organ pipe cactus - RVing with Rex

The Complete Guide to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

Scenic drives, hiking and camping await adventurers who seek solitude

Arizona takes its desert seriously! Arizona is the only state with a national park and a national monument dedicated to protecting cactus. And while plenty of folks explore the two segments of Saguaro National Park bracketing Tucson, far fewer venture to the remote outpost of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

Organ Pipe sits on the border with Mexico, far enough from population centers that it receives only a moderate trickle of visitors. Yet the monument preserves more than 500 square miles of lovely Sonoran Desert. Gentle valleys that bristle with forests of saguaros stretch between ranges of craggy mountains. More than 90 percent of the terrain is designated wilderness.

Organ Pipe National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Cacti

There are 31 species of cacti in the monument from the giant saguaro to the miniature pincushion all well adapted to survive the harsh desert climate. Spines give protection and shade, thick waxy stems seal in water, and photosynthesis happens at night to keep precious water from evaporating.

Keep an eye on the ground for the unique remnants of long-passed desert icons. The internal woody frames or “skeletons, ribs, and bones” of these cacti are left behind after the plant dies. Tall column-like “columnar” cacti such as saguaro, organ pipe, and senita leave behind long and straight woody ribs. Cholla skeletons are woody tubes with holes. Small cacti like the pincushion may leave behind a nest of entwined spines that hold the cactus’s shape long after the rest of plant is gone.

Unlike the stately saguaro that rises in a single trunk, the organ pipe is a furious clutter of segments shooting up from the base, a cactus forever in celebratory mode—throwing its arms in the air like it just doesn’t care. A striking resemblance to the pipes of a church organ prompted its moniker. The monument is one of the few spots where the large cactus grows north of the Mexican border.

Organ pipe cactus

This many-limbed cactus is the monument’s namesake and for good reason. The monument hosts the northernmost wild growing members of the organ pipe cactus (Stenocereus thurberi). This species relies on and provides food for some important animals here. The endangered lesser long-nosed bat (Leptonycteris curasoae) and the white-winged dove feed on the nectar through the night and following day and pollinate the plants. Fruit is consumed and seeds are dispersed by bats, birds, and Sonoran bighorn sheep as well as human inhabitants. This species can live for about 150 years.

Organ pipe cactus sends many columnar stems out from the base occasionally sprouting additional limbs from higher up branches. The 5-15 feet tall limbs have 12-19 prominent ridges running its length and groups of black spines.

During the middle of summer, flower buds will appear blossoming white to pink flowers for just one night and into the next day before drying up. Fruits are round, thin-skinned, reddish, and covered in small spines. The monument is the northernmost extent of the organ pipe’s range and they tend to grow on southern slopes to maximize sun exposure.

The organ pipe cactus is known as pitaya dulce in Spanish meaning “sweet pitaya” or sweet cactus fruit. Its tennis ball-sized fruit is said to taste better than watermelon and is made up of red flesh.

Preserving an ecosystem

President Franklin Delano Roosevelt declared Organ Pipe a national monument in 1937. For more than 80 years the park has showcased plants and animals of the Sonoran Desert. The decades of added protection are evident in the towering groves of saguaros that have been allowed to flourish, the hordes of organ pipes crowding the slopes, and the numerous other species that have thrived here.

In 1976, the United Nations recognized the diversity of the monument by naming it an International Biosphere Reserve. The designation has attracted scientists from around the world to conduct studies on this intact ecosystem.

Distance to Organ Pine National Monument

Why: 5 miles
Ajo: 15 miles
Gila Bend: 58 miles
Phoenix: 127 miles
Tucson: 128 miles
Yuma: 172 miles

Need to know

Entrance fee: $15-25, valid for 7 days
Operating hours: Open year-round, 24 hours a day
Kris Eggle Visitor Center: Open 7 days a week from 8 am to 4 pm
Safety: The monument shares 31 miles of international border with Mexico. Always be aware of your surroundings. If you see any activity that looks illegal, suspicious or out of place, do not intervene. Note your location. Call 911 or report it to a ranger as quickly as possible.

Sound of silence

It’s the quiet that first grabs your attention. That’s the plain, simple music of Organ Pipe. This is the place for anyone looking to escape the hubbub of civilization. Scenic drives loop through rugged terrain and hiking trails weave among the cactus exploring lonely canyons and crossing rough mountain slopes. Welcome to wild country.

Start at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center, named to honor the fallen park ranger who was shot and killed by drug smugglers. There’s a gift shop inside along with interpretive exhibits and a short video presentation. Rangers can answer questions. They conduct daily talks at 11 am, 2, and 3:30 pm. Guided walks, van tours, and other programs are available through the winter months.

Most activities revolve around the visitor center near the south end of the park. The Twin Peaks Campground with its network of trails is nearby. The hike to the remains of Victoria Mine (4.4 miles round trip) is a popular introduction to the desert. The two primary scenic drives also depart from here.

The Ajo Mountain Drive is a 21-mile one-way loop that puts some of the park’s best scenery on display. The graded gravel road suitable for sedans climbs from the valley floor into the foothills of the Ajo Mountains. It skirts past carved canyons and steep walls of cliffs. Picnic tables and hiking trails are accessible along this route. Don’t miss this drive.

By the way, I have written Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument: Ajo Mountain Drive.

The other popular route is Puerto Blanco Drive. This 37-mile loop circles the Puerto Blanco Mountains and offers expansive views. A half-day is required to make the full drive and four-wheel drive is required for certain segments. But visitors can easily reach Pinkley Peak Picnic Area as a short out and back on the north side.

Hiking in the “Green Desert”

Hiking is a great way to exercise while exploring the surprisingly lush Sonoran Desert either by yourself or with your family. There are miles and miles of trails laced around Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. Some are easy, others are strenuous, most of them fall somewhere in between; Organ Pipe Cactus has trails for everyone.

For backpackers or those seeking to adventure in an unexplored area, some of the best hiking is off the beaten trails and out in the canyons with only a map and compass to guide you. Ask a ranger at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center or learn more about the different trails below and see what’s right for you.

Remember when hiking in the desert to carry plenty of water and avoid hiking during the hottest parts of the day. Always take sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, plenty of water, and other hiking necessities.

To help preserve the natural beauty of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, follow the Leave No Trace principles. Bring a bag to carry out your trash including food scraps to ensure that the park remains clean and safe for wildlife and future visitors.

Hike for Health Challenge

Hike the Green Desert and earn a reward for being active in Organ Pipe Cactus! The “I Hike for Health” challenge will reward you for hitting the trails and achieving distance goals. By hiking 5 miles of trails, visitors are presented with a “Hike for Health” pin as a momento of their treks across Organ Pipe Cactus. Stop by the Kris Eggle Visitor Center to pick up the rules and receive your pin.
Hiking is a great way to exercise and stay in shape. For every mile you walk, you will burn around 70 calories (1/2 candy bar). Count your steps at home and challenge yourself to keep hiking in the over 400 units of the National Park System not only for your enjoyment but for your health too!

More parks offering “I Hike for Health” pins In Arizona include:

Hiking trails

Organ Pipe Cactus has over 28 miles in established trails to explore! Several of these trails are pet-friendly or ADA accessible for everyone to enjoy! Ask a ranger at the visitor center for more information about the trails.

Visitor Center Nature Trail

Length: 0.1 mile roundtrip
Details: This ADA accessible, pet-friendly brick path begins at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center and loops to the parking lot. It features exhibits and a sitting area near a small pond with Quitobaquito pupfish.

Desert View Trail

Length: 1.2 miles roundtrip
Details: This easy loop trail is ideal for sunrises and sunsets featureing beautiful vistas and benches to sit and enjoy them along the trail. Exhibits that highlight the various plants in the area are found along the trail.

Arch Canyon

Length: 1.2 miles roundtrip
Details: This easy trail steadily climbs into a lush canyon. The double arch may be seen at the beginning of the trail and visitors may climb the unmaintained trail to hike to the arch and enjoy the oak-juniper environment of the sky island.

Palo Verde Trail

Length: 2.6 miles roundtrip
Details: While not officially ADA accessible this pet-friendly dirt trail is relatively level for 1/2 mile if started from the visitor center trailhead and is an easy hike between the visitor center and Twin Peaks Campground.

Alamo Canyon

Length: 1.8 miles roundtrip
Details: This scenic trail leads out of Alamo Canyon Campground and is great for birding and is an easy hike to the old ranching sites. Drop into the wash at the end for a “make your own adventure” experience!

Bull Pasture

Length: 3 miles roundtrip
Details: This strenuous trail can be done as a loop with the Estes Canyon Trail. The beginning of the trail climbs 500 feet to exposed cliffs with spectacular views of Mexico and the monument providing a well-deserved reward.

Estes Canyon

Length: 3.2 miles roundtrip
Details: This moderate trail is great for birding and owling. Visitors hike through the relatively flat base of Estes Canyon crossing several washes until the switchback climb to the Bull Pasture trail.

Birding

Organ Pipe Cactus is a fantastic place for bird watching. The monument is home to hundreds of bird species, some that are permanent residents and many migratory birds passing through to Mexico or further north.

Tips for birding

Patience is the key: birders know that birding does not always mean finding. The longer you can look, the more likely you may discover a soaring caracara passing by above you!

Areas that hold water are usually good during periods of extended dryness. Tinajas are small depressions found in washes that hold water for long periods and wildlife is often found near them during the dry times of year using them as a place to drink. Watch for an explosion of birds out of bushes as you approach.

Talk with a ranger at the visitor center. At least one birder is usually on duty and may be able to help fine-tune your trip. And remember, most of the migratory birds are on their way to someplace else just like the visitors who also move on to other destinations.

Good places for birding

Birders who visit the monument and rangers who love checking off new birds from their “life list” provide great insight as to where the best birding areas are around the monument. Below are some suggested areas to explore with information on what kind of birds you may spot in that location.

Twin Peaks Campground, Organ Pipe National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Kris Eggle Visitor Center

The “Ciénega”, a small pond with Quitobaquito pupfish is located near the visitor center just outside the back patio along the nature trail. It’s a prime spot for bird watching as it provides a water source for the wildlife in the monument. Expect to see quite a variety of smaller birds such as verdin, cactus wrens, and phainopeplas stopping by to enjoy the water and rest in the trees and cacti nearby.

The picnic area out front of the visitor center also makes a great place to bird watch while enjoying a meal. Its location near a desert wash provides views of many birds that enjoy the thick vegetation and large trees found near the ephemeral water source.

Twin Peaks Campground

This spacious campground is lush with desert vegetation that attracts all variety of wildlife. You might be able to add a Scott’s Oriole or Gambel’s quail to your list and vultures and hawks are often seen around the area in search of a good meal. Listen for owls and common poorwills particularly after evening programs when the weather is warm.

Ajo Mountain Drive

Several bird of prey species including Cooper’s and Harris hawks can be seen soaring around the mountains. The canyon crevices along Estes Canyon provide homes to many species of owl. Canyon towhees, black-throated sparrows, and many more birds enjoy the canyon areas especially around the washes.

Alamo Canyon

Perhaps the best birding area in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is in Alamo Canyon. This verdant trail testifies to increased rainfall in this part of the monument and during Monsoon Summer the wash if often running drawing birds in search of insects and berries.

Towards the end of the trail (0.9 miles one-way) is a great area with shade near the wash to spot birds. Pass the first ranch building and you’ll cross the wash to the trail on the other side; if hiking during monsoon summer, a bit of rock hopping may be in order to get to the other side. Follow the trail a bit and you’ll pass another old ranch building on the left, then a stock tub and water tank. Take the trail to the wash and sit down on a rock. Red-tailed hawks are often seen here and Lucy’s warbler has been seen near mesquite trees in early April.

Stargazing

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument has some of the most pristine dark skies free of light pollution in the entire United States making it a perfect place to stargaze, set up the telescopes for deep sky viewing, shoot some astrophotography, spot the space station, or just enjoy the music of the night. Ask a ranger about great places to view the night sky at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center.

During the winter season (December through mid-April) Organ Pipe Cactus has Dark Sky programming for visitors. Ask a ranger at the visitor center or check the event calendar during the winter season to see if there are any dark sky programs happening during your time in the monument.

Camping

Visitors can choose from two campgrounds in the national monument—Twin Peaks Campground and Alamo Campground. Here one can camp amid the organ pipe and saguaro cacti surrounded by a serene desert landscape.

They have different amenities and offer campers a choice between modern comforts and rustic wilderness. You may see the desert dark sky subtlety illuminated by countless stars or shadows that are awakened under a full moon’s glow at either campground. Songs of coyotes or the hum of a breeze may lull you to sleep. Awaken with a blazing sunrise and hike one of the trails that begin at the campgrounds.

Campsites at Twin Peaks Campground (including the group sites) and Alamo Canyon Campground are reserved through recreation.gov. Campsites may be reserved the same day and up to six months in advance. During the busy season (December-April) the campgrounds fill quickly making reservations highly advisable. Backcountry camping permits must be made at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center.

Twin Peaks Campground

Twin Peaks Campground is located just over one mile from the Kris Eggle Visitor Center in the Sonoran Desert and each campsite is surrounded by beautiful desert plants. It has 34 tent-only sites and 174 sites for RVs. Several sites can accommodate RVs up to 45 feet in length. Sites 1-112 permit the use of generators. Hookups for electricity, water, or sewer are not available.

Restrooms have running water and three have free solar-heated showers. A dump station with potable water is located past the last row of campsites towards the back of the campground.

Camping fees are $20 per night and holders of the Senior or Access Pass receive a 50 percent discount. Generator hours are 8 am to 11 am and 3 pm to 6 pm.

Alamo Canyon Campground

Alamo Canyon Campground is a primitive campground nestled near Alamo Canyon. It has four tent-only sites that are surrounded by a quiet desert landscape. There is a vault toilet available in the campground and bulletin boards with information. Water is not available and no RVs or fires are permitted.

Camping reservations are $16 per night and holders of the Senior or Access Pass receive a 50 percent discount on camping

The revitalization of Ajo

Organ Pipe is bordered by the small towns of Why on the northern edge and Lukeville to the south, the entry point to Mexico. Each community offers gas, a convenience store, and a restaurant.

Lodging is available in Ajo, a former mining town 16 miles north of the park. While Ajo is still trying to find its way forward after the loss of the mine, it seems to be moving in a good direction with a focus on the arts and restoration of historic architecture. The graceful town plaza is a centerpiece project.

Few Arizona communities have such a striking front yard. The Spanish Colonial Revival-style plaza surrounds a park of lush green lawn and tall palm trees. Anchored at one end by the old train depot now housing the visitor center, an eclectic collection of shops fills in the other two sides of the square with white-washed walls, arched walkways, and a continuous red tile roof.

Directly across from the plaza are two Mission-style churches almost blinding in the desert sun.

A block away, the historic Curley School has been renovated into live-work apartments for a community of artists. The presence of so many creative folks may explain the colorful murals both historical and fanciful splashed on walls throughout town.

The town’s newest addition is the Sonoran Desert Inn and Conference Center where classrooms at the old elementary school have been converted into stylish accommodations. The inn is wrapped around a spacious courtyard overlooking full gardens. Guestrooms are done in a contemporary Southwestern style with natural light streaming through tall windows. The inn is operated by the International Sonoran Desert Alliance, the non-profit behind the renovations at the town plaza and Curley School.

Another overnight option is La Siesta Motel & RV Resort north of town. This classic motor court features recently remodeled rooms that are spotlessly clean, cabins in the back, heated swimming pool and RV park.

Dining choices are limited but 100 Estrella serves big juicy burgers, fresh salads, and a surprising selection of craft beers on tap (100 W. Estrella Ave., 520-387-3110).

A farmers market is held from 9 a.m. to noon Saturdays at the plaza. It features locally grown vegetables along with prepared dishes and arts and crafts. There’s also a scenic drive that circles the town, an overlook of the sprawling open-pit mine and an intriguing museum.

Worth Pondering…

Alone in the open desert, I have made up songs of wild, poignant rejoicing and transcendent melancholy. The world has seemed more beautiful to me than ever before.

I have loved the red rocks, the twisted trees, and sand blowing in the wind, the slow, sunny clouds crossing the sky, the shafts of moonlight on my bed at night. I have seemed to be at one with the world.

—Everett Ruess

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument: Ajo Mountain Drive

Arguably the best way to get a representative view of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, the Ajo Mountain Drive is a 21-mile scenic drive into, you guessed it, the Ajo Mountains, located within the park’s boundaries. Sometimes called the Ajo Mountain Loop Road, this drive takes visitors on a journey through rugged mountains while offering breathtaking views of the surrounding desert. And, yes, on this drive you’ll see plenty of Organ Pipe cacti!

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument covers 516 square miles of Southern Arizona, so you could spend a month there and not see all of this isolated, biodiverse jewel of the National Park System (NPS). But most people spend significantly less than a month there—and Ajo Mountain Drive is for them.

Careful drivers can navigate this 21-mile loop in most vehicles and it traverses much of what makes Organ Pipe great including unique desert flora, steep mountains, and dramatic views.

Ajo Mountain Drive *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

It’s no surprise that the Ajo Mountain Drive is the most popular scenic drive in the monument. It takes you through an excellent overview of the monument’s landscape bringing visitors through desert washes and up into the Ajo Mountains. For those wanting some good views and photographs of cacti, the drive provides ample opportunities to see large stands of its namesake cacti, the organ pipe cacti, as well as saguaros, cholla, and barrel cacti.

The Ajo Mountain Drive is a 21-mile graded, one-way dirt road. The drive takes approximately 2 hours and has been designed so that a passenger car driven with caution may be taken over it safely. Trailers, buses, and motorhomes over 25 feet are prohibited on the drive. After the first mile, the drive becomes a one-way road, so be prepared to finish the entire 21-mile loop.

Before you embark, stop at the monument’s visitor’s center to pay your entrance fee and pick up a guide to the route; numbered stakes along the road correspond to entries in the guide.

You can also follow along with the audio tour/written guide on the NPS App or download a PDF version of the guide.

There are four picnic sites provided on the drive. Stops #6 has a shaded picnic area and Estes Canyon after stop #11 has a ramada and backcountry restrooms. The Ajo Mountain Drive also provides access to the trailheads for the Arch Canyon, Old Pima County Road, and Estes Canyon/Bull Pasture trails.

By the way, I have a series of posts on Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument:

Leaving the visitor’s center, head east on Ajo Mountain Drive which is across State Route 85 from the visitors center.

In the early going, you’ll see plenty of Sonoran Desert staples such as saguaros, chollas, and ocotillos along this wide, washboarded dirt road. Straight ahead, to the east, are the craggy peaks of the Ajo Range which is topped by 4,819-foot Mount Ajo. You’ll get a closer look at the mountains later but for now enjoy the view along the road—which splits and becomes a narrower, one-way route at Mile 2.

Two miles past the split, you’ll spot your first organ pipe cactus (Stenocereus thurberi), and a mile later these aptly named, many-limbed columnar cactuses line both sides of the road. The monument harbors most of the U.S. population of this species—which, like the saguaro, tends to grow on south-facing slopes. While there are 30 other cactus species at the monument, the organ pipes are among the most visible and dramatic and you can enjoy them over lunch at the shaded Diablo Canyon Picnic Area, just ahead.

Past the picnic area, a paved section of road, one of several on this drive, winds into the foothills of the Ajo Range offering lovely panoramas around every corner. Healthy organ pipes proliferate on seemingly every hillside—on average, these cactuses’ stems grow about 2.5 inches per year.

Also, watch for a natural arch high above the road; from the Arch Canyon Trailhead, at Mile 9, you can hike a short, easy trail that offers good views of the rock formation. (An unmaintained and much steeper extension of that trail will take you up to the arch, but it isn’t for the faint of heart.)

The road then curves to the south and around the mountains providing nice views of the cliffs on the left. Past the Estes Canyon-Bull Pasture Trailhead which leads to another lovely hike, you’ll pass through a forest of healthy organ pipes and tall saguaros.

Around Mile 13, the organ pipes fade away as the road rolls into a flatter area that isn’t as ideal for those cactuses and numerous chollas, ocotillos, and prickly pears take their place. But the monument’s crown jewels return a few miles later offering one more look at a plant you aren’t likely to see elsewhere.

Eighteen miles in, you’ll return to the two-way road you took at the start of the drive. Turn left and retrace your route for 2 miles back to SR 85 where you can think about which of Organ Pipe’s 516 square miles you’ll explore the next time you visit.

Some reminders

Water is not available anywhere along the drive so carry plenty with you. Fires and camping are not allowed on the drive. Pets are not allowed on trails or in the backcountry. They must be leashed at all times. Please do leave pets unattended.

Do not cross washes when flooded. Do not pick up hitchhikers. Report any suspicious activity to park staff immediately. Do not contact any suspicious persons. If you see them in distress, contact a ranger for help. Remember that you’re only a few miles from Mexico.

Tour guide

Length: 21-mile loop
Directions: From Ajo, go south on State Route 85 for 33 miles to Ajo Mountain Drive. Turn left (east) onto Ajo Mountain Drive and continue 21 miles around the loop and back to SR 85.
Vehicle requirements: A high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle such as an SUV or truck is recommended, but the route is passable in a standard sedan in good weather.
Special consideration: NPS fees apply. Additionally, while the monument is safe to visit, crossings and other illegal activities do occur along the U.S.-Mexico border. Stay on maintained park roads, do not pick up hitchhikers, and report any suspicious behavior or distressed people you encounter to the monument’s staff or the Border Patrol.
Warning: Back-road travel can be hazardous so be aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of water. Don’t travel alone and let someone know where you are going and when you plan to return.

Worth Pondering…

Alone in the open desert, I have made up songs of wild, poignant rejoicing and transcendent melancholy. The world has seemed more beautiful to me than ever before.

—Everett Ruess

The Winds of Organ Pipe: Diverse Sample of the Sonoran Desert

In Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, located on the border with Mexico, the star is obviously the organ pipe cactus

To reach Organ Pipe National Monument you’ll pass through the slumbering town of Ajo, Arizona. Once fueled by copper, the state’s first copper mine was here launched in the mid-1850s. Ajo (pronounced AH-ho, either takes its name from the Spanish word for garlic, or from o’oho, the native Tohono O’odham word for paint) took a substantial hit in 1985 when Phelps Dodge closed its copper mine.

Located 15 miles south of Ajo on Highway 85, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument preserves a diverse and relatively undisturbed sample of the Sonoran Desert. Mountains surround the park on all sides, some near, some distant, with colors changing from one hour to the next.

Ninety-five percent of the monument is designated as wilderness area which makes this one of the best places to view the Sonoran Desert.

The monument’s eastern boundary runs along the backbone of the Ajo Range, which includes Mt. Ajo at 4,808 feet and Diaz Peak at 4,024 feet.

The organ pipe cactus thrives within the United States primarily in the 516-square-mile Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument and International Biosphere Reserve. Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is designated by the American Bird Conservancy as a Globally Important Bird Area.

Instead of growing with one massive trunk like the saguaro, the many branches of the organ pipe rise from a base at the ground. Originally called pitayas, this cactus is a stately plant, with columns rising mostly like, well, the pipes of a church organ. Their pithaya fruit, like a saguaro’s, mature in July, have red pulp and small seeds.

Each desert plant is usable to some extent—the organ pipe is no exception. These plants played a vital role in the lives of native people for thousands of years. Tohono O’odham people used the wood for construction and picked their fruit for food. The fruit is eaten raw or dried, fermented into wine, and made into jelly, jams, and syrup. Seeds can provide flour and cooking oil.

The organ pipe, of course, has company—25 other cactus species including the stately saguaro, chain-fruit cholla, teddy bear cholla, and Engelmann prickly pear, also make this park their home. A mature organ-pipe cactus may be more than 100 years old. A mature saguaro can live to be more than 150.

Foothill palo verde, ironwood, jojoba, elephant tree, mesquite, triangle-leaf bursage, agave, creosote bush, ocotillo, and brittlebush also contribute to the desert landscape.

It’s also home to coyotes, the endangered Sonoran pronghorn, desert bighorn sheep, deer, javelina, gila monster, Western diamondback rattlesnake, desert tortoise, Gambel’s quail, roadrunner, Gila woodpecker, and bats. Lesser long-nosed bats drink the nectar of the organ pipe, in the process being sprinkled by pollen dust, which the bats then transport to other cactuses for fertilization.

The Kris Eggle Visitor Center offers information about the desert flora and fauna, plus there are scheduled talks and guided walks. Park rangers are there to talk over plans and interests with you.

Ajo Mountain Drive, Organ Pipe National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Organ Pipe offers two scenic drives and numerous hiking trails. The 21-mile Ajo Mountain Drive is a one-way road that winds and dips and provides access to some of the finest scenery in the monument. Available at the visitor center, a self-guided-tour booklet describes 22 stops along the way and greatly enhances the experience.

Puerto Blanco Drive, Organ Pipe National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The Puerto Blanco Drive is a four-hour, 41 mile loop that connects the North and South sections of the Puerto Blanco Drive and includes Quitobaquito Springs, a true oasis that is home to an endangered subspecies of desert pupfish. Many birds are attracted to the Springs including vermillion flycatchers, phainopepla, and killdeer.

Both drives offer many opportunities for scenic beauty, solitude, exploration, and photography.

Twin Peaks Campground has 208 sites that are generally level, widely spaced, and landscaped by natural desert growth. The campsites will easily accommodate 40-foot motorhomes and are available on a first-come first-served basis. As well, Alamo Campground has four well-spaced, primitive spots.

Alamo Campground, Organ Pipe National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Worth Pondering…

When I walk in the desert the birds sing very beautifully

When I walk in the desert the trees wave their branches in the breeze

When I walk in the desert the tall saguaro wave their arms way up high

When I walk in the desert the animals stop to look at me as if they were saying

“Welcome to our home.”

—Jeanette Chico, in When It Rains

Serenading the Sonoran Desert: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

With its multiple stems, the organ pipe cactus resembles an old-fashioned pipe organ

The remote Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is a gem tucked away in southern Arizona’s vast Sonoran Desert. Thanks to its unique crossroads locale, the monument is home to a wide range of specialized plants and animals, including its namesake.

This stretch of desert marks the northern range of the organ pipe cactus, a rare species in the U.S. With its multiple stems, the cactus resembles an old-fashioned pipe organ—you can almost hear them serenading the desert.

There are 28 different species of cacti in the monument, ranging from the giant saguaro to the miniature pincushion. These cacti are all highly adapted to survive in the dry and unpredictable desert. They use spines for protection and shade, thick skin, and pulp to preserve water, unique pathways of photosynthesis at night, and hidden under their skin are delicate to sturdy wooden frames holding them together.

Organ pipe and saguaro cacti © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

The monument’s namesake, the organ pipe cactus can live to over 150 years in age, have up to 100 arms, reach 25 feet in height, and will only produce their first flower near the age of 35.

The organ pipe cactus bloom in May and June, opening its 3-inch white, creamy flowers at night. Flowers will close up again by mid-morning, and very rarely remain open into the afternoon. This leaves very little time for daytime pollinators to feast on the sweet flower nectar. Lesser long nosed bats do most of the night pollination, and over the centuries, have developed a unique relationship with these cactus.

The fruit of the organ pipe ripens just before the summer rains and splits open to reveal a bright red seed-studded pulp. These seeds, with the aid of nurse plants or rocks, have the potential to grow from small seedlings into hundred-armed giant.

Organ pipe cactus thrive in the Sonoran summer. High temperatures and the monsoon rains of July and August trigger the greatest cactus growth. Within the monument boundaries, an average organ pipe cactus stem grows about 2.5 inches a year.

The beauty of the Sonoran Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Highway 85 cuts through the monument from north to south. From the Kris Eggle Visitor Center you can take two drives. Both are unpaved but well maintained.

Toward the east is the Ajo Mountain loop drive, the most popular scenic drive in the monument. It is a beautiful 21-mile, one-way desert tour usually passable by normal passenger cars. RVs over 24 feet are prohibited, due to the twisting and dipping nature of the road. The loop offers amazing views of barrel, saguaro, and organ pipe cactus. And in the spring, the desert floor can be filled with such wildflowers as brittle bush, Mexican poppies, globe mellow, owl clover, and lupine. If you keep a keen eye out, you also might also see desert bighorn sheep, deer, coyotes, and javelina. A self-guided-tour pamphlet, which can be purchased in the Kris Eggle Visitor Center for $1.00, describes 22 stops along the way and greatly enhances the experience. For example, the third stop is at a large saguaro, where visitors can learn many things about the stately cactus. Its flowers bloom in May and June, its fruit maturing a month later. Many animals dine on the fruit’s red pulp and its tiny black seeds. The Tohono O’odham people grind its seeds into a buttery substance that is considered a delicacy.

The skeletal ribs of a once thriving organ pipe cactus © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Saguaros stay generous past their fruit-bearing prime: Their decaying, hole-dotted trunks provide shelter for birds, and their “skeletal ribs” once constituted building materials for American Indians.

Interpretive programs are offered January through March. Take the opportunity to spend three hours with a ranger driving on the Ajo Mountain drive. Since space on this van tour is limited to 10 per day, interested visitors should sign up early at the Kris Eggle Visitor Center.

The Puerto Blanco drive west of the visitor center provides access to the Pinkley Peak Picnic Area, Red Tanks trail head, Senita Basin, and Quitobaquito Springs. The drive offers stops along the way that provide wonderful views and information on the ecology and culture of the Sonoran Desert. The entire 37 miles of the drive was completely reopened in 2014. Be advised that many travel books and websites do not reflect this change. High clearance vehicles are recommended beyond Pinkley Peak.

Twin Peaks Campground © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Twin Peaks Campground offers 208 sites that are generally level, widely spaced, and landscaped by natural desert growth. The campsites will easily accommodate big rigs and are available on a first-come first-served basis.

As well, Alamo Campground has four well-spaced, primitive spots.

Our experience in this extraordinary desert—is exotic, inviting, and utterly unforgettable.

Worth Pondering…
Take your time.
Slow down.
Live.

A Small Town with a Big Back Yard

This is the place where the “Summer Spends the Winter”

“A Small Town With A Big Back Yard”, the tiny Arizona burg of Ajo (ahh-ho) is situated deep in the Sonoran Desert, 42 miles south of Gila Bend and 37 miles north of the Mexican border.

A discovery worthy of Lewis and Clark, Ajo just might be the “best kept secret in Arizona.” This is the place where the “Summer spends the Winter”, according to the local Chamber of Commerce.

For many snowbirds, as it was for us, Ajo is merely a stopping-off point on the way to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. For others, especially Spring Breakers, it’s a town to pass through on their way to Puerto Penasco (Rocky Point).

The Old Train Depot northeast of the plaza dates from 1915 © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

The town of Ajo reflects its one time wealth to this day. Glistening white churches and a well-designed plaza are so inviting.

Ajo today is a retirement community and snowbird haven along with an increasing number of artists. Ajo’s gorgeous mountain views and charming Old World architecture are enchanting and we soon fell in love with this friendly community in southwestern Arizona.

Ajo got its name from a poor Spanish translation of an Indian word. To make body paint, the local O’odham Indians used copper. Their word for paint was aau’auho, which sounded to the Spanish like the familiar word ajo, meaning garlic in their language. Later, the wild lily plants in the area were named ajo for the flavorful bulb at its roots.

The birthplace of copper mining in Arizona, copper has provided the sinew for this desert town for about 300 years. Ajo was the oldest-known mine site in the state, and until the 1980s Phelps Dodge ran a sizable copper mining operation out of here.

The Immaculate Conception Catholic Church follows the ornate architectural style of the plaza © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

The town of Ajo is worth a good walkabout. Most of the town, and in particular the central plaza, was created by John Campbell Greenway to be a good place for his New Cornelia miners to raise their families. Visitors can pick up a walking tour map/brochure at the Visitor Center located at the old train depot.

Greenway, formerly a Rough Rider with Theodore Roosevelt, was the highly successful general manager and an owner of the Calumet & Arizona Mining Company that included the Lavender Pit Mine at Bisbee and the New Cornelia Mine at Ajo. He was the second husband of Isabella who, following John’s death in 1926, founded the Arizona Inn in Tucson and became Arizona’s first U.S. Congresswoman.

For Ajo’s architecture, Greenway chose Spanish Colonial Revival, a Mediterranean style with Moorish influences: high arches, white stucco surfaces, tile roofs, and considerable decoration.

Across the street from the plaza, the most prominent features are two white churches. The Federated Church, while visually interesting, has almost no ornamentation. The Immaculate Conception Catholic Church follows the more ornate architectural style of the central plaza. Both are eminently photogenic.

Organ pipe cactus and saguaro along the Ajo Scenic Loop © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

A number of the buildings from the 1920s and before are still standing. Just beyond the churches, the historic Curley School was constructed in 1919. The Train Depot directly northeast of the plaza dates from 1915. New Cornelia Hotel just east of Curley School was constructed in 1916.

A few miles further, past loads of cacti, long hills of white sediment and stretches of crushed stones in multi-colors line the highway, left by the New Cornelia Copper Mine.

An easy scenic drive, the Ajo Ten-Mile Loop skirts the backside of the open pit New Cornelia Mine. Along the way you can stop at the overlook and little museum about the mine. Also, in the St. Catherine’s Indian Mission, the Ajo Historical Society has a small museum out here. To no surprise, it too is mostly about Ajo’s glory days sporting one of the world’s largest copper mines.

A large wildlife refuge, Cabeza Prieta spans Sonoran Desert wilderness. Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge is home to 275 species of animals, including endangered big horn sheep and Sonoran pronghorn. Capable of 60 mph, pronghorns are the fastest land animals in North America.

Organ Pipe National Monument © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

Located 35 miles south of Ajo on Highway 85, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument preserves a diverse and relatively undisturbed sample of the Sonoran Desert. Mountains surround the park on all sides, some near, some distant, with colors changing from one hour to the next. Ninety-five percent of the monument is designated as wilderness area, which makes this one of the best places to view the Sonoran Desert.

Worth Pondering…

The vast emptiness and overpowering silence of the desert and surrounding mountains sharpens your senses, enhancing self-contemplation, and stimulating creativity.

—Anon