Following Carnival Slowly: An RV Journey Through Louisiana and Alabama

Along the Gulf Coast, Mardi Gras is more than a day—it’s a rhythm that rolls from town to town. Traveling by RV invites you to follow that rhythm instead of chasing the noise.

Mardi Gras in 2026 is celebrated on Tuesday, February 17. Known as Fat Tuesday, this marks the final day of the Carnival season always falling the day before Ash Wednesday which begins the season of Lent. The Carnival season officially kicks off on Twelfth Night, January 6, beginning weeks of parades, festivities, and time-honored traditions leading up to the grand finale.

Carnival doesn’t start with a parade—it begins on the road in the quiet anticipation of towns, the sweep of oak-lined streets, and the first glimpses of purple, green, and gold along the way.

Somewhere along Highway 90 where live oaks lean toward the Gulf and shrimp boats rock in quiet harbors, the first hints appear—purple ribbons on storefronts, a banner stretched across a small-town main street, a hand-lettered sign promising king cake inside. Traveling by RV slows the approach. You don’t arrive at Mardi Gras; you move gradually into it.

In Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana, Carnival is never confined to a single city or a single night. It moves westward like a rising tide carrying history through Mobile’s streets and building to full spectacle across Louisiana’s parishes. When you follow it slowly—parking beneath moss-draped oaks, stepping from the calm of a campground into the surge of parade energy—you begin to realize that Mardi Gras is not merely an event but a living, breathing landscape.

Mobile honors Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Mobile, Alabama: Where the season feels inherited

Where tradition lives and breathes

In researching The History of Mardi Gras Traditions, I traced the roots of Carnival along the Gulf Coast and time and again, I found myself in Mobile. Here, Mardi Gras is more than an event to attend; it is a legacy, woven into streets, balconies, and the rhythm of the city itself.

Slow travel does more than slow the miles—it shifts your attention from the weight of history to the immediacy of the moment letting Carnival unfold around you in real time.

In Let the Good Times Roll in Mobile: Birthplace of Mardi Gras, I explored the city’s proud claim to Carnival’s American beginnings. But stepping beneath the arching live oaks again, watching purple, green, and gold stir gently from wrought-iron balconies, the story feels less like a claim and more like continuity. This is not a place rediscovering Mardi Gras each year; it is a place remembering it.

Mobile honors Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Traveling by RV slows your entrance into that memory. Campgrounds on the edge of town hold their own rhythm—neighbors comparing parade routes over folding chairs, longtime attendees recounting Joe Cain Day stories as if they happened yesterday. Coffee steams in the cool morning air. No one seems hurried. The parade will arrive in its time.

When it does, the celebration unfolds with a certain dignity. Families return to the same stretch of sidewalk year after year. Moon Pies arc through the air in gentle parabolas caught by children who already know the ritual. In an earlier reflection, Joe Cain, Moon Pies & Mobile Mardi Gras, I lingered on the symbolism of those sweet throws. Seeing them again, tossed into waiting hands, it becomes clear they are less about candy and more about inheritance.

And when the last float drifts out of sight, the city exhales. You make your way back along streets now emptied of clamor, beneath the sheltering oaks, as the faint scent of damp earth and lingering celebration hangs in the air. The spectacle recedes, replaced by a profound stillness that feels almost sacred.

Following Carnival slowly allows you to feel what Mobile has always known—that Mardi Gras did not begin as noise. It began as community.

Mobile may hold the roots but Carnival does not stay still.

Mobile Honors Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

When the last parade fades and the oak-shaded streets settle, the road west begins to call. Highway 90 follows the shoreline in long, unhurried stretches winding past marshes and bays and crossing waterways where shrimp boats rock gently at their moorings. Purple and gold do not vanish beyond the city limits; they resurface in quiet, personal gestures streamers draped over porch rails, hand-painted signs announcing local parades, a bakery window offering the promise of fresh king cake.

Traveling by RV makes the transition gradual rather than abrupt. Mardi Gras does not stay behind in Mobile—you follow it, mile by mile, as it winds through fishing towns and coastal communities that celebrate with quieter devotion, each parade less grand but no less heartfelt.

Somewhere between Alabama’s shoreline and Louisiana’s wetlands, the sound begins to shift. What began as tradition deepens into rhythm, subtle at first, then swelling with the pulse of Carnival.

Mardi Gras costumes display in Bay St. Louis © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Gulf Coast Corridor: Carnival in Mississippi

Where celebration flows with the tide

West of Mobile, the road opens like a slow curtain over the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Highway 90 winds along the shoreline skirting salt marshes where herons skim the surface and shrimp boats rock softly against their moorings. Here, Mardi Gras is not confined to grand city streets; it hums quietly along the coast appearing in subtle gestures that a hurried traveler might miss entirely—streamers fluttering on porch rails, hand-painted signs announcing weekend parades, and the occasional glint of beads in a neighbor’s yard.

In towns such as Pascagoula, Biloxi, Gulfport, and Bay St. Louis, purple, green, and gold emerge on simple fences, local shops, and weathered front porches. A hand-painted sign may herald a weekend parade while families lean casually against the railings of fishing docks watching children chase beads that drift through the air like sparks caught on the tide. Celebration here is gentle, intimate, and unmistakably tied to place.

Bay St. Louis slows the pace even further. The town feels like a pause along the coast and for a visitor moving slowly it carries a surprising hint of Louisiana—the cadence of its streets, the sway of oaks draped in moss, the intimate, neighborly rhythm of Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras costumes display in Bay St. Louis © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Beads hang from porch railings, children dart between streets with small laughter trailing behind them, and the scent of local seafood mingles with the faint tang of the bay. The parades are modest—floats decorated with care rather than extravagance—but each one carries the unmistakable joy of a community celebrating together.

Traveling by RV, you can linger here in a way impossible in larger cities. Park near the waterfront, sip coffee as sunlight warms the streets, and watch the quiet choreography of Carnival unfold. In Bay St. Louis, the celebration feels personal; it belongs not to tourists but to the people who live, work, and greet one another by name.

By the time the Louisiana wetlands rise on the horizon, you’re ready for the swell—the brassy, layered, larger-than-life sound that signals the next turn in the journey. What began as quiet tradition along Alabama’s shore and deepened into rhythm across Mississippi now gathers momentum.

The Gulf Coast corridor has done its quiet work. It has slowed you down enough to notice the details, enough to feel the pulse beneath the parades, enough to understand that Carnival is not a single celebration but a current moving west. And so you enter Louisiana not merely as a spectator chasing spectacle but as part of the movement itself—already tuned to its tempo, already carried by its tide.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

New Orleans: The crescendo of Carnival

The heartbeat of Mardi Gras

As the RV crosses into Louisiana, the sound changes. It is subtle at first—the distant cadence of drums, the low murmur of brass warming up along side streets—but soon the city announces itself in full: layered, brassy, and joyfully relentless. New Orleans does not ease into Carnival; it gathers it, amplifies it, and releases it in waves.

This is a city built to celebrate where balconies lean over narrow streets and music spills from doorways as naturally as conversation. Carnival here feels larger than life—grand parades, elaborate floats, traditions carried for generations—yet it can still be intimate if you know how to step into it slowly. Pause between parades. Wander beyond the main routes. Let the music find you instead of chasing it.

After the quiet hum of Mississippi’s shoreline, the crescendo feels earned. You arrive not overwhelmed but ready—already attuned to the rhythm, prepared for the swell and willing to be carried by it.

Here, slow travel transforms the experience. You are not rushing from float to float or tallying beads like trophies. Instead, you move with the city pausing in shaded doorways observing the careful choreography of the krewes, listening to the easy exchange between old-timers and newcomers, feeling the steady pulse of a tradition that is at once disciplined and wildly expressive.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The spectacle is immense, undeniably grand, yet within it live countless small moments that linger longer than any parade. A shared laugh over a missed throw. The rhythmic stomp of a drumline reverberating through your chest before it ever reaches your ears. A quiet nod between neighbors who have stood shoulder to shoulder on this same stretch of pavement for decades. In those fleeting exchanges, the true heart of Carnival reveals itself not just in pageantry but in connection.

As the parades wind down, the streets do not empty all at once; instead, they exhale. Beads drift in lazy arcs through the humid night air, balcony lights shimmer against wrought iron, and the city eases into its own unhurried, post-parade rhythm. Laughter lingers in pockets. A lone trumpet offers a final flourish somewhere down the block.

Walking back to the RV, the contrast becomes part of the experience. The brassy crescendo of the day gives way to the hush of your quiet parking spot—the cool night air carrying the faint sweetness of King Cake and the warm, earthy scent of roasted peanuts. The celebration does not end abruptly; it settles, like music resolving into its final note. And in that gentle unwinding, you realize that the true gift of arriving slowly is knowing how to leave slowly, too.

King cakes at Ambrosia Bakery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In New Orleans, Carnival is not a moment, it is a living, breathing organism. It inhales with the roll of drums and exhales in showers of color and light. Following it slowly, by road and on foot, allows you to feel its pulse without being swallowed by it, to stand within the surge while still keeping your footing.

The city teaches a quiet discipline beneath the revelry: how to balance presence with observation, spectacle with reflection, and noise with stillness. When you travel this way—unhurried, attentive—you begin to recognize that even the grandest crescendo contains space for pause. And it is that rhythm, learned here amid brass and balcony lights, that prepares you for the more intimate towns still waiting down the road.

Acadiana Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Acadiana: Where Carnival feels intimate

Where courirs carry tradition

Leaving the surge of New Orleans behind, the highway narrows and the rhythm shifts. The brass fades into fiddle and accordion. Bayous replace balconies. In the prairie towns surrounding Lafayette, Mardi Gras is not staged for visitors—it rises from fields, front porches, and generations of memory.

Traveling by RV, you notice the subtle signs: a mailbox wrapped in purple, green, and gold; smoke curling from a backyard boil; laughter drifting across open pasture. Here, neighbors greet one another by name. Children recognize the masked riders. The celebration feels less like performance and more like inheritance.

The Cajun courirs de Mardi Gras trace their roots to medieval France where disguised revelers in mocking costumes visited homes on Mardi Gras day performing songs and skits while begging for food in lean times. That centuries-old ritual survives in rural Louisiana with remarkable vitality.

At first light, masked riders—some on horseback, others in decorated trucks—set out across the countryside accompanied by musicians or loudspeakers carrying traditional tunes. At each farmhouse they stop to beg for ingredients for a communal gumbo: rice, flour, sausage, and often a live chicken released into the yard, sending masked runners scrambling in playful pursuit. Laughter erupts, dust rises, and another offering is added to the pot that will later feed the town.

Acadiana Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In communities where the courir welcomes visitors, larger runs such as those in Eunice, Mamou, and Church Point draw followers who trail behind the riders along rural roads. Yet even there, the spirit remains communal rather than commercial. By afternoon, the procession turns back toward town where the gathered ingredients are poured into a single simmering pot.

Some towns add a parade or performance to close the day. In Iota, the Tee Mamou courir winds through town during the annual Mardi Gras Festival before gathering later at D.I.’s Cajun Restaurant where music and dancing continue into the evening. In the week leading up to Mardi Gras, children’s and women’s krewes take their turn performing there as well reminding everyone that the tradition belongs to every generation.

In Acadiana, Carnival is not measured in float height or bead counts. It is measured in dusty miles traveled at dawn, in shared labor around a steaming pot, and in the steady passing of culture from one set of hands to the next.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Ash Wednesday: The quiet return

From crescendo to calm

When the last beads have been caught, the final brass notes soften, and the streets grow still, Carnival exhales. Beside the RV parked beneath moss-draped oaks, the Gulf Coast towns seem to breathe again settling gently into the cadence of ordinary days. Stray beads glint along curbs, King Cake boxes rest against lampposts, and a faint sweetness lingers in the cooling air.

Traveling slowly allows you to witness what many visitors never see. The quiet is not emptiness; it is reflection. In Mobile, inherited rituals feel as though they are folding themselves carefully away. Along Mississippi’s shoreline—in towns like Bay St. Louis—porches are swept, banners lowered, neighbors lingering a little longer in conversation. Across Acadiana, communities such as Breaux Bridge and St. Martinville are already looking ahead, traditions quietly passed from one generation to the next, the choreography of Carnival tucked safely into memory until it rises again.

The road onward—whether north toward home or west to another horizon—carries more than luggage. It carries the layered sound of brass bands, the warmth of small-town parades, the dust of rural backroads at dawn. Following Mardi Gras slowly by RV means moving not just through geography but through culture and time. You begin to recognize the subtle variations from town to town, the stillness that frames the spectacle, the enduring pulse that binds it all together.

In this slower rhythm, Mardi Gras is no longer confined to a single day or even a season. It becomes a landscape you have traveled, a story you have entered, a memory that hums softly beneath the tires as the miles unfold. And long after the floats have passed, the celebration continues—carried forward in quiet streets, in shared meals, and in the steady, reflective hum of the road home.

King cake © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Closing reflection

Bringing it all into focus

Following Mardi Gras slowly—by RV, on backroads, and through small-town streets—reveals a side of the celebration that most visitors never see. It’s not just about parades or throws; it’s about rhythm, memory, and place. As Franklin Alvarado once said, “It’s a great party, and anyone who doesn’t enjoy Mardi Gras is not of this world.” And indeed, traveling at this pace, you feel invited not just to observe but to join in the pulse of a living tradition carried forward in neighborhoods, campgrounds, and quiet moments between celebrations.

Fat Tuesday—the final day before Lent’s forty-day fast—exudes its magic from every pore. Elaborately costumed krewes toss beads from floats, giving rise to fanciful celebrations of the dead, historic rituals steeped in Catholic doctrine, as Sterling Warner describes. But slow travel lets you notice the small, intimate gestures hidden within the spectacle: a shared laugh over a missed toss, a nod to neighbors who have watched parades together for decades, the subtle rise of brass or fiddle from a distant street corner.

And yet, Mardi Gras is not confined to tradition alone. As Paul Simon captures:

“Common take me to the Mardi Gras
Where the people sing and play
Where the dancing is elite
And there’s music in the street
Both night and day.”

By following the Carnival at your own pace, you experience both sides of this world: the exuberant, city-wide celebration and the quieter, neighborly expressions of joy that thread through small towns, bayous, and coastal communities. Mardi Gras becomes more than a party; it becomes a journey, a landscape, and a story lived in motion. The floats will pass, the beads will scatter, and the music may fade, but the rhythm remains—carried forward on the road, in memory, and in the hearts of those who travel slowly enough to notice.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in February 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.

Looking For a Family-friendly Mardi Gras Location? Try Mobile

Where did Mardi Gras start in the US? You may think its New Orleans, but it’s not.

To most of us, the Big Easy has come to be synonymous with Fat Tuesday as Mardi Gras is known in social parlance. That is an association that’s more than a hundred years old—and for a good reason.

Like football which began in England but found a different distinctive flavor in the Latin American country of Brazil, the history and evolution of the Mardi Gras in continental America shares similar parallels. This will come as a surprise to many but the Carnival did not begin in New Orleans.

Mobile Mardi Gras Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Mobile is the birthplace of America’s original Mardi Gras

That’s right, 15 years before New Orleans was founded in 1718, the city of Mobile had played host to the first Mardi Gras. It was revived after the Civil War when citizen Joe Cain fed up with post-war misery led an impromptu parade down city streets. Mobile has been doing it ever since and marks the annual occasion with majestic parades, colorful floats, and flying MoonPies.

Celebrate from February 14th to March 4th, 2025!

New Orleans would later come into the picture and completely remold the Carnival in its own desired image. But, as we’ll show, the New Orleans spectacle has not been very family-friendly. It’s the reason I suggest Mobile, Alabama—as the destination that’s more family-friendly.

Mobile Mardi Gras Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Why you might need to reconsider New Orleans if you want to enjoy Mardi Gras with family

For many, it’s a no-brainer. New Orleans is just the ultimate Mardi Gras venue. Every year, more than a million find their way to the Big Easy to take part in the celebrations. That’s unlike any other venue in the United States. And to be honest, it rarely disappoints.

New Orleans is just the place where the celebration exudes its soul and spirit, its charm and allure. This is the place where its pulse beats. And while other places may have their attractive aspects, no venue in the United States seems ready to dislodge New Orleans from its perch as the country’s favorite venue for the Carnival. But there’s a caveat.

It’s not about being overly prudish. We all know that this is not a procession of bishops. However, the truth is that the celebrations in New Orleans can be uncomfortably raunchy, unrestrained, and, in some places, unpretentiously lewd. Make no mistake; many families will find it OK. What kids should be exposed to is an issue that’s always subjective. Of course, this grossness takes different tones and textures—depending on particular spots within the city—as well as the specific day.

For those who want to skirt around the problem areas, the French Quarter will be a place that many might want to avoid. This is where craziness finds ultimate expression. And few would say that it’s appropriate for kids.

It’s also important to note that Mardi Gras usually begins on the 6th of January—and runs through to the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. That’s anywhere between four to eight weeks—depending on the arrival of Ash Wednesday. In most cases, it never gets that crazy except during the week and weekend when the jamboree climaxes. Also, the neighborhood parades in NOLA are always up to the mark. Of course one may want to come to New Orleans for its other array of attractions.

Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Here’s why for Mardi Gras, Mobile is a better venue for families

As we’ve seen—Mobile is the true birthplace of Mardi Gras in the United States. Even the two elements that have come to define Fat Tuesday were established in Mobile. The first is a parade. What would the celebration be without its wildly popular parade? The second is a ball, a formal party hosted by a specific krewe to celebrate its members.

Although Mobile boasts rich history and tradition relating to Mardi Gras, it’s not just history. The celebrations in Mobile have to a large extent retained this carnival as a family affair. And that’s where it edges out New Orleans.

And don’t imagine that Mobile is not popular as a Mardi Gras destination. Attendance usually exceeds 200,000 during Fat Tuesday parades. Over 1 million will attend the Mardi Gras parades in New Orleans during the final week leading up to Fat Tuesday.

Mardi Gras celebrations begin two and a half weeks before Fat Tuesday and the Port City comes to life. Elaborate themed floats manned by masked mystic societies, mounted police, and marching bands wind through downtown Mobile and surrounding areas entertaining nearly a million revelers each year.

The Carnival is a family-friendly time of parties, balls, parades, and revelry. Find your spot and get ready to catch MoonPies, beads, and trinkets. And not to forget the man who kept Mardi Gras alive, Joe Cain Day is observed the Sunday before Fat Tuesday. 

Over 40 parades roll through downtown Mobile (and across the area) beginning February 2025.

Bonus: Many downtown parades can be caught multiple times.

The ambience is bolstered by the more than forty parades that feature during the celebrations. All these take place over multiple routes through the many days that Mardi Gras wafts the celebratory air aloft in the Southern skies.

Mobile Mardi Gras Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Tuesday, March 4, 2025 – Mardi Gras Day FAT TUESDAY Parade Schedule

  • 10:30 am: Order of Athena Parade
  • 12:30 pm: King Felix Parade
  • 1:00 pm: Knights of Revelry Parade
  • 1:30 pm: Comic Cowboys Parade
  • 2:00 pm: Mobile Area Mardi Gras Association (rolls on Route B)
  • 6:00 pm: Order of Myths Parade (rolls on Route C)

Mobile Carnival Museum

  • Location: 355 Government St, Mobile, AL 36602
  • General admission: $8
  • Open: Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, 9 am-4 pm (closed Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday)
  • Parking: Complimentary parking at the on-site lot

The Mobile Carnival Museum is a history museum that chronicles over 300 years of Carnival and Mardi Gras in Mobile. The museum is housed in the historic Bernstein-Bush mansion on Government Street in downtown Mobile

Celebrating for over 300 years:

  • Witness the pomp and pageantry of past coronations
  • Browse a pictorial gallery historical photographs dating back to 1886
  • Experience a behind-the-mask view of the street party by climbing aboard a rocking float
  • Discover the art of costume design and float construction
  • Immerse yourself in the rich history and traditions of carnival
  • Take a picture as royalty
  • See firsthand the intricate designs and artistry of majestic crowns, scepters, and robes of Mardi Gras monarchs
  • View videos of parades and balls.
Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Mardi Gras FAQs

Where does the name Carnival come from and why does Mardi Gras fall when it does on the calendar?

The word carnival is derived from Medieval Latin, meaning “forsaking the flesh” and therefore it seems likely later celebrations began as a reaction to the rules of abstaining from certain foods during Lent. The Romans imported into Italy many of the Greek mystery cults and the history of the three major Roman festivals have been passed down to us: Saturnalia (honoring Saturnus), Lupercalia (celebrated in the coldest time of winter, our February), and Bacchanalia (celebrating Dionysus, the god of wine).

The early Christian church, unable to suppress or contain these universal celebrations took them to the church calendar allowing wild “let loose” Carnival before the 40 days of Lent, a period of rest, repentance, meditation, and making resolutions. Backed up 47 days before Easter, Mardi Gras can occur as early as February 3 and as late as March 9th.

What’s the history behind Mobile’s Mardi Gras flag and why is it different from New Orleans?

Mobile’s Mardi Gras flag is different from New Orleans flag in that it features only purple and gold colors. Mobilians have always celebrated the simpler, less garish and more royal Mardi Gras and the greater taste of Mobilians. The colors of the flag, purple and gold, stand for justice and power, respectively. 

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Why do Mobile maskers throw doubloons and moon pies?

The custom of throwing trinkets developed from the European custom of throwing dragees (sugar coated almonds) to the crowds. In the 1850s, New Orleans modified the idea and began throwing small bags of flour that would burst open and shower the onlookers. The first doubloon was thrown in New Orleans at the Rex parade which became a Mardi Gras tradition.

Today maskers in Mobile throw doubloons stamped with their parade themes in a variety of colors—pink, green, purple.

You might call moon pies the official food of Mobile Mardi Gras. According to legend, a savvy salesman from the Chattanooga Bakery asked a group of coal miners what kind of snack they would like. The miners unanimously agreed it had to be something that could fit in their lunch pails but had to be filling. One held up his hand encircling the outline of the rising moon and replied “About that big!” As the story goes, back at the bakery the salesman noticed some workers enjoying graham cookies dipped in marshmallow. He added another cookie to the mix and covered the entire thing in chocolate thus creating the first moon pie.

Whether this fabled tale is true the Chattanooga Bakery added the Moon Pie to its list of treats in 1917 and it soon became its number one product. In the 40s and 50s it was America’s most popular pre-packaged snack usually downed with an RC Cola.

Years later, mystic societies in Mobile adopted the moon pie in a search for something softer to throw to parade-goers than the traditional box of Cracker Jack’s. The Moon Pie was a hit with parade-goers. Today some half a million Chattanooga Moon Pies (the only “official” moon pie) are said to be thrown during Mobile Mardi Gras. 

Mardi Gras costumes © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Who is King Felix and how is the Mardi Gras court selected each year?

The first recorded king of Mobile Carnival was 1872 when Daniel Huger was crowned Felix I.

From that time until 1919, a loosely organized group of business men worked together for economic and business reasons to encourage up-country residents to come to Mobile for the social season during Carnival. The idea was that these revelers would come in the city with their families and live in local hotels, spend their money, and enjoy the parties and balls at Mardi Gras.

In 1920, Alfred L. Staples formally organized the Mobile Carnival Association which is still functioning today. King Felix III, the ruling monarch and his Queen are selected by the Carnival Association almost a year in advance of Fat Tuesday. The debutantes of the season make up the Ladies of the Court. Each Lady selects her escort or Knight.

Events begin in November with the Camellia Ball traditionally held on Thanksgiving weekend. The Mobile Carnival Association Coronation of the Queen on the Saturday before Mardi Gras marks an event National Geographic magazine has described as rivaling that of royal heads of state in Europe.

On Lundi Gras—the Monday before Fat Tuesday—King Felix III and his knights arrive from the Isle of Joy via a yacht to Mobile Landing at the foot of Government Street. The Mayor presents King Felix III with the key to the city beginning King Felix’s reign of Mardi Gras misrule. The spectacular Queen’s Luncheon that day is followed by the daylong celebration of Fat Tuesday which routinely draws some two hundred thousand parade-goers to the streets of downtown Mobile.

The Mobile Area Mardi Gras Association similarly celebrates King Elexis I who arrives with his royal flotilla before a colorful coronation and crowning of his Queen the Sunday before Mardi Gras.

That’s it. The truth is that while New Orleans is a fine destination for Mardi Gras, Mobile, Alabama, is more family-friendly.

Worth Pondering…

But, after all, if, as a child, you saw, every Mardi Gras, the figure of Folly chasing Death around the broken column of Life, beating him on the back with a Fool’s Scepter from which dangled two gilded pig bladders; or the figure of Columbus dancing drunkenly on top of a huge revolving globe of the world; or Revelry dancing on an enormous upturned wine glass—wouldn’t you see the world in different terms, too?

Eugene Walter, The Untidy Pilgrim, 1954

The Mystique of Mardi Gras: Inside the History of Fat Tuesday

Believe it or not, Fat Tuesday wasn’t always a day of parades and beads

Beads tossed from parade floats elaborate masked balls, and the brilliant colors of purple, green, and gold. We’re speaking, of course, of Mardi Gras (February 13, 2024), the raucous celebration that falls on the Tuesday before the Christian fasting period of Lent in February and March. Also known internationally as Carnival or Carnaval, the lively annual festival is the hallmark of New Orleans, Louisiana, but its rich history begins well before the establishment of the Big Easy in 1718.

Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Medieval roots, French legacy

The origins of Mardi Gras can be traced to medieval Europe passing through Rome and Venice in the 17th and 18th centuries to the French House of the Bourbons. From here, the traditional revelry of Boeuf Gras or fatted calf followed France to her colonies. By that time, the celebration was linked to the Catholic Church and its attempts to discourage indulgences during Lent. 

The English translation of the French Mardi Gras is Fat Tuesday and it was originally a single-day celebration in which revelers would eat, drink, and carouse as much as possible before midnight when Ash Wednesday marked the beginning of Lent. It was a day that many recklessly released their inhibitions before the 40 days of fasting that led up to Easter.

Mardi Gras costume exhibit © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

On March 2, 1699, French-Canadian explorer Jean Baptiste Le Moyne Sieur de Bienville arrived at a plot of ground 60 miles directly south of New Orleans and named it Pointe du Mardi Gras when his men realized it was the eve of the festive holiday. Bienville also established Fort Louis de la Louisiane (which is now Mobile) in 1702. In 1703, the tiny settlement of Fort Louis de la Mobile celebrated America’s very first Mardi Gras.

In 1704, Mobile established a secret society (Masque de la Mobile), similar to those that form the current Mardi Gras krewes. It lasted until 1709. In 1710, the Boeuf Gras Society was formed and paraded from 1711 through 1861. The procession was held with a huge bull’s head pushed along on wheels by 16 men. Later, Rex would parade with an actual bull, draped in white and signaling the coming Lenten meat fast. This occurred on Fat Tuesday.

New Orleans was established in 1718 by Bienville. By the 1730s, Mardi Gras was celebrated openly in New Orleans but not with the parades we know today. In the early 1740s, Louisiana’s governor, the Marquis de Vaudreuil, established elegant society balls which became the model for the New Orleans Mardi Gras balls of today.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Secret societies, parades, and beads

The earliest reference to Mardi Gras Carnival appears in a 1781 report to the Spanish colonial governing body. That year, the Perseverance Benevolent & Mutual Aid Association was the first of hundreds of clubs and carnival organizations formed in New Orleans.

By the late 1830s, New Orleans held street processions of maskers with carriages and horseback riders to celebrate Mardi Gras. Dazzling gaslight torches or flambeaux lit the way for the Krewe’s members and lent each event an exciting air of romance and festivity.

In 1856, six young Mobile natives formed the Mistick Krewe of Comus invoking John Milton’s hero Comus to represent their organization. Comus brought magic and mystery to New Orleans with dazzling floats (known as tableaux cars) and masked balls. Krewe members remained anonymous.

In 1870, Mardi Gras’ second Krewe, the Twelfth Night Revelers, was formed and it introduced throws in 1870 which kicked off the tradition of tossing keepsakes from floats into the crowd. While some Krewes, like the krewe of Zulu, choose to throw coveted odd items like coconuts, most Krewes stick to purple, green, and gold beads, the official colors of Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras costume exhibit © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Newspapers began to announce Mardi Gras events in advance and they even printed Carnival Edition lithographs of parades’ fantastic float designs (after they rolled, of course—themes and floats were always carefully guarded before the procession). At first, these reproductions were small and details could not be seen. But beginning in 1886 with Proteus’ parade Visions of Other Worlds these chromolithographs could be produced in full, saturated color doing justice to the float and costume designs of Carlotta Bonnecase, Charles Briton, and B.A. Wikstrom. Each of these designers’ work was brought to life by talented Parisian paper-mache artist Georges Soulie who for 40 years was responsible for creating all of Carnival’s floats and processional outfits.

1872 was the year that a group of businessmen invented a King of Carnival, Rex, to preside over the first daytime parade. To honor the visiting Russian Grand Duke Alexis Romanoff, the businessmen introduced Romanoff’s family colors of purple, green, and gold as Carnival’s official colors. Purple stands for justice, gold for power, and green for faith. This was also the Mardi Gras season that Carnival’s improbable anthem, If Ever I Cease to Love, was cemented, due in part to the Duke’s fondness for the tune.

The following year, floats began to be constructed entirely in New Orleans instead of France culminating with Comus’ magnificent The Missing Links to Darwin’s Origin of Species in which exotic paper-mache animal costumes served as the basis for Comus to mock both Darwin’s theory and local officials including Governor Henry Warmoth. In 1875, Governor Warmoth signed the Mardi Gras Act making Fat Tuesday a legal holiday in Louisiana which it still is.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Modern Mardi Gras

Like Comus and the Twelfth Night Revelers, most Mardi Gras krewes today developed from private social clubs with restrictive membership policies. Since all of these parade organizations are completely funded by their members, New Orleanians call it the Greatest Free Show on Earth!

Except for the crowds, today’s Mardi Gras isn’t that different from its colonial origins. Secret societies still rule the parades, revelers still try to catch the throws, and indulgence remains the common thread for the entire week of festivities. There’s no experience quite like a New Orleans Mardi Gras experience so as people say in Cajun French at Mardi Gras New Orleans, laissez les bons temps rouler—let the good times roll!

>> DIG DEEPER

Future Mardi Gras Dates

  • March 4, 2025
  • February 17, 2026
  • February 9, 2027
  • February 29, 2028
  • February 13, 2029
  • March 5, 2030

Worth Pondering…

It’s a great party, and anyone who doesn’t enjoy Mardi Gras is not of this world.

—Franklin Alvarado

The Top Hidden Gems for Snowbirds: Find Your New Winter Escape

This study identifies a collection of hidden gem cities—warm places waiting to be discovered by those keen on avoiding the cold and the crowds. Architectural Digest ranked 75 U.S. cities based on various factors to guide you to these notable locales.

Snow and chilly weather aren’t for everyone. Many choose to head to warmer climates during the colder months. If you’re a snowbird seeking a retreat outside popular sun-soaked places this winter, you’ve landed in the right place.

Mobile, Alabama © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Key findings

  • The number one hidden gem destination for snowbirds is New Orleans
  • The snowbird destination with the greatest selection of activities is Sedona
  • Mobile, Alabama, has the highest-rated light-traffic outdoor trails
  • Ajo, Arizona, has the most affordable homes on Zillow with an average cost of $161,048; Santa Barbara, California has the most expensive at more than $3.7 million
  • Maui has the best weather score with average daily winter temperatures near 80 degrees Fahrenheit
Ajo, Arizona © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Ranking the best winter escapes

Architectural Digest ranked cities based on housing and lodging availability, Yelp ratings for activities and eateries, home sale prices, and winter weather conditions to determine the best cities for snowbirds. To ensure these destinations are hidden gems, each location boasts establishments with high ratings—between four and five stars on Yelp—but only six to 75 reviews indicating that they are still relatively undiscovered.

Considering these factors, they assigned each of the 75 cities in this study a national ranking from 1 to 75.

Their research uncovered common traits among the top-ranked winter escape cities: pleasant weather throughout the winter months, unique experiences, and highly rated yet lesser-known establishments. These locations also had many homes for sale on Zillow or lodging options on Yelp catering to both seasonal tourists and those seeking a more permanent residence. Below, I explore the distinct qualities that set each of the top five cities apart from one another.

New Orleans, Louisiana

  • Overall rank: First
  • Housing and lodging availability: First
  • Activities and dining: Third

New Orleans scored 86.9 out of 100 points securing the top spot overall and for housing and lodging availability. The city’s blend of French, Spanish, and African cultural heritage coupled with its many festivals, dining, and entertainment options make it a top choice for a winter escape.

Corkscrew Sanctuary near Naples, Florida © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Naples, Florida

  • Overall rank: Second
  • Housing and lodging availability: Second
  • Activities and dining: Fourteenth

Nestled within the Sunshine State, Naples boasts pristine beaches and an upscale way of life establishing itself as an ideal haven for a sun-soaked seasonal getaway. With a commendable 10th place in the weather category and beautiful Floridian homes widely available, its appeal is undeniable.

Honolulu, Hawaii

  • Overall rank: Third
  • Housing and lodging availability: Eighth
  • Activities and dining: Second

Honolulu is the vibrant heart of Hawaii offering more than just postcard-perfect beaches and swaying palm trees. Located on the southern shore of the island of Oahu, this tropical paradise provides a harmonious blend of natural beauty and urban sophistication. With a high rank in housing and lodging availability, you’ll likely be able to find a luxurious island home here for the winter.

Palm Springs, California © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Palm Springs, California

  • Overall Rank: Fourth
  • Housing and lodging availability: Fourth
  • Activities and dining: Fifth

This Sonoran Desert jewel is a hidden gem in the Coachella Valley offering a unique blend of relaxation and midcentury-modern charm. Despite its property costs and weather rankings at 48th and 43rd, respectively, Palm Springs still holds allure as an under-the-radar winter escape with many housing, activity, and dining options.

Riparian Preserve in Gilbert, Arizona © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Gilbert, Arizona

  • Overall Rank: Fifth
  • Housing and lodging availability: 38th
  • Activities and dining: First

Located southeast of Phoenix in the Valley of the Sun, Gilbert is a true hidden gem waiting to be discovered. While its 38th position in housing and lodging might suggest limited availability, it shines brilliantly as the number-one location for activities and dining.

The study as a whole has limited use for RV snowbirds since a key focus of the researchers was housing and lodging availability and cost. As a result, I will focus the remaining portion of this article on factors relevant to RV snowbirds: eateries and walking trails.

Average winter daily temperatures and UV index were of limited use since the top three locations were Maui, Honolulu, and Key West. But how practical is it to get your RV there?

I’ve identified hidden gem cities for snowbirds based on several key factors all determining whether a city is an ideal escape during the winter months. I’ve spotlighted each category below to further explain how cities fared across the rankings. The key factors/categories I’ve selected—eateries, activities, and trails—are relevant for most RV snowbirds.

Number of highly-rated hidden gem eateries and bars:

  • Gilbert, Arizona (150)
  • New Orleans, Louisiana (107)
  • Palm Springs, California (86)

Number of highly-rated hidden gem activies:

  • Sedona, Arizona (109)
  • Honolulu, Hawaii (97)
  • Santa Barbara, California (29)

Percentage of total walking trails with high ratings and low traffic on AllTrails

  • Mobile, Alabama (68 percent)
  • Yuma, Arizona (62 percent)
  • Idyllwild, California (60 percent)

Other categories including the number of homes for sale in Zillow and the number of highly rated hidden gem lodging options were also included in the rating but unrelated to RV snowbirds and thus omitted  in this article,

Where to Go to Escape the Snow

Planning for a future RV snowbird road trip? Need to know where it doesn’t snow? Here are the top six states with the least snow to get you started on your plans.

Keep reading…

The Best RV Driving Routes for Snowbirds

Snowbirds migrate from the northern reaches of the continent to the Sun Belt when the weather starts to get cold and snowy just like millions of actual birds that migrate back and forth every year. And just like the flocks of birds that follow familiar routes, RV snowbirds tend to make this journey on a few well-traveled arterials.

Keep reading…

Lost Dutchman State Park, Arizona © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

12 of the Best State Parks for Snowbirds

It doesn’t matter if you’re looking for a well-developed RV site with all the bells and whistles or a wooded tent spot far from any sort of road or development, there’s a state park campsite for you. To lend a hand—there are over 10,000 state parks, after all—I’ve profiled a list of some of the best campsites in state parks that are known for their popularity and unique beauty.

Keep reading…

Worth Pondering…

My parents didn’t want to move to Florida but they turned sixty and that’s the law.

—Jerry Steinfeld

The History of Mardi Gras Traditions

What was Mardi Gras like in 1898?

Fat Tuesday, last day before Lent’s forty day fast;
Mardi Gras magic exudes from every pore,
Elaborately costumed krewes toss beads off floats,
Give rise to fanciful celebrations of the dead,
Historic carnival steeped in Catholic doctrine.

—Sterling Warner

Mardi Gras is a Christian holiday and popular cultural phenomenon that dates back thousands of years to pagan spring and fertility rites. Also known as Carnival or Carnaval, it’s celebrated in many countries around the world, mainly ones with large Roman Catholic populations. Mardi Gras is traditionally celebrated on Fat Tuesday, the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, and the start of Lent. This year Mardi Gras is February 21 which means the season will last a little more than six weeks.

Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Mardi Gras is one of the many worldwide celebrations that recognize Fat Tuesday—the last day before Lent which historically was characterized by giving up meat, sweets, and other delicacies. Originating in medieval Europe, by the 17th and 18th centuries the festivities had become an annual event for the French House of the Bourbons.

On March 2, 1699, French-Canadian explorer Jean Baptiste Le Moyne Sieur de Bienville arrived at a plot of ground 60 miles directly south of New Orleans and named it Pointe du Mardi Gras when his men realized it was the eve of the festive holiday. Bienville also established Fort Louis de la Louisiane (which is now Mobile) in 1702. In 1703, the tiny settlement of Fort Louis de la Mobile celebrated America’s very first Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras display © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In 1704, Mobile established Masque de la Mobile, a secret society similar to those that form the current Mardi Gras krewes. It lasted until 1709. In 1710, the Boeuf Gras Society was formed and paraded from 1711 through 1861. The procession was held with a huge bull’s head pushed along on wheels by 16 men. Later, Rex, The King of Carnival, would parade with an actual bull draped in white and signaling the coming Lenten meat fast. This occurred on Fat Tuesday.

New Orleans was established in 1718 by Bienville. By the 1730s, Mardi Gras was celebrated in New Orleans but not with the parades we know today. In the early 1740s, Louisiana’s governor, the Marquis de Vaudreuil, established elegant society balls which became the model for the New Orleans Mardi Gras balls of today.

King cakes at Ambrosia Bakery, Baton Rouge © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The earliest reference to Mardi Gras Carnival appears in a 1781 report to the Spanish colonial governing body. That year, the Perseverance Benevolent & Mutual Aid Association was the first of hundreds of clubs and carnival organizations formed in New Orleans.

By the late 1830s, New Orleans held street processions of maskers with carriages and horseback riders to celebrate Mardi Gras. Dazzling gaslight torches or flambeaux lit the way for the krewe’s members and lent each event an exciting air of romance and festivity.

Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In 1856, six young Mobile natives formed the Mistick Krewe of Comus invoking John Milton’s hero Comus to represent their organization. Comus brought magic and mystery to New Orleans with dazzling floats (known as tableaux cars) and masked balls. Krewe members remained anonymous.

In 1870, Mardi Gras’ second Krewe, the Twelfth Night Revelers, was formed. This is also the first recorded account of Mardi Gras throws.

Mardi Gras costume display © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Newspapers began to announce Mardi Gras events in advance and they even printed Carnival Edition lithographs of parades’ fantastic float designs (after they rolled, of course, themes and floats were always carefully guarded before the procession). At first, these reproductions were small and details could not be clearly seen. But beginning in 1886 with Proteus’ parade Visions of Other Worlds these chromolithographs could be produced in full, saturated color, doing justice to the float and costume designs of Carlotta Bonnecase, Charles Briton, and B.A. Wikstrom. Each of these designers’ work was brought to life by talented Parisian paper-mache artist Georges Soulie who for 40 years was responsible for creating all of Carnival’s floats and processional outfits.

Mardi Gras arts and crafts © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

1872 was the year that a group of businessmen invented a King of Carnival, Rex to preside over the first daytime parade. To honor the visiting Russian Grand Duke Alexis Romanoff, the businessmen introduced Romanoff’s family colors of purple, green, and gold as Carnival’s official colors. Purple stands for justice, gold for power, and green for faith. This was also the Mardi Gras season that Carnival’s improbable anthem, If Ever I Cease to Love, was cemented, due in part to the Duke’s fondness for the tune.

The following year, floats began to be constructed entirely in New Orleans instead of France culminating with Comus’ magnificent The Missing Links to Darwin’s Origin of Species in which exotic paper-mache animal costumes served as the basis for Comus to mock both Darwin’s theory and local officials including Governor Henry Warmoth. In 1875, Governor Warmoth signed the Mardi Gras Act making Fat Tuesday a legal holiday in Louisiana which it still is.

Madre Gras display © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Like Comus and the Twelfth Night Revelers, most Mardi Gras krewes today developed from private social clubs with restrictive membership policies.

What was Mardi Gras like in 1898? Arthur Hardy who publishes an annual guide to the New Orleans celebration searched for decades to find out, looking for a film of the parade that year that was only rumored to exist. He finally found it nearly 5,000 miles away at the Eye Filmmuseum in Amsterdam. The footage which was recently shown at the Louisiana State Museum is the oldest-ever film of New Orleans. “This probably, in Louisiana film history, is the most important find,” said Louisiana film historian Ed Poole.

Mardi Gras arts and crafts © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Footage from the 1899 Mardi Gras shows that while Mardi Gras parades from over a century ago are in many ways similar to today’s, the festival has certainly evolved. For instance, while modern revelers often dress casually (and sometimes wear very little clothing at all), parade-goers in 1898 donned formal attire and carried parasols. People riding on floats were not throwing beads or coins into the crowd and no police or barricades were present for crowd control.

Mardi Gras parade © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

On the flipside, one tradition from 1898 has since disappeared: The traditional revelry of boeuf gras or fatted ox was once a live bull. The film shows an actual bovine perched atop one of the floats. This tradition ended in the early 20th century when officials decided it was “no longer tasteful.” Today’s parades opt instead for a papier-maché version.

It’s certainly grown and changed a bit but at its core, Mardi Gras is the same.

Mardi Gras costume display © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Future Mardi Gras Dates

February 13, 2024

March 4, 2025

February 17, 2026

February 9, 2027

February 29, 2028

February 13, 2029

March 5, 2030

Worth Pondering…

It’s a great party, and anyone who doesn’t enjoy Mardi Gras is not of this world.

—Franklin Alvarado

6 Most Haunted Cities in America and the Ghosts That Call Them Home

Are you brave enough to visit the most haunted cities in America?

Strange sounds, ghost apparitions, and whispers—these are just some of the accounts told by visitors of haunted cities around the U.S.

Tales of the supernatural world are fascinating at any time of year but the Halloween season kicks the ghostly atmosphere into high gear in many places across the U.S. One of the best ways to celebrate the spooky season is on a bone-chilling ghost tour. Here are six cities with some of the coolest, spookiest, and most illuminating ghost tours you can take in America.

Gettysburg National Military Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Gettysburg, Pennsylvania: The Blood of the Battlefield

Areas, where historic tragedies took place, are often considered paranormal hot spots, and the site of the Civil War’s bloodiest battle is regarded as one of the world’s most haunted places. Some report seeing the ghosts of soldiers on the battlefield and inns and a farm in the area are haunted, too.

Gettysburg National Military Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

During the day, visitors can take a self-guided audio tour around the battlefield—an excellent way to get one’s bearings and visit such ominously named locations as Devil’s Den which feels spooky even in broad daylight. After dark, choose from the many walking tours that visit paranormal spots around town and share tales of the epic Civil War battle. The Farnsworth House Inn hosts several guided ghost walks which include a presentation in its haunted cellar a tour of the Confederate Hospital and a visit to the old Union Cemetery. For a more family-friendly tour, try the Gettysburg History and Haunts Tour which is also wheelchair-accessible and pet-friendly.

Savannah © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Savannah, Georgia: Southern Goth

Southern gentility has a ghostly past in Savannah. The Mercer House was the home of Jim Williams, a voodoo-practicing antique dealer and the main character in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. The home is said to be haunted by the man he allegedly killed in a heated argument though he was acquitted in three separate trials.

Related article: Ghostly Experiences

Old Sorrel Weed House, Savannah © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Blue Orb Tours feature frequently on lists of best ghost tours in both the U.S. and around the world. Suitable for all ages, their 90-minute Savannah Shadows walk combines local history, Gullah folktales, and haunted sightings in the city’s otherwise charming downtown. The company also offers a two-hour Zombie Tour for adults only. Visitors to Savannah shouldn’t miss the Old Sorrel-Weed House (see photo above), a local landmark known for its paranormal past. Now a museum, it offers a popular Ghosts of Sorrel Weed Tour.

Louisiana cemetery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

New Orleans, Louisiana: The Most Haunted and Haunting

They say that on Halloween, the line between the dead and the living gets thinner than ever. In New Orleans, you’re not that far from the dead as the city’s cemeteries hang above ground year-round. After colonial times, slavery, voodoo, many wars, and most recently, Hurricane Katrina, the city counts its ghosts as regular residents.

Louisiana cemetery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

With dozens of reportedly haunted places, New Orleans is one of the country’s most haunted cities. By paranormal standards, New Orleans has it all: churches haunted by the spirits of former priests, former hospitals visited by soldiers who died but never truly passed on, and homes filled with ghosts of residents who died on the premises—not to mention all the vampire stories.

Related article: A Haunting Good Time: Your Guide to 5 Ghostly Cities Across America

The city also has its share of notable ghosts including author William Faulkner whose spirit is sometimes spotted at his former home-turned-bookstore Faulkner House Books. Old Absinthe House, open since the early 1800s, is supposedly haunted by Voodoo practitioner Marie Laveau, Andrew Jackson, and pirate Jean Lafitte, among others. St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is another paranormal hot spot, said to be haunted by hundreds of ghosts.

Louisiana cemetery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In the evenings, the streets of the historic French Quarter are filled with guided ghost tours. French Quarter Phantoms have several options available—after visiting the grave of Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau during their daytime tour of the cemetery join one of their evening rambles themed around “Saints and Sinners,” “Ghosts and Vampires,” or “French Quarter Voodoo.” Witches Brew also features several themed walks from vampires to ghosts or you can always join a haunted pub crawl—this is New Orleans, after all.

The Alamo © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

San Antonio, Texas: Angry Wraiths of the Past

San Antonio is considered one of the most haunted places in Texas because of the city’s history. Remember the Alamo? The ghosts of the Alamo will make sure you do. The Battle of the Alamo led to thousands of casualties and Alamo visitors and employees have reported seeing the ghosts of soldiers and hearing mysterious rally cries. The nearby Emily Morgan Hotel is one of the country’s most haunted hotels, too. The property was once a hospital and some guests now report seeing the apparition of a woman in white in the halls.

Mission San Juan © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Many buildings along the riverwalk are said to be haunted including the Alamo Street Restaurant and theater. Former actress Margaret Gething is said to watch performances from the balcony in a long flowing dress. A young boy named Eddie is said to bang around the kitchen and enjoys playing pranks.
A section of railroad tracks near the San Juan Mission is said to be haunted by the ghosts of children who were killed more than 50 years ago when their bus stalled on the tracks. It is said that any car that stops near the tracks will be pushed by unseen hands across the tracks—to avoid a similar fate.

Charleston © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Charleston, South Carolina: Hauntings in the Holy City

Charleston is one of those good ’ole Southern cities where there’s so much history—from the Civil War to pirates and voodoo—the ghosts never want to leave. Plus, two rivers run through it providing liquid fuel for a ghostly fire.

Related article: A Creepy, Spooky, Ghostly, Haunted Road Trip

The downtown area known as The Battery was an artillery installation during the Civil War. Guests at the Battery Carriage House Inn may find their room already taken—some male guests have reported waking to see a man standing by their bed while some female guests have reported a male ghost, ahem, in their bed.

The Dock Street Theatre is also said to have two eerie visitors from the past—the ghost of actor Junius Brutus Booth, the father of Lincoln’s assassin, John Wilkes Booth, and the ghost of a prostitute the locals call “Nettie.”

Charleston © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In all, there are more than 20 places thought to be haunted and sure to send a tingle up your spine. With a tumultuous three centuries under its belt, Charleston has seen its fair share of paranormal activity. Combining ghost stories that are firmly rooted in local lore with more recent sightings, the Ghosts of the South tour is a wildly popular guided stroll through old Charleston. The tour delves into the city’s history, stopping at haunted hotels, houses, and graveyards throughout a mile circuit. It’s not recommended for children under 10. 

Ashton Villa © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Galveston, Texas: A Port of Unfortunate Souls

Galveston has had pirates, hurricanes, murders, and more in its long history. The paranormal activity is off the charts in several spots around the city. The Bishop’s Palace survived the deadly 1900 hurricane, a source of many of the city’s ghosts, and now the building is haunted by its worried owner. The Ashton Villa Mansion has several ghosts-in-residence thanks to its Civil Era hospital roots.

Bishop’s Palace © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

This small island off the coast of Houston has not just one, but three ghost tour operators. The oldest and largest is The Ghost Tours of Galveston run by Dash Beardsley, “The Ghost Man of Galveston.” Beardsley runs four tours, the most popular of which explores the historic ghost stories of the Strand where Confederate soldiers are rumored to appear on rooftops.

Related article: Explore Arizona’s Spooky, Haunted Ghost Towns

The Strand © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

But ghosts are plentiful throughout Galveston—given the port city’s checkered history. Six thousand residents were killed here in the Great Storm of 1900 and during the Civil War wounded soldiers were treated in the buildings lining downtown. Add to that the odd unlucky gambler haunting the Tremont Hotel or the tragic (and dead) bride-to-be walking the halls of Hotel Galvez and you’ve got a bona fide haunted town. And head to the Haunted Mayfield Manor for a lighter Halloween-themed attraction.

Worth Pondering…

I’m just a ghost in this house
I’m shadow upon these walls,
As quietly as a mouse
I haunt these halls.

—Allison Krauss, Ghost in This House

The Ultimate Coastal South Road Trip: From New Orleans to Savannah

Discover the sights, sounds, and tastes along this Coastal South road trip

The dog days of summer are the perfect time to embark on a great American road trip.

One such road trip links two of the South’s most historic and poetic cities: New Orleans and Savannah.

Cajun cuisine © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Along the route, explore the Gulf Coast—balmy shores full of quirky beach towns, Cajun culinary magic, and breweries—as well as the white-sand beaches of the Eastern Seaboard between Florida and Georgia.

Pack your sunscreen and bathing suit, and throw on a blues and Southern rock playlist. This weeklong road trip through America’s warmest (both in climate and culture) region awaits.

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Start your trip in New Orleans

The Big Easy. N’awlins. The Birthplace of Jazz.

New Orleans is one of America’s most storied and with deep French, Spanish, and African roots culturally distinctive cities. As the saying goes, New Orleanians are perpetually either throwing a party or recovering from one. For those seeking revelry, look no further than the French Quarter or Frenchmen Street—the latter is also one of the best places in New Orleans for live music.

Like Las Vegas, New Orleans doesn’t have open-container laws. So snag yourself a daiquiri while you stroll and admire the city’s inimitable architecture, street music, and local characters.

Related article: The Ultimate Deep South Road Trip: Savannah to Charleston

Dine at one of New Orleans’ legendary restaurants—perhaps Commander’s Palace, Arnaud’s, or Galatoire’s.

Bay St. Lewis © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Bay St. Louis, Mississippi

Bay St. Louis is about an hour and a half east of New Orleans.

As with Louisiana, the French colonized these shores in the late 17th century. I recommend taking Highway 90 from New Orleans. This route follows the coastline and is far more scenic than the slightly more expedient Interstate 10.

Bay St. Lewis © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

After the revelry of New Orleans, Bay St. Louis, a quiet and breezy beach town is the ideal place to catch your breath.

For those interested in blues history visit 100 Men Hall. This hallowed music venue has hosted the likes of James Brown, Etta James, and Muddy Waters. The current owner, Rachel Dangermond continues to host musicians and uses the hall for events in support of coastal Mississippi’s African American community.

The gorgeous Pearl Hotel overlooks the ocean and sits within easy walking distance of the restaurants, beach bars, and ice cream parlors of Bay St. Louis. Right across from Pearl Hotel is The Blind Tiger, a beach bar serving up delicious “royal reds,” deep-water shrimp, a coastal Mississippi delicacy.

Bay St. Lewis © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Gulfport, Mississippi

Driving east from Bay St. Louis, you’ll soon arrive in Gulfport.

Be sure to start the morning with a coffee and plate of biscuits at Fill-Up with Billups, an old-fashioned gas station converted into a diner.

Related article: The Underrated Coast

Boasting a dozen well-known casinos, Gulfport is a popular gaming destination. But if gambling isn’t your thing, Gulfport also boasts world-class charter fishing and is home to Chandeleur Island Brewery.

Bay St. Lewis © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Biloxi, Mississippi

About 30 minutes down the coast from Gulfport is Biloxi, the Playground of the South.

Long renowned for the abundant shrimp, oysters, and crabs of its warm waters Biloxi suffered tremendous destruction from Hurricane Katrina.

Now, nearly 20 years later, Biloxi is on the rise again with a slew of busy casinos, booming commercial and recreational fishing industries, and killer dining and drinking. If you’ve had your fill of gambling, take a shrimp boat tour with Capt. Mike at Biloxi Shrimping Trip. He takes passengers out into Biloxi Bay to learn about the world’s favorite crustacean.

Mississippi Welcome Center © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Ocean Springs, Mississippi

Just east of Biloxi Bay, this small town is a leafy artists’ colony that punches well above its weight for dining, coffee, and nightlife. It’s sprawling with live oaks and buildings bedecked with wrought-iron balconies and the old French influence is palpable.

Buccaneer State Park, Mississippi © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Ocean Springs comes alive at night. To find a bustling patio bar and live music, just walk up Main Street after dark. Check out Maison de Lu for excellent French-inspired seafood with a Gulf twist. And don’t leave Ocean Springs without getting a cup of joe at Bright-Eyed Brew Co., a local roastery adored by both visitors and locals.

Mobile © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Mobile, Alabama

Continuing east and crossing state lines, Mobile is about an hour from Ocean Springs.

Related article: Experience the Alabama Gulf Coast along the Coastal Connection Scenic Byway

If you have time, keep to coastal Highway 90—it’s a much prettier drive than the inland Interstate 10 as noted previously.

Mobile Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

As with New Orleans, Biloxi, and most older Gulf Coast settlements, the French founded Mobile in the late 17th century. Mobile also claims to be home to North America’s oldest Mardi Gras.

Beer aficionados should check out Braided River Brewing Co., a recently opened brewery that’s already garnering national awards.

Hank Aaron Childhood Home © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

If you’re a sports fan be sure to pay homage to one of the great ones at the Hank Aaron Childhood Home and Museum located adjacent to Hank Aaron Stadium. Aaron was one of the best to ever play this game. Aaron played 23 seasons. He came to the plate almost 14,000 times. He hit .305 with 755 home runs and 6,856 total bases—more than 700 total bases beyond everyone else. The gap between Aaron and No. 2 on the list, Stan Musial, is more than 12 miles worth of bases.

Fairhope © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Fairhope, Alabama

Consistently ranked as one of the nation’s coolest small towns, Fairhope is an upscale beach town about an hour southeast of Mobile. With wooden piers stretching out over blue waters, white-sand beaches, and gorgeous architecture, Fairhope is a town that seduces visitors to stay permanently. What’s more, Fairhope boasts some of the South’s best restaurants. Check out Tamara’s Downtown for scrumptious Gulf Coast delicacies.

Fairhope is undeniably posh (golf carts are the preferred means of transportation here). However, it also has a funky side, evidenced by the ample coffee shops, breweries, and the fact that the town once had a flourishing nudist colony.

Tallahassee, Florida

Welcome to the Sunshine State!

Tallahassee is about three hours east of Fairhope. Home to nearly 35,000 college students, Florida’s capital is one of the country’s most notorious college towns. As you would expect with an overpopulation of 18-to-22-year-olds, Tallahassee brims with rowdy bars, late-night eateries, and youthful verve.

Amelia Island near Jacksonville © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Jacksonville, Florida

Another 2½ hours of driving will take you from Tallahassee to Jacksonville and the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Jax is the largest city in the U.S. in terms of geographical breadth. It’s also the hometown of Southern rock legends the Allman Brothers Band and Lynyrd Skynyrd.

In Jacksonville, the characteristic form of the Florida beach—that is, powdery white sand against placid, turquoise water—is fully realized. Not to mention that Jacksonville’s beaches are far less crowded than those farther south. For fun in the sun, head to Neptune Beach near downtown Jacksonville.

Savannah © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Savannah, Georgia

Head north up the coast for about two hours to reach Savannah, the final stop on our jaunt through the coastal South. Savannah is one of the oldest cities in the U.S. and boasts some of the most stunning examples of the South’s grandiose pre-Civil War architecture.

Savannah © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Unlike Atlanta, a city Gen. Sherman burned to the ground during the Civil War, the Union Army spared Savannah its torches—some say because Sherman had a local mistress who convinced him that her city was too beautiful to destroy. Either way, posterity is grateful that Savannah remained intact as the Historic District—with its stately fountains, mansions, and lush public parks—is a national treasure.

Related article: The Perfect Georgia Coast Road Trip

St. Marys, Georgia (just north of the Florida/Georgia state line) © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Bottom line

Whether your thing is American history, beautiful cities, fabulous cuisine, or gorgeous beaches, the coastal South makes for a fantastic road trip.

This route links the old and superlatively poetic cities of New Orleans and Savannah. It shows you the best of coastal Mississippi, the Gulf Coast, North Florida, and the southern reaches of the Eastern Seaboard.

Worth Pondering…

The journey not the arrival matters.

—T. S. Eliot

10 Things You Might Not Know About Mardi Gras

Everywhere else, it’s just a Tuesday

Mardi Gras. Two little words with an infinitely large explanation.  For different people, it means different things—an event, an idea, a day, a way of life, a piece of history, a state holiday, or a million parades, and countless memories. Think you know Mardi Gras? That it’s all about booze and beads? Think again! 

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Of the hundreds of Louisiana festivals, none tops Mardi Gras. Spectacular parades, unbelievable costumes, music, dancing, food, drink—take your pick of places to indulge and enjoy. The biggest celebration occurs in New Orleans but nearly every community in the state and beyond has its own version of the annual party. Wherever you go, you can find the style that best suits you, including tons of family-style celebrations.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

What is Mardi Gras? Do you know the meaning of krewe? Or where to get one-of-a-kind beads? Here are 10 things to know about Mardi Gras to make your Carnival the best!

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

1. Carnival is a Season; Mardi Gras is a day

Sure, we all do it. “Yea, I’m going to New Orleans for Mardi Gras!” we say when we’re actually going to see parades the weekend before Mardi Gras or the weekend before that. Technically, “Mardi Gras” is the last Tuesday before Ash Wednesday and ushers in 40 days of best behavior during Lent, and “Carnival” is the season that begins on the Feast of Epiphany.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Mardi Gras 2022 falls on Tuesday, March 1, 2022. The official start of Carnival Season is Twelfth Night, January 6.

A krewe (pronounced the same way as “crew”) is an organization that puts on a parade and/or a ball for the Carnival season.

Bonus Fun Fact: Mardi Gras is a legal holiday in Louisiana and has been since 1875 when Governor Warmoth signed the “Mardi Gras Act.”

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

2. Your Dog Will Love Mardi Gras

Dogs just want to have fun! And that’s what they get at their very own parades in New Orleans, Baton Rouge, the Louisiana Northshore, and more locations! These animal-dedicated parades show off the fun and revelry from our furriest of friends and do they look cute.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

New Orleans’ French Quarter goes to the dogs at the annual Krewe of Barkus where dogs and their owners dress up in cute, crazy costumes.

Related Article: Joe Cain, Moon Pies & Mobile Mardi Gras

Shreveport goes to the dogs (literally) at the Krewe of Barkus and Meoux Parade. Head to Old Reeves Marine to see the pups strut their stuff and feel free to bring your own. The cuteness of this parade will have you telling everyone “Happy Mardi Paw!”

Start planning your dog’s costume for the celebration.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

3. Mardi Gras Is for Families

There are many activities and Mardi Gras parades that are family-friendly. In New Orleans, there are a few favorite family parade-watching spots which include St. Charles and Napoleon Streets. As you explore the state, you’ll find that many Louisiana cities host huge Mardi Gras celebrations with brightly colored floats and marching bands that are perfectly appropriate for the whole family.

Lafayette goes big with its Mardi Gras festivities and two of the family-friendly highlights are the annual Children’s Parade and the Krewe of Bonaparte.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

4. The Best Ways to Get Parade Goods Aren’t Always Obvious

Sure, you could say, “Throw me something, mister!” or you could stick your cute kid on your shoulders but if you really want to test your suitcases’ weight limit, head to the end of the parade. You’ll be showered by effervescent float-riders with a single goal: chuck all bags of beads off before they get off the float themselves.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

5. You never know what they’ll Throw

Bathroom humor never grows old, as evidenced by the irreverent joy of Krewe of Tucks riders including the King’s Throne (a giant toilet) float! The screaming crowds line the street begging for their bathroom-themed throws including monogrammed toilet paper, sunglasses shaped like toilets, mini-plungers, and more.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In Shreveport, you’ll love the Krewe of Highland who throw a new surprise each Carnival season. The first of Krewe’s famously unusual throws began with candy canes in its founding year. Over the years, throws have included recycled beads, rubber chickens, Beanie Babies, and food, from spaghetti and meatballs in Ziploc bags to pickles, hot dogs, Capri Suns pouches, Ramen Noodles, MoonPies, and even coined money. The throws are as exciting as the floats from which they’re thrown; every year brings a new surprise to parade go-ers, screaming, “Throw me something, Mister!”

Anyone can come home with beads. Only those “in the know” get miniature squirting toilets and dinner.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

6. The Best Parades Aren’t Necessarily the Biggest

You can’t get any smaller than ’tit Rex, New Orleans first and only MicroKrewe. A group of artists, business people, teachers, workers, and bon vivants founded ‘tit Rəx in 2009 in a response to the super krewes constantly setting records for floats, throws, and extravagance.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

‘tit Rəx takes an opposite approach focusing instead of on massive floats that take up entire blocks, the ‘tit Rəx floats are made from shoeboxes and found objects that look like full-size floats. Carnival throws are handed out by krewe members rather than tossed, since—in keeping with the theme of the parade—they are so tiny.

Related Article: How to Celebrate Mardi Gras in 2021?

The parade’s name comes from the Cajun abbreviation of petite, used as a prefix before the name of the smaller or younger of two people who share a first name.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

7. Why They Throw Beads at Mardi Gras?

Legend has it that in the 1880s, a man dressed as Santa Claus received such fame throwing beads, that other krewes followed suit. Makes sense, seeing as, before that, krewes threw any manner of items including food and dirt. Today, krewes buy plastic beads en masse which parade-goers prefer over dirt! Locals still love to see throws of tiny glass bead strands which are rare and seemed to have phased out in the 1960s and 1970s.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

8. The Weight of Revelry

Think your suitcase is heavy? Officials estimate upwards of 25 million pounds of Mardi Gras items get tossed from floats. In fact, locals like to visit the Arc of New Orleans and recycle their beads for next year. It is a 67-year-old non-profit organization dedicated to advancing the independence and well-being of people with intellectual and developmental disabilities.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

9. Royalty is Often Top Secret

Ever see the term “Mystic Krewe” and wonder what that means? Many Mardi Gras Krewes use “mystique” or “mystic” in their titles, meaning krewes will not reveal the identities of their royalty until they’re presented at the royal ball. King, Queens, and Maids are often sworn to secrecy all year until they’re able to make their grand debut.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

10. Mardi Gras is More Than New Orleans

When you hear “Mardi Gras” do you only think of New Orleans? Think again. Mardi Gras is celebrated around the state! Cajun Mardi Gras (yes, there is a Cajun spin on Mardi Gras) can be found in the Lafayette and Eunice area. In Baton Rouge, parades roll many weekends before and during Mardi Gras. Plan to experience some family-friendly Mardi Gras fun in Alexandria, Lake Charles, Monroe, and many other locations throughout the state.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Be sure to explore the small cities and towns of South Louisiana such as Houma and Thibodaux as every region has its own way of celebrating the carnival season.

Related Article: Cool-As-Hell Louisiana Towns You Need to Visit (Besides New Orleans)

And don’t forget where it all began in America. In 1703, the tiny settlement of Fort Louis de la Mobile celebrated America’s very first Mardi Gras, 15 years before New Orleans was established.

Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Now that you are well versed in Carnival knowledge, it’s time to plan your trip to visit the Bayou State and “let the good times roll.”

Worth Pondering…

But, after all, if, as a child, you saw, every Mardi Gras, the figure of Folly chasing Death around the broken column of Life, beating him on the back with a Fool’s Scepter from which dangled two gilded pig bladders; or the figure of Columbus dancing drunkenly on top of a huge revolving globe of the world; or Revelry dancing on an enormous upturned wine glass—wouldn’t you see the world in different terms, too?

—Eugene Walter, The Untidy Pilgrim

Joe Cain, Moon Pies & Mobile Mardi Gras

Mobile dates its Mardi Gras to 1703, a decade and a half before New Orleans was founded

Chief Slacabamorinico would have been proud.

The Chickasaw leader was “reincarnated” by Mobile resident Joe Cain in 1866 as a rebellion against occupying Union forces.

The Civil War had brought a halt to Mardi Gras celebrations, and in April 1865, Union troops took control of the city.

Mobile celebrates Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Mobile’s Mardi Gras festivities resumed unexpectedly the following year when Joseph Stillwell Cain, a local clerk and former member of the Tea Drinkers Mystic Society, led a parade through the occupied city dressed as a fictional Indian named Chief Slackabamarinico.

Cain exuberantly declared an end to Mobile’s suffering and signaled the return of the city’s parading activities, to the delight of local residents. He also succeeded in moving Mobile’s celebration from New Year’s Eve to the traditional Fat Tuesday. 

During and after Reconstruction, Mardi Gras became the premier event of the city’s social elite and a way of celebrating the “Lost Cause.” New societies representing different portions of the city’s diverse population began to appear.

The Order of Myths (OOM), established in 1867, chose as its emblem Folly chasing Death around a broken column, imagery that was seen by many as a symbol of the “Lost Cause.” At the end of the traditional OOM parade, Death is defeated, and Folly wins the day.

In 1870, a group of young men between the ages of 18 and 21 formed the Infant Mystics, probably because they were too young to join other societies. The Knights of Revelry, formed in 1874. Their emblem of Folly dancing in a champagne glass between two crescent moons remains a familiar site during Mardi Gras parades.

Mobile celebrates Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Mobile has been doing it ever since and they mark the annual occasion with majestic parades, colorful floats, and flying Moon Pies.

When people think of Mardi Gras, they think of New Orleans. But long before there even was a New Orleans, Mobile was celebrating Mardi Gras in the run-up to Ash Wednesday.

Mobile dates its Mardi Gras to 1703, a decade and a half before New Orleans was founded. The raucous annual celebration originated in the Port City, not in the Crescent City.

Mardi Gras celebrations begin two and a half weeks before Fat Tuesday and Mobile comes to life. Elaborate themed floats manned by masked mystic societies, mounted police and marching bands wind through downtown Mobile and surrounding areas, entertaining nearly a million revelers each year.

Many of the mystic societies hold annual formal balls. Some of the balls are private, open only to members and their families; others sell tickets to guests. Membership rules vary. Members need to be born into some societies; other groups invite residents to join, and still others accept anyone who pays the dues.

A specific decorum regarding gown design for royalty still prevails, according to the late Gordon Tatum Jr., former curator of the Mobile Carnival Museum.

Mobile celebrates Mardi Gras © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

“Cover the ankles,” he said. “It may be split to San Francisco, but cover the ankles.”

The cost for robes, gowns, and scepters, as well as full-out partying, is only governed by how deep Daddy’s pockets are. The museum’s least expensive outfit is estimated at $40,00.

Mobile has decreed that moon pies are the official throwing treat from Mardi Gras floats (too many people were being conked on the head by hard candy).

The Mobile Carnival is a family-friendly time of parties, balls, parades, and revelry.

Find your spot and get ready to catch Moon Pies, beads, and trinkets. And not to forget the man who kept Mardi Gras alive, Joe Cain Day is observed the Sunday before Fat Tuesday. 

The party has started in Downtown Mobile and will end with Fat Tuesday on February 13.

Worth Pondering…

But, after all, if, as a child, you saw, every Mardi Gras, the figure of Folly chasing Death around the broken column of Life, beating him on the back with a Fool’s Scepter from which dangled two gilded pig bladders; or the figure of Columbus dancing drunkenly on top of a huge revolving globe of the world; or Revelry dancing on an enormous upturned wine glass -wouldn’t you see the world in different terms, too?

—Eugene Walter, The Untidy Pilgrim