petroglyphs - RVing with Rex

The ULTIMATE GUIDE to Petroglyph National Monument

June 2025 marks the 35th anniversary of the establishment of Petroglyph National Monument, a park of enormous cultural significance located just outside of Albuquerque, New Mexico

Looking towards Albuquerque’s West Mesa, one can’t help noticing the area’s distinctive geology and topography. A closer look reveals many clues of an active cultural and geologic history.

Understanding the volcanic landscape

Roughly 30 million years ago, the earth’s crust began stretching apart in an east-west direction. This action caused the Sandia Mountains to rise above the sinking basin now called the Rio Grande Rift Valley. The slow movement set off chain reactions that resulted in the Albuquerque volcanoes much later. Between 155,000 and 200,000 years ago, a crack formed in the earth’s surface allowing hot, liquid magma to shoot up and ooze eastward across the landscape at about 5-10 mph. These fissure eruptions occurred six times.

At the end of the last eruption, six cinder cones were formed due to a buildup of ash, cinder, and cooling lava rock. The result was a series of six volcanoes and a caprock of basalt, 17 miles long and 12 miles across. The heavy basalt eventually crumbled and fell apart, leaving the boulders that we see today.

Petroglyph National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Additional history

When the Spanish arrived in 1540 and began settling the area around 1600, ancestral Puebloan life changed dramatically. Under Spanish rule, the numerous Pueblos along the Rio Grande began to suffer from illness and disease. After extensive and secret communications with each other, the Pueblos successfully rose up against the Spanish in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. In 1692, the Spanish returned. The area changed again. The sweeping grasslands across the volcanic mesa gave way to rudimentary cattle and sheep ranches. The reality of private land ownership became more and more prevalent with new land grants given to Spanish colonists by the King of Spain.

Protection of a sacred place

Over the next few hundred years, the Villa de Albuquerque grew into the modern city we know today. As urban development began expanding westward in the 1970s, the sacred lands of the petroglyphs became threatened. The desecration and destruction that this area faced inspired local citizens, Tribal elders, and scientists to advocate for the protection of these irreplaceable resources. Their hard work finally paid off on June 27, 1990, when Petroglyph National Monument was established by an act of Congress.

Five dormant volcanic cones and a seventeen-mile basalt escarpment show how a series of eruptions over 100,000 years ago formed the West Mesa. The basalt boulders that tumbled down to the escarpment’s edge later provided an ideal material for carving Puebloan and Spanish petroglyphs. Changing hands over the centuries, this land is now part of the Open Space network.

Petroglyph National Monument is unique not only in its history and landscape but in its management as well. This 7,244-acre monument relies on a partnership between the National Park Service (NPS) and the City of Albuquerque Open Space Division to protect its nearly 20,000 petroglyphs and provide recreational and educational opportunities to the public.

Petroglyph National Monument protects one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America featuring designs and symbols carved onto volcanic rocks by Native Americans and Spanish settlers 400 to 700 years ago. These images are a valuable record of cultural expression and hold profound spiritual significance for contemporary Native Americans and for the descendants of the early Spanish settlers.

Petroglyph National Monument has much more to offer than the cultural resources for which it is so well known. Various types of wildlife utilize this narrow corridor, some in transit during migration, others for their entire lifespan. Plants, birds, insects, and animals, all are part of the ecosystem that Petroglyph National Monument holds in this tiny strip of land.

Another less popular but well-known resident of the monument is the rattlesnake. This landscape is home to several species; please be careful when you are visiting the national monument.

While hiking, you will notice a wide range of native desert plants.

Overlooking Albuquerque from Petroglyph National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Visitor Center

Petroglyph National Monument is located about 7 miles northwest of downtown Albuquerque. Although I suggest that all visitors make their first stop at the visitor center, it is important to know that there are not any petroglyph viewing trails at the visitor center. (If you are being dropped off at the visitor center, please ask the driver to wait for you since you will need to be driven to the actual petroglyph viewing trail system of your choice.)

The visitor center is located at the intersection of Unser Blvd. NW at Western Trail. The petroglyph viewing trails are a 1- to 6-mile drive from the visitor center.

While at the visitor center, park staff will inform you of your trail options based on your timeframe and the degree of difficulty of the trail then provide you with driving directions to the trail of your choice. Be sure to get your official park brochure and trail maps while there.

Time spent in the park varies from a minimum of 30 minutes to over 4 hours though the average visit is 1-2 hours.

There is no public transportation to the monument so you’ll need to drive or take a cab or ride-share to reach it. The park welcomes visitors daily. The information center is open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Viewing the petroglyphs

These remnants of erupting volcanoes which produced the basalt that became the canvas for people for thousands of years stand starkly against the western horizon. A moderate hike will take you partway up some of these volcanic cones. Be sure to stay on the trails. It takes decades for this fragile volcanic landscape to recover from a single footstep.

All of the petroglyph viewing trails are outdoors so be prepared for the day’s weather and dress accordingly. Take plenty of water and wear sturdy shoes that provide ankle support or hiking boots since the trails are along the natural surface which is oftentimes uneven ground. A wide-brimmed hat is advisable in summer as there is no shade.

Remember to lock your vehicle, secure your valuables, and set your vehicle’s alarm system. Do not invite a thief by leaving valuable items visible inside your car.

Petroglyph National Monument is comprised of four different trails with the visitor center somewhat centralized between the trailheads.

Three trails allow for petroglyph viewing and one trail does not. These trails range in length from one to four miles roundtrip and in degree of difficulty from easy to moderately strenuous. Trail guides for each trail system are available at the visitor center.

Boca Negra Canyon

Boca Negra Canyon has the most developed trail in the Petroglyph National Monument

Directions: From Unser Boulevard NW, drive ¼ mile north of Montaño Road, make a right turn onto Atrisco. This leads to the trail parking lot. Parking is free.
Hours: Open daily 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; last entry at 4:00 p.m. daily is strictly enforced
Amenities: Restrooms, picnic tables, trash cans, a drinking fountain, picnic tables, and shaded seating areas are available
Note: No dogs allowed on petroglyph viewing trails; service pets are allowed on the Macaw and Cliff Base trail but not on the Mesa Point trail
Details: Operated and staffed by the City of Albuquerque Open Space Division, this trail system has approximately 100 petroglyphs for viewing and is divided into three parts: Mesa Point, Macaw, and Cliff Base.

Mesa Point is considered strenuous and leads up a steep hill to the lava-rock mesa offering sprawling views of Albuquerque West Side with Sandias as a backdrop. Be extremely careful coming down Mesa Point; the path is steep with 70-degree downgrade.

The Macaw trail is a short, sandy path with a partial boardwalk leading to and from the restrooms and picnic areas.

The Cliff Base trail is considered moderate and winds along the side of the hill for petroglyph viewing.

Rinconada Canyon

See approximately 300 petroglyphs in 1.5-2 hours

Directions: Located off Unser Boulevard NW at the St. Joseph Avenue intersection; approximately 2 miles north of I-40
Hours: Open daily 8:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.; access is allowed sunrise to sunset
Amenities: Vault restroom at trailhead; water is not available
Note: Leashed dogs/pets are not allowed on the petroglyph viewing section of this trail. If you want to hike with your dog, remain on the trail that runs in the center of the canyon. Or instead, visit Piedras Marcadas Canyon to see petroglyphs while walking with your dog.
Details: The longest petroglyph viewing trail system in the monument, this moderate undeveloped trail is 2.2 miles round-trip. See up to 300 petroglyphs. Binoculars are recommended.

Piedras Marcadas Canyon

1.5 miles round trip, 1.5 hours, 300-500 petroglyphs, undeveloped trail system, no water, no restrooms

Directions: Located off Golf Course Road at Jill Patricia Street. Parking lot is behind the Valvoline Motor Oil Change station
Hours: Open daily from sunrise to sunset
Amenities: None; no water, no restrooms
Note: Dogs on 6-foot leash allowed; owners must pick up dog waste and place in a trash can
Details: Piedras Marcadas Canyon offers a chance to see the most petroglyphs with 300-500 scattered over a 1.5-mile (roundtrip) trail. Staff members can direct you to specific attractions within the park while on-site educational programs offer further insight into the ancient rock art.

Volcanoes Day Use Area

1-4 miles round trip, 1-4 hours, no petroglyphs, undeveloped trail system, no water

Directions: Located off Atrisco Vista Boulevard (exit # 149) approximately 4.8 miles north of I-40
Hours: Parking lot open daily 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.; access is allowed sunrise to sunset
Amenities: Vault restroom facility available; water is not available
Note: Dogs on 6-foot leash allowed; owners must pick up dog waste and place in a trash can
Details: Located on the western edge of the monument, this trail system offers scenic miles of hiking around the volcanic cinder cones. Although the area is void of petroglyphs, you’ll enjoy the clear views of the Rio Grande valley and the Sandia Mountains from the scenic overlook. Trails vary in length from 1 mile to 4 miles round-trip.

Volcanoes Trail is about 3.5 miles round trip loop and is considered easy to moderate. The entire trail starts at the parking lot and goes past the JA Volcano to the scenic overlook, up to the Vulcan Volcano, and back to the parking lot with sweeping views of Albuquerque and the Rio Grande Valley throughout.

JA Volcano and the Albuquerque Overlook is an easy 1 mile round trip from parking lot to scenic overlook and back. This sub-section of the trail departs from the parking lot and heads east to a scenic view of the Rio Grande Valley, Albuquerque, and the Sandia Mountains. You will have to turn around the way you came back to the parking lot to complete it. This trail has two shaded rest areas with benches.

Vulcan Volcano Loop is a moderate 2 miles around Vulcan Volcano and back. This sub-section of the the trail can be found by going to the northside of the main parking lot near the gate.

The trail along the eastern base of Vulcan can be difficult to find. A gradual incline up the east side of Vulcan leads to a level, mini-volcanic valley. Continue on trail and go left (south) when you approach the ‘Y’ on the northwest side of Vulcan. At next ‘Y’ go left again for an up-close look at this well preserved cinder cone. Follow trail down, continuing south on old road which leads back to the parking lot.

North Volcanoes Loop Trail is a moderate 2.3 miles. This section of the trail connects to the Vulcan Volcano Loop and will take you to the remnants of a historic corral.

Worth Pondering…

Each of these rocks is alive, keeper of a message left by the ancestors…There are spirits, guardians; there is medicine…

—William F. Weahkee, Pueblo Elder

Valley of Fire: Explore Nature’s Work of Art

Located in the Mojave Desert, Valley of Fire State Park is home to 46,000 acres of red Aztec sandstone formed by shifting sand dunes 150 million years ago. The stunning landscape glows red for miles into the horizon and is particularly beautiful at sunset.

Valley of Fire State Park has been on my bucket list of places to visit for a while now. I’ve seen lots of photos in the past of that iconic long and winding road that cuts through towering red rocks and despite the park being located off I-15 we never quite had the time to truly explore this part of Nevada. So when we were planning our road trip south for the winter, we decided to spend a week at Mesquite, Nevada, 50 miles northeast of the park.

Valley of Fire State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Overview

Fees: $10 per vehicle (Nevada residents); $15 per vehicle (non-Nevada residents)
Elevation: 1,320 to 3,000 feet
Park hours: Sunrise to sunset daily; 24-hour access to campgrounds
Visitor center hours: Open daily from 9 am to 4 pm
Location: 50 miles northeast of Las Vegas
Campgrounds: Atlatl Campground and Arch Rock Campground

Note: Valley of Fire State Park will be closed for maintenance and construction projects December 2 to December 15, 2024

Where is Valley of Fire State Park located?

Valley of Fire State Park is located mid-way between Las Vegas to the south and Mesquite, Nevada to the north. The closest towns are Overton and Moapa Valley.

I’m not sure if this park is often overlooked due to its proximity to larger and better known landmarks such as the Red Rocks National Conversation Area and even Zion National Park. Or maybe it was because we avoided the weekend the park never felt really over-crowded.

Though it still takes about 3 hours to get to the nearest national parks (Zion, Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon), you can easily make Valley of Fire State Park a stop on your next road trip. I think most people do this as a day trip when they’re visiting Las Vegas though.

When is the best time to visit Valley of Fire State Park?

The best time to visit Valley of Fire State Park is November through April. Temperatures are mostly mild for hiking (60 degrees to 75 degrees F) during the day. Nights are pretty chilly but no one is allowed to explore the park at night.

History of Valley of Fire State Park

About 2,500 years ago, Ancestral Puebloans were living in and around the modern-day Moapa Valley (located about 13 miles away). Ancient petroglyphs were found carved into the red sandstone rock formations as seen around the park. In the mid-1860s, Mormon missionaries settled St. Thomas—this settlement was later flooded by the waters from Lake Mead during the Hoover Dam construction in the early 1930s.

In 1931, Valley of Fire State Park was created after a transfer of 8,760 acres of federal land to the state of Nevada. The park was built by the Civilian Conversation Corps (CCC) building simple amenities such as campgrounds, stone cabins, trails, and roads. The park opened in 1934 and became Nevada’s first state park in 1935.

The name Valley of Fire derived from a AAA official traveling the road connecting Salt Lake City and Los Angeles as part of the Arrowhead Trail in 1920 and due to the red sandstones, the entire region looked like it was on fire and hence the name.

How much time is needed to visit Valley of Fire State Park?

I was able to see most of the highlights of the park in one day. Valley of Fire State Park is fairly small and many hikes are short (less than a mile).

There are also many viewpoints where all you need to do is get out of the car, walk around, and take a photo. If you want to see most of the park within a day, it is best to get up for sunrise (or before) so you don’t have to wait in line during traffic.

Also, even though we were there in late November, it was pretty hot by midday. We were starting to get heat exhaustion so decided to leave by mid-afternoon. For comfort and fewer crowds, it is best to get there early.

White Dome Road, Valley of Fire State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Valley of Fire State Park roads

Valley of Fire State Park is divided into two parts by two main roads. The park’s entrances are located on the Valley of Fire Highway which runs west to east. White Domes Road (also known as Mouse’s Tank Road) leads north from the Visitor Center towards the park’s center. This is the park’s most beautiful area.

What see and do at Valley of Fire State Park

If you only have one day to visit, you can hit up most of the iconic spots in Valley of Fire State Park. The hikes within the park are all less than 2 miles long. I started my day a little later so really only had time to do one hike but we also spent considerable time pulling out at random spots to take photos. We even took a side trip out towards Lake Mead and the town of Overton, more about that later.

We stopped by the Visitor Center first which is open daily from 9 am to 4 pm. We usually start our visit here because I like to collect a t-shirt from every national park and state park we visit. We do that first so we don’t have to worry about making it back after a day of sightseeing and whatnot since its late afternoon by then. Also, it’s always good to talk to the people that work or volunteer for the park before exploring the park. Sometimes they can give you tips on where to find hidden gems.

Note: It is required that you are off the hiking trails and off the White Domes Road (also known as Mouse Tank Road) at sunset. If you don’t return to your campsite or be seen as on your way out of the park, you will be considered as trespassing. I did ask the ranger why they do that, she explained it was because that they go out and search for missing hikers if that does happen.

Hiking: Fire Wave Trail

Length: 1.5 miles
Elevation gain: 236 feet
Where to park? Parking Lot 3
Pets allowed? Yes

This is probably the most popular trail in the park. If you only have time to do one hike, this will be the one. The Fire Wave is considered to be the baby cousin of The Wave (Coyote North) which is located in Arizona. That one requires winning a lottery, this one doesn’t. Even though the Fire Wave itself is not as spectacular as its counterpart, the colors and different layers that form the wave and its surrounding area was really cool.

The trail is easy and is relatively well-marked. The end of the Fire Wave Trail ends at a sign that tells you that you can either turn around or keep hiking to complete the Seven Wonders Loop (1.8 miles).

If you continue past the sign that signifies the end of the Fire Wave Trail and continue on to complete the Seven Wonders Loop you’ll hike through slot canyons.

An intriguing aspect of this hike is the different colors you see on the rocks. The formations and colors of the rocks shifted from red to pinks and pastels.

Most of the Fire Wave Trail and the Seven Wonder Loop consisted of hiking over loose sand and the occasionally small climbs over uneven terrain.

The Seven Wonders Loop eventually connects with the White Domes Trail which consists of similar geological features as the wave but instead of the different shades of reds, these rocks are white.

Note: Annual trail closures

For the safety of visitors, staff, and local rescue services many of the park’s trails are closed annually during the warmer months (May-September). Typically the trails are closed May 15-September 30. The Trails include: White Domes Loop, Fire Wave/Seven Wonders Loop/Pastel Canyon/Pink Canyon, Pinnacles Loop, Propect Trail, Arrowhead Trail, Natural Arch Trail (excluding Arch Rock), and Charlie’s Spring.

These trails have a history of frequent medical calls, search and rescue missions, and fatalities during this time of year. Unfortunately, the demand is more than the park is able to safely manage.

Hiking in high heat is dangerous even on shorter trails. Staying hydrated and replacing electrolytes is extremely important. Prepare for the heat and for unexpected mishaps. Please note that due to the terrain and weather, trails at Valley of Fire often feel much longer than listed.

Sightseeing: Petrified trees and petroglyphs

Not only is the park eye-watering beautiful with its fire-like radiance, it is also home to ancient petrified trees and petroglyphs. The petroglyphs are believed to date back to over 2,000 years. The petroglyphs carved into the red sandstone rock formations are a remnant from the Ancestral Puebloans who once lived in the region around 2,500 years ago. They were farmers in the nearby fertile lands of the Moapa Valley and lived in the valley roughly between 300 BC and 1150 AD.

It is thought that a limitation of water would have limited their visits to the Valley of Fire but today their legacy remains etched into the rock.

While petroglyphs can be found throughout the park, popular places with particularly numerous petroglyphs include Mouse’s Tank and Atlatl Rock. Both of these places also have the advantage of being fairly accessible.

Viewpoint: Random pullouts along the Valley of Fire Highway

The Valley of Fire Highway is the main artery that connects the west end of the park to the east end of the park. It is also what connects Las Vegas to the other part of the state. Aside from White Domes Road which leads to many of the main attractions of the park there were actually also viewpoints along the highway as well. We stopped at these viewpoints and trailheads.

I did want an iconic shot of the winding road that cuts through the park. I didn’t know you could stand on a rock to get a better view and I also wanted to leave a minimal impact and didn’t think climbing on any of the rocks was right. But even without stepping foot on a rock almost every turn like literally was a scenic view of the road coinciding with the red sandstones that made up the majority of the park. While I did take numerous shots of the winding road amid the red rock formations they were taken from a moving car.

Seven Sisters, Valley of Fire State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Picnic: Seven Sisters at Valley of Fire State Park

Located right off of the Valley of Fire Highway this desert attraction features a group of seven mammoth red boulders that’s impossible to miss.

Although, Valley of Fire State Park is jam-packed with mesmerizing rocks, the Seven Sisters win the hearts of many visitors with their exemplary beauty. An instagrammable rock formation, they make the surrounding area an excellent spot for a picnic lunch. The place has an eerily sacred presence that gives adventurers a feeling of inner tranquility. More facts about the rocks can be read on the information panel.

Note: The Valley of Fire Visitor Center is located nearby. It features a variety of books, souvenirs, and exhibits and is open daily from 9 am to 4 pm.

Big Horn Sheep, Valley of Fire State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Wildlife: Spot the Bighorn Sheep

Majestic natural rock formations aren’t the only things to see in this park. The Desert Bighorn Sheep also roam freely and visitors with a keen eye may be lucky to spot several. They are easy to distinguish from other wildlife as they have C-shaped horns.

Even with mountains, rocks, and harsh climates dominating the park, these animals thrive effortlessly something that makes them more admirable.

Remember to keep a distance as the sheep get defensive when provoked.

Atlatl Rock Campground, Valley of Fire State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Camping at Valley of Fire State Park

There are campsites at the Valley of Fire State Park and they are an excellent way to really enjoy the stunning outdoor world of the Nevadan desert.

The Valley of Fire State Park has two campgrounds and a combined total of 72 units. Campsites are equipped with shaded tables, grills, water, and restrooms. A dump station and showers are available. RV sites with power and water hookups are available.

Visitors may make reservations from 3 days to 11 months in advance on reservenevada.com. Inventory opens up at 8 a.m. Pacific Time and is on a rolling 11 month booking window.

All reservable campsites not reserved may be paid for on a first come, first served basis for 1 night at a time. First come, first served visitors may extend their stay by reaching out to park staff.

Camping fee: $20.00 per vehicle, per night (non-Nevada vehicles: $25.00 per vehicle, per night) + $10.00 for sites with utility hook ups

Lake Mead National Recreation Area

We got carried away driving along the highway and were suddenly feeling hunger pangs. I remember reading a review on the Hidden Scoop in Overton. Since it was on the route back to our camping base in Mesquite we decided to take the drive there since we had already exited the park through the east entrance. The moment we left the park, I was bombarded with landscapes that were completely different from what we had seen all day.

This section of the drive sort of reminded me of Glen Canyon (National Recreation Area) with towering sandstone rocks seemingly shooting out of the ground. Even though they were probably hundreds of miles away I could still feel their presence towering over me.

A little after we exited Valley of Fire State Park we entered Lake Mead National Recreation Area. I took a few pictures and continued our way to enjoy a late lunch in Overton.

Inside Scoop *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

We enjoyed a Reuben sandwich at the Inside Scoop. Originally simply an ice cream stop, the Inside Scoop has become the premier full service restaurant in Moapa Valley serving the valley since 1992. They serve tender aged steaks, flame grilled Angus burgers, pork chops, chicken dinners and their own recipe grilled mesquite chicken breasts. Their wide selection of deli sandwiches are local favorites.

By the time we were back at our campsite in Mesquite we were ready for a relaxing evening. I was so grateful to be able to finally see Valley of Fire State Park and be able to take a quick side trip to get a glimpse of the Lake Mead area and watch the sun set behind the hills and canyons. I already want to come back and visit the area more. On a return visit we will to camp several days in the state park campground.

Worth Pondering…

I have wandered all my life, and I have also traveled; the difference between the two being this, that we wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment.

—Hilaire Belloc

Capitol Reef National Park: 14 Amazing Things to See and Do

In Capitol Reef, pioneer orchards meet wild and unexpected geology. It offers all the recreation, activities, and beauty national parks are known for but often with fewer people than other Utah national parks. Take a scenic hike to a stunning natural bridge, harvest fresh fruit in season, and explore the backcountry.

Capitol Reef often an overlooked national park is full of many wonderful surprises. With an amazing scenic drive, hiking trails that rival those in Zion, rugged, remote areas to explore by 4×4, short, easy slot canyons, historical landmarks, and even delicious pie, this national park is absolutely amazing. In this post, learn about the best things to see and do in Capitol Reef National Park with tips on how to plan your time.

About our experiences in Capitol Reef National Park

On our most recent visit we spent six wonderful days in Capitol Reef. And the longer we were here, the more we wondered why this park is so overlooked. The scenic drives, the hiking trails, and the history of the Fruita district are amazing. But there is so much more to this park.

If you love the idea of leaving the crowds behind and exploring a vast, remote area you have several options. Cathedral Valley with its sandstone monoliths and sweeping desert vistas is a beautiful, unique way to spend a day in Capitol Reef. Or, you can Loop the Fold, another remote driving day along the waterpocket fold.

There are also slot canyons to explore, quiet, low-traffic hiking trails in remote areas of the park and some of the most dramatic landscapes in Utah which you can see right from your car.

I can’t wait to share with you the beauty, the history, and the amazing geology of this national park. And I am looking forward to a return visit this October. Maybe I will see you here!

Note: Scenic Drive will be closed summer 2024 for a rehabilitation project. Get the full details on the National Park Service website.

While in Capitol Reef National Park, please practice the seven principles of Leave No Trace: plan ahead, stay on the trails, pack out what you bring to the hiking trails, properly dispose of waste, leave areas as you found them, minimize campfire impacts, be considerate of other hikers, and do not approach or feed wildlife.

*Capitol Reef National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Interesting facts about Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park preserves the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile long wrinkle in the Earth’s crust. This wrinkle also called a monocline was formed between 50 and 70 million years ago when movement along a fault line caused upward shifting of the west side relative to the east side. The layers on the west side of the fault were lifted up 7,000 feet higher than the layers on the east.

Since this upheaval water has been slowly eroding away the sedimentary rock layers forming waterpockets. This erosion is revealing fossils, massive domes, canyons, arches, and monoliths.

The park gets its name from the white domes of Navajo sandstone that resemble the United States Capitol building. Early settlers found the long ridges of the waterpocket fold impassable similar to reefs in the ocean. Put these two together and you get Capitol Reef National Park.

Capitol Reef is very long and skinny running in a north-south direction. The park is 60 miles long north to south but only 6 miles wide (average) east to west.

Most visitors spend their time along State Route 24, the main road that cuts through the park. To get to the more remote northern and southern sections of the park you can drive on gravel roads and some of these require a 4WD.

Capitol Reef officially became a national park on December 18, 1971. In 2023, it received 1.3 million visitors making it the 22nd most visited US National Park last year. It is one of five national parks in Utah (collectively called Utah’s Mighty 5). Capitol Reef was the fourth most visited national park in Utah’s Mighty 5 (Zion took first place and Canyonlands took 5th place).

State Route 24 through *Capitol Reef National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Best things to do in Capitol Reef National Park

1. State Route 24

State Route 24 is the main road that runs through the park. This road runs east-west for 16 miles inside the park boundaries following alongside the Fremont River.

State Route 24 is a very scenic stretch of road. In the east, the road twists and turns along the Fremont River past massive domes and cliffs of white Navajo sandstone. As you approach Fruita the views open up as you drive through a valley filled with orchards and historic buildings along the Fremont River. As you continue to head west towards Torrey you will drive past immense red sandstone mountains, cliffs, and rock formations.

There is no fee to drive on SR 24 so you can tour this part of Capitol Reef without paying a park entrance fee. This “no fee zone” includes several of the other best things to do in Capitol Reef including Sunset and Panorama points, the petroglyphs, and a few hiking trails.

2. Panorama Point

Panorama Point offers beautiful views over State Route 24 as it winds its way through the park. This viewpoint is located just off Highway 24 and it is a quick and easy way to get a spectacular view of Capitol Reef Park.

Getting here: On Utah Route 24 there is a sign marking Panorama Point and Sunset Point. Turn here and it’s a very short drive on a gravel road to the parking lot for Panorama Point. If you continue down this road you will get to Sunset Point and the Goosenecks Overlook.

3. Sunset Point

Continue down the gravel access road until it ends at a small parking area. From the parking lot two different trails lead to two different viewpoints (Sunset Point and Goosenecks Overlook).

Sunset Point is an easy 0.8 mile round-trip hike to a gorgeous overlook. Sunset Point gets its name because it is one of the best spots in Capitol Reef to watch the sunset.

4. Goosenecks Overlook

Walk back to the parking lot and then it is just a short uphill walk (0.2 miles round trip) to a viewpoint over the Goosenecks. This is where the Sulphur Creek carved out a canyon, its curving path resembling that of a gooseneck.

Time: Plan on spending 45 minutes to one hour here visiting both Sunset Point and Goosenecks Overlook.

5. See the petroglyphs

You can see rock art figures (petroglyphs) created by ancient Native Americans on the drive along State Route 24. Park in the small parking lot on SR 24 located between the Hickman Bridge trailhead and Fruita. It’s a very short walk to a viewpoint where you can see these figures carved onto the rock wall.

6. Explore historic Fruita

The historic Fruita district is the heart of Capitol Reef National Park. This is where you will find the visitor center, the start of several great hikes, campground, and historic buildings.

In the late 1800s, pioneers began settling in the area. The first landholder was Nels Johnson followed by other members of the Church of Latter Day Saints. The settlers planted orchards and grew sorghum for molasses and syrup.

Now, most of the original buildings are gone but you can still see the one-room schoolhouse, the Gifford House and barn, and the orchards which are still maintained by the National Park Service (NPS).

7. Have pie at the Gifford Homestead

The Gifford Homestead, one of the last remaining buildings in historic Fruita sells handmade items made by local craftsmen such as dolls, soap, quilts, jams and jellies, and books. But the big draw is the pie. Stop in for a slice of locally baked fruit pie and ice cream.

The Gifford House Store and Museum is open March 14 (Pi Day) through November 25 daily from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m with a 45-minute closure from noon to 12:45 pm. The house will be closed November 6, 22, and 23.

8. Go hiking

One of the best things to do in Capitol Reef National Park is to go hiking. The scenic drives are amazing but there’s no better way to explore the canyons and get a bird’s eye view over the park than from the hiking trails.

In the center of the park near Fruita there are 15 day hikes you can do. There are also numerous other hikes in the more remote areas of the park including Cathedral Valley and along Notom-Bullfrog Road.

To help narrow down the long list of day hikes here are some favorites. All hiking distances are round-trip.

Cassidy Arch (3.4 miles, moderate): This is one of the most thrilling trails in Capitol Reef National Park. This short hike features stunning scenery, views over the Grand Wash, and the chance to stand on Cassidy Arch.

Hickman Bridge (1.8 miles, moderate): This is one of the best short hikes to do in Capitol Reef. Walk along the Fremont River and then hike up to a spectacular viewpoint where you can look out over Highway 24. The trail ends at Hickman Bridge, a large, natural arch that is tucked away near the back of the canyon.

Grand Wash (4.8 miles, easy): Hike through a wide canyon similar to the Zion Narrows but without having to walk through a river. This is a long hike if you walk the entire length of the canyon but you can turn around when you are ready. The best part of the hike where the canyon is the narrowest (called The Narrows) is about one mile from the start so this hike could be as short as 2.5 miles.

Cohab Canyon (3.4 miles, strenuous): This short but strenuous hike offers stunning views over Fruita and along Highway 24. This hike is one of the easiest ways to get an aerial view over Fruita.

Chimney Rock Trail (3.6 miles, moderate): After a short and strenuous climb this trail stays relatively flat as it makes a loop along the sandstone mountains. The views of Fruita and the waterpocket fold are spectacular.

Rim Overlook (4.6 miles, strenuous): It’s a tough hike to get to Rim Overlook but what a view! This viewpoint sits on the edge of cliff high above Fruita. From here, you get one of the best views along the waterpocket fold.

Navajo Knobs (9.5 miles, strenuous): First, you’ll hike to the Rim Overlook. The trail continues to the Navajo Knobs where you have 360-degree views arguably one of the best viewpoints in Capitol Reef National Park.

Cathedrals Trail (2.5 miles, easy): This easy hike offers very nice views of the monoliths of Cathedral Valley. The best part of this hike is the first half as you walk alongside this chain of sandstone formations. The trail ends on top of hill where you have panoramic views of Cathedral Valley.

Headquarters Canyon (2.6 miles, easy): This slot canyon hike is short and sweet. It is located in a remote region of Capitol Reef along Notom-Bullfrog Road so there’s a chance you could have it all to yourself.

Burro Wash, Cottonwood Wash, and Sheets Gulch: These three slot canyons are located relatively close to one another on Notom-Bullfrog Road. They range from 7 to 14 miles round-trip and are moderate to strenuous. There could be pools of water in the canyons. If you are looking for a challenging slot canyon these are hikes to consider.

Sulphur Creek: This 5.8-mile one-way hike is typically done point-to-point which requires a having a second vehicle as a shuttle. This is not a maintained trail so route-finding skills and prior hiking experience are necessary. However, this is a great hike to consider if you want to hike through a deep canyon and in a river similar to the Narrows in Zion.

There are also several great backcountry routes in Capitol Reef. Some of these are long day hikes or overnight backpacking trips. Upper Muley Twist Canyon, Lower Muley Twist Canyon, and Halls Creek Narrows fall into this category.

Capitol Reef Scenic Drive, *Capitol Reef National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

9. Capitol Reef Scenic Drive

One of the best things to do in the park is to drive the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive. This paved road is 7.9 miles long (one way) and takes you past some of the most stunning scenery in the park.

Note: Scenic Drive will be closed summer 2024 for a rehabilitation project. Get the full details on the National Park Service website.

Scenic Drive starts in Fruita and ends at Capitol Gorge Road.

To drive the Scenic Drive you will have to pay a $20 fee. You will pay this at a self-pay station just past the Fruita Campground. The pass is valid for 7 days.

10. Capitol Gorge Road

This short, scenic drive begins where Scenic Drive ends. Capitol Gorge Road is a 2.3 mile gravel road that is suitable for standard vehicles under 27 feet length.

At the end of Scenic Drive the road will fork. Go left to drive Capitol Gorge Road. If you turn right you will drive Pleasant Creek Road, a rougher gravel road that leads to Pleasant Creek, South Draw, and Boulder Mountain.

Capitol Gorge Road is a very pretty scenic drive. This road twists and turns through a canyon and you have wonderful views the entire way. Capitol Gorge Road ends at Capitol Gorge, one of the hiking trails in the park.

11. Pioneer Register

When Mormon settlers passed through this area in the late 18th century and early 19th century they scrawled their names on the canyon walls. This collection of names is called the Pioneer Register. Basically, it is historic graffiti. In this same canyon you can also see American Indian petroglyphs.

Note: Do not write your name or leave any marks on the canyon walls. This area is under surveillance by the national park service and the fine is huge if you get caught writing on the walls.

To get here, you will hike the Capitol Gorge Trail. This trail which enters a wide canyon was the only road through the waterpocket fold until Highway 24 was constructed. It is a 1.5-mile round trip hike to the Pioneer Register although the trail continues through the canyon to The Tanks.

12. Cathedral Valley

Cathedral Valley is the rugged, remote northern district of Capitol Reef National Park. Few people travel out this way to see this valley and its sandstone monoliths, colorful Bentonite hills, and vast desert scenery. But that’s part of its appeal. If you like the idea of leaving the crowds behind and exploring the backcountry, the Cathedral Valley Loop is an awesome drive to put on your to-do list.

The Cathedral Valley Loop is a 58-mile scenic drive that is located north of the historic Fruita district. There are no paved roads on this loop so you must have a high clearance vehicle and having a 4×4 is strongly recommended.

It takes 4 hours to drive the entire loop but with short detours, overlooks, and adding on one or two short hikes, the Cathedral Valley Loop takes a full day.

13. Loop the Fold

This is another incredibly scenic drive in Capitol Reef National Park. This remote drive loops around the waterpocket fold in the southern part of the park. Like Cathedral Valley, Looping the Fold takes roughly one full day.

On this loop, you will drive down Notom-Bullfrog Road. It starts off as a paved road but eventually turns to gravel; however, it is usually suitable for standard cars (after rainstorms, a 4WD may be necessary). Along Notom-Bullfrog Road you have the option to hike many slot canyons. Headquarters Canyon and Surprise Canyon are two very easy slots to add onto this drive.

The loop continues on Burr Trail Road. You’ll climb up the legendary Burr Trail switchbacks and the higher you go the better the views. Hike out to Strike Valley Overlook where you get panoramic views of Strike Valley and Notom-Bullfrog Road (more information above).

Just beyond the overlook the road becomes paved and you enter Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The drive twists and turns through canyons before arriving in Boulder. Take Utah Highway 12 north to return to Torrey and Capitol Reef National Park. Along the way, you will drive up and over Boulder Mountain which offers more incredible views along the way.

This is another incredible experience to have in Capitol Reef National Park. Since it is so remote, crowd levels are extremely low.

14. Strike Valley Overlook

This is one of the most unique viewpoints in Capitol Reef National Park.

From this viewpoint, you are looking out over one of the edges of the waterpocket fold. Nearly 150 million years of geologic history can be seen from here. It’s a beautiful, colorful spot as you look out over Navajo and Entrada sandstone, Mancos Shale, Carmel Formation, and numerous other layers of sedimentary rock.

This is a remote viewpoint and getting here can be a little tricky. If you have plans to Loop the Fold you will drive right past this viewpoint. You can also get here by driving Burr Trail Road from Highway 12.

From Burr Trail Road, a 3-mile access road leads to the trailhead. Standard vehicles will only be able to make it a quarter of a mile down this road then you will have to park and walk the rest of the way. High clearance vehicles should be able to make it to the parking area but sometimes 4WD is necessary.

From the parking area, it is a 0.9 mile round-trip walk to the viewpoint. The Upper Muley Twist Canyon hike also starts here.

How much time do you need in Capitol Reef National Park?

Plan to spend at least a few days in the park. With the scenic drives and hiking trails you could easily spend a week here and never run out of things to do.

With half of a day, you can visit the sights along Highway 24 (Panorama and Sunset Points, Goosenecks Overlook, the petroglyphs, and hike Hickman Bridge) and spend some time in Fruita. This works great if you are driving through Capitol Reef on a road trip through Utah.

With one day in Capitol Reef visit the sights along Highway 24 (Panorama and Sunset Points, Goosenecks Overlook, the petroglyphs, and hike Hickman Bridge), visit Fruita, drive Scenic Drive and Capitol Gorge Road, and add on one more hike (Cassidy Arch, Grand Wash, and Cohab Canyon are all great picks).

With two days in Capitol Reef, follow the suggestions above for day 1 and on day 2 you can hike a longer trail, visit Cathedral Valley, or Loop the Fold.

Each additional day you add will give you more time for scenic drives and hike more trails. If you want to visit Cathedral Valley, Loop the Fold, visit the heart of Capitol Reef, and hike a few of the longer trails, I recommend spending a minimum of four days in Capitol Reef.

Learn more: The Ultimate Guide to Capitol Reef National Park

Best time to visit Capitol Reef National Park

The spring and fall months are the best times to visit Capitol Reef National Park. Weather conditions are pleasant and you can avoid the larger crowds that arrive in the summer.

During the summer months expect soaring temperatures and large crowds (although Capitol Reef does not get the legendary crowds like Bryce Canyon, Arches, and Zion).

During the winter months the park is less crowded but temperatures get below freezing and snow is likely. Snow can close the roads and make hiking more difficult.

How to get to Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park is located in southern Utah. The closest town is Torrey which has several hotels, RV parks, restaurants, and a grocery store.

Most people visit Capitol Reef National Park when road tripping through Utah’s Mighty 5.

Here are the driving distances and times for nearby destinations:

Salt Lake City: 225 miles, 3.5 hours
Moab: 144 miles, 2.5 hours
Goblin Valley State Park: 68 miles, 1.5 hours
Escalante: 75 miles, 1.75 hours
Bryce Canyon National Park: 120 miles, 1.25 hours
Zion National Park: 182 miles, 3.25 hours
Las Vegas: 330 miles, 5 hours

Where to camp

Inside Capitol Reef National Park, Fruita Campground offers 65 reservable sites. Full hookups, or any utilities for that matter, are unavailable. Should you want to stay there, reservations are a must—the earlier the better, as it fills quickly.

If you are up to it, Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and National Forests provide other places to camp. Just remember that these are mostly primitive sites.

Torrey offers several RV parks for visitors exploring the area particularly those visiting Capitol Reef National Park. Here are some of the top RV parks in Torrey:

Sandcreek RV Park: Located 5 miles west of Capitol Reef National Park, this family-owned park offers full hookup RV sites, tent camping, and cabins. They provide free WiFi and are pet-friendly.
Wonderland RV Park: Situated just 3 miles from Capitol Reef, this park offers spacious RV sites with full hookups, tent sites, and log cabins. They provide amenities such as 30/50 amp service, free Wi-Fi, shade trees, and clean restrooms.
Thousand Lakes RV Park: Located 6 miles from Capitol Reef, this park offers stunning views of red rock mountains and sagebrush-covered plateaus. They provide amenities like a pool, playground, laundry facilities, and a gift shop.

These RV parks generally offer similar amenities including full hookups, WiFi, and proximity to Capitol Reef National Park. Many are pet-friendly and provide additional facilities like showers, laundry, and picnic areas. Prices and specific amenities may vary so it’s best to check with each park directly for the most up-to-date information and to make reservations especially during peak travel seasons.

Practical information about Capitol Reef National Park

Park hours: Capitol Reef is open 24 hours a day, 365 days per year.

Park fee: $20 per vehicle, valid for 7 days. You will pay this fee to enter Scenic Drive. You do not need to pay this fee if you only visit the sights along Highway 24 or if you drive the Cathedral Valley loop or Loop the Fold.

More information about Capitol Reef National Park

Planning a visit to the U.S. national parks? Visit From Arches to Zion: The Essential Guide to America’s National Parks to learn more about the parks with important travel planning tips, sample itineraries, advice on when to go, where to stay, and more.

Worth Pondering…

As we crossed the Colorado-Utah border I saw God in the sky in the form of huge gold sunburning clouds above the desert that seemed to point a finger at me and say, “Pass here and go on, you’re on the road to heaven.”

—Jack Kerouac, On the Road

The Ultimate Guide to Snow Canyon State Park

Snow Canyon State Park is filled with great hiking, beautiful Navajo sandstone formations, ancient lava rock (basalt), and out-of-this-world views, so come along, as we tour this amazing hidden gem.

On the edges of ecosystems, eras or civilizations, you’ll find some of the most remarkable travel destinations. Snow Canyon State Park is one such place. Located at the edge of the Mojave Desert, Great Basin, and Colorado Plateau, Snow Canyon State Park explodes with dramatic geology perfect for your outdoor adventure—and photo opportunities.

Cut by water, sculpted by wind and time, Snow Canyon’s Navajo sandstone cliffs share the same history and geology as Zion National Park to the east. You may find yourself wondering why it isn’t a national park.

As recently as 27,000 years ago lava flows exerted their powerful force reshaping the canyons and creating the park’s distinctive landscapes. The blend of Navajo sandstone cliffs, petrified sand dunes, and broad lava fields make this terrain a fantastic playground for both adventurous travelers and families looking to give kids an outlet to expend some of their boundless energy.

Snow Canyon State Park is one of those state parks often overlooked by people touring Utah. While Utah is obviously known for The Mighty Five and as a prime destination for winter recreation as well, there are also 43 state parks. Many of these parks are just as majestic as the national parks but without the crowds. Also, state parks are generally dog friendly.

Snow Canyon State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Where is Snow Canyon State Park?

Snow Canyon State Park is located in southwestern Utah near the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve. If you are planning to stay close to the park, the best city to stay in is St. George because it is just an 11-mile drive.

When to visit Snow Canyon State Park

Spring and fall have average high temperatures of 80 degrees and 73 degrees respectively creating a sweet spot for active adventures at Snow Canyon. Summer can get pretty warm with very little shade available but getting out early in the day is ideal. Winter packs mild temps and all activities remain available.

Despite its name, the park rarely sees snow. (The park is named for Lorenzo and Erastus Snow, Utah pioneers, not the white precipitation.)

History of Snow Canyon State Park

Snow Canyon State Park is about 7,400 acres located within the 62,000 acre Red Cliffs Desert Reserve. The reserve was established to protect the desert tortoise! I wish I would have been able to see one on our visit here. It was created in 1959 and opened to the public in 1962.

It is likely that humans have been using this park for more than 10,000 years based on the artifacts found in the park. The users of the park ranged from Paleoindian mammoth hunters to 19th century settlers.

Why is it called Snow Canyon?

When people hear the word snow they often think of frozen white stuff falling from the sky. While it is possible for Snow Canyon to receive snow, it’s not common.

Snow Canyon was originally called Dixie State Park but was later renamed. The snow in Snow Canyon is in reference to two early Utah leaders, Lorenzo and Erastus Snow.

The park is also known as movie sets for a few Hollywood films such as Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Things to do at Snow Canyon State Park

There are more than 38 miles of hiking trails, excellent biking trails, opportunities for technical climbing, and more than 15 miles of equestrian trails.

Hiking

Hiking is the prime activity in the canyon. As soon as you drive in, you can quickly see why. Gorgeous red and white sandstone streaks together with black lava flows spilling along the canyon floor- create a perfect playground for exploring on foot. Along with slot canyons to enter and lava tubes to explore, the sweeping vistas and overlooks might have you grabbing for your camera. You’ll need more than one day to do a thorough job of exploring the park’s 18 hiking trails

Check out my list of the most popular below. Distances are roundtrip.

Note: Most of these trails do not have shade. Come prepared with water (1 liter per person) and plenty of sun protection (UV clothing, sunscreen, wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses).

Lava Flow Trail

Distance: 2.5 miles

Difficulty: Moderate, some uneven surfaces

Hike through a jumbled lava field, the vivid remains of a long ago volcanic eruption.

The Lava Flow Trail, also known as the Lava Tubes is a 2.5 mile, family-friendly trail that takes you back in time. The trail takes you past three lava cave entrances. Entering the caves can be a little dangerous as it can get dark and slippery at times. There is a dedicated parking for the trail head.

Jenny’s Canyon Trail

Distance: 0.5 miles

Difficulty: Easy, level with a few slopes and steps

This is a very short trail with easy access from the road; a great children’s trail that leads to a short, sculpted slot canyon. According to the park brochure, kids enjoy this trail the most due to the geological features and because it’s a slot canyon.

It will take you half an hour to complete the hike but it might take you longer if you decide to take time to admire the Snow Canyon Sand Dunes on your way.

Petrified Dunes Trail

Distance: 1.2 miles

Difficulty: Moderate, some uneven surfaces and steep slopes

This route crosses massive Navajo sandstone outcrops and sand dunes frozen in time.

A favorite of many, this hike takes you to one of the best viewpoints of the park. The trail is relatively well marked but you’ll definitely want to wander around and explore the unique formations in the area. It’s located in the heart of Snow Canyon State Park and one of the most photographed hikes in the canyon due to its unique beauty.

Pioneer Names Trail

Distance: 0.5 miles

Difficulty: Easy, fairly level with some steps and slopes

This crescent-shaped trail passes pioneer names written in axle grease dating back to 1881.

This trail is accessible from two different parking lots. From the North lot, it is less than a quarter-mile to the end and the southern lot is a little more than a mile long. The hike takes you to a canyon wall that was written on by early pioneers. The axle grease writing has been preserved by an arch that hangs over it and provides a reminder of the early settlers in the area. It’s a sandy trail, so make sure to bring a good pair of shoes.

Butterfly Trail

Distance: 2 miles

Difficulty: Moderate, some steep slopes, steps, and uneven surfaces

Winding along the west side of Petrified Dunes this trail leads to West Canyon Overlook and lava tubes.

You can access this trail from its own parking lot or continue from Petrified Dunes Trail (see above) since they intersect. It is best known for winding along the petrified dunes and leads to several overlooks and lava tubes.

The best time to do it is in spring and fall. Start in the morning to better appreciate the great views. It’s not a family hike since it has plenty of uneven surfaces.

Johnson Canyon Trail

Distance: 2 miles

Difficulty: Easy, level with some rocky slopes and steps

Leads to a sheltered canyon of willow and cottonwood winding through lava flows and red rocks to an arch spanning 200 feet.

Passing through stream beds, lava flows, and a beautiful canyon this trail is a grand experience. The canyon is more shaded than many of the other hikes making it one of the best hikes for the summer and fall months. It’s a great place to take a rest and enjoy quality time with your family and friends, and it will only take 1 hour to hike it. This trail also has seasonal closures, so check the availability before you plan your trip.

Biking

Besides simply biking the main road through the park, two other bike-friendly trails exist. The first is Whiptail Trail, an out-and-back, paved path that runs from the south entrance and through about two-thirds of the canyon. Delightful for bikers of all experience levels but the last quarter mile is steep. There’s always the option to turnaround before this steep climb.

The second bike path is West Canyon Road. Once a road, as its name suggests, it is a dirt and gravel path. Beefier tires than those of a road bike are needed but you won’t need a high-end mountain bike to enjoy this trail. The road runs four miles up the canyon and takes the west fork at the end of the canyon that will lead you past the Whiterocks Amphitheater at the northern end. This path traverses parts of the park that no other trail will show or lead to.

Access the West Canyon Road at Sand Dunes picnic and parking area for an eight-mile round-trip excursion.

Rock Climbing

Well-known for its incredible rock cliffs, you’ll find from short sports clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes in Snow Canyon. With more than 7,100 acres available, rock climbing is one of the top outdoor activities to do here. Take a look at these areas and pick your next rock climbing route.

For a full list, visit mountainproject.com.

Johnson Canyon

Ideal for trad climbing, this trail allows you to descend at the dead end of Johnson Canyon. If you go during the week, it is almost always empty so you will have the wall for yourself. These are the coordinations: 37.17970°N / 113.6347°W. You can climb all year long.

Hackberry Wash

At this trail, you can do trad and sport climbing. If, if you are coming from St George this will be the first crag in the park. It is close to Jenny Trail (see above). The best time to climb is spring, fall, and winter.

Island of the Sky

This sandstone is located in the middle of Snow Canyon. To reach the top you have ledges, dihedrals, and ramps that will be a huge help. The level of difficulty is moderate and it has an elevation of 3,780 feet. There is no easy pathway in this sandstone, be prepared. You can visit any time of the year.

Balkan Dome

One of the shortest routes in Snow Canyon but is fun to try. You can reach this part via the Pioneer Names Trail (see above). Everything is covered with sandstone that sometimes makes it harder to climb, so be patient. Is located across the Islands of the Sky and is an ideal route for sport climbing. The best time to go is summer, fall, and spring.

West Canyon

Probably the most complete trail since you can not only do trad and sport climbing but also hike. This canyon features five routes that range from 5.8 to 5.11c. You can access it via the Three Ponds trail. The coordination is 37.19330°N / 113.6425°W.

Horseback riding

There are several trails open to horseback riding in Snow Canyon: Beck Hill Trail, Chuckwalla Trail, Gila Trail, Lava Flow (only between West Canyon Road and turn-off to White Rocks Trail), Rusty Cliffs, Scout Cave Trail, Red Sands (from West Canyon Road Trail to the west), Toe Trail, West Canyon Road, and the equestrian trail (starting at Johnson’s canyon lot and running parallel to whiptail until the sand dunes lot, from here the trail parallels West Canyon Road).

If you don’t have your own horses, a guided experience is offered by local companies. Take a leisurely stroll with an equestrian friend and soak in the views, floral, and fauna and everything Snow Canyon has to offer the senses.

Petroglyphs

If you hike the Gila Trail to about the halfway mark, trail markers designate petroglyph sites. These illustrations, carved into stone by Native Americans, are delicate historical landmarks and are fun to examine.

Canyoneering

Canyoneering combines hiking with rappelling allowing exploration into slot canyons and down-climbing through the canyon. It’s a unique outdoor adventure that doesn’t exist in most places but the area has lots of options. Snow Canyon has two canyoneering routes, both of which require an access permit. If you want to explore Island in the Sky or Arch Canyon, secure a permit through the state park’s website or contact a guide company to take you.

Wildlife

Snow Canyon isn’t just famous for its hiking trails, rock climbing walls, and sandstone cliffs but also for its unique wildlife. You can find coyotes, kit foxes, quail and roadrunner, and sometimes tortoises and peregrine falcons in this State Park.

Millions of people come from across the country to watch leopard lizards, gopher snakes, canyon tree frogs, and sometimes tortoises and peregrine falcons.

There are thirteen sensitive species protected by law within the park including the Gila Monster which is the only venomous lizard in the United States. The best time to watch the wildlife is at dawn and dusk. You will have plenty of time to go hiking and observe the wildlife since the park opens at 6:00 am and closes at 10:00 pm.

Camping

A night or two under the stars is the perfect escape from a fast-paced lifestyle. Snow Canyon State Park is the ideal place to find those stars and quiet nights. The campsites will have you feeling like you’re camping in the Flintstones’ backyard with views of a cinder cone towering above and petroglyphs etched into rocks.

There are 29 camping sites at the Snow Canyon State Park; 13 are standard sites with no hookups and 16 are sites with partial hookups that come with water and electricity. Most sites are not big-rig friendly. Group camping is also available. All sites are reservable online through reserveamerica.com.

Final thoughts

Snow Canyon State Park is truly one of the most beautiful places in all of Utah! Southern Utah is a well-known location for outdoor activities and Snow Canyon should be on any outdoor lover’s list whether you visit with friends or family.

Snow Canyon State Park FAQ

Is Snow Canyon State Park worth visiting?

Absolutely! It’s one of the most popular parks in Southern Utah and has so many hidden gems like the Petrified Dunes or Lava Tubes that will blow your mind. It’s a great place to try new outdoor activities like hiking, biking, rock climbing, horseback riding, and camping. Also, it’s less crowded than Zion National Park or any other National Park located in Utah.

Are dogs and other pets allowed in the park?

If you’re planning a trip with your furry friend, this is going to make you really happy because you’re allowed to bring them with you! However, they must be on a leash around the campground and they can only accompany you to the Whiptail Trail and the West Canyon Rim Trail. Take into consideration that the leash must be a maximum of six-feet long.

Details

Address: 1002 N. Snow Canyon Road, Ivins, UT 84738

Phone: 435-628-2255

Hours of operation: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

Directions

From I-15 northbound: Take exit 6 (Bluff Street). Go north on Bluff Street to the intersection with Snow Canyon Parkway. Turn left onto Snow Canyon Parkway and proceed approximately 3.5 miles and turn right onto Snow Canyon Drive. Follow this road to the south entrance of the park.

From I-15 southbound: Take exit 10 (Washington). Turn right off the ramp then an immediate left at the light. Follow this road for approximately 5 miles to the intersection with Bluff Street/ SR-18. Proceed through the light and continue on Snow Canyon Parkway for approximately 3.5 miles and turn right onto Snow Canyon Drive. Follow this road to the south entrance of the park.

Day-use fees:

Utah resident: $10 per vehicle (up to eight people); $5 per vehicle (up to eight people); seniors 65 and older (with UT driver’s license); $5 pedestrian/cyclists (up to four people)

Non-resident: $15 per vehicle (up to eight people); $5 pedestrian/cyclist (up to four people)

Camping fees:

Non-hookup sites: Standard sites $40 per night; hookup sites (water/electric) $45 per night; extra vehicle fees (one extra vehicle per site permitted) $20 per night

Worth Pondering…

Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike.

—John Muir

Finding Adventure (Without the Crowds) in Utah

Avoid the masses but not the epic adventures at these breathtaking under-the-radar desert landscapes around Moab

From Jurassic-era dunes and prehistoric petroglyphs to amber-tinted cliffs and spires, Moab is an adventure traveler’s dream. Located in the heart of the Colorado Plateau, this small city in southeast Utah is one of North America’s greatest outdoor recreation hubs and a gateway to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.

Millions of years of erosion by ancient oceans, freshwater lakes, streams, and windblown dunes shaped this region’s 2,400 square miles of sandstone arches, picturesque mountain peaks, Martian-like rock formations, and colorful mesas and canyons.

Along the Colorado River near Moab *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Mountain bikers, hikers, campers, climbers, paddlers, and off-road drivers arrive in droves to explore this red rock playground in jaw-dropping numbers—more than 3 million visitors annually.

With increasing use come big problems! Overcrowding and overuse of trails, campgrounds, and recreation facilities led Arches to institute a timed entry reservation system between April and October. Other popular national parks have implemented similar measures encouraging people to come during off-peak times or explore other nearby recreation areas.

But here’s the good news: The National Park Service (NPS) manages other parks, monuments, recreation areas, and historic areas within a day’s drive from Moab including Aztec Ruins National Monument, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Hovenweep National Monument, Mesa Verde National Park, and Natural Bridges National Monument. About 94 percent of the land surrounding Moab is public meaning there are also plenty of lesser-visited state parks and federal recreation areas extending into the Greater Moab region to discover.

For adventurers and nature lovers who want to see more of the great outdoors—and less of each other—here are five tips to beat the crowds and explore the elements in Moab this spring.

Devils Garden Campground, Arches National Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

1. Get crafty about campsites

Many of the private RV parks, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and state and federally owned campgrounds demand ample planning time. Campgrounds closer to U.S. Route 191 and Utah Routes 128 and 279 along the Colorado River (The Riverway) usually fill up by mid-morning.

Getting one of the 51 campsites at Devils Garden Campground—the only developed campsite in Arches—can be challenging without some pre-trip planning. During the high season (March 1-October 31), sites are reservable up to six months in advance. But from November 1 to February 28 when temperatures are cooler, the campground is first-come, first-served.

For fewer crowds, venture to Canyon Rims Recreation Area, an hour’s drive south of Moab on Route 191. It has two campgrounds to stage your hiking, biking, and driving adventures—Hatch Point in the north and Windwhistle in the south which rarely fills up and don’t require reservations. Be sure to stop at one of the park’s visitor centers and ranger stations to get the scoop on current park conditions and for other trail and campground suggestions.

Camping at Dead Horse Point State Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Explore public lands south of Moab

Parks closer to downtown Moab (just five miles from Arches National Park) are usually slammed with eager outdoor enthusiasts, especially during summer months. While spring (April through May) and fall (mid-September through October) still have crowds, they are some of the best times to score prime campsites and experience uncrowded trails, climbing routes, and iconic arches around the city.

During the busy seasons, visiting Moab can be kind of overwhelming but the public lands around Moab offer remarkable remote experiences.

With breathtaking views into Canyonlands National Park and the Colorado River 2,000 feet below, Dead Horse Point State Park, a 40-minute drive south of Moab is a highlight for hikers and photographers exploring canyon country. The park, named for an era when cowboys corralled wild mustang herds on the high mesa is also a terrific first outing for bikers new to the area. The 16-mile Intrepid Trail System offers a variety of single-track loops and slickrock (Moab’s weathered sandstone) sections that allow all ages and abilities to experience incomparable cliff-top and canyon vistas.

Drive further south to Canyon Rims, a 100,000-acre BLM-maintained land between Moab and Monticello to peer over one of three spectacular overlooks—Anticline, Minor, and Needles. Each offers unique views of Canyonlands’ Islands in the Sky and Needles Districts and Bears Ears National Monument’s Indian Creek and Lockhart Basin sections. These sites are comparable to those seen from the rim of the Grand Canyon but without the shoulder-to-shoulder visitor experience.

Natural Bridges National Monument *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Bike away from the crowds

With its seven new non-motorized trails, updated signage, and fresh markings on existing trails plus stunning views of the Salt Valley and Arches National Park, Klondike Bluffs should be on every biker’s list. Just a 30-minute drive north of Moab, this 58-mile single-track trail on dirt and slickrock includes 26 named paths from beginner to advanced which can be combined into loops of any length. It’s the first trail that visitors pass on the way to Moab from I-70 in the north making it the most accessible for cyclists coming from Denver or Salt Lake City.

Further into the park is the Dinosaur Stomping Grounds hiking trail which features several dinosaur trackways and individual dinosaur prints. Paleontologists believe Utah was part of an island landmass called Laramidia where a wide range of dinosaur species roamed more than 75 million years ago.

Indian Creek Scenic Byway *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Plan a desert road trip

Recreation areas south of Moab such as Canyon Rims and Bear Ears National Monument are usually less crowded due to fewer developed trail systems. Take a scenic drive through Utah’s vibrant vermillion canyons, over plateaus of mesas and buttes, and around the region’s open plains of grass and shrubland.

In Canyon Rims, travelers may spot pronghorn antelope near Hatch Point and can cruise to remote overlooks with breathtaking views of Canyonlands and the Colorado River.

Rather than endure the hours-long wait to see Delicate Arch in Arches, drive an hour south of Moab to reach Bear Ears’ Indian Creek Scenic Byway. This 40-mile-long route takes travelers through flat-top buttes and colossal sandstone towers. Along the way, make a pitstop at Newspaper Rock, one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in the world.

Newspaper Rock *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Hike in solitude

A hike around Moab’s natural spaces reveals deep red canyons, buttes, and pinnacles. Summer brings high temperatures and midday crowds around Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. To get around that, experienced adventurers plan their hikes and bike rides in the morning and evening, bringing the best sunlight for photography. To help photographers, the NPS has created a table of the park’s notable landscape features and the best time to photograph them.

For a quieter trek outside the national parks head three miles from the Hatch Point campground in Canyon Rims to Trough Springs Canyon trail a relatively easy five-mile roundtrip hike. It starts at the top of the plateau and descends 2.5 miles into the canyon where a creek flows year-round. The path continues through the waterway’s riparian zone, riddled with tamarisk, cottonwoods, and willow. Follow the stream into the larger Kane Creek Canyon where a popular but difficult 4×4 off-road trail of the same name invites adventurers to explore.

Upper Colorado River Scenic Byway *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Downstream, where Kane Creek approaches the Colorado River, travelers find several ancient rock art sites, including Moonflower Canyon Panel, Elephant Panel, and False Kiva. The drawings resembling bighorn sheep and hunters with spears along with crescent moons, lightning bolts, and snakes tell the story of the nomadic Puebloans (formerly called Anasazi) who briefly farmed and built dwellings and granaries—used to store squash, maize, and beans—around the region.

Even today, potsherds (or pottery fragments) can be found poking out of the sand near surviving granaries but visitors should be careful to leave these artifacts untouched.

Worth Pondering…

…the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth—there is nothing else like it anywhere.

—Edward Abbey, American author and former ranger at Arches National Park, on Canyonlands

A Hiker’s Paradise: White Tank Mountain Regional Park

A top notch location in the greater Phoenix area for a hike in the desert with thirty miles of trails that range anywhere from as short as a mile to several of them exceeding five miles or more

Nearly 30,000 acres makes White Tank Mountain the largest regional park in Maricopa County. Most of the park is made up of the rugged and beautiful White Tank Mountains on the Valleys west side. The range, deeply serrated with ridges and canyons rises sharply from its base to peak at over 4,000 feet. Infrequent heavy rains cause flash floodwaters to plunge through the canyons and pour onto the plain. These torrential flows pouring down chutes and dropping off ledges have scoured out a series of depressions, or tanks, in the white granite rock below, thus giving the mountains their name.

White Tank Mountain Regional Park *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

White Tank Mountain History

Eleven archeological sites occupied during the time period A.D. 500-1100 were located within the boundaries of White Tank Mountain Regional Park. All of these sites can be attributed to the Hohokam Indians. The White Tanks were apparently abandoned by the Hohokam about A.D. 1100. There is no further indication of human occupation until the historic period when the Western Yavapai controlled the area.

Ruggedness of terrain and scarcity of water restricted the sites to large canyons leading out of the mountains. In these canyons, the sites include seven villages varying from 1 to 75 acres in area, a rock shelter in the face of a steep cliff overlooking the white tanks, and several shard areas. Several of the villages appear to have been occupied for long periods by sizeable populations while the shard areas may represent temporary camps of hunters and gatherers.

Most of the sites in the area are concentrated around the White Tanks themselves. The Tanks probably held water the year-round and thereby drew people to the region. Petroglyphs on rocks indicate the Indians were more than transients. Pottery shards along the Agua Fria and Hassayampa signify the presence of villages and the likelihood that an Indian trail connected the streams with the White Tank long before Europeans came into the area. The discovery of possible agricultural terraces or check dams indicates that farming may have been carried on in the various canyons of the White Tank Mountains by utilizing seasonal runoff and rain water.

About the Petroglyphs

Ancient Arizonans pecked hundreds of figures and symbols on the rock faces of the White Tank Mountains. Some may approach 10,000 years old. All have withstood sun, rain, and vandals for 700 or 800 years or more.

The Black Rock Trail circles through a Hohokam village site though the pit houses and trash mounds are hidden to all but the trained eye of an archeologist. The largest group of rock-art panels is along the Waterfall Canyon Trail at “Petroglyph Plaza”. Another big group is near the entrance to the box canyon that gives the trail its name.

A rock drawing was serious business to its maker. While no one can say precisely what most of them “mean”, we know they had important functions in the lives of their makers. They were not simply stone-age graffiti. The symbols recorded events and marked locations. They were a magical way to control nature so rain would fall or mountain sheep would let themselves be caught. Some served as trail markers and maps. Others represented religious concepts.

Do not try to make “tombstone rubbings” of the petroglyphs. It does not work and you will erode the dark areas making the petroglyph dimmer. Look at and photograph these figures and symbols of history but do not touch the petroglyphs as skin oils can also damage them.

White Tank Mountain Hiking Trails

White Tank Mountain Regional Park offers approximately 30 miles of excellent shared-use trails ranging in length from 0.9 mile to 7.9 miles and difficulty from easy to strenuous. Overnight backpacking with a permit is allowed in established backcountry campsites. Day hikes can provide some breathtaking views of the mountains and panoramas of the Valley below. Horseback and mountain bike riders are welcome although caution is stressed as some of the trails may be extremely difficult.

In addition, there are 2.5 miles of pedestrian-only trails. These include two short trails that are hard-surfaced and barrier free. Waterfall Trail is barrier-free for 5/10 of a mile. The handicap accessible portion now ends about 1/10 of a mile past Petroglyph Plaza. The short loop of Black Rock Trail which is about ½ mile long begins at Ramada 4.

All trails are multi-use unless otherwise designated. All trail users are encouraged to practice proper trail etiquette. Always remember to carry plenty of water and let someone know where you are going. Heavy sole shoes are a must as well as sunscreen, and a large-brimmed hat (I recommend a Tilley hat).

White Tank Mountain Picnic Areas

White Tank Mountain Regional Park offers 240 picnic tables with grills, 80 of which have a small cover. Eleven Group Picnic Sites are available for large groups. These ramadas can be reserved for a fee in four-hour increments. If not marked as reserved, they are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

White Tank Mountain Camping

White Tank Mountain Regional Park offers 40 individual sites for RV camping. Most sites have a large parking area to accommodate up to a 45-foot RV and offer water and electrical hook-ups, a picnic table, a barbecue grill, a fire ring, and nearby dump station. All restrooms offer flush toilets and showers. All sites in the campground may be reserved online at maricopacountyparks.org.

White Tank Mountain Regional Park

Directions: White Tank Mountain Regional Park is located at the very west end of Olive Ave about 15 miles west of the 101 (Agua Fria Highway).

NORTH: Take Highway 303 south and exit at PEORIA AVE. Turn right from the off-ramp and travel west for 1 mile on Peoria Ave to Cotton Lane. Turn left (south) onto Cotton Lane until you get to Olive Ave. Turn right (west) on Olive Ave and continue 4 miles to the park gate.

SOUTH: Take Highway 303 north and exit at NORTHERN AVE. Turn left (west) at the light and off-ramp onto Northern Ave, traveling west for 1 mile to Cotton Lane. Turn right (north) onto Cotton lane and travel 1 mile to Olive Ave. Turn left (west) onto Olive Ave and continue for 4 miles to the park gate.

Admission: $7 per vehicle.

Worth Pondering…

This was as the desert should be, this was the desert of the picture books, with the land unrolled to the farthest distant horizon hills, with saguaros standing sentinel in their strange chessboard pattern, towering supinely above the fans of ocotillo and brushy mesquite.

—Dorothy B. Hughes

Adventure in Albuquerque: Petroglyph National Monument

A petroglyph is an image on stone, created by removing part of the surface of the rock by pecking, carving, etching, or abrading with a tool or harder stone

Greetings on day 1,999 of lockdown! Oh, wait, that’s not correct. It just feels that way.

Just remember, this isn’t forever, but you have to know what’s out there before you can step back into the world of RV travel. Today we keep the fire going as we head to the Land of Enchantment.

Standing amid a jumble of basalt boulders, I paused after pulling myself up a steep climb of coffee-colored rock. We’re hiking appropriately named Boca Negra Canyon of the Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquerque, and so far the rock art hasn’t exactly been jumping out at me. But as I pause to rest and finally consider the beauty of the canyon, petroglyphs begin to emerge before me.

Round faces, turtles and birds, brands and crosses, and lightning bolt-like patterns appear plain as day where I was looking on the fly just moments before. Sometimes you cover more ground and observe more beauty when standing still.

These images are inseparable from the greater cultural landscape, from the spirits of the people who created them, and from all who appreciate them today.

While it may be tempting to reach out your hand, don’t touch! Oils from your skin can permanently damage the petroglyphs.

Petroglyph National Monument and Albuquerque © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Jointly managed by the National Park Service and the City of Albuquerque, Petroglyph National Monument comprises 7,236 acres of a volcanic basalt escarpment created by ancient lava flows along 17 miles of Albuquerque’s west escarpment, known as the West Mesa. The monument protects a variety of cultural and natural resources, including five volcanic cones, hundreds of archeological sites, and an estimated 25,000 images carved into these dark rock outcroppings.

About 150,000 year ago lava seeped from an enormous fissure here, covering the landscape like a prehistoric parking lot. Over time, cooling and erosion cracked the hardened lava. In many areas the ripples of once-hot lava can be seen in rock fragments.

By pecking the flat basalt, ancient artists found they could chisel away the dark desert varnish that had coated the rock and expose lighter rock beneath, creating a contrast that is still striking today. Basalt has a high iron content, and the rocks’ dark interior is basically rust. Creating a petroglyph was no small undertaking, as it took considerable time to etch the rock.

The National Park Service Las Imagenes Visitor Center and book store is located off Unser Boulevard at Western Trail. We began our visit here with a brief orientation to the monument and checked the schedule for ranger guided tours and special events before lacing up our hiking boots and hitting the trail at Boca Negra Canyon, a 70-acre section of the monument. Each trail offers a diverse view of the cultural and natural landscape within the monument.

Located two miles north of the visitor center on Unser Boulevard, Boca Negra Canyon provides quick and easy access to three partly paved self-guiding trails where you can view 200 petroglyphs.

This is the most popular section of the monument, and is the only fully-developed area with restroom facilities, shade, and a drinking fountain. A nominal parking fee is charged by the City of Albuquerque.

Mostly, the national monument’s expanse of open space is undeveloped save for interpretative signs and facilities along the few developed trails at Boca Negra Canyon, Rinconada Canyon, and the volcano’s trails. Otherwise, silence and isolation are yours just minutes from New Mexico’s largest city.

Located one mile south of the visitor center on Unser Boulevard, Rinconada Canyon is one of the few places, where at the end of the trail you can be out of sight of the city.

A 2½-mile round-trip sandy trail follows the base of the escarpment where you can view more than 800 petroglyphs. This trail area has no water, so bring your own. You are advised to stop at the visitor center for an orientation and map before hiking this trail.

The northernmost area of the monument, Piedras Marcadas Canyon, means “canyon of marked rocks”. Piedras Marcadas is home to the densest concentration of petroglyphs along the monument’s 17-mile escarpment, with an estimated 5,000 images. This area may be entered from a small parking lot west of Golf Course Road.

This trail area has no water, so bring your own. You are advised to stop at the visitor center for an orientation and map before hiking this trail.

Worth Pondering…

Each of these rocks is alive, keeper of a message left by the ancestors…There are spirits, guardians; there is medicine…

—William F. Weahkee, Pueblo Elder

Place of the Great Rock: El Morro National Monument

El Morro National Monument is a fascinating mixture of both human and natural history

Rising 200 feet above the valley floor, this massive sandstone bluff was a welcome landmark for weary travelers. A reliable year-round source of drinking water at its base made El Morro a popular campsite in this otherwise rather arid and desolate country.

At the base of the bluff—often called Inscription Rock—on sheltered smooth slabs of stone, are seven centuries of inscriptions covering human interaction with this spot.

El Moro National Monument © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

This massive mesa point forms a striking landmark. In fact, El Morro means “the headland.” From its summit, rain and melted snow drain into a natural basin at the foot of the cliff, creating a constant and dependable supply of water. The pool also attracts birds, coyotes, deer, and other wild creatures.

A pre-Columbian route from Acoma and the Rio Grande valley to the Zuni pueblos led directly past El Morro, probably marking it as a favored camping site for prehistoric travelers.

Beginning in the late 1500s Spanish, and later, Americans passed by El Morro. While they rested in its shade and drank from the pool, many carved their signatures, dates, and messages. Before the Spanish, petroglyphs were inscribed by Ancestral Puebloans living on top of the bluff over 700 years ago.

The softness of the light-colored sandstone made it easy to carve pictures, names, dates, and messages. Ironically, that is also the reason that the famous inscriptions are slowly disappearing.

Today, El Morro is one of New Mexico’s smaller national monuments, hidden away in forested, high elevation (7,219 feet), little-traveled land towards the northwest of the state. Some of the surroundings are volcanic, including nearby El Malpais National Monument on the far side of the continental divide, and other parts are featureless grassy plains.

The oldest Spanish carving found on El Morro reads, “Paso por aqui, el adelantado Don Juan de Oñate, del descubrimiento de la mar del sur a 16 de Abril de 1605.”

Translated, the inscription proclaims: “Passed by here, the expedition leader Don Juan de Oñate, from the discovery of the Sea of the South the 16th of April of 1605.”

Not the first Spaniard to see the mesa, Diego Pérez de Luxan, chronicler of an exploring expedition led by Antonio de Espejo, recorded in his journal that the party had camped in March 1583 at a location he called El Estanque de Peñol (The Place at the Great Rock). However, no record of the expedition’s passing has been found on the mesa.

The Spanish reigned in New Mexico for nearly 200 years. After being driven out by the Pueblo Rebellion of 1680, they took back control twelve years later and ruled for generations.

General de Vargas recorded his victory in this way: “Here was the General Don Diego de Vargas, who conquered for our Holy Faith and for the Royal Crown all of New Mexico at his own expense, year of 1692.”

The final inscription in Spanish was dated 1774. The Spanish lost control of their North American territories to the Mexicans who in turn lost them to the United States during the Mexican-American War of the 1840s. At the close of the Mexican War in 1848, New Mexico became a U.S. territory, and the arrival of the Americans opened a new chapter in El Moro’s long history.

In 1849, Lt. James Simpson, an Army topographical engineer, and Richard Kern, an artist, were the first Americans to carve their names on El Morro. More significantly, however, Kern sketched many of the inscriptions and brought them to national attention.

After Simpson and Kern, many American wagon trains carrying emigrants to California passed and, as the Anasaziand Spaniards did before them, they left a record of their presence.

The main thing to see is Inscription Loop Trail, a half mile walk past numerous Spanish and Anglo inscriptions, as well as pre–historic petroglyphs.

Before venturing out be sure to view the short informative film in the visitor center and pick up a copy of the trail guide to assist you in spotting and understanding the various inscriptions.

You can continue your walk up to the top of the mesa for some great views and to see the partially-excavated ruins of an Ancestral Puebloan village.

Although all can be seen in just a couple of hours, El Morro is an unusual and evocative place, well worth a detour to visit.

Worth Pondering…

Traveling is almost like talking with men of other centuries.

Getting Closer to Nature at Capitol Reef

Capitol Reef National Park is a hidden treasure filled with cliffs, canyons, domes, and bridges

Even considering Utah’s many impressive national parks it is difficult to rival Capitol Reef’s sense of expansiveness, of broad, sweeping vistas, of a tortured, twisted, seemingly endless landscape or of limitless sky and desert rock.

While Bryce and Zion are like enveloped fantasy lands of colored stone and soaring cliffs, the less-visited Capitol Reef is almost like a planet unto itself. Here you get a real feel for what the earth might have been like millions of years before life appeared, when nothing existed but earth and sky.

Capitol Reef National Park is an expressive world of spectacular colored cliffs, hidden arches, massive domes, and deep canyons. It’s a place that includes the finest elements of Bryce and Zion in a less crowded park that offers a more relaxing experience than either of those more-traveled Utah attractions.

The park preserves the 100-mile Waterpocket Fold, a mammoth buckling of the earth’s surface with colorful canyons, tortured desert, and numerous bridges and arches (“waterpocket” refers to the potholes that dot the sandstone and fill with rainwater). The park’s name combines the popular term for an uplifted landmass, “reef,” with a visual resemblance of the park’s many white Navajo Sandstone domes to that of the nation’s Capitol Building.

In some parks you really need to get away from the road to find the best scenery, but in Capitol Reef there is a plentitude of beauty that can be accessed by vehicle. Views in Capitol Reef are considerably more “open” than those in Zion, which is rather confined by the narrow canyons.

A logical place to start is the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive, a 25-mile round trip paved road that is lined with pullouts that allow you to stop and take it all in. One highly recommended stop is the Panorama Point/ Goosenecks view area on the park’s west end.

From this scenic drive several short side drives on well-maintained dirt/gravel roads can be negotiated in virtually any vehicle. The first of these, Grand Wash, is sort of like taking a Disneyland ride in your own car. The hike through the Narrows, from the trailhead at the end of the Grand Wash drive is recommended.

You can take the entire 2.5-mile walk which ends at Highway 24, or just go about 0.25 mile to a cutback trail (somewhat steep) on the left to visit Cassidy Arch, where Butch is said to have hung out.

You should definitely drive out to the end of the unpaved but well-maintained 2.2-mile Capitol Gorge spur, a few miles farther along the scenic drive. It is hard to imagine a more unusual driving experience: The gorge ends in a narrow channel carved between sheer cliffs.

After a visit to Capitol Reef’s rocky wilderness, the green groves and fruit orchards around the intersection of Highway 24 and the park scenic drive are a cool and welcome sight. Just after the turn of the century, the Mormon community of Fruita, nestled in the shaded canyon formed by the Fremont River, was a lively, vibrant town of nearly 50. Though most of Fruita’s residents gradually moved away after Capitol Reef’s establishment as a national monument, the fields and orchards remained.

Visitors may even pick small quantities of fruit: cherries in June, apricots in July, pears in August, and apples in September. Look for U-Pick signs and be prepared to pay a small donation for any fruit you take with you. The money, collected on an honor system, goes to maintain the orchards—a very worthy cause.

While in the Fruita area check out other historic attractions including the Fruita Schoolhouse, old Blacksmith Shop, the Fremont petroglyphs, and the Gifford Homestead, which in addition to offering a snapshot of pioneer life, bakes the harvest of the season into incredible pies. The one-room schoolhouse built in 1896 remained in use until 1941.

Past the old schoolhouse the petroglyph trail continues for a mile to to Hickman Natural Bridge. This is perhaps one of the best park walks in all of Utah with scenic views and glimpses of Fremont Culture ruins. In this lightly traveled part of the world you will probably have this highly recommended walk mostly to yourself.

Worth Pondering…

I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.

—John Burroughs

Rock That Tells a Story: Newspaper Rock

Newspaper Rock features a rock panel carved with one of the largest, best preserved, and easily accessible collections of petroglyphs in the Southwest

Extra, extra, read all about it! The reviews are in: You can see all the news you can’t actually read at one of the West’s most famous rock art sites. And there’s no fake news here!

Native American Indians have been engraving and drawing on Newspaper Rock for more than 2,000 years. Their markings in these ruins tell the stories, hunting patterns, crop cycles, and mythologies of their lives. But what exactly these petroglyphs are communicating, we’ll never know for there is no actual translation available at this remarkable Utah attraction.
Newspaper Rock is located 15 miles west of U.S. 191 along the 41-mile Indian Creek Corridor Scenic Byway (S.R. 211) in Bears Ears National Monument, now part of the 71,896-acre Indian Creek unit designated December 4, 2017 by U.S. President Donald Trump.

Bears Ears National Monument includes red rock, juniper forests, high plateau, and an abundance of early human and Native American historical artifacts. The Navajo Nation, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Hopi Nation, and other tribes are tied to this land.

A petroglyph panel of such renown, Newspaper Rock was listed on the National Register of Historic Places long before either Bears Ears National Monument or Indian Creek added prominence to the remote corner of Utah. The landmark is covered with images of animals, people, ancient symbols, and depictions of the natural world etched into the rock by peoples from the Fremont, Ute, and Ancient Puebloan (Anasazi) Native American tribes. It’s surmised that the perennial natural spring attracted ancients to this distinctive area of Utah.

As one of the largest collections of petroglyphs in the country, Utah’s Newspaper Rock State Historic Monument is like a living museum. However, thankfully, you don’t have to peer at the pristine rock art through glass at this site.

The rock is called Tse’ Hane in Navajo, or “rock that tells a story.” There are over 650 rock art designs here that feature a mixture of forms, including pictures resembling humans, animals, tools, and more esoteric, abstract things. The 200-square-foot rock site is a part of the cliffs along the upper end of Indian Creek Canyon.

Indian Creek Canyon is a popular Utah destination for rock climbers who flock to the Wingate sandstone for its pristine cracks, which are scaled with traditional climbing aids. However, nature lovers will still get much out of the scenic drive; better still, the road leads to The Needles District of Canyonlands National Park, which offers a number of great hiking trails ranging from family-friendly walks through historically significant places to overnight backpacking trips.

Standing at the base of the 200-square-foot rock and trying to decipher what the ancients were trying to communicate, craning your neck to count all of the artwork, sketching and replicating some of the petroglyphs in your own notepad, losing count when you try to see who can count the most antelope, driving the awe-inspiring byway and looking at all of the massive, perfectly-red Wingate sandstone cliffs.

Just across the highway from the petroglyphs there is a picnic area and campground, which is free and is first-come, first-serve. The area is open year-round, and the best times to visit are March through late-May and September through October.

No fees or permits are required to visit Newspaper Rock or to drive the Indian Creek Scenic Byway. There are fees to enter Canyonlands National Park.

Driving Indian Creek Scenic Byway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Worth Pondering…

Traveling is almost like talking with men of other centuries.

—René Descartes