode

Unlocking a fortune miles beneath the earth

While Jackson hosted quartz mines as early as the 1850s, striking it truly rich took time. Even the legendary Kennedy and Argonaut mines on the town’s outskirts weren’t consistently profitable for decades. The Kennedy didn’t strike sustained, high-grade gold veins until 1885 and the Argonaut required another ten years to hit its stride.

Once they tapped into those deep veins, however, the earth opened up. These two mines continuously disgorged massive fortunes, cementing Jackson’s place in mining history until World War II abruptly silenced the stamps. For modern RV travelers, these towering ruins offer a dramatic, slow-travel look back into the staggering scale of California’s gold industry.

Kennedy Mine, Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Deep mines and high elevations

Parking your rig at the doorstep of North America’s deepest gold mines

Nestled comfortably between 1,200 and 1,600 feet in the scenic Sierra Nevada foothills, Jackson serves as the ultimate basecamp for slow-traveling RVers. Don’t let its tranquil elevation fool you—this town packs a massive historical punch. As the definitive “Heart of the Mother Lode,” Jackson produced more than half of all the gold extracted from the entire region. It boasts the incredible distinction of being home to the deepest hard-rock mines on the North American continent: the legendary Argonaut and Kennedy mines, both plunging to dizzying depths of more than 5,000 feet straight down into the earth.

Amador County Wine Country © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The legacy of the Argonaut

Golden fortunes forged in the depths of the Pioneer Mine

Long before it became a titan of the Mother Lode, the Argonaut Mine began humble operations as the Pioneer Mine, discovered in 1850 by miners James Hager and William Tudor. However, its true era of dominance began in 1893 when it was acquired by the Argonaut Mining Company. As the mine’s success skyrocketed, infrastructure followed; by 1910, a state-of-the-art sawmill was added to the property to keep pace with the massive timber demands of deep-earth mining.

The Argonaut ultimately operated until World War II halted production in 1942. By the time the pumps fell silent, miners had pursued gold veins down a steep, 63-degree inclined shaft to a staggering vertical depth of 5,570 feet. This incredible engineering feat yielded more than $25 million in gold—a testament to the immense riches locked beneath the Amador County landscape.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Echoes of the 1922 Argonaut disaster

A poignant, slow-travel pause to honor the Mother Lode’s darkest day

For the slow traveler, exploring Jackson means connecting with the profound human stories etched into the land, including its deepest tragedies. The Argonaut Mine was the site of the Mother Lode’s most heartbreaking mining disaster. On August 27, 1922, an underground fire broke out, trapping 47 miners at the 3,500-foot level.

In a desperate bid to save their coworkers, miners near the surface poured water down the shaft. By dawn, townspeople and off-duty miners rushed to the scene to assist but the subterranean inferno took two and a half agonizing days to fully extinguish. Rescuers faced slow, perilous conditions but kept their hopes alive for weeks. Tragically, on September 18th, a canary lowered past a rescue bulkhead died instantly from toxic gases, signaling the grim reality below.

To reach the trapped men, rescue crews spent three weeks painstakingly reopening old tunnels connecting the Argonaut to the neighboring Kennedy Mine—tunnels that had been sealed following a separate fire in 1919. When they finally broke through, they discovered that none of the 47 miners had survived. Evidence later revealed that the men had succumbed to deadly carbon monoxide gas within hours of the fire’s outbreak, leaving an indelible mark on the history of California mining.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The mighty Kennedy Mine

Standing in the shadow of America’s deepest vertical shaft

The Argonaut and the Kennedy mines didn’t just extract ore; they played a dramatic, defining role in the economic evolution of California, collectively pouring an astonishing $105,268,760 in gold into the economy. Standing as the undisputed giant of the duo, the Kennedy Mine features a vertical shaft plunging 5,912 feet into the earth—making it the deepest vertical shaft in the United States. The innovative engineering required to reach these depths permanently changed hard-rock mining methods across the entire Mother Lode.

Few places in California capture the grit and scale of the Gold Rush quite like the Kennedy Gold Mine. From its initial discovery in 1856, it grew into one of the deepest gold mines in the entire world, operating continuously from the 1860s until a government order abruptly halted production in 1942 while the mine was still operating at peak capacity. By the time it closed, it had produced $34,280,000 in gold and left behind a staggering underground labyrinth of approximately 150 miles of tunnels, miles of water flumes, and massive surface equipment.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Exploring the Kennedy Mine surface grounds

A captivating, slow-travel stop for history buffs of all ages

For RV travelers practicing slow travel, a day spent at the Kennedy Mine is a must. Standing at the base of the towering original headframe provides a humbling sense of just how massive this industrial operation truly was. The grounds are rich with historic machinery and detailed interpretive signs that provide excellent context and they once even featured the famous Jackson Gate giant tailings wheels used to move mine waste over the hills.

Fascinating guided tours are available where knowledgeable local guides walk you through the mine’s history, demonstrating how ore was extracted and painting a vivid picture of daily life for the miners and their families. It is an educational stop that leaves both kids and adults deeply impressed. Even if you choose to skip the formal tour, walking the exterior paths at your own leisure is entirely worth the stop. Amid the weathered timber and rusted iron, California’s rich history feels remarkably close.t.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Liquid gold in the foothills

Trading mining pans for wine glasses in Amador County

Today, where raw gold once reigned supreme, a new kind of treasure flows through the Sierra Foothills. Over fifty wineries now dot the landscape, producing superb, world-class varietals that have earned Amador County international acclaim. For the slow traveler navigating the region by RV, the transition from rugged mining history to rolling agricultural beauty is spectacular.

The area’s undulating hillsides form a picturesque patchwork of tall golden grasses, ancient valley oaks, and thousands of acres of lush vineyards. This unique terroir—defined by sun-drenched slopes, warm daytime temperatures, and rich, volcanic, decomposed granite soils—creates the absolute perfect conditions for producing top-quality wine grapes. It is a sensory paradise that practically begs you to slow down, park the rig, and stay awhile.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From Bottileas to Jackson

Hunting down the quirky, bottle-strewn origins of a historic county seat

Long before it became the seat of Amador County, Jackson was a rugged pioneer watering hole known as Bottileas. Mexican and Chilean miners coined the quirky name after noticing the sheer volume of discarded bottles piling up around a local spring. Though not an actual Spanish word, “Bottileas” perfectly captured the camp’s frontier reality. Today, slow-traveling RVers can easily find a commemorative bronze plaque marking this original well just behind the historic National Hotel at the foot of Main Street.

The bottle-themed moniker didn’t last long, however. By the fall of 1849, the settlement was renamed Jackson Creek and eventually just Jackson. Historians still debate the true namesake: was it Alden Appolas Moore Jackson, a prominent local lawyer, or a patriotic nod to President Andrew Jackson? Whichever man claimed the honor, the new name anchored a resilient town that would thrive for over a century and a half.

Jackson Rancheria RV Resort © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Built to last

The Civil War-era resilience of Main Street

Like so many Gold Rush camps along California Highway 49, Jackson was leveled by a raging fire in 1862. Refusing to let their town turn to ash, the pioneers immediately rebuilt with brick and stone. Today, an impressive forty-two of those resilient, Civil War-era buildings still line Jackson’s Historic Main Street and its surrounding avenues. For slow travelers, this concentration of surviving 19th-century architecture offers one of the most authentic, living history walks in the entire Mother Lode.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The turn of the century

How a bustling mining hub transformed into an official city

By the turn of the 20th century, Jackson had grown into a thriving community of roughly 3,000 residents. The bustling hub boasted three churches, three newspapers, four hotels, and five boarding houses. Its robust local economy even featured dedicated cigar, macaroni, and candy factories, all supported by eight resident physicians and two dentists.

Solidifying its staying power, Jackson officially incorporated as a city in 1905. The community elected V.S. Garbarini—a celebrated local mechanical genius—as its very first mayor, alongside an energetic initial board of trustees that included George W. Brown, W.E. Kent, William Tam, and prominent Dispatch newspaper publisher William Penry.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Living history at the National Hotel

Grabbing a drink where Gold Rush miners once stood

For slow-traveling RVers looking to immerse themselves in local heritage, Jackson’s Historic Main Street delivers. Visitors can explore a vibrant stretch of boutique shops, eateries, and historic landmarks, anchored by the iconic National Hotel. Built in 1862, this landmark holds the title of one of California’s longest continuously operating hotels. Stepping inside—or booking a room to escape the rig for a night—is a masterclass in living history, complete with authentic antique furnishings and storied wooden floors.

Even if you aren’t spending the night, the hotel’s famous restaurant and saloon are essential stops. The tavern serves up hearty dishes in a setting that has barely changed in over a century, offering a perfect mid-day break from exploring. Because it remains a premier Gold Country destination, weekend reservations fill up months in advance—so if you want to experience waking up in 1862, be sure to plan your itinerary well ahead of time.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Luxury basecamp: Jackson Rancheria

Resort-style RV living just minutes from downtown

Located just two and a half miles east of the historic district off State Route 88, the Jackson Rancheria RV Resort is widely considered one of the premier big-rig parks in Northern California. It features 100 exceptionally level, concrete-padded sites surrounded by manicured lawns. Designed to accommodate everything from smaller vans to massive rigs, the park offers back-in spaces for up to 45 feet and pull-through options for up to 60 feet. Every site comes fully loaded with 20/30/50 amp hookups, free Wi-Fi, cable, and picnic tables.

The resort amenities expertly blend outdoor leisure with luxury convenience. Slow travelers can unwind by the pool and spa, practice on the 9-hole putting green, or utilize the dedicated dog park, walking trails, and modern laundry facilities. If you are looking for a change of pace, a free 5-minute shuttle connects you directly to the 24-hour casino action nearby. It is the ultimate combination of natural foothill serenity and resort-style comfort.

Jackson © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The serenity of St. Sava

A hilltop sanctuary celebrating Gold Country’s diverse roots

One of Jackson’s most unexpected landmarks is the St. Sava Serbian Orthodox Church, perched on a hill overlooking the town. Built in 1894, it stands as a testament to the diverse immigrant communities that shaped California’s Gold Country, particularly the Serbian miners who brought their deep faith and culture to the Mother Lode.

The church is visually stunning, featuring a bright white exterior topped by a striking red dome. Its peaceful hilltop setting offers visitors a quiet, reflective moment away from the busy downtown streets, alongside lovely views of the surrounding landscape. It serves as a beautiful reminder that Gold Country history is far more culturally diverse and layered than many travelers realize.

Walking through time

Why Jackson remains the enduring heart of the Mother Lode

The beautifully preserved, Civil War-era buildings lining Main Street are more than just a spectacular photo opportunity—they are a living archive of American history. As you wander downtown, look down: the sidewalks themselves are embedded with numerous historic bronze plaques, offering a self-guided chronicle of the businesses, characters, and frontier activities of days gone by.

Ultimately, Jackson is a destination that captures the true essence of slow travel. By weaving together a dramatic mining legacy, a vibrant cultural tapestry, and a thriving modern wine region, this town invites you to slow down and truly connect with the past. Located at the definitive heart of the Mother Lode, Jackson is bound to become one of your favorite stops—and one you will find yourself returning to again and again.

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in May 2020 and updated June 2026. Information reflects t was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.

Sutter Creek & Amador City: A Slow Journey Through Gold Country

Travel through Sutter Creek and Amador City in California’s Gold Country, two historic towns along Highway 49 that preserve the legacy of the Gold Rush era. From weathered mining buildings and underground hard-rock mines to vibrant Main Street shops, museums, and cafés, this journey reveals how history and modern life coexist in the Sierra foothills. Perfect for RV travelers and road-trippers, these towns offer a slow, scenic experience filled with stories, architecture, and the enduring spirit of early California.

“Gold!” The cry rang out from Sutter’s Mill and, almost overnight, set the world in motion. What followed was not just a moment in history but a surge of human movement—tens of thousands streaming into California from every direction, each one chasing the same fragile promise buried in the Sierra foothills.

Today, the noise is gone, but the pull remains. Traveling these roads by RV, at a slower pace, you can still feel the undertow of that original rush—faint echoes carried through river bends, old mining towns, and quiet streets where history never quite settled down.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Highway 49: Through the heart of Gold Country

Slow miles, old stories, and Sierra foothill views that still shimmer with history

Travel back into the Gold Rush era along California State Route 49 where a chain of historic mining towns still dots the winding route through the western Sierra Nevada foothills. This is a drive best taken unhurried—where every bend in the road feels like it might still lead to a new strike of fortune.

Today, the “gold” is different. It’s in the panoramic ridgelines, the shaded canyons, and the quiet creeks that still thread their way past old diggings and weathered storefronts. For RV travelers, it’s less about distance covered and more about the rhythm of stopping, wandering, and letting the landscape tell its own story.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The discovery that changed everything

Gold, 1848, and a nation set in motion

The discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill in 1848 changed the course of California’s—and the nation’s—history almost overnight. What began as a single find quickly grew into a tidal wave of migration, reshaping landscapes, economies, and lives across the West.

While most of the original mining camps faded once the surface gold was gone, many of these towns never fully disappeared. Today, tourism has quietly revived them, bringing new life to old streets where the past still sits just beneath the surface.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Amador City: Smallest city, big history

Tiny footprint, lasting charm

Amador City is one of California’s smallest incorporated cities, settled in 1853 and officially incorporated in 1915. With a population of just over 200 residents and a total area of only 0.3 square miles—all of it land—it holds the distinction of being the smallest city in California by size.

Despite its scale, Amador City carries a presence far larger than its map footprint suggests. It’s the kind of place that rewards a slow roll-through in an RV, where a short stop is enough to uncover layers of Gold Rush history tucked into quiet streets and weathered buildings.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Amador City: Museums, shops, and slow discoveries

History you can walk through

On a visit to Amador City, it’s worth stepping into the Amador Whitney Museum for a closer look at local history. Inside, a carefully preserved collection of furniture, clothing, maps, books, and tools offers a rare perspective on the Gold Rush years—seen through the everyday lives of Amador City’s women.

The original mining-era buildings now hold a mix of small, independent shops that feel right at home in the historic streetscape. Victorian clothing, quilts, handmade gifts, garden art, antiques, and Gold Rush-era books line the shelves alongside a kitchen store and other specialty boutiques. Between stops, visitors can also find wine tasting rooms, an old-fashioned soda fountain and lunch counter, an artisan bakery, and relaxed spots serving simple lunches and dinners—making it easy to linger a little longer than planned.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Imperial Hotel: A night in Gold Country history

Stay where the past still lingers

The Imperial Hotel, dating back to 1878, offers visitors a chance to stay overnight and experience Amador City at a slower, more atmospheric pace. Built on the site of an earlier wooden hotel that was lost to the June 1878 fire, it was later expanded by owner B. Sanguinetti with a two-story frame addition to accommodate overflow guests—an addition that was eventually removed as the building evolved.

The hotel operated continuously until 1927 and has since been carefully restored to its original purpose. Today, six individually decorated rooms with private baths welcome guests once again, blending comfort with historic character. On site, the Oasis Bar and elegant dining room offer a relaxed dining experience with an inventive menu while the courtyard—framed by fountains, waterfalls, flower gardens, and century-old native stone walls—adds a quiet, almost hidden retreat in the heart of Gold Country.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Where it all began

Gold, a creek, and a name that stayed

It all began several hundred yards upstream from today’s town site along a nameless creek in the Sierra foothills. In 1848–1849, José María Amador, a wealthy Californio rancher, worked this ground and found gold outcroppings on both sides of the creek.

The Original (Little Amador) Mine and the Spring Hill Mine are believed to be among the county’s earliest gold mines. From these early discoveries, a ripple of settlement followed—first the creek, then the emerging town, and eventually the county itself all taking Amador’s name.

What began as a quiet working stretch of water would soon become part of a much larger story written across the Gold Country landscape.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From creekside camps to a mining town

As the gold moved, so did the town

As the easily reached placer gold was worked out along the upper creek, miners gradually pushed farther downstream. Camps and mining activity shifted toward South Amador where French Gulch joins the creek—a location that would eventually become present-day Amador City.

The town’s fortunes rose with the development of the Keystone Mine. Founded in 1853 through the consolidation of several smaller claims, it became the community’s most important and productive mine. Over time, the Keystone reached a depth of 2,680 feet and yielded an estimated $24 million in gold, helping transform a collection of mining camps into one of the region’s enduring Gold Rush communities.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The mine that built Amador City

Rich veins, hard times, and a boomtown’s rise

The early years of the Keystone Mine were marked by production challenges and frequent ownership changes. Its fortunes changed dramatically in 1866 when miners uncovered a rich new vein of gold. The discovery transformed the operation with the mine averaging an impressive $40,000 in gold production each month and earning a reputation as one of California’s most profitable hard-rock mines.

The mine remained the economic heart of Amador City for decades. At its peak, the community swelled to an estimated 4,000 to 6,000 residents, supported by miners, merchants, and the businesses that grew around them.

Like many Gold Country mines, however, its story eventually came to an end. In 1942, the federal government ordered the closure of gold mines across the country so resources and labor could be redirected to the war effort during World War II. The Keystone never reopened, closing the final chapter on the industry that had created and sustained Amador City for nearly a century.

Amador City © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Main street landmarks

Walking through Gold Rush history

Many of Amador City’s most important historic buildings still stand along Main Street, offering visitors a tangible connection to the town’s mining-era past.

The oldest surviving structure in town is the central portion of the historic Amador Hotel, built around 1855 when the Gold Rush was still in full swing. Its weathered walls have witnessed nearly every chapter of the community’s history from boomtown prosperity to modern-day revival.

A short walk up the street stands the stone Fleehart Building, now home to the Amador Whitney Museum. Dating to the 1860s, the building once served as a Wells Fargo office during the height of the mining era when gold, mail, and news flowed through these foothill communities. Today, it remains one of the town’s most recognizable landmarks and a reminder of the role Amador City played in California’s Gold Rush story.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Sutter Creek: The Jewel of the Mother Lode

Historic streets, modern pleasures

Just a few miles from Amador City, Sutter Creek offers a different but equally rewarding Gold Country experience. Nestled in the Sierra foothills, this picturesque town blends historic charm with outdoor recreation, inviting travelers to slow down and savor both the past and the present. From preserved Gold Rush architecture and inviting Main Street shops to nearby wineries and scenic trails, Sutter Creek is the kind of place where a weekend stop can easily turn into a longer stay.

Known as the “Jewel of the Mother Lode,” Sutter Creek traces its roots to the earliest days of California’s Gold Rush. The town takes its name from the creek which was named for John A. Sutter. In 1846, Sutter sent a party into the area in search of timber and logging operations were established along the creek before attention shifted elsewhere.

Everything changed in 1848 when gold was discovered at Sutter’s Mill. The find ignited the California Gold Rush and unleashed a flood of fortune seekers across the Sierra foothills. Ironically, the discovery brought hardship to Sutter himself. As workers abandoned his enterprises in pursuit of gold, he struggled to protect his lands and investments from the growing tide of miners.

Seeking opportunities of his own, Sutter eventually moved south and spent time prospecting along the creek that would later bear his name. Although his efforts met with limited success, the rich discoveries made by others soon transformed the area into one of the Mother Lode’s most productive mining districts. The camps that sprang up along the creek eventually grew into the thriving community of Sutter Creek, a town whose Gold Rush heritage remains visible around nearly every corner today.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From mining camp to Main Street

Small beginnings, lasting legacy

What began as a scattering of miners’ camps gradually evolved into a permanent settlement along the creek. At the center of this early community stood a simple cloth tent where miners gathered on rainy Sundays to socialize, exchange news, and conduct community business.

As more prospectors arrived and businesses followed, the settlement slowly took shape. The growing camp became associated with its most recognizable resident, John A. Sutter, and over the years was known by several names including Sutter’s Creek, Sutter, and Sutterville. Eventually, the community settled on the name that remains today: Sutter Creek.

Like many Mother Lode towns, Sutter Creek began as a temporary gathering place for fortune seekers. Unlike many of its neighbors, however, it survived the boom-and-bust cycle of mining and grew into one of California’s best-preserved Gold Rush communities.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Sutter’s brief mining venture

Not every fortune seeker struck gold

Despite lending his name to the creek and the town that followed, John A. Sutter was never a successful miner. A businessman and landowner by trade, he relied on hired workers and servants rather than prospecting himself—a practice that drew criticism from many of the independent miners working the district.

Finding little success and facing growing resentment, Sutter soon abandoned his mining efforts along the creek. He returned with his men to Sacramento and Sutter’s Fort, bringing his brief chapter in the Mother Lode to a close. Although the Gold Rush had begun on his property, Sutter would never again try his hand at mining. His name, however, would remain permanently attached to the creek and the thriving town that grew along its banks.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From gold mines to Main Street

The rush may be over, but the town still shines.

Sutter Creek rose to prominence as the commercial hub for the many mines that surrounded it. Unlike some Gold Rush communities built on placer deposits, Sutter Creek’s prosperity was driven by hard-rock mining. Among the area’s most notable operations were the Union Mine—later renamed the Lincoln Mine—and the Old Eureka Mine. These and other deep-rock mines attracted investment from some of the era’s most influential figures, including Alvinza Hayward, the Gold Country’s first millionaire; Hetty Green, once considered the wealthiest woman in America; and Leland Stanford, California governor, railroad magnate, and founder of Stanford University.

For decades, Sutter Creek remained a thriving mining town, supported by some of the richest and most productive hard-rock mines in the Mother Lode. The wealth pulled from the surrounding hills helped shape the community’s handsome buildings, bustling businesses, and enduring sense of optimism.

Today, the town’s riches are measured differently.

The charm of Sutter Creek begins with a leisurely stroll along Main Street, where beautifully preserved brick and Victorian-era storefronts house boutiques, galleries, wine tasting rooms, and inviting cafés. Historic buildings that once served miners and merchants now welcome visitors seeking a slower pace and a deeper connection to California’s past.

A highlight of any visit is the historic Knight Foundry, one of the last water-powered foundries in the United States. Here, visitors can explore the machinery and craftsmanship that helped build the mining industry and the communities that depended upon it.

Antique shops, artisan galleries, and locally owned businesses encourage visitors to linger, browse, and discover unexpected treasures. It’s easy to spend an afternoon wandering the historic district, soaking in the atmosphere that has made Sutter Creek one of the most beloved towns in California’s Gold Country.

More than 175 years after the first miners arrived, Sutter Creek continues to prosper. The gold may no longer be coming from the hills but the town has found a new source of wealth in the travelers who arrive seeking history, hospitality, and the timeless appeal of small-town California.

Sutter Creek © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Slow down and stay awhile

Gold Country is best measured in moments, not miles.

Together, Amador City and Sutter Creek tell the story of California’s Gold Rush from two distinct perspectives. One is a tiny community where history lingers in quiet streets and century-old buildings. The other is a vibrant destination where historic charm blends seamlessly with modern comforts. Yet both share the same roots, forged by the discoveries that transformed California and the nation.

For RV travelers, these towns offer something increasingly rare: a reason to slow down. Park the rig, stroll the sidewalks, browse a museum, linger over lunch, and take time to appreciate the stories hidden behind weathered brick facades and historic storefronts. The rewards here aren’t found at highway speed.

More than a century and a half after the Gold Rush, the mines may be silent, but the spirit that built these communities remains. Along Highway 49, the true treasure isn’t buried underground—it’s found in the people, places, and experiences that make Gold Country one of California’s most memorable journeys.

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Editor’s note

This article was originally published in April 2020 and updated in July 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. Conditions, access, and amenities may change over time, so please verify current details before planning your trip.

To maintain transparency and editorial independence, this website contains no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just firsthand RV travel experiences and practical information for fellow travelers.