It’s that time of year—the kids are back in school, the grapes are coming off the vines.
Fall in Okanagan Wine Country is a gift. The region’s naturally relaxed pace, vibrant foliage, sunny and warm weather, verdant vineyards, and brightly colored roadside stands selling everything from freshly picked fruits and vegetables to ice cream cones and samosas are hallmarks of the fall harvest season,
The unofficial start to fall began last week. Finally, with the kids back in school and many more returning to the workplace in person, Okanagan Wine Country should revert to its much calmer, more rural roots and that’s good news for the many who have been avoiding the crowds and the travails of travel.
Shorter lines, less hustle and bustle, and fewer highway travelers make the fall a prime season to visit wine country. Best of all, the fall provides the chance to experience the 2022 harvest or crush in person.
Despite a cool, wet spring and harsh cold winter, the warm summer weather across the province has buoyed hopes for a quality harvest although yields or quantities are expected to be below average.
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If it is not already underway, harvest at sparkling wine producers is moments from kickoff. A two-step fermentation method is required to make traditional sparkling wine—one inside the winery, the other inside the bottle and it all requires a high-acid base obtained from early-picked grapes to commence. After that, phenolic-ripe grapes will flood wineries and “crush” as it is better known today will be full-on for the next two and half months across British Columbia Wine Country.
First up in a long line of grapes to be picked will be Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris from the warmest sites. The timing of each pick is a fascinating study in terroir and the interaction of winegrowers. It lasts for at least two months, if not lengthier, ending in early to late November with the picking of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Riesling from the coolest sites.
The dance begins in the vineyards. Winemakers and viticulturists walk between the rows of vines daily to taste and assess the ripeness of the crop. Then, the grapes are analyzed in a laboratory but only to confirm what has already been physically tasted. In days gone by, the decision to pick meant the entire vineyard. Today it could be a row, one side of a row, or a designated block. In some cases, the pickers could pass through a vineyard block two or three times over a two or three-week period seeking different acidity and sugar levels to add complexity to the final blend.
Over the next 10 weeks, the grapes will slowly disappear from vineyards across the province mainly during early morning picks when the bunches are cold and the acidity is freshest. With vineyards scores of miles apart there is no easy way to know when the Merlot or the Chardonnay will show up at the winery. The best winemakers can hope for is an orderly procession of grapes allowing enough time to flip tanks and vats between varieties and carry on.
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As a visitor, you’ll know if the harvest is on by the smell of fermenting grapes in the air. However, if you are up early enough, you could witness people and machines picking grapes in vineyards all over the valley. While most wineries are not equipped to accept large numbers of visitors during the harvest, some will invite you to experience the crush up close. Crush pad activities can be a lot of fun to observe but be sure to be on your best behavior and stay out of the crew’s way. Unlike most jobs, they only get one chance a year to make wine so the pressure is on to get it right.
If you want to play along and you find yourself in a vineyard over the next month, carefully select some individual berries to taste. Remember to pick fruit from the sunny and shady sides of the row. Next, taste for the sugar/acid balance, chew the skins to assess the tannins, and inspect the pips for color to see how ripe or brown they are.
Now breathe in and decide to call the pick. Is it yes, or is it no? No pressure but everything depends on you being right.
The fall harvest is a wonderful time to plan a visit to Okanagan Wine Country. Not only is the breath-taking scenery even more stunning but it’s the most lively time of the winemaking year.
Twenty-five years ago, visitors traveled to the Okanagan for the boating, the golfing, and the sunshine along the lake’s many beaches. Today, they also come for wine that can be savored only in these 155 miles of a narrow valley with its ancient soils, shimmering lakes, and youthful exuberance.
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It’s a very precious region…especially in the fall.
Worth Pondering…
Let us celebrate the occasion with wine and sweet words,
―Plautus