Tag: Tennessee

High Country Slow Loop: RVing the Cherohala Skyway, Joyce Kilmer Forest & the Tail of the Dragon

The Cherohala Skyway, Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, and Tail of the Dragon create one unforgettable mountain loop. For RVers, the route offers sweeping Appalachian vistas, ancient forests, and one of America’s most challenging roads—all best experienced at a slower pace.

There is a distinct moment on a mountain ascent when the frantic energy of the lowlands finally drops away. It usually happens right as the air turns crisp, the engine finds its steady, rhythmic hum, and the horizon opens up to reveal a sea of blue-tinted ridges stretching into infinity.

In the fast-paced rush of modern tourism, it is easy to treat roads merely as conduits—as ribbons of asphalt to be conquered as quickly as possible, to reach a pin on a digital map. But when you shift your mindset from destination-hunting to the deliberate, immersive practice of slow travel, the highway itself becomes the destination.

Nowhere does this philosophy yield greater rewards than the rugged, high-elevation borderlands where eastern Tennessee meets western North Carolina.

By linking the sweeping, sky-bound ridges of the Cherohala Skyway with the ancient, cathedral-like stillness of the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, and concluding with the hyper-focused precision of the legendary Tail of the Dragon, you create a spectacular loop of deep contrasts.

For the RVer, this route isn’t a drive to be rushed; it is an invitation to downshift. It demands that you match your pace to the terrain, lingering in the turnouts to watch the clouds spill over the gaps, trading the GPS for the steady guidance of a recreational atlas, and allowing the immense scale of the southern highlands to reshape your sense of time.

The Cherohala Skyway climbs into the high country, opening sweeping views across the forested ridges of Tennessee and North Carolina. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Cherohala Skyway: A road built for slow travel

Fifty-one miles of open ridges and unhurried elevation

The loop begins on the western edge of the mountains in the quiet valley town of Tellico Plains, Tennessee. Here, at an elevation of just under 900 feet, you are standing at the threshold of one of the most remarkable engineering achievements in modern Appalachian history.

Unlike historic routes that evolved from wagon ruts or old logging railroad beds, the Cherohala Skyway was purpose-built for the view. As I explored in detail in my previous piece, The Cherohala Skyway—North Carolina’s $100 Million Mountain Road, this 51-mile high-country corridor connecting Tennessee to Robbinsville, North Carolina, was the result of a 34-year construction odyssey.

Sparked by a whimsical 1958 wagon train ride, the $100 million project was engineered not to move traffic quickly from point A to point B, but to immerse the traveler in the vast, uninterrupted wilderness of the Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests. Completed in the mid-1990s, it stands as a masterclass in ridge-top engineering, designed with wide shoulders, sweeping curves, and gentle, predictable grades that rarely exceed nine percent.

For the RVer, this deliberate design makes it the ultimate introduction to high-country slow travel.

Leaving the Tellico River valley behind, the Skyway (designated as State Route 165 on the Tennessee side) doesn’t shock the system with immediate, dizzying drop-offs. Instead, it coaxes you upward. The road twists gently through deep, dense corridors of oak and cove hardwoods, tracing the contour of the slopes.

The Cherohala Skyway winds through the high country, where forested ridges, open skies, and sweeping mountain views make the road part of the destination. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Skyway ascent by the numbers

  • The launch: Tellico Plains, Tennessee (~900 feet)
  • The climb: A gradual, sustained 25-mile ridgeline ascent
  • The crest: Haw Knob/North Carolina State Line (>5,300 feet)

The takeaway: You are gaining nearly 4,500 feet of vertical elevation without a single steep hairpin turn, a testament to the road’s $100 million engineering budget.

As the miles click away, the transition from forest floor to high Appalachian horizon happens incrementally. The dense canopy overhead begins to thin, replaced by scrub oak, mountain laurel, and increasingly crisp, cool air. By the time your rig climbs past the 4,000-foot mark, the trees part to reveal the first sequence of ridge-top overlooks.

Pulling a house on wheels into these massive gravel turnouts, you get your first true taste of the high country. Pulling the keys from the ignition, the mechanical purr of the engine is instantly swallowed by an immense, panoramic silence.

Below you, the ridges roll away like frozen green waves under a massive sky. Because there are zero gas stations, commercial storefronts, or cell towers along this mountain corridor, the isolation feels total and immediate. It is a space that practically commands you to set the parking brake, open the RV door, and step outside just to watch the mountain mist spill over the gaps at its own unhurried pace.

Ancient tulip poplars tower above the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, creating a cathedral-like canopy in one of the Southeast’s remaining old-growth forests. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest: Beyond the overlooks

Leaving the pavement to walk among 400-year-old giants

Dropping down the eastern slopes of the Skyway toward Robbinsville, the expansive vistas begin to close, replaced by the intimate embrace of the valley floor. Near Santeetlah Gap, a short, deliberate detour guides you away from the highway and into a landscape that operates on an entirely different version of time. Welcome to the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest.

As I detailed in my previous article, Beyond the Smokies: The Old-Growth Forest Few Travelers Find, this 3,800-acre sanctuary tucked within the Nantahala National Forest is one of the last remaining fragments of unlogged, virgin wilderness in the eastern United States. Spared from the aggressive logging booms of the early 20th century by a combination of remote geography and historic economic shifts, it stands today as an enduring portal to the past.

For the slow traveler, the transition here is profound. You are moving from a macro-view of the mountains to a micro-view of their very soul.

The primary way to experience this sanctuary is the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Loop Trail, a gentle two-mile figure-eight path divided into a lower and upper section. Leaving your rig, you step onto the trail and instantly enter a living, breathing cathedral. Here, magnificent tulip poplars, oaks, and ancient hardwoods—many boasting circumferences of more than 20 feet and ages spanning 300 to 400 years—rise more than 100 feet straight into the sky. Far above, their massive crowns interlock to form a dense canopy, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor only in soft, fractured shards of gold.

Walking beneath the towering trees of Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest is a journey into an ancient landscape where the forest floor is shaded by centuries-old hardwoods. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The contrast by the numbers

  • The Skyway (macro view): 43 miles of expansive, high-altitude ridgeline vistas looking out at the world.
  • Joyce Kilmer (micro depth): 2 miles of deep, ancient old-growth immersion looking up at centuries of history.
  • The takeaway: A masterclass in shifting perspectives—moving from the open freedom of the sky to the quiet grounding of the forest floor in less than a thirty-minute drive.

What sets Joyce Kilmer apart from the high-traffic, bustling corridors of nearby Great Smoky Mountains National Park is its distinct atmosphere of reverence. There are no paved multi-lane parking lots, no commercial gift shops, and no crowds rushing to the next photo-op.

The people who find their way down this access road tend to move differently—slower, quieter, and with a heightened sense of awareness. You hear it in the way footsteps soften on the rich loam, and the way conversations drop to a whisper beneath the trees.

Together, the Skyway and this old-growth basin form a flawless pairing for a slow travel itinerary: one reveals the immense scale of the southern highlands from far above, while the other reveals their profound depth from within.

The Cherohala Skyway climbs above the forest canopy, revealing layers of Appalachian ridges stretching across the Tennessee–North Carolina high country. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Tail of the Dragon: Slow synchronization

Three hundred and eighteen curves demanding total mechanical presence

If the Cherohala Skyway is an open invitation to daydream, the final leg of the loop demands absolute, unyielding presence. Leaving the old-growth shadows of Joyce Kilmer, the route routes you north toward Deals Gap on the Tennessee-North Carolina border. Here lies the Tail of the Dragon: an 11-mile stretch of US-129 packed with a relentless 318 curves.

Bordered by the Great Smoky Mountains and the Cherokee National Forest, the Dragon is globally revered by sportbikes and sports cars. There are no intersecting driveways, no stoplights, and no commercial storefronts—just a pure, uninterrupted test of asphalt geometry.

For the slow traveler in an RV, this road represents a fascinating paradox. In a vehicle built like a small house, “slaying the dragon” isn’t about speed or scraping footpegs; it is an exercise in slow, mechanical synchronization.

The reality check by the numbers

  • The route: 11 miles, 318 continuous bank turns.
  • The law (Tennessee side): Strictly illegal for any vehicle or trailer over 30 feet in total length.
  • The reality: Even if your rig is technically legal under 30 feet, navigating the Dragon requires keeping your front bumper, rear overhang, and tires completely within your lane.
  • The strategy: If you are piloting a large Class A, a long fifth-wheel, or lack mountain driving experience, do not drive your rig here. Use the surrounding public lands as a basecamp, unhook your tow or chase vehicle, and experience the Dragon’s twists with a lighter footprint.

If you do tackle it with a nimble, compact rig, the experience transitions from a casual sightseeing cruise into a beautiful dance of physics. You shift down into low gear, using engine braking to manage your momentum. The speed limit is a strictly enforced 30 mph but you will likely find yourself hugging the curves at 15 to 20 mph.

Every bend has a name earned through decades of local lore—Copperhead Corner, Gravity Cavity, Brake or Bust Bend. Your eyes track far ahead through the trees, scanning for the apex of the next turn while remaining acutely aware of the pull-offs.

A major element of slow travel etiquette here is humility: whenever a safe asphalt pull-off appears, ease over and let the lines of humming sports cars and agile motorcycles pass. They are seeking a rush of adrenaline; you are seeking a rhythmic, precise connection with the road.

By the time you cross the Tabcat Creek Bridge and the road finally straightens out, your hands will likely be tight on the wheel, and your heart will be beating a little faster. But as you look back at the ridge you just traversed, you realize you’ve completed something rare: a loop that tested your focus, grounded your spirit in an ancient forest, and lifted your perspective to the very edge of the sky.

High above the valleys, the Cherohala Skyway follows the mountain ridges through a landscape of forests, distant peaks, and ever-changing Appalachian skies. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Basecamps & logistics: Planning your slow loop

Where to unhook the rig and establish your mountain base

Because of the steep elevation shifts and tight geometry on this loop, picking the right basecamp is essential. Splitting your stay between the Tennessee and North Carolina sides allows you to unhook your tow vehicle or park a larger rig safely while you explore the most demanding stretches of tarmac.

Tellico Plains, Tennessee (western gateway)

Cherohala Mountain Trails Campground

A fantastic option situated right at the base of the mountains before the big climb begins. Reviewers frequently note its exceptionally quiet atmosphere, clean facilities, and its welcoming posture toward travelers seeking an unhurried mountain experience.

  • Features: Offers standard full-hookup RV sites alongside cozy cabin rentals.
  • Vibe: Deeply integrated into the forest landscape with immediate access to local hiking trails.
  • Slow travel tip: Use this location to provision your rig fully; it is your last reliable access to fuel and supplies before crossing the state line.

Tellico Plains/Cherokee National Forest KOA

Provides a highly accessible, reliable basecamp for rigs of almost any size. Reviewers praise the park’s immaculate upkeep and peaceful, riverside setting along the Tellico River.

  • Features: Large pull-through sites, full hookups, and excellent Wi-Fi for remote creators.
  • Vibe: A perfect blend of classic campground amenities and quiet natural beauty.

Robbinsville, North Carolina (eastern valley)

Hidden Waters RV Park, Campground & Outdoors

Sits tucked along a beautiful mountain stream just off US-129; perfectly positioned between the eastern edge of the Skyway and the approach to the Dragon. Reviewers praise the pristine creek views, level gravel sites, and the helpfulness of the on-site management.

  • Features: High-quality full hookup sites right on the water’s edge.
  • Vibe: Serene and intimate, making it easy to sit by the campfire and listen to the rushing stream.

Cheoah Point Campground, Cheoah Ranger District, Nantahala National Forest

The premier public land choice, perched right on a peninsula overlooking Santeetlah Lake. Visitors enjoy the deep shade of the mature forest canopy and the immediate proximity to water sports.

  • Features: Developed by the U.S. Forest Service, it features select electric hookup sites that can accommodate moderate-sized RVs, alongside bathhouses.
  • Vibe: Classic, deeply immersive public land camping with exceptional evening star-gazing.
Cherohala Skyway signage marks the route across the high country, where the road follows the ridgelines. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Conclusion: The rhythms of the High Country

Letting the mountain loop rewrite your relationship with time

When you finally park the rig at the end of this loop, you realize that the High Country Slow Loop has accomplished exactly what slow travel promises: it has rewritten your relationship with the terrain.

You didn’t just cross a mountain range; you synchronized with its geography. You climbed slowly enough to feel the air cool degree by degree, you stepped away from the steering wheel to stand beneath trees that have stood since before the founding of the nation, and you held a steady, deliberate line through some of the most demanding asphalt on the continent.

In an era where travel is too often measured by speed and checkboxes, taking your time through the Cherohala, Joyce Kilmer, and the Dragon reminds us of a fundamental truth. The best stories aren’t found when we hurry through the landscape, but when we let the landscape slow us down.

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Editor’s note

This article was originally published in August 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. Conditions, access, and amenities may change over time, so please verify current details before planning your trip.

To maintain transparency and editorial independence, this website contains no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just firsthand RV travel experiences and practical information for fellow travelers.

The Cherohala Skyway—North Carolina’s $100 Million Mountain Road

Stretching 51 miles between North Carolina and Tennessee, the Cherohala Skyway is one of America’s great mountain drives. Built over 36 years at a cost of more than $100 million, this high-elevation scenic road winds through the Cherokee and Nantahala National Forests with sweeping Appalachian vistas, flowing curves, and a pace that rewards slow travel and thoughtful exploration.

The Cherohala Skyway is one of those roads that sounds almost exaggerated—until you understand what it took to bring it into existence. Stretching 51 miles between Robbinsville, North Carolina, and Tellico Plains, Tennessee, it is often cited as the most expensive road ever built in North Carolina. By the time the final pavement was laid in 1996, the project had taken more than three decades of planning and construction and cost well over $100 million.

That price tag isn’t just trivia. It reflects the sheer difficulty of carving a modern scenic highway across the crest of the Unicoi Mountains where rugged terrain, remote access, and environmental sensitivity turned every mile into an engineering challenge. Construction began in 1960, and it would take 36 years before the final connection was completed—making it one of the longest-running highway projects in the region.

The result is not simply a road that crosses the mountains but one that threads through them with remarkable precision. Massive cuts were carved into steep Appalachian ridgelines, and engineers had to solve problems that came with building at sustained high elevations far from existing infrastructure. And when you drive it today, it becomes clear where that investment went—every curve and contour feels shaped by both the landscape and the effort required to move through it.

The name itself is a blend of the two national forests it traverses—Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee and Nantahala National Forest in North Carolina. “Chero-hala.” It’s a simple fusion but it neatly captures what the road connects: two vast stretches of protected mountain wilderness.

Together, these forests form a continuous corridor of rugged Appalachian landscape and the Skyway climbs through its highest ridges reaching elevations of over 5,300 feet. From that height, the road opens into long, uninterrupted views—rolling layers of blue-green mountains that seem to fold endlessly into the horizon offering some of the most expansive scenery in the Southeast.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A road built for flow, not force

Where rhythm matters more than speed

For drivers, the Cherohala Skyway feels less like a standard state highway and more like a purpose-built scenic drive. Unlike older mountain roads that evolved from wagon routes or followed river valleys, it was engineered from the outset with flow in mind, shaping the route to complement the natural contours of the ridgeline rather than fight against them.

The result is a road defined by broad, sweeping curves, steady but dramatic elevation changes, and long, open sight lines that stretch deep into the surrounding mountains. The pavement feels almost sculpted into the terrain, creating a continuous sense of momentum and rhythm through the high country.

That’s what separates it from nearby roads like the Tail of the Dragon where U.S. Route 129 packs 318 curves into just 11 miles and demands constant focus through tight, technical turns.

The Cherohala Skyway, by contrast, feels like it’s operating on an entirely different rhythm. Instead of sharp repetition and constant correction, the road opens into long, flowing arcs and gradual elevation shifts that unfold across the ridgelines. It’s a drive that encourages you to settle in, ease off the edge, and let pacing—not precision under pressure—define the experience.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Tennessee ascent

Climbing steadily into Appalachian high country

The Tennessee side begins gently outside Tellico Plains easing travelers into the mountains through dense hardwood forest and winding river valleys before the steady climb begins. As elevation builds, temperatures often drop noticeably, especially in spring and fall, signaling the transition into higher country.

As the ascent continues, the scenery opens. One overlook gives way to another, revealing layered Appalachian ridgelines stretching deep into the horizon. On cool mornings, fog often settles below the roadway, making the Skyway feel suspended above a sea of clouds.

Throughout the climb, the road surface remains exceptionally well maintained, and the long, flowing sweepers encourage steady, composed driving rather than frequent braking or abrupt transitions. Traffic is typically lighter and more relaxed than on the region’s better-known scenic routes which enhances the sense of space and uninterrupted motion through the mountains.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Best time to travel

When weather and light shape the drive

Late spring through fall offers the most rewarding conditions. May and June bring cool air and green canopy with lighter traffic while October transforms the Skyway into one of the Southeast’s most striking fall-color drives.

Summer is comfortable at elevation though afternoon thunderstorms are common. Winter brings the possibility of snow, ice, and temporary closures along the highest sections of the route.

Weekdays provide the most relaxed experience, especially during foliage season. Early mornings offer the clearest air but may include dense fog and cooler ridge temperatures. Layered clothing is essential year-round due to rapid elevation changes.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Descending into Robbinsville

Where open ridges give way to forest roads

Descending toward Robbinsville, the road tightens slightly as the North Carolina mountains close in around the route. The open ridge gradually gives way to denser forest and more enclosed terrain. By the time the Skyway reaches its eastern end, it reconnects with the broader Appalachian road network—Moonshiner 28, the Tail of the Dragon, and a web of forest roads threading through the Smokies.

Just off the Skyway lies the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, a quiet contrast to the engineered sweep of the highway. Preserved as one of the finest remaining stands of old-growth hardwood forest in the eastern United States, it offers a shaded world of massive tulip poplars, hemlocks, and oaks that rise straight and towering from the forest floor. Walking its loop trails feels almost timeless—an immersive reminder of what much of the Southern Appalachians once looked like before logging and development and a natural pause point that deepens the sense of place surrounding the Skyway itself.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Selected activities along the route

Stops that deepen the mountain experience

The Skyway corridor is defined as much by its surrounding landscapes as the drive itself. A series of overlooks along the ridge provide frequent opportunities to step out and take in expansive views of the Appalachian Mountains.

Nearby, Bald River Falls drops nearly 100 feet in a dramatic forest setting just off the western approach. Hiking options include Huckleberry Knob Trail offering 360-degree summit views and Hooper Bald, known for open vistas and seasonal wildflowers, including flame azaleas in early June.

On the North Carolina side, the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest offers a quiet counterpoint to the engineered precision of the Skyway. Its old-growth hardwood forest features massive tulip poplars and hemlocks, creating a shaded, timeless landscape that reflects what much of the region once looked like.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Tips for the best travel experience

Preparation makes the journey smoother

The Skyway can feel remote, particularly at night or during winter conditions when snow and ice make travel hazardous. Weather changes quickly at elevation, so checking conditions before departure is essential.

There are no services along the 51-mile route aside from limited seasonal restrooms making fuel, food, and water preparation critical before entering from either direction.

Even in summer, ridge temperatures can be significantly cooler than surrounding valleys. Layered clothing is strongly recommended year-round.

Above all, the Skyway rewards patience. It is not a road to rush but one to experience at the pace the mountains allow.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Closing reflection

More than a road through the mountains

But even among those legendary names, the Cherohala Skyway stands apart because of its scale. Few roads in the Southeast feel this elevated, this expansive, or this intentionally shaped around the driving experience itself. The investment—over $100 million in construction—speaks to the difficulty of building across such demanding terrain but what drivers receive in return is something less easily measured: uninterrupted mountain vistas, flowing pavement, and one of the most complete high-country drives in America.

In the end, it’s the kind of road that justifies its own reputation in real time. And yes—what you really get is something close to $100 million views, unfolding mile after mile above the Appalachian ridgelines.

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in June 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.

The Complete Guide to Chattanooga, Tennessee

Chattanooga continues to grow as a popular destination attracting visitors with its natural beauty, cultural attractions, and vibrant community

Chattanooga is the seat of Hamilton County and the fourth-largest city in Tennessee. Lying along the beautiful Tennessee River and nestled among the Blue Ridge Mountains to the southeast of the state, the city has earned its nickname “Scenic City” from the dramatic views surrounding it. Forget about its more famous siblings, Nashville and Memphis. Chattanooga is a city on the rise thanks to its gorgeous scenery and bustling tech landscape which attracts all generations.

Considered among the top places to visit in America, Chattanooga is the ultimate getaway for visitors offering numerous free activities to vacationing families, romantic travelers, and solo adventurers. The city boasts a revitalized riverfront scattered with attractions where visitors can chill and enjoy the breathtaking views, a rich history highlighted by Civil War monuments, and thrilling adventures that make up some of the best things to do in Tennessee.

There are endless things to do in Chattanooga. Before packing the RV for a road trip to this magical destination, get acquainted with this complete guide to the “Scenic City”.

Lookout Mountain, Chattanooga © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

1. Look in awe at Ruby Falls

Descend 260 feet by glass-front elevator to begin a guided walk along the paved half-mile cavern trail for a close-up view of thundering Ruby Falls

One of the more unique things to see while in Chattanooga is Ruby Falls. Here, visitors can explore what was accidentally discovered by Leo Lambert in 1928 deep within Lookout Mountain. Leo named the waterfall and cave after his wife, Ruby, and opened the iconic Chattanooga attraction to the public in 1929. The waterfall is breathtaking providing a secret ecosystem within the mountain range.

The 145-foot waterfall is accompanied by guided tours and a gift shop, both of which are worth experiencing. This attraction, although a learning opportunity, is a fun idea for families and anyone who loves rock formations and underground experiences.

Tip: Always a steady 60° F in Ruby Falls cave

A variety of tours are available:

  • Cave Walk to the Waterfall: $28.95; seniors (65+), $27.97; child (ages 4-12), $18.95
  • History Tour: $39.95 (appropriate for guests age 12 and older)
  • Gentle Walking Tour: $39.95 (children younger than 12 years old are not permitted on Gentle Walking Tours)
  • Lantern Tour: $41.95 (Friday nights, after hours)
  • High Point ZIP Adventure: $21.95 (seasonal, March-November)
  • Annual Pass: $52.95; child (ages 4-12), $32.95

Note: Tickets sold online only; walk-up tickets are not available

  • Address: 1720 S. Scenic Hwy. Chattanooga, TN 37409
  • Contact: (423) 821-2544

 2. Explore Rock City Gardens

From gardens to gnomes, Rock City is filled with must-see spots that will delight visitors of all ages

Another way to spend the day in Chattanooga is to head over to Rock City Gardens. Here, visitors can enjoy the enchanted, 4,100-foot walking trail showcasing soaring rock formations, caves, and lush woodland vegetation. There are also 60 to 90-minute self-guided walking tours people can take through the 14-acre gardens.

Only six miles from downtown Chattanooga, Rock City is 1,700 feet above sea level with a 100-foot waterfall that cascades down the mountain and the famous Swing-A-Long Bridge that spans nearly 200 feet. This self-guided tour gives visitors a birds-eye view from high atop Lookout Mountain.

Another feature of Rock City is Lover’s Leap, an extraordinary rock formation featuring rocks jutting out from the side of Lookout Mountain. A climbing wall is also located at Lover’s Leap.

Each season there’s a new reason to visit with several special events enhancing the beauty and creating an atmosphere you can visit repeatedly.

A variety of tickets and passes are available including:

  • March-May: $31-37; children (ages 3-12), $21-27
  • Guided tours: $46-49
  • Silver/Gold family annual pass: $79-219
  • Address: 1400 Patten Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750
  • Contact: (706) 820-2531; (800) 854-0675
  • Hours of operation: 10:00 am-9:30 pm, daily (last entry is 8:45 pm)
Chattanooga Choo Choo Hotel © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

3. Raccoon Mountain Caverns and Campground

One of the most geologically active cave systems in the South

The next stop in Chattanooga is the Raccoon Mountain Caverns and Campground. This dreamy site features Tennessee’s #1 Thing to Do according to TripAdvisor and is something for the entire family. Guests can enjoy a cave as well as guided tours and camping opportunities inside the park.

Raccoon Mountain Caverns boasts over 5.5 miles of mapped cave passages making it one of the largest and most geologically active cave systems in the region. The Crystal Palace Tour offers a well-developed, accessible underground walk featuring stunning limestone formations, waterfalls, and fossils.

For the adventurous, the Wild Cave Expedition Tour ventures into undeveloped, more challenging areas providing a thrilling spelunking experience. This dual offering caters both to families and serious caving enthusiasts setting it apart from many other cave attractions that only offer standard guided tours.

  • Address: 319 West Hills Dr., Chattanooga, TN 37419
  • Contact: (423) 821-9403

4. Head to the Chattanooga Market

The region’s largest producer-only arts and crafts and farmers’ market

Named one of the “Top 10 Public Markets in America” by Frommers, Chattanooga Market features over 50 farms bringing a variety of produce, meats, and cheeses to the market each week and over 130 artisans offering their unique crafts, arts, farm-fresh goods, and so many other locally made specialties. Live music is a staple at Chattanooga Market with local and regional musicians on the EPB stage for two FREE shows weekly plus food vendors galore for the hungry shoppers.

  • Address: 1826 Reggie White Blvd., Chattanooga, TN 37408
  • Contact: (423) 648-2496
  • Hours: Sundays, April to November, 11am-4 pm at the First Tennessee Pavilion, 1829 Carter Street, Chattanooga
Chattanooga Choo Choo © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

5. See the famed Chattanooga Choo Choo

A 30-acre resort complex including the Chattanooga Choo Choo Hotel

Another quirky location in Chattanooga is the Chattanooga Choo Choo. Built-in 1908, this historic downtown inn was once the terminal station for the Southern Railway line becoming a favorite among visitors and locals to the area.

The Chattanooga Choo Choo is still in operation but as a hotel offering nightly rates of $150-ish throughout the year.

  • Address: 1400 Market Street, Chattanooga, TN 37402
  • Contact: (423) 266-5000

6. Visit Tennessee Aquarium

Highlights the diversity of aquatic life from mountain streams to the ocean depths

Marine life enthusiast or not, the Tennessee Aquarium is definitely worth a visit by all visitors to Chattanooga. The underwater haven harbors one of the richest collections of freshwater fauna in the region with over 320 fish species calling it home.

The facility is divided into two buildings and features exhibits of amazing marine life including larger-than-life and strange-looking Wallago Catfish, playful otters, and jellyfish.

The exhibits are realistic displaying some of the rarest and most endangered species in their element.

Kids will have a fun time marveling at the rich underwater beings as adults learn a thing or two about marine life preservation.

  • Address: One Broad Street, Chattanooga, TN. 37402
  • Contact: (800) 262-0695
  • Admission: $34.95, Children (ages 3-12), $21.95
  • Hours of operation: Monday, 9 am-5 pm; Tuesday to Friday, 10 am-5 pm; Saturday, 9 am-6 pm; Sunday, 10 am-5 pm
Chattanooga and the Tennessee River © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

7. Stroll the Tennessee Riverpark

Immerse yourself in stunning river views, wildlife, and vibrant city culture along a scenic trail 

Visitors and locals converge at the Tennessee Riverpark during hot summers to cool off and enjoy the cool breeze from the mighty Tennessee River. This popular riverfront trail stretches 13 miles from Downtown to the Chickamauga Dam, 8 miles to the east and to the Historic St. Elmo neighborhood 4 miles to the south. Open to cyclists, runners, skaters, and walkers the Riverwalk connects neighborhoods and business districts.

Surrounded by 150 acres of landscaped grounds, Riverpark offers dramatic river views and unique photo opportunities. Visitors can also indulge in various fun water activities in the area including canoeing, angling, and boating. The trail is also lined with intimate art pieces with a chance to glimpse various water birds local to Chattanooga.

Contact: (423) 643-6311

8. Explore Coolidge Park

The centerpiece is the beautifully restored 1894 Dentzel carousel 

Located on the city’s North Shore, Coolidge Park is one place where you can overlook the beautiful Tennessee River, play in an interactive water fountain, stroll across on one of the world’s largest pedestrian bridges (Walnut Street Bridge), test your skills at rock climbing, picnic with your family in plenty of open green spaces, admire a military memorial, and even ride a tiger on the 100-year old restored antique carousel.

Coolidge Park is adjacent to local entertainment, art galleries, shops, and restaurants and serves as a venue for numerous concerts, festivals, and special events. It is also part of the Tennessee Riverwalk (see above).

In 2006 The Peace Grove was added to Coolidge Park. It is a circular landscape of trees planted to represent each of Chattanooga’s Sister Cities and celebrate the city’s global friendships around the world.

  • Carousel hours: Monday to Thursday, 11 am-7 pm; Friday, 11 am-8 pm; Saturday, 10 am-8 pm; Sunday, 12 pm-7 pm
  • Address: 50 River Street, Chattanooga, TN 37405
  • Contact: (423) 643-6311
  • Hours of operation: 6 am-9 pm daily
Lookout Mountain Chattanooga © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

9. Admire the natural wonders of Lookout Mountain

Experience a captivating mix of geological marvels, breathtaking views, and rich history

Lookout Mountain rises 2,000 feet above sea level and overlooks Chattanooga. The views are as amazing as the long-standing attractions that call Lookout Mountain home: Rock City (see above), Ruby Falls (see above), the Incline Railway (see below), and Chickamauga & Chattanooga National Military Park (see below).

This iconic mountain ridge in south Tennessee is an interesting getaway with plenty of attractions. The area provides dramatic views of the surrounding mountains which embodies the aura of a “Scenic City.”

Visitors can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes at Lookout Mountain Tower and snap Instagram-worthy pics.

  • Admission: Free
  • Hours: 8:30 am-5 pm daily

Tip: Visit early in the morning when the site has just opened to avoid the crowds and have a more comfortable experience.

10. Head to the Chattanooga Zoo

“The Best Little Zoo in America” 

With over 500 animals exhibited, representing over 200 different species, many of which are endangered, the Chattanooga Zoo is committed to preserve wildlife by creating meaningful connections between people and animals. Get face to face with a chimpanzee or jaguar, ride a camel, or check out some rare and venomous reptiles.
Many visitors are drawn to the Himalayan Passage, a popular section boasting the largest red panda exhibit in the world. They also get to marvel at chimpanzees at the Game Forest and snow leopards at the Hanuman Langurs display.

Only two miles from downtown, the Chattanooga Zoo is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. with the exception of Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. 

  • Address: 301 N. Holtzclaw Ave., Chattanooga, TN 37404
  • Contact: (423) 697-1322
  • Admission: $13.96-15.95; seniors (ages 65+), $11.95-$13.95; children (ages 3-12), $10.95-$12.95

11. Enjoy art at Hunter Museum of American Art

The museum’s collection spans from the Colonial period to contemporary art including paintings, drawings, sculptures, prints, and photography

Built on a ninety-foot limestone bluff overlooking the Tennessee River and comprised of a 1905 classical revival mansion, a low-slung 1970s building and a 2005 contemporary structure, the Hunter Museum of American Art showcases 100 years of architecture and houses the finest collection of American art in the Southeast.

The collection of the Hunter Museum spans the history of American art from the colonial period to the present day, and covers a wide variety of media including painting, sculpture, contemporary studio glass, and crafts.

  • Address: 10 Bluff View, Chattanooga, TN 37403
  • Contact: (423) 267-0968
  • Admission: $20; seniors, $18

12. Enjoy nature at Cloudland Canyon State Park

Stunning scenery and diverse outdoor activities

Located on the western edge of Lookout Mountain, Cloudland Canyon is one of the largest and most scenic parks in the state. Home to thousand-foot deep canyons, sandstone cliffs, wild caves, waterfalls, cascading creeks, dense woodland and abundant wildlife, the park offers ample outdoor recreation.

Hiking and mountain biking trails abound. The most popular hiking paths include the short Overlook Trail, strenuous Waterfalls Trail, and moderate West Rim Loop Trail. Mountain biking is available at the newly developed Five Points Recreation Area and along the Cloudland Connector Trail.

The park also offers disc golf, a fishing pond, trails for horseback riding, picnicking and overlooks. Guests seeking an overnight experience can choose from fully-equipped and comfortable cottages, quirky yurts or several different types of camping and backpacking options. 

  • Address: 122 Cloudland Canyon Park Road, Rising Fawn, GA 30738
  • Contact: (706) 657-4050
  • Entrance fee: $5/vehicle; annual passes available
Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

13. Tour Chickamauga & Chattanooga National Military Park

The battlefields of two major Civil War engagements fought in 1863

The oldest and largest of America’s Civil War military parks, Chickamauga and Chattanooga encompasses land in northern Georgia and southern Tennessee. The park is headquartered at Chickamauga, Georgia, about 9 miles south of downtown Chattanooga. 

With nearly 10,000 acres of preserved landscape around the Chattanooga area, Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park offers a wide variety of things to do.

You can take a tour of the park either on your own or with a park ranger. You could go on a hike or engage in a variety of outdoor activities in the park. There are two park visitor centers where you can explore the park’s story in indoor exhibits.

  • Address: 3370 LaFayette Road, Fort Oglethorpe, GA 30742
  • Contact: (706) 866-9241
  • Entrance fee: $10/person
Incline Railway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

14. Incline Railway

“America’s Most Amazing Mile”

On December 7, 2024, a series of extraordinary natural events on Lookout Mountain led to a devastating wildfire that severely impacted the historic Lookout Mountain Incline Railway, one of Chattanooga’s most cherished landmarks. The incident underscored the vulnerability of natural and man-made structures to unexpected geological phenomena leaving a lasting mark on the local community and its heritage.

The targeted reopening date is summer 2025, contingent on all reconstruction efforts proceeding without any delays or complications.

  • Location: 3917 St. Elmo Avenue, Chattanooga, TN 37409
  • Contact: (423) 821-4224

15. Best time to visit Chattanooga

The best time to visit Chattanooga is during the fall, from September to November

Chattanooga has four seasons, each bringing a distinct charm and making it a suitable destination year-round. But for the most idyllic scenery, fewer crowds, mild weather, and local festivities, visit during the colorful spring and fall.

The best time to visit Chattanooga is during the fall from September to November when the summer crowds clear, cooler temperatures make it easier to enjoy the great outdoors and the changing fall foliage creates a stunning, natural backdrop. During this period, you can enjoy events like the RiverRocks Chattanooga (October 5-14, 2025), Wine Over Water (October 25, 2025), and Head of Hooch (November 1-2, 2025).

Spring is also a delightful time to visit with mild temperatures and fewer crowds, perfect for hiking, biking, and enjoying the blooming flowers.

Summer is ideal for outdoor adventures with long days and plenty of sunshine for activities like kayaking, paddleboarding, and hiking. 

The worst season for visiting Chattanooga is winter when the weather is characterized by chilly temperatures falling below freezing, rain, and snow. On the bright side, winter brings a cozy charm and festive spirit with annual events like the Holiday Trail of Lights, Tennessee Valley Railroad’s North Pole Limited, and ice skating at the Chattanooga Choo Choo Gardens.

Guests can stop by the Chattanooga Whiskey Co. for some locally-distilled whiskey to stave off the cold.

16. Related Chattanooga stories

17. Best ways to get around Chattanooga

Visitors have several means of exploring this awesome city

Shuttle

In keeping up with River City’s environmental pedigree, the free electric shuttle service is the best way to move around the city. This conveniently passes through major attractions and points of interest in the city including the Tennessee Aquarium and the Chattanooga Choo Choo.

The shuttle service comprises two routes: Northshore and Downtown.

  • Northshore schedule: Monday to Friday, 7 am-7 pm; Saturday, 10 am-6 pm; runs every 15 minutes
  • Downtown schedule: Monday to Friday, 6:30 am-11 pm; Saturday and Sunday (abbreviated hours); runs every 5 minutes

Public transportation

The Chattanooga Area Regional Transportation Authority (CARTA) offers an expanding bus network plying 19 routes from the north of the city to the Tennessee-Georgia border.

  • Tickets: $1.50; children (5 and under) free; 24-hour pass, $6
  • Schedule: Monday to Saturday (6 am – 8 pm)

Car

While Chattanooga is one of those cities where cars aren’t necessary for visitor, it never hurts to have a set of wheels to move around especially when planning to visit the more distant attractions.

Visitor will also find multiple parking lots spread across the city and more parking garages in the downtown district.

Bike

Travelers who’d want to explore the city on two wheels can take advantage of Chattanooga’s bike-share program which comprises 41 stations serving locals and tourists throughout the urban core.

Depending on the need, bikes are available for hire for different durations, and passes can be purchased with a credit card.

Sugar Ribs, Chattanooga © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

18. Where to eat in Chattanooga

Chattanooga’s culinary scene has something to satisfy every palate

Nooga has a lively dining scene full of comfort dishes and diverse flavors. Many restaurants source their produce and ingredients locally from nearby farms ensuring guests enjoy fresh and healthy meals.

For breakfast:

Milk & Honey

Those with a sweet tooth can stop by this quaint coffee shop famous for its sensational breakfast offerings like burritos and biscuits. Sourcing its ingredients straight from local farms, Milk & Honey has sweet flavors that will give guests the perfect start to the day’s schedule.

Customers choose from a selection of teas and juices to pair with savory snacks like their beloved buttermilk biscuits or sumptuous croissants prepared freshly at the in-house bakery. Don’t forget the handmade pop tarts, gelato, and salted caramels.

  • Address: 135 N Market St, Chattanooga, TN 37405-3904
  • Hours: Monday to Sunday, 7 am-4 pm

For lunch and dinner:

Food Works

This trendy restaurant in Signal Mill is one of the go-to places for brunch in the city. Nestled inside the old mill, the eatery features high ceilings and exposed walls creating a welcoming and upbeat atmosphere.

The food doesn’t disappoint and includes sumptuous servings of breakfast classics like Southern-style biscuits. For lunch, guests can revel in the tantalizing tastes of smoked brisket hash, Southern chicken and waffles, and ricotta pancakes.

  • Address: 205C Manufacturers Rd, Chattanooga, TN 37405
  • Hours: Monday to Saturday, 11 am-9 pm; Sunday, 10 am-5 pm

Scottie’s On The River

When searching for a cozy romantic joint for a date night, look no further than Scottie’s On The River. The restaurant has a unique menu filled with delectable dishes like seafood gumbo, stuffed mushrooms, and pan-seared sea scallops.

While guests wait for their orders to be ready, they can enjoy the amazing sunset views or get acquainted with the friendly restaurant staff.

  • Address: 491 Riverfront Pkwy, Chattanooga, TN 37402
  • Hours: Monday to Sunda, 11 am-11 pm

For drinks:

Easy Bistro & Bar

This laid-back joint offers the best of both worlds with sumptuous seafood selections and more than 300 whiskeys to choose from. With its lively vibe and welcoming staff, Easy Bistro & Bar is the right place to close out a tedious day marked with unending adventures.

They also serve refreshing craft cocktails and different wine varieties to cater to all drinking preferences.

  • Address: 203 Broad St, Chattanooga, TN 37402
  • Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 4 pm-9 pm; Friday & Saturday, 4 pm-10 pm
Holiday Travel Park of Chattanooga © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

19. Where to camp In Chattanooga

Variety of options ranging from lakefront parks and state parks to RV resorts and campgrounds

Chattanooga offers a variety of RV camping options for different preferences. Here are some top camping spots all within a reasonable distance of the city, catering to various camping styles.

Holiday Travel Park Chattanooga

This campground is a longtime favorite for RV travelers looking for a convenient location close to downtown Chattanooga and the Chickamauga Battlefield. We used this park as our home base when visiting Chattanooga.

  • Location: 1709 S Mack Smith Rd, Chattanooga, TN 37412 (technically in Rossville, GA, just across the state line, ~1/2 mile off I-75 at Exit 1)
  • Highlights: A highly rated RV campground recognized by Good Sam as a Top Family Campground and named “Campground of the Year” by Tennessee ARVC. Located on a Civil War battlefield site, it’s ideal for RVers seeking proximity to Chattanooga’s attractions. Offers 170 full or partial hookup sites accommodating big rigs up to 70 feet with many pull-through options. Family-friendly with a historical setting and easy interstate access.
  • Amenities: Full hookups (30/50 amp, water, sewer, cable TV), Free Wi-Fi, clean restrooms/showers, seasonal saltwater pool, dog park, laundry, camp store.

Raccoon Mountain Caverns & Campground

For an adventurous and unique camping experience, Raccoon Mountain offers both tent and RV camping with the added thrill of exploring Tennessee’s highest-rated cave system. 

  • Location: 319 W Hills Dr, Chattanooga, TN 37419 (10 minutes from Chattanooga)
  • Highlights: A premier spot for RV camping known for its proximity to downtown and access to Raccoon Mountain’s caverns offering tours from a 30-minute walk to a 4-hour muddy expedition. Features 40 miles of Chickamauga Lake shoreline with activities like fishing, paddling, and golfing at Bear Trace Golf Course.
  • Amenities: Full hookups for RVs, playground, hiking trails, bathhouse, laundry, fitness facilities, a dog park, and a seasonal saltwater pool.

Cloudland Canyon State Park

Cloudland Canyon is perfect for hikers and nature lovers who want to explore deep canyons, waterfalls, and rugged trails. 

  • Location: 122 Cloudland Canyon Park Road, Rising Fawn, GA 30738 (40 minutes from Chattanooga)
  • Highlights: Stunning views of Sitton Gulch Creek and dramatic cliffs, ideal for hikers.Offers 75 RV camping sites with electricity and water.Suitable for families and adventurers with modern amenities like bathrooms and showers at the West Rim campground.

Lookout Mountain/Chattanooga West KOA Holiday

Lookout Mountain Chattanooga West KOA Holiday is nestled in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, with historic Lookout Mountain to the east and downtown Chattanooga only 15 minutes away.

  • Location: 930 Mountain Shadows Drive, Trenton, GA 30752
  • Highlights: 37 acres of Appalachian forest, short drive from Chattanooga. Offers shaded RV, tent, and deluxe cabin sites with mountain views. Close to attractions like Ruby Falls and Rock City.
  • Amenities: 50-amp electric, 70- foot sites for big rigs, WiFi, cable TV, pool, and pet-friendly areas.
Lookout Mountain, Chattanooga © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

20. Tips for visiting Chattanooga

Key tips for visiting Chattanooga to help you make the most of your trip

With a population of just under 200,000, Chattanooga is on pace to sideline Knoxville as the third-most-populous city in the state.

To locals, the city holds a fair share of nicknames. Besides Scenic City, it’s also referred to as “River City” from the Tennessee River passing through it, “Gig City” because of the fastest internet speed in the country and the most obvious, “Nooga.”

Once considered the dirtiest city in America, Scenic City has come a long way from its air pollution days thanks to ambitious urban revitalization efforts in the past few decades. Today, it is a sustainable city with people-centered priorities attracting from around the country with its small-town charm.

Chattanooga is a historical hub renowned for its critical role in the American Civil War. It acted as a major railway focal point; this part of its history can be seen in the Civil War monuments and battlefield parks spread around the city.

It is also a city of firsts and lays claim to the invention of the first tow trucks in the 1910s. The world-famous MoonPie traces its origin to the Chattanooga Bakery in 1917 whereas the first Coca-Cola bottling company was opened here in the late 1800s. Chattanooga was also the first American city to offer gig internet speeds to its residents giving Silicon Valley a run for its money.

The area experiences a humid subtropical climate with four seasons defined by mild winters and hot, humid summers. Overall, it is a city bustling with diverse attractions ranging from scenic landscapes, historic landmarks, exciting outdoor adventures, top culinary experiences, and a rejuvenated Riverwalk serving as the ultimate chill spot by the water.

Tip: Visitors can stop by the visitor center before going into the city to get pointers on perfecting their holiday itinerary.

Chattanooga has undeniably succeeded in turning its once-polluted environment into one of the most charming river towns in Tennessee. Its access to nature blends seamlessly with its historical and cultural attractions, as well as its admirable technological advancements. It’s a unique urban paradise travelers must visit, even just for a weekend.

Worth Pondering…

Chattanooga Choo Choo

Hi there Tex, what you say
Step aside partner, it’s my day
Bend an ear and listen to my version
Of a really solid Tennessee excursion

Pardon me, boy
Is that the Chattanooga choo choo? (yes yes)
Track twenty-nine
Boy, you can gimme a shine
Can you afford To board a Chattanooga choo choo
I’ve got my fare And just a trifle to spare

You leave the Pennsylvania Station ’bout a quarter to four
Read a magazine and then you’re in Baltimore
Dinner in the diner
Nothing could be finer
Then to have your ham an’ eggs in Carolina

When you hear the whistle blowin’ eight to the bar
Then you know that Tennessee is not very far
Shovel all the coal in
Gotta keep it rollin’
Woo, woo, Chattanooga there you are

—Songwriters Mack Gordon and Harry Warren, first recorded in 1941 by Glenn Miller

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: A First Timer’s Guide

Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a vast and diverse national park spanning 500,000 acres in the Southern Appalachian range, straddling the border between Tennessee and North Carolina

Ragged mountain peaks, verdant forests, and cascading waterfalls set the stage for big adventure in the Great Smoky Mountains, one of America’s best-loved national parks. Spread across 500,000 acres in the Southern Appalachian range, the park is a four-season wonderland famous for both its colorful spring wildflowers and the fiery blazes of autumn.

The Smokies are also home to an astonishing variety of plant and animal life from lumbering black bears to dazzling displays of synchronous fireflies. It doesn’t take long to see why Great Smoky Mountains is the most visited national park in the United States. Whether you’re coming for the hikes, the history, the autumn leaf peeping, the sound of silence, or the winding mountain roads, there’s a little something for everyone in the Smokies.

Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The history of Great Smoky Mountains National Park

There are only three National Parks that spill across state lines and Great Smoky Mountains is one of them. It covers a section of Tennessee and North Carolina in the Southern U.S. that was once home to the Cherokee and later by Scotch-Irish settlers.

Like much of Appalachia, the Smokies were targeted by logging companies seeking rich stands of timber. As early as the end of the 19th century, concerned residents of the area advocated for preservation of the land. By 1925, the federal government was ready to move forward and create one of the first national parks in the eastern United States along with Shenandoah National Park to the north.

The land for Great Smoky Mountains National Park was acquired in large part through small-scale grassroots fundraising rather than donations from wealthy stakeholders despite much of the area already being broken up into small family farms and parcels earmarked by loggers. Much of the work was completed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) throughout the Great Depression and the national park was officially dedicated in 1940. 

Another unique quality of the Smoky’s development was that it was one of the first parks designed with cars in mind. Unlike the first national parks in the West which were originally reached by trains and where visitors stayed in grand hotels financed by railroad companies, Great Smoky National Park came together with support and input from auto organizations like the American Automobile Associations (AAA). 

Sugarlands Visitor Center © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Is it easy to get to and around Arches National Park?

Yes, but you will need a car. The main gateways to Great Smoky Mountains are the Sugarlands Visitor Center near Gatlinburg, Tennessee and the Oconaluftee Visitor Center near Cherokee, North Carolina. Between the two is the scenic Newfound Gap Road which winds for 29 miles neatly bisecting the park on the only pavement traversing the Smokies. Trailheads for some of the most popular hikes and some of the park’s key historic sights are found along this two-lane road. Other popular access points are the Cataloochee Valley on the east side of the park and Cades Cove in the west.

Wherever you’re coming from you’ll want a car as there’s no scheduled bus service to the park or any public transit available inside of it once you get there. 

If you want to spend some time exploring the Smokies without camping or renting a cabin, there are numerous RV rental companies in Knoxville, Gatlinburg, and Pigeon Forge – the later being two towns that are unofficial gateways to the Smokies and home to attractions like Dollywood.

Family hiking to Clingmans Dome © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Top things to see and do 

One of the great draws of the Smokies is its extensive trail system crisscrossing forested valleys and misty mountain slopes. There are over 800 miles of trails ranging from easy rambles along scenic boulder-filled streams to challenging all-day hikes. In addition, there are over 100 backcountry campsites and shelters with the park offers exceptional possibilities for multi-day treks.

The park’s hiking opportunities include a 71 mile portion of the Appalachian Trail which runs right through the center of the park between Fontana Dam and Davenport Gap. The highest point on the entire 2,200 mile span of the Appalachian Trail is the park’s own Clingman’s Dome—the top of Old Smoky made famous by singers like the Weavers and Hank Williams. Another epic trek in the park is the Mountains to the Sea Trail which runs from its western terminus at Clingman’s Dome all the way to the Outer Banks of North Carolina.

Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Hiking aside, there are many ways to experience the Great Smoky Mountains. When you need a break from walking you can let a trusty steed do the work. Horseback riding stables are located in Cades Cove, Sugarlands, and Smokemont. The park also has some matchless scenic drives including ridgeline roads where you can gaze out at the seemingly endless expanse of undulating peaks. Last but not least, the Blue Ridge Parkway’s southern terminus links the Smokies to Shenandoah, in case you want to get the most out of your national parks pass.

However you choose to explore the Smokies, you can visit the well-preserved log cabins, grist mills, and one-room school houses built by early settlers to the area. There is also exceptional wildlife watching year round in the Smokies. 

While you have a chance of seeing wildlife throughout the park, the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail is an excellent route if you’re hoping to peep the park’s animal residents especially in winter time at dawn and in the evenings. And while the area’s bears and fireflies get most of the publicity, the Cataloochee Valley is a prime spot to see elk reintroduced to the Smokies back in 2001. 

Cades Cove © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

How much money do I need for Smoky Mountains National Park?

For an inexpensive vacation, the Smokies are hard to beat. Unlike the Grand Canyon and most other national parks this one won’t cost you a penny to enter. The Smokies are entirely admission-free thanks to the many area residents who gave up their land and contributed funds to create the park.

That means that, aside from gas for your car expenses are minimal. Camping, one of the best ways to experience the Smokies, costs $30-$36 a night per site depending on amenities. Backcountry camping requires a permit and advanced reservation. 

All of the attractions within the park are free including the Mountain Farm Museum, Cades Cove historic buildings, and the panoramic overlook at Clingmans Dome not to mention all of the hiking trails. Add to that the many free ranger-led programs run by the park including night hikes, storytelling by the campfire, morning porch talks (free coffee provided), Appalachian culture fairs and you have the makings of one of America’s most remarkable budget-friendly getaways.

Clingmans Dome © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Where’s the best place to stay near Smoky Mountains National Park

The allure of the Great Smoky Mountains is certainly no secret and the park gets quite crowded during the busy summer months and in the autumn when the leaves change color. It’s wise to plan well ahead so you can get your first choice when it comes to accommodation. 

There are no motels or rental cabins within the park. Instead, all but one of the park’s nine frontcountry campgrounds can be reserved online. For backcountry sites that are accessible only via hiking trail you can make reservations through the park’s backcountry permit office either in person or online.

 If you’re new to camping or spending time outdoors, read up on Leave No Trace principles before you head out or check out these guidelines on how to RV responsibly.

If you prefer not to sleep in a tent, the only option inside park boundaries is the LeConte Lodge, a delightfully old-fashioned collection of wooden cottages near the top of Mount LeConte (elevation 6,594 feet). The lodge is not accessible by road so to get there you’ll have to hoof it uphill on a hike ranging from 5.5 miles to 9 miles in length depending on which trail you use.

There are meals available at LeConte when you arrive. The supplies for which are brought up by llamas which you might see along the way if you take the Trillium Gap Trail. Due to the popularity of LeConte’s hospitality, however, you’ll need to make reservations months or even a year in advance.

There are plenty of accommodation options outside the park, too. Gatlinburg, something of a resort village, is packed with hotels and guesthouses, and there are cabin rentals around the city and throughout the surrounding area – particularly near Cherokee, Bryson City and Pigeon Forge.

Newfound Gap Road © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Being prepared (and staying safe) in the Smokies

Hiking trails are well-marked in the national park though it’s wise to pick up a good map (available in the visitors centers) before setting out. Make sure you have sturdy walking shoes (preferably waterproof hiking boots), ample water and snacks, warm clothing (it gets chilly at higher elevations, even in the summer,) and gear for rain (precipitation is a year-round possibility). 

A walking stick also comes in handy. Be sure to let a non-hiking partner know where you’re going and when you plan to be back. Watch out for slippery rocks and don’t swim or wade in park waters (falls and drowning are among the leading causes of injury).

As this is bear country you must store all your food and any trash that smells like food appropriately. It’s important to be mindful in order to protect wildlife from becoming dependent on humans for food or getting close to humans in ways that endanger both you and the animals who call the park home. Never feed the wild animals, dispose of trash properly in approved receptacles, and use bear canisters or bear lockers to keep your snacks from attracting critters to your campsite.

Speaking of bears, they’re generally quite shy and avoid human contact though if you do come across one keep your distance and don’t disturb the bear. In the unlikely event the bear approaches you, stand your ground, make yourself tall, and make a lot of noise which usually deters the bear.

Worth Pondering…

Each year thousands of backpackers 
Climb the Great Smoky Mountains… 
Nature’s Peace flows into them
as Sunshine flows into Trees;
the Winds blow their freshness into them…
and their Cares drop off like Autumn Leaves.

—Adapted from John Muir

Great Smoky Mountains National Park: A Guide for RVers

America’s most visited national park, Great Smoky Mountains is an ideal getaway. Hike, camp, and experience one of America’s oldest mountain ranges.

I love all things nature. I enjoy visiting the National Parks, 22 so far and numerous National Park Service (NPS) sites including National Monuments, National Historic Sites, National Battlefields, National Seashores, and National Recreation Areas.

However, America’s highways and byways offer many unique sites along the way. Like you, we discuss where we want to go and work backward from there. That allows us to research all of those spots in between that fall into the must-see column. Therein is my motivation for this new series of articles: A Guide for RVers.

A Guide for RVers will provide you with not only hints and facts about nature found on your road trip but those often missed stops along the way. For example, if you are heading from Bryce Canyon National Park to Capitol Reef National Park take time to visit Escalante Petrified Forest State Park in Escalante and view the historic grounds of Anasazi State Park in Boulder. 

Perhaps you find yourself on a layover in Mitchell, South Dakota heading to Badlands National Park and the Black Hills. Take time to tour the World’s Only Corn Palace. 

My new series of articles, A Guide for RVers will run intermittently in the months ahead. It will include links to related articles, interesting nature facts associated with those places, and a shout-out to good eats along the way. I will add a special line called “Wait. What?!” in each column to give you some jaw-dropping facts about the specific topic and nature in general. 

I hope that you will find that A Guide for RVers is interesting, informative, and entertaining as well.

Newfound Gap Road, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

I’ll begin our adventure with the most visited National Park, Great Smoky Mountains National Park with 13.2 million visitors in 2023. That is only slightly less visits than Yellowstone (4.5 million), Grand Canyon (5.2 million), and Zion (4.6 million) combined. Why is that? It is within one day’s drive of one-half the U.S. population. Plus, plenty of side attractions have located just outside its protected borders.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Getting there

Using your favorite GPS navigator, U.S. Highway 441 bisects the park from the most popular entrance on the northside to Sugarlands Visitor Center at Gatlinburg, Tennessee. It ends, or begins, depending on your starting point, at the Oconaluftee Visitor Center via the Southside entrance at Cherokee, North Carolina. Known as Newfoundland Gap Road, US-441 curves its way through the park to an elevation of 5,046 feet before dropping back down.  

Once close to Knoxville, head south to any one of the popular towns: Townsend, Pigeon Forge, Gatlinburg, Sevierville, or Cosby. Among these, you will find more than two dozen RV parks and campgrounds.

Coming in from the Southside, you will head toward Cherokee. RV parks are few and the roads to any are winding. The same goes for getting to the Oconaluftee Visitors Center. There is a KOA and a few Good Sam parks along with a plethora of campgrounds.

Staying in Great Smoky Mountains National Park

If you are looking to rough it in your RV, the park offers nine campgrounds. The only one with water/electric hookups (10 sites) is Look Rock plus the means to park RVs up to 48 feet. All others are dry camping only with limited site lengths: Cades Cove and Smokemount—40 feet motorhomes, 35 feet for trailers; Elkmount—35 feet for motorhomes, 32 feet trailers; Cataloochee—31 feet; Balsam Mountain—30 feet; Deep Creek—26 feet; and Cosby—25 feet. Availability goes quickly, so a 6-month advance reservation is recommended. You can only reserve at recreation.gov in all national parks. 

You are there. Now what?

Sugarlands Visitor Center, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Visitor Center

Begin your exploration of the park at a visitor center. Here you can pick up a park map or newspaper, have your questions answered by a ranger, and purchase books and guides to the park. For current ranger-led activities, visit the park’s calendar for details.

Four visitor centers are located within the national park at Sugarlands, Oconaluftee, Cades Cove, and Clingmans Dome.

The park has two historic gristmills, Cable Mill and Mingus Mill that provide demonstrations of corn meal milling. (Mingus Mill is closed until further notice for rehabilitation work.)

Parking permits

Great Smoky Mountains National Park does not charge an entrance fee. However, parking tags are required for all vehicles parking for longer than 15 minutes.

The best method is to purchase online. Otherwise, you can purchase one at a Visitor’s Center or kiosk. 

Three tag durations are available for purchase for all vehicle sizes and types:

  • Daily: $5
  • Weekly: $15
  • Annual: $40
Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Driving tours

Great Smoky Mountains National Park encompasses over 800 square miles and is one of the most pristine natural areas in the East. An auto tour of the park offers a variety of experiences including panoramic views, tumbling mountain streams, weathered historic buildings, and mature hardwood forests stretching to the horizon.

Visitors can choose from 384 miles of road in the Smokies. Most are paved and the gravel roads are maintained in suitable condition for standard passenger cars.

Cades Cove

Cades Cove is a scenic valley surrounded on all sides by mountains south of Townsend, Tennessee. A popular 11-mile one-way loop road encircling the valley provides access to hiking trails, opportunities for wildlife viewing, and chances to explore the many historic homesites, cemeteries, and churches. The area also holds a visitor center, campground, picnic area, and riding stable.

Many of the early settlers’ houses and a few primitive churches remain standing. Pull-out parking is available, but limited.

Allow at least two to four hours to tour Cades Cove, longer if you walk some of the area’s trails. Traffic is heavy during the tourist season in summer and fall and on weekends year-round. Trust me when I say, avoid the weekends!

Vehicle-free access along the Cades Cove Loop Road takes place each Wednesday from May through September.

The beginning of the loop is well marked: from Cherokee, 57 miles; from Gatlinburg, 27 miles; and from Townsend, 9 miles. Restrooms are available about halfway at the Cades Cove Visitors Center. From spring through fall one can expect to see wild turkeys, white-tailed deer, and black bears. There are a few easy- to moderate-difficulty hiking trailheads along the route. Again, parking is limited and by permit only (See above).

Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail

Another popular loop of 5.5 miles takes you through an old-growth forest alongside a mountain stream. At about 2.5 miles is the trailhead for the Noah “Bud” Ogle self-guiding nature trail (0.7-mile easy loop). This takes you across two brooks, past his 1880s “saddle-bag” farmhouse listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and around his “pass-through” barn. Do not miss the “tub mill” used for grinding corn and the only one still existing out of a dozen in the area.

To access Roaring Fork, turn off the main parkway in Gatlinburg at traffic light #8 and follow Historic Nature Trail Road to the Cherokee Orchard entrance to the national park. Just beyond the Rainbow Falls trailhead you have the option of taking the one-way Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail (closed in winter). Please note that RVs are not permitted on the motor nature trail.

Clingman’s Dome, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Clingman’s Dome

At an elevation of 6,643 feet, not only is it the highest mountain in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park but it also boasts the highest point in Tennessee and the highest point along the Appalachian Trail. Built in 1959, the observation tower allows visitors a 360-degree panorama of the Smokies. On a clear day you can see more than 100 miles. However, most days are smoky limiting visibility to about 20 miles.

Due to the steepness of the paved ramp up to the tower (1 mile round-trip), wheelchairs, pets, and bicycles are prohibited. Also, remember that at this elevation the ambient temperature is 10 to 20 degrees cooler than Gatlinburg.

Hiking trail to Clingman’s Dome, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Hiking trails

Great Smoky Mountains National Park stands out as a hiker’s heaven with more than 800 miles of trails through an old-growth forest including 71 miles of the Appalachian Trail. No wonder it is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site (1983).

One of the most daunting tasks facing hikers is choosing a trail. Start by deciding on what you would like to see. Waterfalls? Old-growth forests? Endless views? Then decide how far you would like to hike. If you haven’t hiked much recently, be conservative. Five miles roundtrip is a good maximum distance for novices.

Trails range from easy (Spruce Fir Trail, 0.4 miles r/t, 25-feet elevation gain), to moderate (Rainbow Falls, 5.4 miles r/t, 1685-feet elevation gain), to strenuous (Mt. Le Conte via Trillium Gap, 13.9 miles r/t, 3401-feet elevation gain). Remember, always check with the rangers at the Visitors Center for trail conditions, wildlife spotting, and permits, if required.

Some of the most popular destination hikes in the park include:

  • Charlies Bunion (4.0 miles one-way; 1,600 feet elevation change)
  • Alum Cave Bluffs (2.5 miles one-way; 1,200 feet elevation change)
  • Andrews Bald (1.8 miles one-way; 1,200 feet elevation change)
  • Rainbow Falls (2.7 miles one-way; 1,700 feet elevation change)
  • Chimney Tops (3.5 miles roundtrip; 1,400 feet elevation change)
Cable Mill, Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Flora and fauna

Great Smoky Mountains National Park shows more than 1,500 flowering species with spring offering the showiest of wildflowers. Of course, timing is everything. The Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage (75th annual; April 23-26, 2025) offers guided walks and talks.

This is black bear habitat. They crawl from hibernation in the spring and forage all summer. July is mating season with bear cubs abundant shortly after. Follow NPS bear safety instructions should you encounter one. Speaking of safety, there are 23 species of snakes, but only two are venomous: Timber rattlesnake and Northern copperhead. Watch your step.

When hiking you may encounter sightings of coyotes, elk, white-tailed deer, raccoons, squirrels, and chipmunks. Enjoy from afar. Park regulations prohibit feeding any wild critter. 

Synchronous Fireflies (Photinus carolinus)

Of the 19 different species of fireflies that live within the GSMNP, the synchronous fireflies stand out among them all. The flash pattern alerts females that the males are of their species. It begins with a series of 5-8 flashes, a pause of about 8 seconds, and then this repeated pattern. Watching this mating ritual ranks as a truly unique experience.

To stand among the viewers requires one to enter the park lottery. This happens in late April to early May when the lottery for vehicle passes closes. The viewing begins when the adults seek to mate usually in June. To enter one must go to recreation.gov.

Another opportunity awaits in northeast Tennessee at Rocky Fork State Park. Again, admission is by lottery only. 

Gatlinburg © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Makin’ merry

Pigeon Forge seems like a carnival that never ends. From Dollywood to the Old Mill Historic District there are plenty of places for excitement. When it comes to eats, you name it, from fast foods to dinner theaters.

Big names like Guy Fieri’s Downtown Flavortown, Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, and Paula Deen’s Family Kitchen are located on The Island, another tourist destination. In the mood for fried chicken or catfish, try J.T. Hannah’s Kitchen. Plenty of barbecue available, but Preachers Smokehouse is hard to beat. Get there early as they sell out quickly. Finally, do not forget to taste the moonshine. It will make you merry!

I hope that these few words piqued your curiosity and motivated you to roll on over to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Do not let the crowds put you off. You just have to plan your trip and be smarter than the average visitor. One final remark: Unless you stay for a month, do not try to do it all in one visit. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is HUGE covering 522,427 acres. In visiting, I can say that once is not nearly enough.

Hiking trail in Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Wait. What?!  

Bioluminescence, the production of light by living organisms is not limited to fireflies. Several other species light up. These include certain fish, shrimp, plankton, jellyfish, fungus, and gnats.

Want more travel ideas for this area?

Happy Travels!

Worth Pondering…

Each year thousands of backpackers 
Climb the Great Smoky Mountains… 
Nature’s Peace flows into them
as Sunshine flows into Trees;
the Winds blow their freshness into them…
and their Cares drop off like Autumn Leaves.

—Adapted from John Muir

The Complete Guide to Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Retrace the steps of the Cherokee on quiet nature trails and witness autumn’s splendor in America’s most popular park

It’s not surprising that the Great Smoky Mountains is the most-visited of the nation’s 63 national parks welcoming more than 12.9 million visitors in 2022. Within driving distance of so many busy hubs in the eastern U.S., the massive natural expanse offers hard-to-match beauty with its unbroken chain of mist-shrouded mountain peaks rising more than 5,000 feet meandering streams, cascading waterfalls, flower-strewn meadows, and miles of old-growth forests.

Nearly evenly split between eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina the park has 62 species of mammals—including iconic black bears, bobcats, coyotes, red wolves and an estimated 200 elk—roaming its 522,427 acres. It’s also home to more than 67 varieties of fish, 234 species of birds, and dozens of species of salamanders (the park has been called the Salamander Capital of the World).

Members of the Cherokee Nation lived in these mystical mountains long before European settlers arrived—their roots here dating back more than 1,000 years. The ever-present fog circling the range prompted the Cherokee to name the mountains shaconage which translates to place of blue smoke. Euro-Americans later dubbed them the Great Smoky Mountains.

Chartered by Congress in 1934 and officially dedicated by President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1940, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park offers near-endless outdoor fun from hiking (you can find trails for all ability levels) to boating, cycling, fishing, and horseback riding. You can also explore old farmsteads of the Appalachian people who once called these mountains home.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Plan your trip

Three major Tennessee cities are within an easy drive from Great Smoky Mountain National Park: Chattanooga is 108 miles southwest, Knoxville is just 32 miles north, and Nashville 194 miles northwest. From North Carolina, Asheville is just 37 miles east and Charlotte is 151 miles southeast. Atlanta is 175 miles southwest.

Located 42 miles southeast of Knoxville, Gatlinburg serves as the gateway to the main entrance on the park’s north (Tennessee) side. At the same time, the town of Cherokee leads visitors into the North Carolina sector on the southeast side. There’s no need to pull out your wallet at the park entrances: Great Smoky Mountains National Park has no entry fee.

Once inside, you’ll find four visitors centers—Cades Cove, Clingmans Dome, Oconaluftee, and Sugarlands—each provide park information and ranger-led programs. It’s a good idea to start your visit at the Sugarlands center just 2 miles from the Gatlinburg entrance for a 20-minute orientation film that provides a good overview.

Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Great Smoky Mountains National Park has 384 miles of well-maintained roads—most are paved but some are gravel. Remember you’re in the mountains so be prepared for many twists and turns plus occasional steep inclines and declines. (Note that some secondary roads have restrictions on large vehicles such as RVs.) The Newfoundland Gap Road winds 31 miles southeast from Gatlinburg to Cherokee connecting the two gateways.

In spring, the resident 1,600-plus black bears emerge from their winter slumber more than 1,500 species of wildflowers begin to bloom blanketing the park in multichromatic splendor and mating fireflies light up the night sky in brilliant synchronicity. Daytime temperatures average a pleasant 65 degrees with nighttime lows of 45 degrees.

Peak season runs from mid-June through mid-August when monthly visitor totals hover around 1.5 million. Temperatures peak, too, with highs often climbing above 80 degrees during the day. Summer afternoons often bring thunderstorms with July being the wettest month. By nightfall, the temperatures drop to a comfortable average of 55 degrees.

The humid summer weather subsides in September and crowds start to thin out. In October, even cooler temperatures arrive usually ranging from 40 to 50 degrees along with a new surge of visitors. When hues of red, gold, and orange spill down from the mountain peaks to the forest floor the park sees its second peak season. To view the autumn splendor without all the traffic, slip into the quieter North Carolina sector for a weekday visit.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Winter snow and ice close some of the driving routes including the popular road to Clingmans Dome, the park’s highest mountain (elevation 6,643 feet). But the area remains open for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, or a winter walk through the high-altitude spruce-fir forest.

Plan to unplug when visiting the park: There are no cell towers making reception limited or nonexistent except at higher elevations where visitors can sometimes detect signals. Limited Wi-Fi may be available at some locations.

You’ll find restroom facilities at visitor centers, campgrounds, picnic areas, Newfound Gap, and Clingmans Dome. Don’t expect facilities on the trails except for a portable toilet on the Grotto Falls Trail and primitive facilities at the Rainbow Falls trailhead.

Accessible programs span from ranger-led explorations of the intricate forest floor to tours highlighting the park’s human history. You can explore much of the park by car with pull-off parking available to view the surrounding landscapes and short trails for venturing a bit farther.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Where to stay and eat

If you want to stay overnight in the park be prepared to give your quads quite the workout. Reaching the only in-park accommodations (besides camping) requires a 5.5-mile hike and physical endurance but you’re rewarded with stellar sunrises and sunsets and star-filled night skies. Designed for those summiting Mount Le Conte, the park’s third-highest mountain (elevation 6,594 feet), the Mount Le Conte Lodge can host up to 60 overnight guests in rustic one-room cabins and multiroom lodges. Day-trippers can break here for lunch as well.

The park also maintains 10 campgrounds for tents and RVs in a range of inviting locales from riversides to forests. All have restrooms, cold running water and flush toilets but no showers or electrical or water hookups. Each site has a fire grate and picnic table. Reservations are required (recreation.gov) from May through October with limited first-come, first-served sites also available from November through April.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Just 8 miles from the gateway town of Gatlinburg, Elkmont Campground is the Great Smoky Mountains’s largest and busiest camping destination with 200 campsites, nine of them ADA-compliant (wide concrete driveways, raised fire rings, and wheelchair-accessible picnic tables) alongside the Little River. A quieter alternative is Cosby Campground on the park’s northeast side: It offers 157 campsites nestled under a canopy of hemlock trees and the feel of backcountry camping with frontcountry amenities.

Backpackers can access primitive backcountry sites with a reservation plus five drive-in horse camps with primitive camping facilities and hitch racks provide easy access to backcountry horse trails. For backcountry permits ($4 nightly per person), call 865-436-1297.

You won’t be eating lavishly here. Great Smoky Mountains National Park’s only dining option is the snack bar at the Cades Cove Campground store which serves breakfast items, sandwiches, pizza, soups, wraps, and ice cream. You’ll also find vending machines at visitors’ centers. It’s best to bring your own food and enjoy one of the 12 picnic areas scattered throughout the park in forests and alongside rivers and creeks. They come with charcoal grills and picnic tables.

Driving Newfound Gap Highway, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Things to do

From hiking on 150 trails covering 850 miles to cycling, fishing, and horseback riding, Great Smoky Mountains National Park delivers recreational options aplenty for all fitness levels. Or take it easy and sightsee from the comfort of your car on highways and motor trails (one-way scenic loops) that showcase park highlights.

On the Newfound Gap Highway take advantage of numerous pullouts to marvel at the scenic vistas. Along the drive stretch your legs and absorb nature’s soundtrack on short, easy trails marked as Quiet Walkways. The 0.3-mile Balsam Point Quiet Walkway slightly north of the Chimney Tops overlook, serves up views of the Steep Branch Creek, and the west prong of the Little Pigeon River. Take a seat on a bench in the clearing and soak in the scenery.

And consider some must-sees and must-dos in both the Tennessee and North Carolina sides of the park:

Sugarlands Visitor Center, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In Tennessee

You don’t have to go far beyond the main entrance for a leisurely walk in a forest. Just outside the Sugarlands Visitor Center the easy 1.1-mile Fighting Creek Nature Trail gives you an introduction to the park’s wildlife with possible sightings of black bears, elk, whitetail deer, and more.

If you’re up for a longer but still easy hike with plenty to keep you entertained consider the 4.9-mile round-trip Little River Trail in the Elkmont area about 6 miles west of the Sugarlands center. It’s a relatively flat, wide trail that follows the river and along with its natural beauty there’s a lot of human history to discover as you hike. Those include ruins of former resort cabins from the 1920s, remnants of the area’s history as a getaway for the Knoxville elite.

Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Or try the Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail which winds nearly 6 miles through old-growth forests alongside gurgling mountain streams. The trail begins 3 miles into the park from the Cherokee Orchard entrance a little more than a mile east of the Sugarlands center.

One mile before you get to the trail stop at the Noah “Bud” Ogle self-guided 0.7-mile nature trail for a walking tour of an authentic mountain farmstead with one of the park’s last remaining, fully operational tub mills. Then, if you’re up for more physical activity, tackle the 5.4-mile (round-trip), moderately strenuous hike to Rainbow Falls which begins just beyond the farmstead. This rock-strewn path gains about 1,500 feet in elevation en route to the 80-foot-high cascading falls named for the rainbow that often appears in the mist.

Thirty miles west of the Sugarlands center, scenic beauty and abundant wildlife make Cades Cove the park’s most popular area. An 11-mile loop drive winds through the cove and past early 19th-century homesteads, barns, churches, and a fully operational gristmill harkening back to the Appalachian way of life.

Hikers flock to Cades Cove to access popular trailheads including the 5-mile (round-trip) moderate Abrams Falls hike that leads through a gorgeous pine-oak forest alongside Abrams Creek to the namesake 20-foot waterfall that cascades into a long, deep pool.

Clingmans Dome, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Clingmans Dome near the park’s center straddles the state line between Tennessee and North Carolina. The road to the soaring mountain detours from Newfound Gap Highway about 7 miles south taking you to within a half-mile of the namesake observation tower. If you’re physically able continue on foot for a steep uphill climb with a big payoff: stunning 365-degree views of the surrounding Smokies.

Want to go really gonzo and test your grit? Challenge yourself on Mount Le Conte, north of the Newfound Gap road near the park’s center where several trails lead to the 6,594-foot summit. On the Alum Cave Trail, the shortest and steepest you’ll hike up 5.5 miles passing Mount Le Conte Lodge.

Mountain Farm Museum at Oconaluftee Visitor Center (near Cherokee), Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In North Carolina

Escape the crowds on the busier Tennessee side and relish in the Smokies’ wild beauty in the isolated Cataloochee Valley in the park’s less-visited North Carolina section. Surrounded by mountain peaks the valley once served as hunting grounds for the Cherokee. Later, one of the area’s largest Appalachian settlements prospered here. Preserved late 19th-century and early 20th-century structures—including two churches, a schoolhouse, and several cabins—reveal this history. Pick up a self-guiding tour booklet from a roadside box near the valley’s entrance.

Black bears, deer, elk, and other wildlife roam this peaceful valley. For the best chance of spotting elk arrive about an hour before sunrise or a couple of hours before sunset. For anglers Cataloochee Creek teems with wild trout. Hike all or part of the moderate 7-mile Boogerman Trail loop for a restorative amble through lush old-growth woods and over the rushing waters of Caldwell Fork.

Experience the park’s beauty from a different vantage point on Fontana Lake on Great Smoky Mountains National Park’s southern border which gives you access to the park’s most remote areas and the adjacent Nantahala National Forest. From one of several marinas rent a pontoon boat for exploring on your own or take a hiking tour via boat with Sunny Day Adventure Company. Many trails surrounding the lake are relatively flat which makes them accessible for most visitors.

When the October peak season overruns the roads in other park sections this area is ideal for leaf-peeping and wildlife viewing. Lake traffic dissipates in the fall but that’s actually one of the best times to be on the water. There’s a bonus for taking the road (or lake) less traveled: Black bear sightings are likely as they come down from the treetops to feed on the roe left behind by spawning fish.

Gateway towns

Gatlinburg © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Gatlinburg, Tennessee

With a fun, Orlando-like theme park vibe—coupled with a country twang—Gatlinburg and the adjoining town of Pigeon Forge flaunt attractions of every variety. Ideal if you have children or grandkids in tow: Ripley’s Aquarium of the Smokies where a penguin cam keeps an eye on the tuxedo-clad charmers.

Nearby, the Gatlinburg SkyLift Park’s elevator whisks you up to the SkyBridge for some exhilarating (maybe nerve-racking for some) sightseeing at cloud level on this pedestrian bridge stretching 680 feet across a deep gorge at a height of 140 feet.

A Tennessee classic, Dolly Parton’s Dollywood amusement park thrills with all the twists, turns, and spins expected—all served with a heaping side of country music.

Lodging options in Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge range from resorts to chain motels. On the high end spoil yourself in a luxury suite at the Margaritaville Resort and Spa on the Pigeon River. For something budget-friendly settle into one of the basic rooms (breakfast included) at the Greystone Lodge on the River, where you can use the town’s trolley to easily access Gatlinburg’s attractions (there’s a stop across the street from the lodge).

Fuel up for a busy day of exploring at the Pancake Pantry, a longtime (since 1960) Gatlinburg favorite that serves a mouthwatering range of sweet offerings such as Banana Pineapple Triumph pancakes topped with powdered sugar and whipped cream.

Pigeon Forge © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Cherokee, North Carolina

Located on the Cherokee Indian Reservation, the town of Cherokee focuses on the tribal nation. Revisit the 18th century at the Oconaluftee Indian Village amid re-creations of traditional Cherokee dwellings, sacred ritual sites and workshops. Delve deeper into the tribe’s 11,000-year-old history through interactive exhibits and cultural displays at the Museum of the Cherokee Indian. For outdoor recreation and an adrenaline rush, go white-water rafting on the Nantahala River in nearby Bryson City.

Splurge on a luxury cabin complete with fireplace, hot tub, and access to a private chef at Cherokee Mountain Cabins. Alternatively, the budget-friendly Cherokee KOA Campground rents both deluxe cabins (with full bathrooms and showers) and basic camping ones (with the use of the campground bathhouse). Roll the dice at Harrah’s Cherokee Casino.

When hunger strikes, the family-owned Granny’s Kitchen dishes up generous portions of classic Southern cuisine. Fill up on barbecue ribs, pork chops, and black-eyed peas at the lunch and dinner buffet.

Blue Ridge Parkway Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

En route

Traveling from Atlanta to Cherokee on U.S. Highway 23, a 16-mile detour along Georgia Route 384 North leads to Helen, Georgia, a charming mountain town that replicates a Bavarian alpine village (yes, in the Deep South). Stroll along its picturesque cobblestone streets and you’ll find specialty shops showcasing everything from kitschy souvenirs to handmade candles, artfully blown glass, and cuckoo clocks. For dining, sink your teeth into a hearty plate of schnitzel at the Heidelberg.

If you’re coming from Asheville, carve out time to tour the opulent Biltmore Estate before leaving the city. Erected in the late 1800s for George Vanderbilt, grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt, the lavish country home sits on a 125,000-acre tract south of town.

Add a few extra days if you can to explore the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway. The southern end of this 469-mile linear park begins just 0.2 miles outside Great Smoky Mountain National Park’s Oconaluftee Visitor Center and extends into Virginia connecting with Shenandoah National Park.

Great Smoky National Park offers a unique and unforgettable experience. I hope this guide helps you plan your adventure and that you’ll soon discover the magic of this park.

Here are a few more articles to help you do just that:

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Fact box

Location: Split nearly even between eastern Tennessee and western North Carolina

Size: 522,427 acres

Highest peak: Clingmans Dome at 6,643 feet

Lowest point: Abrams Creek at 876 feet

Miles/number of trails: 850 miles along 150 trails

Main attraction: Cades Cove

Entry fee: Free

Best way to see it: Along its well-maintained roadways

When to go for nice weather and fewer crowds: Before mid-June and in September

Worth Pondering…

Each year thousands of backpackers 
Climb the Great Smoky Mountains… 
Nature’s Peace flows into them
as Sunshine flows into Trees;
the Winds blow their freshness into them…
and their Cares drop off like Autumn Leaves.

—Adapted from John Muir

2024 National Park Free Entrance Days: Top 10 States to Visit

NPS has announced its free entrance days for 2024 so here are the states with the highest number of national parks and the highest concentration of national park sites

The National Park Service (NPS) sites which include national parks, national monuments, national recreation areas, national seashores, national historic sites, and other protected areas are incredible public spaces to enjoy and learn about nature. Some national park sites charge entrance fees but NPS has announced six fee-free entrance days in 2024:

  • January 15: Birthday of Martin Luther King Jr
  • April 20: First day of National Park Week
  • June 19: Juneteenth National Independence Day
  • August 4: Great American Outdoors Act anniversary
  • September 28: National Public Lands Day
  • November 11: Veterans Day

A great way to take full advantage of these free entrance days is to visit multiple national park sites in one day. While that may be difficult or even impossible in many areas there are several states with a high concentration of national park sites.

10 best states for national park sites

The following states are great places to travel to visit national parks at any time of the year whether or not you make it for the free entrance days.

1. Alaska

The Last Frontier has eight national parks and a total of 23 NPS sites including national monuments and other federally preserved areas. While Alaska is the largest state, three of the national parks are fairly close together—you can visit Kenai Fjords, Katmai, and Lake Clark National Parks within one day.

Joshua Tree National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

2. California

The Golden State has nine national parks, the most of any state. The most popular national park in California is Yosemite but even the park with the smallest number of annual visitors, Pinnacles, is incredible and worth a visit. With a total of 28 national park sites, there is no shortage of beautiful locations to visit.

Here are a few great articles to help you do just that:

Bryce Canyon National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

3. Utah

The Beehive State has five national parks (The Big Five) and they are much closer together than those found in Alaska and California—in fact, it takes about seven hours to drive from Zion to Canyonlands and stop at the three other national parks in between. However, it’s worth it to slow down and spend more time at each park so consider sticking to one park each day.

Here are some articles to help:

Petrified Forest National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

4. Arizona

Arizona and Colorado, the next state on the list, both have four national parks. However, Arizona has a higher total of NPS sites at 22 making it a great place to take a national parks road trip. Grand Canyon National Park is the best known in Arizona but Saguaro National Park and the lesser known Petrified Forest National Park, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area also offers incredible vistas and outdoor opportunities.

Here are a few great articles to help you do just that:

Mesa Verde National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

5. Colorado

With four national parks and a total of 13 NPS sites, Colorado is another great option for national park enthusiasts. Mesa Verde National Park is remarkable because apart from its national park status it is also recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it preserves the rich cultural history of many indigenous tribes.

Here are some articles to help:

6. Hawaii

The Hawaiian Islands have two national parks and a total of eight national park sites which is especially impressive when you remember that’s within an area of 10,392 square miles per the United States Census Bureau. One of the parks, Haleakalā, is located on the island of Maui which was recently devastated by fires so make sure to avoid the areas closed to tourism.

Mount St. Helens National Monument © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

7. Washington

The crown of the Pacific Northwest is home to three national parks and a total of 15 NPS sites. Mount Rainier is perhaps the best known of the three but North Cascades and Olympic both protect a huge array of diverse wildlife. Washington is also home to a former plutonium factory that makes up one-third of the Manhattan Project National Historical Park.

Read more:

8. Florida

This state is home to three national parks including Dry Tortugas which can only be reached via plane, ferry, or boat. The other two, Biscayne and Everglades are within about an hour’s distance of each other meaning you can visit both in one day.

Shenandoah National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

9. Virginia

Although Virginia only has one national park, it is home to a total of 22 NPS sites. Given its area of 42,775 square miles that means there is a fairly high concentration of NPS sites within the state making it an excellent area to explore for national park lovers.

Here’s an article to help you do just that: The Ultimate Guide to Shenandoah National Park

White Sands National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

10. New Mexico

Set in the Southwest, New Mexico boasts many breathtaking landscapes that are often overlooked by visitors. Besides all its desolate yet dramatic desert scenery, the state is home to the rearing Rocky Mountains, the roaring Rio Grande, and plenty of colorful canyons, cliffs, and caves. New Mexico has two national parks (Carlsbad Caverns, White Sands), three national historical parks (Chaco Culture, Pecos, Manhattan Project), one national heritage area (Northern Rio Grande)m, and 11 national monuments including four administered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).

That’s why I wrote these seven articles:

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Bonus: Tennessee

Tennessee is home to part of Great Smoky Mountains National Park which welcomes the most annual visitors of any national park site in the United States. It also has a total of 13 NPS sites meaning there are a plethora of exploration opportunities.

By the way, I have a series of posts on the Great Smokies:

Worth Pondering…

The national parks in the U.S. are destinations unto themselves with recreation, activities, history, and culture.

—Jimmy Im

Cherohala Skyway Festival: Celebrating 27 Years of the Mile High Legend

The seventh iteration of the Cherohala Skyway Festival is coming up this weekend.

The Cherohala Skyway Festival is the perfect excuse to get outdoors and experience fall colors all along the Cherohala Skyway, a National Scenic Byway and one of the most beautiful drives in the Appalachian mountain regions.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Cherohala Skyway

The Cherohala Skyway was opened and dedicated in 1996. The road has been designated a National Scenic Byway. The road cost over 100 million dollars to construct.

The Cherohala Skyway crosses through the Cherokee National Forest in Tennessee and the Nantahala National Forest in North Carolina. The name Cherohala comes from the names of the two National Forests: Chero from the Cherokee and hala from the Nantahala.

The Cherohala Skyway is located in southeast Tennessee and southwest North Carolina. The Skyway connects Tellico Plains, Tennessee with Robbinsville, North Carolina, and is 42 miles long. The Skyway is a wide, paved 2-lane road maintained by the Tennessee Department of Transportation and the North Carolina Department of Transportation. The elevations range from 900 feet above sea level at the Tellico River in Tennessee to over 5,400 feet above sea level at the Tennessee-North Carolina state line at Haw Knob.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Cherohala Skyway Festival

The 7th Annual Cherohala Skyway Festival in Tellico Plains is hosted by the Charles Hall Museum and Heritage Center on Saturday, October 28 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Located in Tellico Plains, Tennessee, the Cherohala Skyway Festival is an opportunity to get outdoors for a day of family fun.

There will be booth after booth of juried arts and crafts, lots of living history, and plenty of incredible food and treats.

Test your axe throwing skills at the On The Road Axe Throw trailer, paint a pumpkin, and have your face painted. You’ll find lots of free festival fun including horse-drawn wagon rides, a petting zoo, kids train rides, tractor-pulled hay rides, a huge inflatable Kids Zone, a sawdust dig for cash and treasures, and Mecca Camp’s Resort’s Game Zone.

Live Bluegrass and mountain music will fill the air all day long at the Josh Graves Memorial Music Festival.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Food for everyone

First Baptist will offer a free pancake breakfast from 8:30-10 a.m.

A & A Meat will be grilling thick slices of bologna on grilled Texas toast with grilled onions or grilled cheese sandwiches.

Cristal’s Kitchen will cook pinto beans over an open fire and serve with cornbread and relish. 

Slim’s Burger Joint offers burger and cheeseburger baskets with all the southern fixings including French Fries and Mozzarella sticks.

There will be food trucks on site including smoked BBQ and so many other favorite foods.

For dessert, try funnel cakes, kettle corn, popcorn, gourmet caramel apples, cotton candy, sno cones, and a wide variety of baked goods.

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Living history

All ages can step back in time in the Living History areas. There will be demonstrations and games showing the life of the early settlers and Cherokee in the early 1800s. Learn about the favorite games of the Cherokee, beading, and corn husk doll making. Interact with 18th-century camps and taste dishes cooked over an open fire. A Long Hunters camp will have all the camping equipment used by the early frontiersmen as they crossed the Appalachian Mountains into the American frontier.

Watch how a Native American flute is made and listen to live Native American flute music. Learn more about the Cherokee in the area and their removal through forced treaties and later forced removal through the Hall Museum’s displays in building 1 and the Tennessee Trail of Tears booth. 

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Directions

The festival will be held at the Charles Hall Museum complex (229 Cherohala Skyway) and The Charles Hall Field (122 Bank Street) behind the museum complex.           

From I-75, take the exit and travel east on New Highway 68 through Madisonville to Tellico Plains and the junction with Route 165. Turn right onto Highway 165 (Cherohala Skyway) and proceed to one of three parking areas: 

Turn immediately to the left onto Bank Street before Volunteer Federal Bank. Enter the field on the right at the marked entrance beside the Fire Truck across from Hardees and before Tellicafe. A parking attendant will direct you. Shuttles are available but it is just a few steps to the festival. 

Cherohala Skyway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Continue to the Hall Museum. A parking attendant will direct you to either park in the Farmer’s Market area after the Tellico Plains Library and before the Cherohala Skyway Visitor’s Center or at the parking areas at the Hall Museum entrance. There will be easy access parking in this area and an area to drop off handicapped individuals before you park.

DO NOT PARK in Volunteer Federal Bank’s parking lot until after 1 p.m. Easy parking is available in designated lots for $5/vehicle. BRING CASH! Admission to the festival is FREE as well as most activities.

Worth Pondering…

Every leaf speaks bliss to me, fluttering from the autumn tree.

—Emily Brontë, Fall, Leaves, Fall

Eight Reasons to Explore the Smokies

Here you’ll find spectacular scenery as awe-inspiring mountain landscapes give way to cascading waterfalls, wildlife, and countless outdoor activities

Great Smoky Mountains National Park straddles the border between North Carolina and Tennessee in the Appalachian Mountain chain, one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world. The park offers visitors spectacular views, recreation, and natural wonders in each season.

Adjoined by three national forests, the 800-square-mile park is the ancestral homeland of the Cherokee. They called the area Shaconage or land of blue smoke for its natural bluish haze—which is caused by organic compounds given off by the mountains’ abundant vegetation.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park holds UNESCO World Heritage status for its natural beauty and world importance. It’s also among the country’s most visited national parks, in part because it is easily accessible from major interstates and highways. In fact, half the population of the United States lives within a day’s drive from the park.

While getting to the Smokies is easy, here are eight other reasons to add this park to your must-see list:

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

1. Immense biodiversity

Great Smoky Mountains is the most biologically diverse national park in the United States—no other park matches its number and variety of animals, plants, fungi, and other organisms. That’s because this land became a refuge for species displaced during the last ice age.

Its valleys and peaks range in elevation from about 875 feet to more than 6,600, creating safe habitats throughout the park for plants and animals we might consider common only to northern or southern regions of North America.

Abundant rainfall and high summertime humidity create a temperate climate in which species thrive—including 100 species of native trees, over 1,500 flowering plants, more than 200 types of birds, and over 9,000 species of insects.

About 80 types of reptiles and amphibians live here. The park is known as the Salamander Capital of the World for its 30 identified species—from the 2-inch lungless salamander to foot-long hellbender.

The nonprofit Discover Life in America, an official park partner, is conducting a massive effort to catalog every species living in the Great Smoky Mountains. Since 1998, the group has tallied more than 21,000 species including more than 1,000 that are new to science. Scientists believe there may be as many as 80,000-100,000 living species overall. Citizen science plays an important role in the project, giving the public opportunities to participate in research.

Clingmans Dome, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

2. Stunning scenery

Geologists believe the Smokies were once as tall as the Rocky Mountains but wind, water, and time have worn them down to the sloping peaks and broad valleys we see today. About two inches of rock erode every thousand years. Forests of hardwoods and evergreens cover these mountains with different tree species growing at different elevations.

At Clingmans Dome, the park’s highest point at 6,643 feet, visitors can take in this stunning scenery from an observation deck. The 360-degree view extends over 100 miles on a clear day but sometimes can be limited to around 20 miles.

Mountain views can also be seen throughout the park whether visitors tour by car or on foot. With 150 official trails in the park, hikers can find vistas at many points along their way. An 11-mile, one-way loop road circles Cades Cove and is open for bicycle and foot traffic only each Wednesday from May through September. A drive over Newfound Gap Road compares to a trip from Georgia to Maine in terms of the varying forest ecosystems to see. Auto tours also can be taken along Foothills Parkway and through Cataloochee Valley.

Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

3. Bears! And plenty of other wildlife

About 1,900 black bears live in the Great Smoky Mountains, one of the largest protected areas in the eastern United States where the bears can live in wild, natural surroundings. These Great Smoky icons along with deer, turkeys, groundhogs, and other wildlife can often be seen in the open fields in Cades Cove and Cataloochee Valley during the morning and evening.

Among the spruce and fir forests on the park’s high-elevation ridges, you might spot the endangered Northern flying Squirrel, saw-whet owl, red crossbill, Blackburnian warbler, and other creatures.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In all, about 65 species of mammals and 50 native species of fish reside in the park. Before the park’s establishment in 1934, a number of native animals—such as bison, elk, mountain lion, gray and red wolves, river otter, Peregrine falcon, and several species of fish—were eradicated by hunters and trappers, among other reasons. Today, the National Park Service works to preserve native species in a condition similar to what existed before the presence of modern humans.

Some species have been reintroduced such as elk in 2001 after a 200-year absence as well as river otter and peregrine falcon.

To reduce the likelihood of vehicles colliding with wildlife on Interstate 40 in North Carolina, a series of wildlife-safe passages have been constructed. These overpasses and underpasses help animals move safely between the park and national forests as they search for mates, food, and habitat.

Replica of Cherokee Village, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

4. The ancestral home of the Cherokee

The Cherokee Nation once inhabited what now makes up the southeastern United States. Members lived in a matriarchal society of small communities. Among their hunting grounds were the mountains and valleys now part of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

In the 1700s, settlers encroached on Cherokee territory spreading disease, prompting conflict, and pressuring the Tribe to relinquish their land. Some Cherokee chose to migrate westward before President Andrew Jackson began their forced removal.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From the edge of what’s now the national park, the U.S. government placed the Cherokee in stockades and confiscated their homes and possessions. In 1838, nearly 14,000 Native Americans were forced to move to Oklahoma and Arkansas—a deadly, six-month walk that became known as the Trail of Tears. More than 4,000 Cherokee died en route from cold, hunger, and disease.

A small group, the Oconaluftee Cherokees were allowed to stay. Others hid deep in the mountains to avoid relocation. Together, they formed the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Indians which has about 15,000 members today. Many of them live in a 57,000-acre reservation known as the Qualla Boundary which borders the park. The Museum of the Cherokee Indian and Oconaluftee Indian Village tell the Cherokee story and are located just outside the park in Cherokee, North Carolina.

The Tribe is currently seeking to rename the park’s Clingmans Dome to Kuwohi which translates to the Mulberry Place.

Cades Cove, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

5. Remains of settler villages

For a century before the establishment of Great Smoky Mountain National Park, European settlers lived on land that had been the home of the Cherokee. Visitors can explore remnants of settler villages in Cades Cove on the western end of the park and Cataloochee Valley on the eastern end.

In Cades Cove, families used the rich and fertile land to grow corn. They built log homes, barns, churches, and schools. As many as 685 people lived here in 1850. Neighbors assisted one another and turned seasonal chores into community events: corn husking, molasses making, and gathering of chestnuts. The National Park Service has restored several cabins and barns so Cades Cove looks as it did in the early settler days.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

In Cataloochee Valley, visitors can get a glimpse into mountain life at the turn of the 20th century. About 1,200 people lived here in 1910 and based their economy on farming, commercial apple growing, and an early tourism industry. Historical buildings can be seen from the main road or by hiking a couple of miles: a school, churches, a barn, and a few homes.

This year, the park completed a renovation of the Walker sisters’ two-story cabin. The women refused to leave their farm when the park was created so the government granted them a lifetime lease. The cabin dates to the 1800s and the sisters lived there until 1964.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

6. The ghost town of Elkmont

In the early 1900s, Elkmont was a logging and railroad town of more than 1,500 people. It was built by the Little River Lumber Company and Railroad which owned almost 80,000 acres of what is now the national park. In addition to laborers, the railroad and town attracted wealthy vacationers and social clubs. Elkmont Campground now occupies part of this area.

The ghost town moniker developed in the 1990s after numerous resort cabins from Elkmont’s heyday were abandoned. When the government established the park residents were given the choice of selling their homes at full value or selling to the Park Service at a reduced price in return for a lifetime lease. Many chose leases, most of which expired in 1992. The Park Service was left with dozens of empty buildings it could not maintain.

The Park Service demolished some buildings preserved others and opened them to the public. Among them is the 3,000-square-foot Appalachian Clubhouse which can be rented for events.

Something else worthwhile to see at Elkmont: fireflies. Elkmont is one of the best places in the world to view these lightning bugs each June.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

7. Lodging at 6,400 feet

No roads lead to LeConte Lodge at the base of Mount LeConte so this backcountry accommodation requires a hike. Reservations must be made well in advance.

Mount LeConte is Great Smoky Mountains’ third-highest peak at 6,593 feet. Five trails—ranging in length from 5 to 9 miles—will get you to LeConte Lodge which is under Park Service jurisdiction. If you take the Trillium Gap Trail you might see the lodge’s pack llamas carrying the latest delivery of provisions.

LeConte Lodge sits at nearly 6,400 feet and is considered the highest guest lodge in the eastern United States. It operates generally from mid-March through mid-November and is the only in-park lodging. Other lodging can be found in the park’s gateway communities.

The lodge predates the park. LeConte Lodge began as a tent camp in 1926 for visiting dignitaries from the nation’s capital when plans began to create Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Sugarlands Visitor Center, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

8. Free entrance

Unlike many national parks, Great Smoky Mountains has no entrance fee. However, a parking tag is required for each vehicle—with prices set at $5 for a day, $15 for a week, and $40 for the whole year. Parking tags are not required for motorists passing through the area or who park for fewer than 15 minutes.

The Park Service added this modest charge in March 2023 because the park has been operating on an inadequate budget for years while experiencing an increasing number of visitors.

Gatlinburg © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Parking tags can be purchased online or in person at locations near the park’s three main entrances: Gatlinburg and Townsend, Tennessee, and Cherokee, North Carolina.

I hope this article piqued your curiosity and motivated you to pack up the RV and roll on over to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Newfound Gap Road, Great Smoky Mountains National Park © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

One final remark: Unless you stay for a month, do not try to do it all. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is HUGE covering 522,427 acres. In visiting, I can say that once is not nearly enough.

Wait. What?! I’ve posted other articles on the Smokies:

Worth Pondering…

Each year thousands of backpackers 
Climb the Great Smoky Mountains… 
Nature’s Peace flows into them
as Sunshine flows into Trees;
the Winds blow their freshness into them…
and their Cares drop off like Autumn Leaves.

—Adapted from John Muir

Chattanooga: A Little City That’s Big on Outdoor Adventure

Chattanooga is a premier outdoor destination

Located at the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains along the beautiful Tennessee River, Chattanooga is one of America’s most spectacular cities. The so-called “Scenic City” offers stunning natural landscapes including Ruby Falls, the largest underground waterfall in the US, and Rock City, a mountaintop vista dotted with massive, ancient rock formations and over 400 native plant species.

The city was a major railway hub throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, hence the Chattanooga Choo-Choo which was originally a reference to the Cincinnati Southern Railroad’s passenger service from Cincinnati to Chattanooga and later the title of a 1941 Glen Miller tune. The walkable downtown is a maze of historic stone and brick buildings featuring gourmet kitchens, craft breweries, and distilleries. It’s easy to love the ‘Noog!

Chattanooga and the Tennessee River © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Chattanooga is one of the country’s premier outdoor destinations starting with the hiking trails that are just a stone’s throw away from downtown. If you want an urban hike that leads you to unique city views and doesn’t require a walking pole, check out Stringers Ridge, 92-acre park located 2 miles from downtown Chattanooga. Okay fine…you can still bring a walking stick if you really want to. The highlight for hikers is the view from the observation deck.

This particularly postcard worthy ridge-top view can be reached by accessing the Cherokee Trail (a double-track path that used to be an old road traversing the ridge). It’s a great spot to snap a photo, hang out for a while with a book in hand, or catch a sunrise or sunset. Though Sunset Rock at Lookout Mountain might offer a higher vantage point, the view from Stringers easily offers a better view of the actual downtown district and provides an “outside-looking-in” kind of experience where you can see cars driving over the bridges but barely hear their motors’ roar.

Lookout Mountain © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The hike from Lookout Mountain’s historic Cravens House to Sunset Rock is another option when seeking a Chattanooga hiking experience. One of the best things about Cravens House is that it serves as a gateway to a number of Lookout’s greatest trails. From it, hikers and trail runners can string together a route that suits whatever mood they’re feeling on a given day—whether it’s a 4-mile loop with a major climb up the burly Gum Springs Trail, a less strenuous 4.5-mile loop that works its way up to Point Park before zig-zagging down the front of the mountain or even a 10-mile loop that links together seven of Lookout Mountain’s trails to create one of the crown jewel trail running experiences in the city.

>> Related article: The Chattanooga Choo-Choo, More Than a Hotel

The most straightforward route you can choose is the 1.5-mile (3-mile round trip) hike to Sunset Rock offering the best seat in the house to…yep, you guessed it—the sunset.

Lookout Mountain Incline Railway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Winding wooded lanes, dazzling panoramas, and a labyrinth of diverse trails make Signal Mountain a nature lover’s heaven. Just a 20-minute drive from downtown Chattanooga, Signal Mountain offers unlimited outdoor adventures and views that stretch on for miles. While even a drive around the densely forested mountain town is a more-than-satisfying way to spend an afternoon, taking a stroll (long or short) on some of Signal’s beautiful trails is the best way to experience its wide variety of spectacular natural offerings.

If you’re looking for a trail with views that make you stop and ponder the meaning of life, you need to hike the 5.1-mile out and back trail at Signal Point. You can even stop for a swim in Rainbow Lake but don’t expect a lake filled with rainbows. The lake features a dam built in 1916 that creates a short but powerful waterfall and a swinging bridge that spans the creek. You can terminate your hike here or opt to take a two-mile tour around the lake.

Lookout Mountain © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Descend 260 feet by elevator into Lookout Mountain and hike the cavern trail on a guided tour to Ruby Falls, the tallest and deepest cave waterfall open to the public in the United States. Visitors can also opt for an after-hours tour guided by the glow of hand-held lanterns. Outside the cavern, visitors are invited to soar through the treetops on 700 feet of zipline at Ruby Falls’ High Point ZIP Adventure.

Set off on a self-guided tour through Rock City Gardens for a bird’s eye view from high atop Lookout Mountain. Climb the wall at Lover’s Leap where you can “See Seven States.” Kids will enjoy a visit to Fairyland Caverns, natural caves that have been transformed into blacklight dioramas of classic fairy tales. 

Chattanooga Choo-Choo © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Chattanooga has long been famous as a transportation hub―this is the city, after all, made famous when Glenn Miller and His Orchestra wrote The Chattanooga Choo Choo about the city’s train station for the 1941 movie musical Sun Valley Serenade. 

But even though the Choo Choo is now a hotel and hasn’t hosted a locomotive in decades, Chattanooga is still an easy-to-access travel destination thanks to its expanding airport and its location at the crossroads of several state and federal highways. 

Chattanooga Choo-Choo © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Indeed, Chattanooga was the headquarters of one of the early auto clubs dedicated to building one of the country’s first Interstates―the historic Dixie Highway which ran from Chicago to Miami. It’s still easy to get around by car but the free electric shuttles that connect Chattanooga’s busiest tourist districts as well as a slowly expanding bus network makes public transit a snap.

Chattanooga is right on the Georgia border, two hours from Atlanta as well as Nashville, Knoxville, and Birmingham―and it’s at the intersection of Interstates 75, 24, and 59 as well as US Route 27, and State Routes 153 and 319 (known locally as DuPont Parkway).

Lookout Mountain Incline Railway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Sitting astride the Tennessee River and wedged within the hilltops of the Cumberland Plateau, Chattanooga is one of the South’s prettiest cities. And thanks to its ultra-fast public internet, the so-called Gig City has become a tech hub supporting a bustling community of startups, software companies, and venture capital firms. Combine that with the down-to-earth charisma of the region’s top rock climbing, cycling, and hiking activities and you have one of the most interesting destinations in the South.

>> Related article: Death Knell of the Confederacy: Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park

You don’t have to break the bank, either, to get a little taste of everything Chattanooga has on deck. From public sculpture gardens to city parks, from historic sites to quirky craft markets, there’s a lot you can do in the Scenic City for free.

Sugar’s Ribs BBQ, Chattanooga © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Nestled in a curve of the wide and winding Tennessee River, Chattanooga lies between the misty Appalachian Mountains and the lushly forested Cumberland Plateau. With such a stunning natural location, it shouldn’t be a surprise that this small city has become a major hot spot for outdoor and adventure-minded visitors.

Worth Pondering…

Chattanooga Choo Choo

Hi there Tex, what you say
Step aside partner, it’s my day
Bend an ear and listen to my version
Of a really solid Tennessee excursion

Pardon me, boy
Is that the Chattanooga choo choo? (yes yes)
Track twenty-nine
Boy, you can gimme a shine
Can you afford To board a Chattanooga choo choo
Then you know that Tennessee is not very far
Shovel all the coal in
Gotta keep it rollin’
Woo, woo, Chattanooga there you are

—Songwriters Mack Gordon and Harry Warren, first recorded 1941 by Glenn Miller