Backyard Birds

Step outside and a hidden world comes to life—one filled with color, song, and quiet drama just beyond your door. In Backyard Birds, Sandra Vogel invites you to slow down and discover the beauty waiting in your own backyard.

Editor’s Note: As well as being my daughter, Sandra Vogel is a writer and former community newspaper editor. Also a nature lover and avid gardener, she spends as much time outdoors and in natural settings with her husband and two dogs as possible—including in the mountains near where she lives— enjoying camping, hiking, photography, native plant identification and motorcycling. When not outdoors, she also enjoys “upcycling”—turning unwanted clothing into wearable art. How does that sound? (Is “plant identification” a thing? I mean, is there a different term for it that’s somewhere between botanist and “plant-er” … which could be the vegetation equivalent of bird-er but probably isn’t?)

I’ll start this with a confession: My surname means bird in both German and Dutch but best not to think of me as a “birder,” at least not in the way most people use the term. I don’t check off birds I’ve seen on a master list, I don’t travel with the intention of seeking out a specific species and I can’t focus a pair of binoculars on a bird-like object high up in a tree to save my life.

You could confidently call me a nature watcher though. And birds, with their often colourful plumage and distinct voices, are typically one of the most obvious animals in a natural area. Plus, they often spend a lot of time in trees, which I love enthusiastically and will hug at random. (Though I’m not a tree hugger in the way most people use the term either.)

For the past 30 years, I’ve lived in two different valleys in southern British Columbia—first the Okanagan Valley and now the Creston Valley—both crucial to numerous migratory birds as they journey between their breeding grounds in western Canada and wintering areas in the US, Central and South America. This route, the Pacific Flyway, is one of four major migratory bird routes, stretching from the Arctic southward to Patagonia, Argentina and Chile.

As a result, we host plenty of visiting bird species such as the Tundra swan, Calliope hummingbird, and barn swallow. But there are also numerous full-timers thanks to our milder-than-is-typically-Canadian winters. Black capped chickadees, downy woodpeckers, nuthatches, ospreys, bald eagles, and wild turkeys are just a few of the bird species that stick around all year

As a result, I don’t have to travel far to see a plethora of different birds. In fact, since I live in the country with a backyard full of coniferous trees and keep a fully stocked bird feeder, I don’t even have to leave my yard.

So let’s start small from the back door and work our way up, shall we?

Purple finch © Sandra Vogel, all rights reserved

Calliope Hummingbird – tiniest bird, best living arrangement

Calliope hummingbirds are the smallest native bird species in North America and one of my favourites. Weighing in at just two or three grams—the merest fraction of an ounce—they can be remarkably feisty for their size, sometimes even chasing the larger Anna’s and Rufous off the feeders in spring. These tiny winged wonders and their Napoleon complexes arrive in late April, raise their young and head back to central or southwestern Mexico—a distance of over 2,000 miles—usually in late September. If that’s not the perfect living arrangement—not to mention and incredible journey for one so small—I don’t know what is!

But in the meantime, they’re frequent visitors to my hummingbird feeders. In fact, if I don’t have the feeders filled when they arrive, a scout will inevitably find me in the garden and hover right in front of my face in what I assume is an (almost) silent request for me to rectify the situation. The same thing happens if I accidentally let the feeders run dry. 

But by mid-summer, the Calliopes seem to abandon the feeder to the larger hummingbirds and spend much of the day flying between the flowering marshmallow and comfrey plants in my medicinal herb garden and the mature spruce trees across the road. I’d wager there’s a tiny, well-hidden nest over there whose wee tenants are keeping their parents busy all day. You’ve got to respect a parent that chooses to raise young on natural food rather than fast food!

Once the young fledge, one of their first stops is the scarlet runner beans planted on the trellis that shades my back deck from the hot southern sunshine. For a week or two, I’ll regularly see a trainee Calliope trying to work out how to aim its long bill into a bright red flower that’s in constant motion thanks to a summer breeze.

Red Breasted Nuthatch

One of the prettiest tiny birds going with their striped black and white heads, grey-blue back, and tail feathers and rusty-orange bellies, red breasted nuthatches are busy, single-minded birds during breeding season. They’ll dart into the feeder in between the sparrows and chickadees, grab a seed and return to their nests dozens of times in a row. 

As is the case with chickadees, I’m particularly keen to attract nuthatches because they also eat bugs. So we hang the feeders in the apple trees hoping they’ll help reduce the number of pests that prey on our crop. 

Two years ago, a nuthatch built a nest in one of the apple trees. I discovered it while thinning the fruit. Despite my surprised face appearing about two feet away and right at eye level, she refused to leave the nest, giving me what I can only describe as “the beady eyeball.” I wished her and her family well and left her alone for the rest of the season. Hopefully she hatched a nest-full of equally active and attractive bug catchers! 

Black-capped Chickadee

In sharp contrast to the serious and territorial Calliope hummingbirds and the single-minded nuthatches, black-capped chickadees are like happy-go-lucky United Nations ambassadors. I’ll often see these year-round residents dining at the feeder alongside nuthatches, sparrows, and purple finches. In fact, outside of breeding season, they often form foraging flocks with other species. At the feeder they’ll dive in to grab a seed and fly to the nearest branch to pry it open, frequently stopping work to air their familiar chick-a-dee-dee-dee call. They seem to spend more time playing—fluttering from branch to branch with their buddies and chatting­—than actually getting down to the bird business of eating.

Though I’ve never managed to accomplish this because I’m hard pressed to stand still for long enough in my large garden, these are the birds you see eating out of people’s hands. They’re that friendly and not in the least shy. And there’s just something about them that makes you happy when you take the time to watch and listen to them.

Pine Siskin

These tiny seed seekers with their pretty yellow and brown striped plumage are frequent visitors. Once the young are introduced to the feeders, we often find them napping there among the seeds, head cocked to the side. In fact, sometimes they’re so sound asleep, we’re able to pet the top of a tiny head! Sound sleep doesn’t seem a viable survival strategy in a bird, yet there are pine siskin aplenty.

Downy woodpecker © Sandra Vogel, all rights reserved

Downy Woodpecker 

The smallest woodpecker in this area, the Downy woodpecker is perhaps the shiest birds to visit our yard. I love their colouring—white belly, black wings with white freckles and a small red prayer cap for the males—and how “downy” they are. It gives the mature birds a youthful, fresh-out-of-the-egg vibe. 

These are the acrobats of the woodpecker family, though the entire species does seem to manage their fair share of feats of upside down dangling.

A particularly cuddly-looking little specimen frequents one of our old apple trees year-round, no doubt keeping its bark free from whatever tiny insects were hoping to reside there indefinitely. If it notices me noticing it, this little guy will take a few steps around the trunk and out of sight. I’ll circle around to get a better view—or, please, please, a decent photo—and it will again step to the side out of view. Apparently one of us doesn’t have a garden to weed and can do this all day!  

Robin © Sandra Vogel, all rights reserved

Robin

Up until this year, I thought of robins as the harbinger of spring. But the robins hung around all through our mild winter, joining up into large flocks and consuming trees’ worth of berries despite how I’ve always thought of them as loners.

Between their oddly soldier-like wing position and their penchant for viewing the neighbourhood from the top of the tallest tree, a convenient fencepost, or one of our tall orchard sprinklers, robins are the sentinels of the bird community. And as the last to go silent in the evening, they’re obviously on duty until dark.

Robins build their untidy nests all around our property—from the eaves of the house to the maple trees out back. And once the young fledge, there are always several small squadrons of speckled sentinels-in-training patrolling the grass for insects. Their quick run then halt method of locating prey would distinguish them from other ground foraging birds even if their colouring didn’t.

Sharp-shinned Hawk

Early last spring a sharp-shinned hawk spent a half-hour or so in our backyard, likely hunting the small birds that frequent our feeder on its way to northern BC or Alaska for the summer. In a reversal of what we typically see with migratory birds, they over-winter here and leave us before the heat of summer. 

At between nine and 13 inches in length, “sharpies” as they’re often called, are the smallest hawk in North America and exhibit the most extreme sexual dimorphism of any raptor on the continent. The females are usually about one-third larger than the males. With their slate-grey backs and fine orange and white bars below, these are very attractive birds though those eyes do give them that somewhat formidable raptor stare!

Pileated woodpecker © Sandra Vogel, all rights reserved

Pileated Woodpecker

When you need a determined bird, look no further than the pileated woodpecker. These large Woody-woodpecker specimens seem to me to have the hardest job in the bird kingdom: hammering holes in unforgiving wood all day in order to eke out a bug or two. Sounds like a headache in the making! But apparently woodpeckers have built-in shock absorbers. Their long tongues reside in a structure called the hyoid apparatus—a Y-shaped system of bones and cartilage that runs from their beaks, curves up behind the skull and sometimes even loops around their eye sockets and over the cranial crest. This reduces impact on the brain during the high-speed pecking they have perfected.

I first met our pileated woodpecker while sitting in my living room in my favourite spot by the window. I was trying to read and it was trying to drill a hole from the outside in. While hanging from our cedar siding, the woodpecker stopped its work and stretched its neck over its right shoulder to get a better look at me. Having the feeling that I was being watched, I looked over my left shoulder and saw an upside down red head and beady black eyes staring at me. We looked at each other for a minute or two and then he slowly withdrew his head and got back to work. When my practical-minded husband asked if I’d shooed him off the house, I said “No, I went outside and took his picture.” 

Wild turkey © Sandra Vogel, all rights reserved

Wild Turkey 

Given that they hang out in the yard every day and benefit from not infrequent handfuls of the sunflower seeds meant for the bird feeder, I’m hard pressed to call the turkeys in our neighbourhood “wild” though indeed they are. 

Native to eastern North America, wild turkeys were introduced to the western United States as game birds and have continued to spread north. They weren’t present in my area of the Okanagan Valley but the Creston Valley is home to thousands of them. Here they substitute for the California quail that the Okanagan has aplenty.

If it wasn’t for their prehistoric looking heads and red to almost purple wattles, the opalescence of their brown barred feathers—which catch the light and change from purple to green—would make these birds quite attractive! Large at up to 25 pounds, they don’t spend a lot of time airborne, flying only to roost and when chased.

A large flock roosts in one of the huge spruce trees up the hill behind our house. And one morning I was awake at dawn—a rare occurrence—to see how their morning started. First one bird flew down and landed on the road, calling to the others who one or two at a time flew down to join it. Eventually there were 20 or more turkeys chattering away in front of the house before they went their separate ways in small groups to forage.

In winter, the turkeys often band together by the 20s or 30s and remain grouped through mating season before dividing up into family groups. In spring, the males spend a lot of their time strutting about with tails fanned out and feathers plumped, dragging their wing feathers on the ground, which makes a sound that can’t help but draw attention to them. We frequently see males chasing females around and around trees and later, females leading large clutches of fuzzy little chicks around the yard. 

As there’s a lot in this valley for wild turkeys to eat, they don’t seem to bother the fenced gardens much in summer. But the odd one will make its way over the fence and into our dogs’ bad books. Once notified by the dogs, I’ve run out into the garden in my housecoat and slippers to chase a turkey out of the garden first thing in the morning more than once! Left to their own devices, they can do a quick number on your tidy rows of potential produce—something they’re prone to do to the backyard kale in winter when forage is scarce. 

Beyond the backyard

Birds are the most diverse group of land vertebrates and I’ve only touched on a few of the species that visit my yard. Birds range in size from the tiniest of hummingbirds—Cuba’s bee hummingbird—to the ostrich, although the wandering albatross is said to be the largest flighted bird with a wingspan of up to 12 feet.

Whether large or small, in the back yard of further afield, birds represent a freedom that only taking to the sky and landing where and when you will can offer. For those of us restricted to a more land-locked existence, there’s something magical about that. And something equally special about bearing witness to the small part of their lives we glimpse by watching them. 

I may not be a “real” bird watcher, but I can confidently say that there’s a simple joy to be experienced by witnessing birds at work and play in one’s own back yard—a reminder that nature carries on in the real world doing what it’s always done regardless of what’s happening in the more complex, contrived world of humans. 

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in April 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.

Drive to Lexington for the Horses, Stay for the Bourbon and History

Hundreds of horse farms, countless distilleries, and so much more

When you think of Kentucky you might go straight to fried chicken or college sports—which, hey, aren’t bad things to associate with a state—but the Bluegrass State has so much more. And to see the very best it has to offer, you can take a trip to the heart of the state where the green grass has a blueish tint and locals know racehorses by name like they’re celebrities. We’re talking Lexington, Kentucky.

A trip to Lexington, Kentucky is just a three-hour scenic drive from Nashville and a little over an hour drive from Louisville. The city is dripping with Southern charm, packed with horse farms that are home to some of the most notable horse racing in the world, and brimming award-winning whiskey distilleries. It’s time to plan your RV trip to Lexington.

Keeneland © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

If you don’t do anything else: Hit the races… the horse races

Lexington, Kentucky is known as the horse capital of the world. Each year, thousands of people from all over the globe flock to the Bluegrass City to check out the more than 450 horse farms Kentucky is home to. Among those hundreds of horse farms one reign supreme with a name that is almost synonymous with Lexington: Keeneland.

Open and operating since 1936, Keeneland is the world’s largest thoroughbred auction house. It also hosts world-class racing twice a year in April and October (October 4-26, 2024). If you happen to be planning your Lexington trip during the spring or fall, snagging a ticket to one of Keeneland’s iconic races is fairly inexpensive and can serve as a fun opportunity to dress up in your best equestrian-chic gear.

If your trip to Lexington doesn’t fall during horse racing season, fear not. You can still visit and tour one of Lexington’s many renowned horse farms. From Claiborne Farms which is one of the most iconic thoroughbred horse farms in the world to Megson Farms which specializes in the unique breeding of rare white and multi-colored thoroughbreds, each establishment offers something a little different.

If tethering yourself to just one farm feels too limiting, local tour groups like Horse Farm Tours Inc. and Central Kentucky Tours can help you navigate the hundreds of horse farm tour options.

Fill your days

Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Bourbon distilleries in Lexington

Besides horses, Kentucky is known for its bourbon so this is the perfect time to try some of the best whiskey in the country. Lexington is home to award-winning and historic distilleries. Lexington Brewing & Distilling Co., James E. Pepper, and Barrel House Distilling Co. are all pretty close to Lexington’s city center and are easy to set up distillery tours with. If you’re looking for a bigger name establishment, Wild Turkey Distillery is about a 30 minute drive outside of the city.

The Wild Turkey Distillery tour reveals an intriguing combination of tradition and modern mass production. In the fermentation room, for example, 70-year-old cypress tanks stand next to modern stainless steel ones.

The tour begins and ends in the visitor center with a gift shop and tasting room. Inspired by the silhouette of Kentucky tobacco barns the visitor center has an unbeatable view of the Kentucky River and its bridge and unique railroad trestle (the turnaround point for the Bluegrass Scenic Railroad).

Kentucky River from Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Food tours in Lexington

For the history-lover or foodie in your travel group, booking a tour with Bites of the Bluegrass will be an essential part of your time in Lexington. The Bluegrass tours offer a fun and unique way to see the city through what’s essentially an afternoon dinner party. Bites of the Bluegrass offer food and history walking tours of downtown Lexington, Distillery District food and history tours, and so much more.

Things to do outdoors in Lexington

If you’re looking to round out your Lexington trip of horses, history, and Bourbon with just one more quintessentially Kentucky activity, visit one of the many farms within the Lexington city limits. The best of Lexington’s food culture focuses on farm-to-table, locally grown ingredients.

The historic Coleman Crest Farm uses both conventional farming and hydroponic freight container farming. The farm grows its produce with natural groundwater from a large prehistoric aquifer located on the farm so its produce is fully natural with no chemical additives or preservatives.

If you’re looking to get a little boozy with your farm tour, Silver Springs Farm is a farm winery that sits on 20 acres of land smack dab in the middle of horse country. Originally operated from 1867 until Prohibition of 1918, the farm used to run as Silver Springs Distillery. Today, the property is named Silver Springs Farm Eqwine and Vineyard after its historic springs, the racehorses they breed, and the wine from the grapes they grow. Doing a tasting and trying some of their award-winning wines is non-negotiable.

Horse farm near Lexington © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Where to eat and drink in Lexington

Eat your way through local restaurants at Greyline Station, a revitalized Greyhound station that now serves as a public marketplace. If you get to the station early stop by North Lime Coffee & Donuts for your morning cup. If lunch is your priority head to spots like Rise Up Pizza, Wing Kyng, and Old North Bar & Kitchen. And vegans and vegetarians can find plenty to chow down on at The Social Vegan.

If you’re really looking to go all out for dinner head to the newly opened boutique hotel The Manchester for fine Appalachian-inspired dishes at their restaurant Granddam. Located on the ground floor of the hotel just off the lobby Granddam gives dark leather mixed with bluegrass vibes and offers a menu packed with home-grown produce.

Luckily, traveling very far for after-dinner drinks won’t be necessary. Just take the elevator up to Lost Palm, the hotel’s 1960s South Florida-inspired rooftop bar where you can grab a flamboyant tiki cocktail.

Here are a few links to related articles I’ve previously posted on the Bourbon Trail:

Worth Pondering…

I take with me Kentucky

embedded in my brain and heart,

in my flesh and bone and blood

Since I am Kentucky

and Kentucky is part of me.

—Jesse Stuart

The Ultimate Guide to Kentucky Bourbon Trail

The craftsmanship and history behind America’s bourbon distilleries that reside along the bourbon trail

Good morning and Happy National Bourbon Day. Might as well use the occasion to clear up a few things about America’s classic spirit.

  • All bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon. For example, whiskey that’s made in Scotland is called scotch
  • Among other requirements, bourbon must be distilled from a mash that’s at least 51 percent corn along with malt and rye
  • Kentucky produces 95% of all bourbon

Got it?

The fact that bourbon distilleries give away free samples of their product on their distillery tours isn’t the only reason I visit these landmarks—it’s the history!

Kentucky is an often overlooked and beautiful tourist destination that offers way more than just bourbon. There are also thoroughbred horses, a ton of civil war historical landmarks, and renowned hiking and rock climbing destinations. But you’ve come here for one thing, to learn about the bourbon trail, so the bourbon trail we will cover.

Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail now consists of 18 whiskey distilleries. Some of them are new kids on the block and others have been around since bourbon’s inception. In fact, if you visit every distillery on the trail, you’ll probably hear more than one say it’s the oldest. This is because there are no definite records of how generic “whiskey” became bourbon. So distilleries are known to take liberties to be seen as the oldest and sell more bottles of bourbon at the end of their tours.

The bottom line is, if you’re a fan of bourbon, it doesn’t matter which distillery is the oldest. Each distillery on the bourbon trail (new or old) makes a fantastic product. Each one brings its own unique aspect to the buttery-brown spirit.

Whispering Hills RV Park at Georgetown © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Very few people visit every distillery on the trail since it encompasses nine different cities/towns—some 70 miles apart. I’ve mapped out a bourbon trail itinerary that includes the distilleries we’ve visited during our several visits to the Bluegrass State. This guide will help you choose the ones you want to visit the most. There are some important logistics to note before we get into our guide.

Home Base

It’s up to you where you stay during your trip but I suggest you set up camp near Louisville and Lexington. Being the two largest cities in Kentucky they provide the most options when it comes to campgrounds, food, outdoor recreation, and other non-bourbon-related offerings. Two excellent options for RV camping are Grandma’s RV Camping in Shepherdsville (20 miles south of Louisville) and Whistling Hills RV Park at Georgetown (20 miles north of Lexington). We’ve also stayed at My Old Kentucky Home State Park Campground in Bardstown.

Transportation

If you’re planning on trying the samples at the end of the distillery tours (and why would you not?), you’ll want to make sure you have a designated driver. Kentucky doesn’t mess around with driving drunk and the last thing you want is a DUI. Alternately, check out local tour companies with different bourbon trail tour packages.

Woodford Reserve © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Tours

When planning your trip, keep in mind that you don’t have to go on every tour that each distillery offers. In fact, to be able to get in as many distilleries as possible, I’d suggest you don’t. Each distillery tour takes about an hour. In peak season (spring/summer), they can take even longer due to the high volume of visitors and COVID protocol.

You can get a good idea of any distillery’s history by strolling the grounds open to visitors and visiting the gift shop. If you decide to use a tour company for transportation, they can tell you everything you need to know about each distillery. We suggest saving the tours (and saving money) for your favorite distilleries. Now, break out your favorite whiskey glass, pour your favorite bourbon, and you’re ready to learn about Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail.

Note: Many of the distilleries on the Bourbon Trail have limited tour schedules or have canceled tours altogether, due to the pandemic. Check each distillery’s website for tour availability and safety guidelines.

Jim Beam © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Home Base: Louisville (Shepherdsville)

Jim Beam

Leaving Shepherdsville and heading southeast to Bardstown your first stop is in Clermont at the home of one of the world’s most noted whiskeys—the Jim Beam American Stillhouse. Although it’s now owned by Japanese mega-conglomerate Suntory, the seven-generation family-owned company’s rich history is still evident. The Jim Beam name dates back to before Kentucky was even a state. Their German immigrant ancestors settled on the land to grow corn that would soon after be used to make their original-recipe whiskey. You would be remiss to pass up on one of its most influential brands.

Heaven Hill © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Heaven Hill

Continue your journey to historic Bardstown—the Bourbon Capital of the World and an Official Gateway to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Heaven Hill is the world’s largest family-owned spirits producer making brands such as Elijah Craig, Larceny, Henry McKenna, Fighting Cock, and Evan Williams. The Heaven Hill distillery has been family-owned and operated since 1935 making it fairly young for a distillery of its size. With some help from a notable Kentucky distilling family member, Earl Beam (Master-Distiller from 1946-1975), Heaven Hill got its operations off the ground. Heaven Hill produces more than 400,000 barrels annually and has won multiple world spirit awards. At the Heaven Hill Bourbon Heritage Center you can choose from their tour options and enjoy your samples in their barrel-shaped tasting room.

Wind down in Bardstown as you peruse the shops and start planning your nightcap destination. Take a stroll through the past at the newly renovated Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History. Don’t miss an opportunity to dine on classic Kentucky fare in the Old Talbott Tavern (fried green tomatoes is recommended), have a nightcap in the “world’s oldest Bourbon bar”, and even spend the night if you feel so inclined.

Barton 1792 © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Barton 1792

The sprawling Barton 1792 is an old-school distillery with an old-school charm. The tour is informal, the buildings unadorned. The distillery’s flagship brand pays tribute to the year Kentucky gained statehood. Rye recipe bourbon, 1792 is handcrafted in small batches, aged 8 years, and bottled at 93.7 Proof.

It is very high in rye, so it’s going to give you a lot of spicy flavor upfront. Buttery on your tongue and oh so smooth as it goes down the back of your throat. It has a long finish. Our glasses seemed to empty themselves. Can you tell it’s one of my favorite bourbons?

Willett Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Willett

We moved on to Willett Distillery, where Johnny Drum, Willett, Noah’s Mill, and other small-batch bourbons are made. Production here is 20 barrels a day, compared to Beam’s 5,000 or so. Entering the fermenting room, we noted seven uncovered 10,400-gallon tanks of bubbling brew—beer before liquor, literally.

Maker’s Mark © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Maker’s Mark

From Bardstown we headed 25 miles southeast to Lebanon and Maker’s Mark. Maker’s Mark is quite possibly one of the most recognizable whiskey brands in the world thanks to the six-generation Samuels family recipe and its distinctive wax seal on every bottle. On the tour, you’ll have the option of sealing your very own bottle in wax which is a unique experience you can’t find anywhere else. Trust me, it is great fun!

Four Roses © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Home Base: Lexington (Georgetown)

Four Roses

The beautiful Four Roses Lawrenceburg distillery reflects the story of the brand. The bourbon was named after founder Paul Jones Jr.’s romantic gesture of giving a four-rose corsage to his sweetheart before a ball in 1884. Now the distillery boasts gorgeous Spanish architecture and a mellow vibe.

Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Wild Turkey

After visiting the Four Roses facility, we headed to their neighbor, the ever-intriguing Wild Turkey, another distillery on the trail with a ton of heritage and family influence. Their main claim to fame is Jimmy Russell, the world’s most tenured master distiller. He’s been crafting bourbon for over 60 years. He now makes bourbon next to his son Eddie who has more than three decades of experience.

Academy Award-winning actor Matthew McConaughey joined Jimmy and Eddie Russell as Creative Director in 2016. The relationship very quickly turned into an opportunity to collaborate on both marketing campaigns and product development. This is most evident in Longbranch bourbon which carries McConaughey’s name and is refined with mesquite from the actor’s home state of Texas to form a unique flavor profile.

Buffalo Trace © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Buffalo Trace

It’s not clear why Buffalo Trace and Barton 1792 were pulled from the Kentucky Distillers Association (KDA) and thereby out of the bourbon trail in 2010. It’s likely because at the time they were Kentucky’s largest bourbon producer and didn’t want to pay the dues (more about that at the end).

A part of the bourbon trail or no, the Buffalo Trace distillery is considered a Mecca for bourbon lovers around the globe. The facilities are enormous and house a total of 19 brands of bourbon. If you can’t make their highly informative and still free tour simply strolling around the grounds and picking up a rare bottle of whiskey in the gift shop is worth it.

Woodford Reserve © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Woodford

If you’re looking for Kentucky majesty, you’ll be hard-pressed to find grounds more beautiful than those of the Woodford Reserve Distillery in Versailles. Woodford can claim that it is the “oldest” distillery in Kentucky because it’s been located in the same place since 1812. Other distilleries have moved their operations over the years. Because of this, Woodford Reserve is a national historic landmark.

Woodford holds special significance for me as being the first bourbon distillery visited and one of only two distilleries we have visited on two separate occasions, the other being Maker’s Mark.

How Does a Distillery Get Featured on the “Official” Bourbon Trail?

It’s not entirely clear how distilleries are selected to be featured on the bourbon trail. You probably already know that there are more than 18 distilleries in Kentucky. Currently, there are close to 100. For a distillery to be considered a part of the bourbon trail, they have to be recognized as a Kentucky Distillers Association (KDA) member. The KDA is a non-profit association established in 1953 to ensure that its members followed the best distilling practices.

Woodford Reserve Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Overall, 37 members of the Kentucky Distillers Association operate one or more distilleries in Kentucky. However, when it comes to who gets picked for the trail, it is probably left to closed-door KDA dealings.

Worth Pondering…

I love coffee in a cup, little fuzzy pups, bourbon in a glass, and grass.

―Tom T. Hall

Road Tripping in Bourbon Country

Everything you need to know about the ultimate U.S. liquor and where to learn more

America’s Native Spirit can be made anywhere in the U.S. and still be called bourbon but some 90 percent is Kentuckian. In the Bluegrass State, there are, as every tour guide says, more bourbon barrels aging (nearly 5 million) than residents (4.5 million).

In 2012, the Kentucky Distillers Association launched the Bourbon Trail Craft Tour. It’s essentially a map of seven micro-distilleries to complement a similarly self-guided tour of seven larger ones. Each has its own passport. Fill with stamps for a free T-shirt. That achievement briefly intrigued. Assessing geography and open hours, however, led us to five, plus one not on the sanctioned trail.

Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Per federal law, bourbon is whiskey consisting of at least 51 percent corn produced at each stage within a range of proofs (too high or low and you’re back to whiskey) aged in new (one-time use only) white oak barrels. Throughout the trail, you’ll hear about Kentucky’s mineral-rich limestone water but there’s no bourbon without a barrel.

A barrel is really an ingredient. Without it, you’d be drinking White Dog, the clear grain distillate (aka moonshine) that enters a barrel. What exits is brown (darkest when aged longest) and hopefully multidimensional. Whiskey is pretty simple. It’s a function of recipe, barrel, warehouse, and time.

Pappy Van Winkle’s Family Reserve bourbons are made in limited quantity at Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, along with other lauded labels—Blanton’s, Eagle Rare, E.H. Taylor, George T. Stagg. They’re not pouring or selling anything Van Winkle there, but following a walk through the park-like property’s architectural timeline of two centuries of distilling, you can sip up to three ½-oz tastes of other products including the distillery’s namesake.

Tasting laws are strict. Fortunately, these counties are now wet; Woodbridge was dry on our first visit over a decade ago. They’re also flowing with another type of spirit.

Jim Beam American Stillhouse © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Prior to our first trip to Bourbon Country I had heard of Jim Beam, and little else. Fittingly, Jim Beam’s Fred Noe, the company’s seventh-generation Master Distiller is the great-grandson of Jim who protected their yeast (think sourdough bread starter) by driving it back and forth to work in a jug. They’ve used that same strain since 1935. You can see the jug on the tour at the company’s American Stillhouse in Clermont, under padlock.

We’ve also been to Maker’s Mark (actually, twice), the first distillery to reach out to visitors. At the time, people said ‘what the heck are you doing’ when they put a lot of money out just for show. That’s what people did for horses, not bourbon. But every year they sold everything they made and the rest of the industry took notice.

We moved on to Willett Distillery, where Johnny Drum, Willett, Noah’s Mill, and other small-batch bourbons are made. Production here is 20 barrels a day, compared to Beam’s 5,000 or so. Entering the fermenting room, we noted seven uncovered 10,400-gallon tanks of bubbling brew—beer before liquor, literally.

Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

At Wild Turkey, we meet Jimmy, legendary Master Distiller, more than 60 years in. Similar to our other tours, we enter a massive, unfriendly-looking warehouse (think prison or horror film), holding some 20,000 barrels. These “rack houses” can have a 50-degree temperature variance between top and bottom floors. That’s part of the mystique of bourbon: Most warehouses are heated and cooled by nature’s whims, resulting in barrels of differing nature. The challenge is to blend and create a consistent taste.

Reaching for a visible wet spot on a barrel our guide says, “Leaks prove bourbon is getting into the most porous parts of the wood. That’s how you get the syrupy goodness.” As the weather changes and the wood expands and contracts, the bourbon flows in and out. Mostly it stays in. The greatest amount of loss is attributed to evaporation and referred to as Angel’s Share.

Bourbon needs to be in the barrel for two years to be bourbon, but most are aged for six or more. At a loss rate of about 5 percent a year. No wonder ghosts linger about. You get your share too when you enter. It’s delicious.

Woodford Reserve Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

At Woodford Reserve, where you’re most reminded you’re in thoroughbred territory—gigantic, fenced, hilly, and grassy farms surround the picturesque national landmark—the warehouses are temperature-controlled, a somewhat controversial modernization. Buffalo Trace has some of these, too.

Some 20 years ago, Brown-Forman renovated the vacant buildings and started mixing up what’s now the world’s only triple-distilled bourbon. Everyone else does two. Woodford emphasizes the harmony of five areas of flavor: sweet aromatics, fruit and floral, spice, wood, and grain.

The best Kentucky bourbon country trip includes both large and small distilleries. Visit four and you’ll return home with an understanding of the product, the process, and the history. And you’ll have taste, but not a full glass. There are no bars on any property.

It’s essential to remember that open hours are limited—and that Covid-19 is impacting travel and tourism—3 p.m. is the last tour most everywhere. Sundays don’t start until 1 p.m. Some distilleries are neighbors; many are a good hour apart. Choose your favorite label, and work around it.

Maker’s Mark Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Our trail was more or less a 200-mile oval between Shepherdsville (20 miles south of Louisville) and Lexington. We used two RV parks for our home base: Grandma’s RV Camping in Shepherdsville and Whispering Hills RV Park north of Georgetown (20 miles north of Lexington).

Worth Pondering…

Let dreamers whine

Of the pleasures of wine

For lovers of soft delight

But this is the song

Of a tipple that’s strong

For men who must toil and fight.

Now the drink of luck

For the man full of pluck

Is easy to nominate

It’s the good old whiskey of old Kentuck

And you always drink it straight… 

―The Ballad of Whiskey Straight, a 19th-century Kentucky poem

Discovering the Joys of Kentucky Bourbon

Each distillery along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail has a unique story to tell

Bourbon is big.

Along with Willie Nelson and his country music classic, “On the road again. Just can’t wait to get on the road again…” we headed southeast to the Kentucky Bourbon Trail.

Barton 1792 Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Stretching from Louisville to Lexington, then southwest along the Bluegrass Parkway, the trail is a trademarked destination made up of nine member distilleries. Over several days, we toured four of the chosen nine and then veered off to a new craft distillery. Like the four that are featured here, each had a unique story to tell, interlaced with a rich history and distinctive style.

Bourbon “distinctive,” you say? Heck yes. While once considered the drink of the common man, bourbon’s status has swelled in recent years, as sales have surged. Production has exceeded 1 million barrels annually for the past five years, driven by the demand of younger customers and an appreciation of small-batch and single-barrel bourbons, the premium equivalents of a single-malt scotch.

Buffalo Trace Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

For the uninitiated, a primer: All bourbons are whiskey, but not all whiskeys are bourbon. There are stringent regulations, set by Congress in 1964, that make bourbon exclusive within the spirits world. To be labeled a bourbon, it must be made in the United States using a grain mixture that’s at least 51 percent corn; it must be aged in new, charred oak barrels at no more than 125 proof (62.5 percent alcohol); and it must be bottled at 80 proof or more.

Rolling through verdant hills, Kentucky is a blend of genteel traditions—Churchill Downs, mint juleps, the stately white fences that frame the horse farms—and pure Americana: Louisville Slugger, Muhammad Ali Center, and Bill Monroe.

Barton 1792, Bardstown

In a sleepy valley in Bardstown lies the sprawling Barton 1792, an old school distillery with an old school charm. The tour is informal, the buildings unadorned.

Barton 1792 Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The distillery’s flagship brand pays tribute to the year Kentucky gained statehood. Rye recipe bourbon, 1792 is handcrafted in small batches, aged 8 years, and bottled at 93.7 proof. It is very high in rye, so it’s going to give you a lot of spicy flavor upfront. Buttery on your tongue and so smooth as it goes down the back of your throat. It has a long finish. Our glasses seemed to empty themselves.

Maker’s Mark Distillery, Loretto

Maker’s Mark Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

From Bardstown, we headed down the winding roads to the home of Maker’s Mark Distillery a National Historic Landmark nestled in the rolling hills of Marion County. Any bourbon tour would be incomplete without a stop at Maker’s Mark who has been producing its bourbon whiskey (they spell it “whisky” in honor of the company’s Scottish roots) since 1840.

There are plenty of signs along the way to get you there in time to dip your own souvenir bottle in their signature red wax.

Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort

Buffalo Trace Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Buildings from 1881 still stand, used in the production of brands such as Blanton, Stagg Jr. and Van Winkle, whose rare 23-year-old bourbon, Pappy Van Winkle, fetches more than $1,000 a bottle.

Founded in the late 1700s, Buffalo Trace claims to be the oldest U.S. distillery that has continuously produced bourbon. The reason being, during Prohibition (1920 to 1933), it was one of six distilleries licensed by the federal government to sell whiskey for “medicinal purposes.”

“A person could get a prescription from his doctor and receive 2 quarts per month,” says our tour guide.” And when Prohibition was canceled, Kentucky was the healthiest state in the Union.

Wild Turkey Distillery, Lawrenceburg

Wild Turkey Distillery © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The Wild Turkey Distillery tour reveals an intriguing combination of tradition and modern mass production. In the fermentation room, for example, 70-year-old cypress tanks stand next to modern stainless steel ones.

Our visit began and ended in the new visitor center with a gift shop and tasting room. Inspired by the silhouette of Kentucky tobacco barns , the two-year-old visitor center has an unbeatable view of the Kentucky River and its bridge and unique railroad trestle (the turnaround point for the Bluegrass Scenic Railroad).

We’ll be back. Our well-practiced taste buds will demand it.

Worth Pondering…

I take with me Kentucky

embedded in my brain and heart,

in my flesh and bone and blood

Since I am Kentucky

and Kentucky is part of me.

—Jesse Stuart