Written by Rex Vogel, RVing with Rex explores North America one meaningful place at a time through destination guides, history, slow travel, and thoughtful storytelling. Drawing on years of RV travel and firsthand experience, the site helps readers move beyond simply seeing places to truly experiencing them.
Parke County, Indiana, is more than its famous covered bridges. Discover scenic backroads, working farms, Amish buggies, Raccoon Lake, and the pleasures of exploring by RV.
Some places are defined by a single attraction. Others reveal themselves slowly, one mile at a time.
For RV travelers, discovery begins with finding a place to call home for a few days. Once the RV is settled, the roads beyond the campground become an invitation to explore.
That is how we experienced Parke County, Indiana. From our campground, we left the motorhome behind and followed quiet roads by toad, discovering a landscape where farms still define the horizon, buggies share the road and historic bridges appear as reminders of the past.
The covered bridges may draw visitors to Parke County but the real story is found in the roads between them.
When traveling with a large RV, the first step in discovering a new area is finding the right basecamp. We don’t simply arrive, unplug, and move on the next morning. A comfortable campground becomes our home while we explore everything beyond it.
For our visit to Parke County, we stayed at Terre Haute Campground. Located near I-70, it provided the convenience and amenities we appreciate when traveling with a larger motorhome including spacious sites, full hookups, and the practical comforts that make an extended stay easier.
Once the RV was settled, the real adventure could begin. The motorhome became our home base, the toad became our exploring vehicle, and the roads of Parke County became an invitation to discover what was waiting beyond the campground.
With our motorhome settled at the campground, we set out to discover Parke County by toad. We weren’t rushing from one attraction to another. The roads themselves became the reason to explore.
Away from the highways, the countryside unfolded slowly. Fields stretched toward distant tree lines, farmhouses and barns appeared along the way, and quiet roads invited us to slow down and pay attention.
This is the kind of travel we enjoy most. Not every discovery has to be a famous attraction. Sometimes it is a curve in the road, a view across a field, or a moment that makes you stop for a photograph.
In Parke County, the journey between destinations became part of the destination itself.
As we explored the backroads of Parke County, it quickly became clear this was not a landscape created for visitors. It was a place where people still worked the land.
Fields stretched across the countryside, barns stood beside quiet roads, and farm machinery waited for another day of work. These were not attractions placed along a route; they were part of the everyday rhythm of the community.
I have always enjoyed photographing working landscapes because they tell stories beyond what first catches the eye. A tractor in a field or an old barn beside a country road reveals a connection between people and the land that has continued for generations.
Parke County’s beauty comes partly from that authenticity. It is not a rural landscape preserved in time—it is a rural landscape still being lived.
I wasn’t expecting to find an Amish community in Parke County. I was familiar with the much larger Amish presence in northwest Indiana but I hadn’t thought of Parke County in the same way.
Then, while exploring the backroads, we encountered Amish buggies sharing the road.
Their presence seemed perfectly at home among the farms, fields, and quiet countryside. The horse and buggy moved at a pace that matched the landscape around it, reminding us that not every journey needs to be hurried.
We slowed down, gave them plenty of room and appreciated the simple rhythm of a different way of life moving alongside our own.
It was another reminder that Parke County reveals itself in unexpected ways. Sometimes the best discoveries are the ones you weren’t looking for.
More than a structure, they are part of the landscape
Eventually, the covered bridges began to appear.
Parke County is known as the “Covered Bridge Capital of the World” with 31 covered bridges scattered throughout the county. For many visitors, they are the reason to come. But what makes them special is not simply the craftsmanship or history. It is the way they seem to belong exactly where they are.
McAllister Covered Bridge and Neet Covered Bridge were two that captured my attention. I photographed them from different angles but what I appreciated most was their setting—the quiet roads, surrounding countryside, and sense of connection to the past.
These bridges are more than crossings over streams. They are reminders of an earlier time when roads moved at a slower pace and the journey mattered as much as the destination.
October brings another reason to visit. Parke County’s annual Covered Bridge Festival celebrates the county’s 31 historic bridges and draws visitors from across the region.
We’ll take a closer look at the bridges and the festival in a future article.
After exploring the backroads, farms and covered bridges, we discovered another side of Parke County at Raccoon State Recreation Area.
Here, the landscape changed. Open fields gave way to woods and water, creating a place to slow down, walk a trail, watch wildlife or simply enjoy the quiet surroundings. Raccoon Lake offered a different rhythm from the rural roads we had been following.
For RV travelers, places like this are part of what makes exploring a region rewarding. Not every stop needs to be a major attraction. Sometimes the best discoveries are the places that invite us to stay a little longer.
Raccoon was another reminder that Parke County is not defined by one feature. Its appeal comes from the variety of experiences found along the way.
One of the advantages of RV travel is the ability to establish a home base while exploring a new area. Instead of moving every night, we can settle in, leave the motorhome behind, and spend our days discovering what surrounds us.
Terre Haute Campground served that purpose during our visit to Parke County. With spacious sites, full hookups, and the practical amenities that make a stay comfortable, it gave us a convenient place to return after each day of exploring.
But the real value of a campground is not just the site itself. It is the freedom it provides—the ability to wander farther, stay longer, and experience a place at a slower pace.
For us, Terre Haute Campground was more than a place to park. It was the starting point and ending point of each day’s discoveries.
We arrived in Parke County expecting covered bridges and discovered something much broader.
The bridges, farms, quiet roads, Amish buggies, and natural areas all tell the story of a place where the past and present still exist side by side. It is a landscape that does not demand attention but rewards those who slow down enough to notice.
For RV travelers, that is often what we hope to find—not just another destination but a place that reminds us why we travel.
In Parke County, the road truly becomes the destination.
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Editor’s note
This article was originally published in September 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. Conditions, access, and amenities may change over time, so please verify current details before planning your trip.
To maintain transparency and editorial independence, this website contains no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just firsthand RV travel experiences and practical information for fellow travelers.
Holmes County is widely recognized as the heart of Ohio’s Amish Country and holds the largest Amish population in the state and one of the largest in the world
When planning a trip to the United States many people overlook the Midwest but states like Ohio have a lot to offer visitors from all walks of life. Ohio offers it all from the hustle and bustle of big cities like Cincinnati and Cleveland to the Appalachian Mountains’ picturesque grandeur and Lake Erie’s shores.
Holmes County is another unique Ohio region. Nestled in the heart of Ohio, Holmes County is home to the largest Amish community in the state—and one of the largest in the entire world. Known for its pastoral landscapes, horse-drawn buggies, and traditional way of life the county offers a fascinating glimpse into a culture that has resisted the rush of modern technology while thriving in its own right.
The Amish first settled in Holmes County in the early 1800s drawn by its fertile farmland and rolling hills. Today, Amish families make up nearly half of the county’s population making it the highest concentration of Amish residents in any one U.S. county. This strong presence shapes the region’s character from its slower pace of life to its thriving cottage industries. Visitors will find everything from handcrafted oak and cherry furniture to quilts, cheeses, baked goods, and other artisanal products made in Amish workshops and kitchens.
Tourism plays a major role in the county with towns like Berlin, Millersburg, and Walnut Creek serving as gateways into Amish Country. Travelers come to experience scenic byways, savor hearty homestyle meals, and browse local markets and shops. Yet beyond the attractions, Holmes County remains a working community where the Amish continue to farm, build, and live according to their centuries-old traditions.
For those who want to experience Ohio’s Amish Country at its most authentic, Holmes County is the heart of it all—a place where the modern world slows down and visitors can step into a way of life rooted in simplicity, family, and faith.
This overview provides a historical journey from the county’s early days to the present
Holmes County’s story begins in 1824 when it was carved from portions of Coshocton, Tuscarawas, and Wayne counties. Named after Major Andrew Holmes who fell in the War of 1812 the new county quickly attracted settlers with its fertile valleys, abundant forests, and rolling farmland. Among those who made Holmes County their home were German and Swiss immigrants including many Amish and Mennonite families seeking religious freedom and agricultural opportunity. These “Plain People” brought with them traditions of faith, simplicity, and community that would deeply shape the county’s identity.
By the mid-19th century, Holmes County had become an established farming region but the arrival of the Civil War tested the community’s unity. Like much of Ohio the county was torn between loyalty to the Union and skepticism about the war. Holmes County became known for its pockets of Copperhead sentiment particularly in its rural areas where residents distrusted federal authority and opposed the draft.
This tension culminated in 1863 with the Holmes County Draft Riots also called the “Battle of Fort Fizzle” when local men resisted conscription by building a small fort near Glenmont. Federal troops quickly suppressed the uprising but it left behind a legacy of dissent that remains one of the most dramatic moments in the county’s Civil War history.
During this same era the Amish and Mennonites of Holmes County quietly stood apart. Guided by pacifist beliefs they refused to take up arms choosing instead to continue farming and tending their communities. Though sometimes criticized by outsiders for their stance they remained steadfast reinforcing the separation between Amish life and mainstream society.
In the decades that followed, Holmes County grew steadily but the Amish presence became increasingly prominent. Their careful stewardship of the land, reliance on traditional farming methods, and strong family networks allowed them to thrive while much of rural America modernized. By the 20th century, Holmes County was home to the largest Amish settlement in Ohio and today it ranks as one of the largest in the world.
From its pioneer roots to the turbulence of the Civil War, Holmes County has carried forward a distinctive legacy. It is a place where history’s conflicts and challenges coexist with a way of life that has remained remarkably consistent for over two centuries. Visitors today not only step into Ohio’s past but also into a living culture that continues to shape the county’s character in the present.
1824: Holmes County is founded, named after Major Andrew Holmes of the War of 1812
Early 1800s: Amish and Mennonite families arrive settling the fertile farmland
Mid-1800s: Farming communities flourish as German, Swiss, and English settlers establish homesteads
1863: The Holmes County Draft Riots (“Battle of Fort Fizzle”) erupt near Glenmont as locals resist the Civil War draft; federal troops quickly suppress the uprising
Late 1800s–1900s: Amish culture expands with schools, churches, and small businesses shaping daily life
20th Century: Holmes County gains fame for Amish furniture, quilts, and cheese becoming a tourism destination
Today: The County is home to the largest Amish settlement in Ohio where horse-drawn buggies still travel country roads
Best things to do in Holmes County (any time of year)
Iimmerse yourself in the natural landscape and the area’s rich cultural heritage
Holmes County offers a rich mix of cultural, natural, and family-friendly activities year-round drawing visitors to its vibrant Amish heritage, scenic rural landscapes, and unique attractions.
1. Drive the Amish Country Byway
Designated as a scenic byway, this 160-mile route winds through the countryside, offering postcard-worthy views of farms, covered bridges, and quaint towns. Along the way, you’ll share the road with horse-drawn buggies giving you a genuine sense of Amish life. Pull over at scenic overlooks or stop into farm stands that dot the route—you’ll always find something new with the changing seasons.
2. Visit Amish farms and roadside markets
Holmes County is famous for its farm-to-table abundance. Spring brings maple syrup and early garden produce, summer offers sweet corn and berries, fall fills markets with apples, pumpkins, and cider while winter is the time for baked goods, noodles, and canned preserves. Many stands are run on the honor system with cash boxes for payment offering a refreshingly simple shopping experience.
Craftsmanship is at the heart of Amish tradition and Holmes County is one of the best places in America to find high-quality handmade furniture. Workshops and showrooms showcase hardwood dining sets, rockers, and bedroom suites built to last for generations. Quilting shops also display colorful intricate patterns that reflect both artistry and practicality. Even if you don’t make a big purchase, it’s fascinating to see the skills passed down through families.
4. Tour Historic Millersburg
As the county seat, Millersburg blends small-town charm with rich history. Antique hunters will love the variety of shops while history buffs can step inside the Victorian House Museum, a restored 28-room mansion filled with period furnishings. Just across the street is the Holmes County Historical Society where exhibits trace the area’s past from pioneer days to the present.
Cheese-making is an art form in Holmes County thanks to its strong Swiss and German heritage. At Heini’s Cheese Chalet, you can sample dozens of varieties from smoked cheddar to unusual blends like yogurt cheese. Over at Guggisberg Cheese, home of the original Baby Swiss you’ll taste a cheese that has gained international fame. Don’t forget to take some home—most shops offer vacuum-sealed packaging for travelers.
6. Experience Amish homestyle dining
Few things embody Holmes County like sitting down to a family-style Amish meal. Restaurants such as Der Dutchman or Boyd & Wurthmann serve classics like roast beef, fried chicken, creamy mashed potatoes, homemade noodles, and fresh-baked pies. Portions are generous and meals are often served “family style” where bowls are passed around the table evoking the warmth of a Sunday dinner at grandma’s house.
This living-history farm allows visitors to tour authentic Amish homes, a one-room schoolhouse, and working barns. Guides explain Amish traditions, from education to worship practices, giving a respectful, inside look at their way of life. Seasonal demonstrations—like baking, quilting, or horse-plowing—bring the experience to life.
8. Explore the Holmes County Trail
This unique 15-mile trail runs along a former railroad bed and is one of the few in the country designed for both bicycles and horse-drawn buggies. Surrounded by woodlands, fields, and streams it’s a favorite for cyclists, walkers, and joggers. In winter, the snow-dusted landscape makes it a peaceful spot for quiet strolls or birdwatching.
9. Learn at the Amish & Mennonite Heritage Center
Home to the 265-foot-long cyclorama mural called Behalt, the center tells the dramatic story of the Amish and Mennonite journey from persecution in Europe to freedom in America. Knowledgeable guides explain the symbolism and history behind the artwork making it one of the most educational stops in Holmes County.
Stay at full-service RV parks, campgrounds, or countryside inns that welcome RV travelers many with hookups and scenic views. In summer, you can sip coffee while watching the morning fog rise over cornfields. In winter, many lodges feature fireplaces, warm quilts, and hearty breakfasts, making the county a year-round retreat for relaxation.
With its mix of scenic drives, authentic Amish experiences, history, and hearty food, Holmes County offers something special every season. Whether you’re shopping for a quilt, biking beside a buggy, or sitting down to pie straight from the oven, it’s a place where the simple joys never go out of style.
Following these guidelines ensures a rewarding and respectful visit to Amish Country
Holmes County’s Amish communities welcome visitors who respect their way of life. Observing proper etiquette ensures your visit is enjoyable for both you and the locals.
1. Respect privacy and personal space
Amish people highly value privacy. Avoid taking photos of individuals especially children without explicit permission. It’s considered intrusive and disrespectful. Photos of landscapes, farms, buggies, or farm animals are generally fine as long as people aren’t the focus. Always err on the side of discretion.
2. Drive carefully on country roads
The rural roads of Holmes County are shared with horse-drawn buggies, tractors, and pedestrians. Slow down when approaching a buggy, maintain a safe distance, and never honk unnecessarily. Most buggies travel slower than motor vehicles so patience and attentiveness are essential for safety.
3. Dress modestly
While there’s no strict dress code for visitors, dressing modestly shows respect for local culture. Avoid revealing clothing or loud, flashy attire. Neutral colors and casual, comfortable clothing are generally appropriate especially when visiting markets, churches, or Amish-run businesses.
Amish markets and shops are often family-run and may operate on simple cash systems sometimes even honor-based stands. Treat sellers with kindness and patience. Bring exact change when possible and handle products gently especially handmade items. Avoid loud bargaining—prices are usually fixed.
5. Keep noise to a minimum
Amish communities value quiet and calm surroundings. Speak softly in public areas, don’t rev car engines unnecessarily, and avoid blasting music. This is especially important near farms, schools, or churches where peace and order are central to daily life.
6. Respect farm operations
Do not enter fields, barns, or private property unless explicitly invited. Stick to public roads, designated parking, and marked areas at farms or attractions. Observing from a respectful distance allows you to enjoy the scenery without disrupting work.
7. Mind your technology
Amish culture generally avoids modern electronics. While you can use phones for personal purposes, avoid loud conversations, selfies with Amish people or intrusive video recording. Keep devices discreet in public spaces.
8. Tipping and payments
Tipping is typically not expected in Amish-run stores or markets. However, in restaurants with table service, small gratuities are appreciated. For roadside stands, cash payment is standard and exact change is often helpful.
9. Be observant and patient
Visiting Amish Country is about experiencing a slower, intentional way of life. Take time to notice craftsmanship, farm work, and family routines. Ask questions politely if you’re curious and remember that not all practices are open to tourists. Patience and observation go a long way.
10. Cultural sensitivity
Avoid judgment or comparisons between Amish life and your own. Many traditions from horse-drawn transportation to handmade goods reflect centuries of intentional, faith-based choices. Appreciating this perspective enhances your experience.
Visiting Holmes County is as much about respecting the culture as enjoying the scenery, food, and crafts. By driving carefully, dressing modestly, respecting privacy, and observing quietly, you ensure a positive and authentic experience while honoring Amish traditions.
Holmes County, Ohio, truly offers a unique and enriching travel experience throughout the year. Visitors can immerse themselves in the charm and tranquility of Amish Country enjoying scenic drives along the Amish Country Byway, exploring picturesque towns like Berlin and Millersburg, and partaking in cultural events such as the Ohio’s Amish Country Quilt Festival.
Whether it is the vibrant spring festivals, leisurely summer outings, colorful fall foliage, or cozy winter evenings with local theater and hearty Amish cuisine, the area accommodates various interests and seasons. Outdoor enthusiasts can explore hiking and canoeing options while families can engage with farm tours and educational experiences.
Respecting the Amish community’s way of life is essential to truly appreciating the visit to Holmes County. Observing proper etiquette—like refraining from photographing individuals without permission, respecting private property, and exercising care around horse-drawn buggies—helps maintain the harmony between visitors and locals.
Many visitors find that engaging with Amish craftsmanship, sampling locally made foods, and attending cultural events creates lasting memories and deepens their understanding of this unique community.
Please note: This article was first published October 2025. Articles apply to the date they were written. Please refer to current information for quickly changing subjects.
Worth Pondering…
We live simply so that others may simply live.
—Amish Proverb, reflecting their values of humility and stewardship
In the serene landscape of Pennsylvania Dutch Country, Lancaster County offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditional world of the Amish. This pastoral region with its rolling farmland, covered bridges, and horse-drawn buggies seems lost in time—a place where a simpler way of life still thrives.
On an RV getaway to Lancaster County, we had the chance to immerse ourselves in Amish culture, history, and legendary comfort food. What we discovered was an unexpectedly rich and rewarding experience, full of warm hospitality, delicious home-cooking, and a profound sense of peace.
From the moment we arrived, it was clear Lancaster County moves at a different pace. The landscape is a patchwork of neatly tended farms, whitewashed barns, and quaint shops. Along winding country roads, we spotted Amish families traveling by horse and buggy, women in bonnets working in gardens, and children riding on kick scooters.
This bucolic scenery alone makes Lancaster County worth the trip. But to truly appreciate Amish Country, we found it’s the people, experiences, and flavors you encounter that leave the most lasting impression.
Kick off your Lancaster County trip with a visit to The Amish Farm and House to get an in-depth understanding of the Amish community and their unique way of life. At the once working farm, now heritage museum, you can enjoy guided farmhouse tours that’ll take you into the life of the Amish.
Explore the one-room schoolhouse and take in some of the school’s art; take a ride in a traditional horse buggy and chat with local artisans. Visit the farm’s resident animals where the kids can help feed the chickens or shear sheep. Don’t miss the opportunity to test-drive an Amish scooter.
If you want to explore further afield, hop on the Countryside Bus Tour which ventures deeper into the scenic farmlands and visit a couple of Amish businesses. Be sure to take your camera as the panoramic views of the Amish countryside are spectacular.
Pierce into the heart of Pennsylvania Dutch Country to enjoy an up-close look at this fascinating community and its way of life at the Amish Village (see photo below). Spread over 12 acres of beautifully maintained pastoral land this family-owned business offers an intimate perspective into the life of the Amish through guided tours.
The Amish Village provides an authentic glimpse into the Amish way of life. The village provides a realistic representation of how today’s Lancaster Amish community lives and works. While you’re there, you’ll be able to walk through a real 19th-century farmhouse, take a bus tour of the country roads, and get up close and personal with farm animals.
Make sure to pick up some authentic Amish baked goods, like whoopie pies, shoofly pie, and homemade bread before you leave. There’s nothing quite like real Amish baking.
Shoofly pie also written as shoo fly pie or shoo-fly pie is a classic Pennsylvania Dutch pie containing molasses. With a crumbly topping, the pie resembles coffee cake and is a delicious treat for breakfast. You could also have it as a dessert with some ice cream or top it with whipped cream to enjoy any time of day.
During your stay, definitely plan to visit the charming village of Bird-in-Hand. Seemingly frozen in time, this little hamlet looks like it was plucked from a pastoral painting.
The story goes that in 1734, two road surveyors debated whether to stop for the night noting “a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush.” The name stuck, and today Bird-in-Hand retains the same folksy appeal that convinced those colonial surveyors to stay.
At the heart of town is the Bird-in-Hand Farmers Market, a sprawling bazaar packed with fresh produce, local crafts, smoked meats, jams, and Amish staples. Nibble your way through the stalls enjoying PA Dutch pretzels, funnel cake, fudge, and endless samples. The baked goods are particularly divine—don’t miss the sticky buns or raspberry cream cheese pie.
Beyond the market you’ll find plenty of quaint shops, buggy ride tours, and restaurants serving authentic fare. We loved poking into the country stores brimming with handcrafted items, antiques, and souvenirs.
Visiting Bird-in-Hand feels like stepping into a Norman Rockwell scene, a nostalgic vision of small-town America that time forgot. Spending an afternoon here provides a captivating glimpse into a simpler era brimming with authentic country charm and nostalgic appeal.
One of Lancaster County’s biggest draws is undoubtedly the phenomenal Pennsylvania Dutch cooking.
Smokehouse BBQ and Brews serves up mouthwatering barbecue and comfort food classics in a relaxed setting. The tantalizing scent of slow-smoked meats hits you the moment you enter and the atmosphere is fun, casual, and inviting.
Everything here is made from scratch using local ingredients. You can taste the quality from the succulent Burnt Brisket Ends basted in White Horse sauce to the mammoth Smokehouse Stacker piled high with beef, pulled pork, slaw, and fixings. Alongside honey-butter slathered corn muffins and decadent mac n’ cheese, it’s a carnivore’s dream.
The Smokehouse Rib Combo with a half-rack and your choice of smoked meat is the best of both worlds.
Don’t forget to sample their locally crafted brews, spirits, and wines for an authentic taste of Lancaster. After a meal here, you’ll understand why Smokehouse is a pilgrimage-worthy destination for barbecue lovers!
Shop for handcrafted treasures at Plain and Fancy Country Store
Be sure to browse the adjacent Plain and Fancy Country Store. This spacious shop carries a carefully curated collection of handcrafted Amish clothing, toys, crafts, décor, and foods that showcase the community’s incredible artisanship.
There’s also a mouthwatering array of authentic Pennsylvania Dutch sweets and snacks like whoopie pies, shoofly pie, chow chow, and jams made from Amish family recipes. It’s the perfect spot to pick up unique gifts and tasty souvenirs.
Explore The Quilt Shop at Miller’s: Amish quilting at its finest
Amish Country is legendary for its stunningly intricate handmade quilts. At The Quilt Shop at Miller’s, you can witness the fascinating tradition of Amish quilting in its full glory.
Established in 1998, this specialized store boasts over 1,000 gorgeous hand-stitched quilts, wall-hangings, pillows, and textiles made by local Amish and Mennonite artisans. Displayed in a bright 3,500 sq ft showroom, the craftsmanship and artistry on display is jaw-dropping.
Vibrant and iconic patterns burst from each quilt in a kaleidoscope of color and detail. The stitching is impossibly precise with thousands of tiny uniform stitches creating a supple yet substantial texture. The amount of time required to complete this process can vary depending on factors such as the size of the fabric and the complexity of the design with some quilts taking up to 1,000 hours to finish.
Whether you’re a serious collector or simply an admirer of handmade beauty, The Quilt Shop at Miller’s provides an incredible opportunity to own a one-of-a-kind, future heirloom that can be cherished for generations. With a range of sizes and designs for every taste and budget, you’re sure to find an amazing quilt to take home.
Stock up on the flavors of Amish Country at Locally Made Food Shop
Speaking of take-home treats, no visit to Lancaster County is complete without stocking up on authentic Pennsylvania Dutch foods and baked goods. And there’s no better place to get your fix than Locally Made Food Shop.
Located next to The Quilt Shop, this delightful store features a vast selection of Amish-made sweet and savory delicacies prepared using traditional recipes and local ingredients. Shelves are lined with jars of chow chow, pepper jam, bacon dressing, fruit butters, and pickled everything alongside fresh-baked shoofly pies, gooey whoopie pies, sticky buns, and signature breads.
With its abundant variety of locally made delicacies you can’t find elsewhere, Locally Made is an absolute must-stop for foodies. Just leave extra room in your vehicle—you’ll need it for all the mouthwatering goodies you’ll want to bring back!
Dine at Miller’s Smorgasbord: Serving Amish feasts for nearly a century
No visit to Lancaster County is complete without indulging in an authentic Pennsylvania Dutch smorgasbord. And for almost 100 years, Miller’s Smorgasbord has been the go-to spot for experiencing this delectable Amish tradition.
Miller’s story began in 1929 when Anna Miller started serving her famous chicken & waffles to hungry truckers while her husband repaired their rigs. Word of her delicious down-home cooking quickly spread and soon Anna’s humble truck-stop diner evolved into Miller’s Smorgasbord, a Lancaster County institution now in its fourth generation of family ownership.
Today, the restaurant serves a massive smorgasbord menu featuring over 100 items all made from scratch using Anna’s time-honored recipes and fresh local ingredients. But while the menu has expanded, the warm hospitality and commitment to homestyle cooking remains unchanged.
Endless rows of Pennsylvania Dutch comfort foods span as far as the eye can see—succulent slow-roasted beef, crispy fried chicken, savory chicken pot pie with homemade noodles, creamy baked cabbage, and so much more.
Be sure to try Anna’s original chicken and waffles, an Amish Country classic featuring tender, juicy fried chicken atop a golden malted waffle—a heavenly pairing of sweet and savory. Other must-try dishes include the mouthwatering Swedish meatballs, beef burgundy, and an endless supply of fresh, peel-and-eat shrimp.
Just when you think you can’t possibly eat another bite, the dessert bar offers a decadent selection of baked pies, cakes, and more.
Miller’s Gourmet Apple Pie and Pennsylvania Dutch Shoofly Pie are local legends while the Chocolate Mousse Cheesecake and Warm Chocolate Pecan Pie are decadent delights sure to satisfy any sweet tooth. Pace yourself and save room for a slice (or two).
Nearly a century after Anna Miller served her first chicken and waffle, her legacy of fabulous food and gracious service continues to draw locals and visitors alike. Making the pilgrimage to Miller’s Smorgasbord is a cherished Lancaster County tradition that offers an authentic taste of Amish culture where everyone leaves stuffed and smiling.
One of the most memorable parts of our trip was simply driving around Amish Country. As we meandered through the picturesque backroads of Lancaster County, we were treated to stunning views of emerald fields, charming farms, and classic red barns. The scenery was dotted with quaint roadside shops where we found unique handmade goods and delicious local treats.
We often encountered horse-drawn buggies adding to the timeless feel of the landscape. The abundance of farm animals was also a delight—longhorns, horses, sheep, and lots of adorable baby animals greeted us at nearly every turn. It was pure joy to see them grazing peacefully in their fields.
As we passed by the local farms we observed Amish families working together to tend their crops. It was heartwarming to see generations of farmers, even young children, all contributing to the labor with a sense of purpose and community. This simple yet profound way of life was a beautiful reminder of the value of hard work and togetherness.
Driving these backroads provides an intimate glimpse into the Amish way of life and an invitation to slow down and embrace the simple pleasures we so often overlook.
Quaint, charming, bustling, and cool—all words that are commonly used to describe Lititz, a small town in the northern part of Lancaster County.
Lititz is known for its history. It was founded in 1756 by Moravians seeking religious freedom. The intersection of Broad and Main Streets make up the heart of the town. Here you can find local art galleries, chic boutiques, antiques shops, cozy cafes, bed and breakfasts, and restaurants.
Lititz was the first community in Pennsylvania to establish a historic district, so many of the buildings in town date back in history. Log, brick, and stone homes in a variety of English, German, and Victorian architecture styles help make it so picturesque.
The architecture is not the only thing that makes Lititz historic. It is also home to the oldest commercial pretzel bakery in America, Julius Sturgis Pretzels Bakery founded in 1861 and Wilbur Chocolate founded in 1894. The oldest all-girls boarding school, Linden Hall founded in 1746 is located in town as well. The Lititz Springs Park which hosts many of the town’s events was created in 1741.
Visitors to Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery can learn how these famous hot pretzels are made and sample a few kinds along the way. Popular options include traditional sourdough pretzels and flavored pretzels like honey mustard and onion or ranch. Hungry guests with a sweet tooth will also enjoy the chocolate-covered pretzels on offer. The pretzels are delicious, the tour guides are great, and that this is a must-visit in Lititz.
Upon visiting you can tour the bakery and watch how these old-fashioned pretzels are made by hand or even try to make one yourself!
The Wilbur Bud owes its name to an unlikely source of inspiration: nature. In 1894, founder H.O. Wilbur developed a process that deposited specially blended aged chocolate into a solid shape that resembled a flower bud.
While a lot has changed since 1894, the Wilbur Bud is still a local favorite (and Lititz icon) made according to Mr. Wilbur’s original recipe. Available in both semisweet and milk chocolate varieties, the Bud remains the most beloved of all Wilbur Chocolate treats—and is still manufactured in the heart of Central Pennsylvania.
Founded in 1754, the town was originally named after an old tavern, the Cross Keys, and did not become known as Intercourse until 1814.
There are a couple theories behind this cheeky town name. The first theory comes from an old race track located on Old Philadelphia Pike called Entercourse. Some think that the name Entercourse evolved to Intercourse and became the town name in 1814.
The second theory stems from the two famous roads that intersected in the town, one running east and west from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh and one running from Erie to Wilmington. Because of this, the town was called Cross Keys which may have eventually become Intercourse.
The third theory concerns the language used during the town’s early days when the word intercourse described fellowship and social support in the community. The town name of Intercourse would have described the comradery of the town—the same values the town still holds today.
Intercourse remains a place where locals, visitors, and Amish farmers meet and socialize. It offers a glimpse into the traditions of the Pennsylvania Dutch with its cultural experiences, shops, homemade goods, and family-friendly events.
If you’re into shopping or simply want to experience the rich Amish culture found in Intercourse, there are a number of local spots to check out. AAA Buggy Rides at Kitchen Kettle Village is a fun and interactive way to explore Intercourse through the lens of the Amish. Kitchen Kettle Village is a shopping center overflowing with that close knit Lancaster feel featuring 42 shops including Jam & Relish Kitchen and Deerskin Leather Shop.
For the popular Lancaster quilts, stop on by Village Quilts to admire the hand-stitched patchwork done by locals. The variety of colors and patterns are absolutely eye-catching and make for great quilts, wall hangings, textile art, and more. You can also find a great selection of affordable quilts at The Old Country Store along with a selection of fabric to create your own quilt.
Lancaster County and Amish Country offer a chance to escape modern life’s fast pace and reconnect with simpler living. Here, the focus is on faith, family, community, and living harmoniously with the land. Every moment from shared food to crafted goods feels intentional and meaningful.
Amish Country is not just a quaint look at the past; it’s a reminder to value our roots, cherish communities, and make time for life’s simple pleasures.
When modern life becomes overwhelming, treat yourself to a peaceful getaway in Lancaster. Let this countryside rejuvenate you, and return home with a newfound appreciation for simplicity.
Ready to explore this unique corner of Pennsylvania?
The Amish trace their roots back to the Anabaptist movement in 1525 Switzerland which emphasized adult baptism and separation of church and state. In 1693, a group led by Jakob Ammann broke off to form their own sect which became known as the Amish.
What language do the Amish speak?
The Amish speak several languages. Pennsylvania German also known as Pennsylvania Dutch is the primary language used at home and in church. This is a dialect of German with some English influence. Most Amish learn English at school making it their second language. A few communities especially in Indiana speak a form of Swiss German.
Where are Amish communities located?
Amish communities exist in 31 U.S. states and several Canadian provinces with the largest populations in Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana. Lancaster County has both the oldest and largest Amish settlement. In total, there are approximately 2,200 local church districts each typically consisting of 20-40 families.
What is the Amish population?
As of 2023, experts estimate there are roughly 308,000 Amish in North America including adults and children. Because their communities tend to have high birth rates and low attrition the Amish population is rapidly growing with numbers doubling about every 20 years.
Are there different types of Amish groups?
Yes, there are many distinct affiliations within the Amish each with their own specific practices, lifestyles, and beliefs. Customs like dress, technology use, occupations, and even buggy styles can vary significantly between different Amish orders. When talking about “the Amish” it’s important to recognize this diversity between subgroups.
I have previously written about the Amish communities in Indiana and Ohio:
Scenic drives through the backroads of the Northern Indiana Amish Country will have you basking in the simple joys of life. Delight in a home-cooked meal, swing on a front porch, and experience the Amish culture in ways you never thought possible.
Travel northern Indiana’s backroads to discover family-owned shops, colorful quilt gardens and horse-drawn buggies traveling rural landscapes.
Dania and I have had the opportunity to visit Elkhart County, Indiana, numerous times for warranty work on our motorhome, attend rallies, and tour RV manufacturing facilities. We have found the area to be beautiful, peaceful, and friendly and we always enjoy our visits. It’s also close to Indiana Amish Country.
If you haven’t been to an Amish community, you may wonder what it’s like. We spent some time in Shipshewana and the surrounding towns and were delighted by the different communities and the natural beauty of the area.
We are big fans of the RV lifestyle and the beating heart of the RV industry pretty much overlaps the area where Amish farms are common.
There is something magical about Amish country for a variety of reasons not the least of which are the places to eat that have such wonderful food—especially pies, cakes, and donuts.
The Amish lead lives that aren’t focused on technology and social media. They work hard and live like our parents or grandparents might have in their youth including participating in family-centered activities, farming, crafting, and meal preparation.
That translates into stores and shopping that support the Amish lifestyle in a variety of ways. Further, the goods and goodies you find in these stores tend to also be of very high quality and made in the community.
Shipshewana is home to the Shipshewana Flea Market which is part of a larger RV campground property. And that happens to be where many tend to stay when they visit. The RV park is central to all the stores, dining, and activities in Shipshewana. In fact, you’d likely do better on an e-bike than you would in a car just because of the convenience of getting around.
Downtown Shipshewana
If you’re a fan of immaculately kept quaint towns, this is a great example of that. There are a number of shops that sell locally crafted items as well as locally produced food. The Amish are very good at canning and preserves and it’s not a visit to an Amish town if you don’t take at least one example of this type of goody home with you.
You can also purchase all sorts of Amish-made items including indoor and outdoor furniture. And the prices are certainly fair. It’s not a stereotype that the Amish are known for well-crafted wood products and furniture; it’s a fact.
One of our favorite stores is Yoder’s Hardware which is every bit as big as any Home Depot and has consumed most of the strip mall where it’s located. While they have all the usual stuff you’d expect to find in a hardware store they also sell items that reflect the area. For example, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many hundreds of cookie cutters in my life. There are also quilting supplies and so much more.
Another unusual store is Puzzles Plus which is located in a larger, three-story mall-type building called the Davis Mercantile. If you love puzzles there’s a bit of danger of filling your entire RV with puzzles. But there are puzzles of all sorts and forms here.
You will also find plenty of clothing stores. You can outfit yourself in just about any way imaginable but let’s just say you’re more likely to get nicer and slightly traditional things here rather than the latest trends.
Since farming is such a part of Amish culture you bet that they also have great butchers locally. Yoder’s Meat and Cheese Company is the go-to place for locally sourced beef, poultry, and pork. They offer raw meats as well as sausages, cheeses, snacks, and more. I don’t know if they’re related to the Yoder’s Hardware folks but the name is on a lot of things in the area.
You may already be aware that most members of the Amish community commute by horse and buggy or bicycle. E-bikes are becoming more popular within certain segments of the population and it doesn’t hurt that the roads are often very friendly to those who ride. Because of the Amish buggies and the horses that pull them you will want to watch for any equestrian-made speed bumps in the road but they are few and far between.
There is no shortage of delicious food in Amish country particularly if you have a fondness for butter and sugar. Those ingredients seem to be very much in abundance here. The sweet treats you can find in the shops all over downtown Shipshewana would be enough to keep your local dentist in business for years to come. Even the peanut butter is sweetened!
You might as well get an early start and go to Rise’N Roll Bakery and Deli in Middlebury, Indiana. While they offer all sorts of goodies, the cinnamon caramel donuts are my favorite and there’s a reason they’re referred to locally as Amish crack. You shouldn’t miss out on these…and don’t forget a bib for all that cinnamon powder on top.
Another favorite buffet is Das Dutchman Essenhaus in Middlebury. They also have a separate dining room for ordering off the menu but most prefer the buffet.
Inside the restaurant building is a fair amount of shopping opportunity which you will check out while you wait for a table. And there is always a wait because the place is so popular. There is also a bakery where you can buy a whole pie. The property also has a shopping village and a very nice hotel if you happen to be waiting to pick up your new RV.
Several businesses in Shipshewana are named The Blue Gate. Started by Mel Riegsecker, the story goes that Mel saw an Amish fence painted all white except the gate. Soon afterward there was a wedding. Mel thought that the blue gate indicated a woman ready to become a bride. He later named his properties Blue Gate. He finally learned that the reason the gate was blue was because the painter had run out of white paint!
Fun tours and attractions
After a delicious meal or treat from the bakery, be sure to check out the Blue Gate Theater for a live play or musical event.
Perhaps the best part of visiting Shipshewana is some of the tours available. A favorite one is the buggy tour of an Amish dairy farm. There are two reasons you’ll enjoyed this—seeing how they practice farming and also the ride to and from the farm in an Amish buggy.
Buggy Lane Tours picks you up right in downtown Shipshewana and gives you a ride around town and to the dairy. You just sit back in the buggy as you slowly watch the very immaculate houses and farms go by.
At the Amish dairy farm you get to try your own hand at milking cows and the opportunity to get a taste right from the source. The farm tour included a visit to various places in the barn and offered both historical and modern aspects of farming practices.
The dairy uses relatively modern farming practices and that’s a distinction you’ll learn from your hosts. The culture and adoption of technology isn’t universal among all Amish communities. While this is an oversimplification basically each bishop sets the ground rules for their communities. While this dairy used milking machines and a tractor you’ll see other farms with the plow being towed by horses.
That’s why you’ll see some Amish riding in cars and others in horse-drawn buggies. Some communities allow the use of types of technologies so long as they’re not dependent on being connected to the rest of the world. Therefore, there are Amish farms that are benchmarks for solar energy power and those may be the same people you’ll see riding around on e-bikes.
For those who share our desire to learn about the Amish and Mennonite cultures and ways one of the places to do so would be the Menno-Hof museum. This frank look at these cultures and people in the area is another thing you’ll absolutely want to do.
If you stay at the Shipshewana RV Park it’s an easy stroll over to the Shipshewana Flea Market which is another fun experience (in season). Here you’ll see hundreds of vendors showing off their crafting, canning, and collecting. There are rows and rows of all sorts of things you might normally expect to find in a large flea market particularly in a farming community.
Lastly, if you are visiting Shipshewana, you’ll be smack dab in the middle of RV country. I strongly suggest arranging for a tour or two of an RV manufacturing plant. The frenetic pace of these operations is something to see and RVs are mostly hand-built in a big hurry.
You won’t want to miss a visit to the RV and Manufactured Housing Hall of Fame located in Elkhart. This trip through the past of the RV world is very well presented and there is plenty to see there.
We always find something new to experience and see when we are in Amish Country and it remains one of our favorite destinations.
Plan a trip to see small towns, serene country views—and slow down for the carriages
Taking a leisurely road trip through small towns along the Amish Country Heritage Trail in Northwestern Indiana feels a bit like time travel. Horse-drawn carriages move slowly along country roads and what those roads lack in conveniences like gas stations or fast food they more than provide serene views.
There are many Amish communities in the U.S. but the state boasts the third-largest population, about 60,000 residents. Their way of life is traditional: Amish families don’t use electricity, phones, cars, and other such modern amenities; their livelihood is based on farming and sale of home grown food, baked goods, and handcrafted artistry such as rugs, quilts, and woodworks.
You may meet Amish families, taste Midwestern wine, bike a nature trail, and eat made-from-scratch pies on this road trip. Although the mileage is minimal, temptations to stop are many as you make your way through towns where American flags wave on the front porches of Victorian homes.
Prime time to make the drive is during the free Quilt Gardens event held annually in Elkhart County from late May through mid-September to honor Amish quilt-making traditions. More than 15 giant gardens with over 1 million blooms planted by more than 200 volunteers replicate classic and modern quilt patterns as well as hand-painted murals.
Start your road trip 111 miles east of Chicago in Elkhart, the region’s largest city (population: 54,000) at the confluence of the St. Joseph and Elkhart Rivers. For your first taste of the culture eat breakfast at Baker’s Nook Cafe downtown where you’ll find bacon biscuits, fluffy pancakes, and apple-bread French toast.
Energized for the day, drive a mile north to the city’s Garden District for docent-led tours of two historic home museums on Beardsley Avenue. First visit the 1848 Italianate home of Havilah Beardsley, Elkhart’s founding father who built the area’s first flour and sawmills and brought the Michigan Southern Railway to town. Then wander through the 1910 Beaux Arts mansion of Havilah’s nephew, Albert Beardsley who helped establish Elkhart’s Miles Laboratories (which invented Alka-Seltzer). See the family’s extensive Tiffany glass lamp, art, and antique car collections.
On Main Street, less than a half-mile north of the two homes, explore Wellfield Botanic Gardens, an active well site providing Elkhart’s water transformed into a lush sanctuary. Paved promenades wind through sculpture-studded flower gardens, a Japanese garden, and a children’s garden. While resting on pathside benches, listen to birdsong and the sound of flowing water in fountains. Check the schedule for guided bird walks.
Now make your way to Middlebury driving east on Indiana State Road 120. But about nine miles down the road in Bristol take a slight detour for a quick stop at Fruit Hills Winery and Orchard, two miles south on Indiana State Road 15. The tasting room pours wines made from the 170-year-old family farm’s homegrown regional grapes and fruits.
It’s about six more miles to Middlebury where your destination is Das Dutchman Essenhaus, an enormous complex that includes a bakery and a handful of village shops. Discover Indiana’s largest family restaurant which offers both family-style and buffet and menu dining options serving over 30 varieties of pie. After a satisfying meal stroll through the campus grounds with five unique Village Shops, take a carriage ride, or play mini-golf.
There, cap your day with a scenic bicycle ride on part of the paved Pumpkinvine Nature Trail, a rail-trail linking multiple small towns. Pick up the trail on North Main Street across from Pumpkinvine Cyclery where you can rent your bike. Cycling through fertile farmland you’ll pass white Amish homesteads where laundry on clotheslines flaps in the breeze.
A drive about eight miles east on County Road 16 brings you to Shipshewana with horse-drawn buggy traffic building at the intersection of Indiana State Road 5 (aka Van Buren Street, the town’s main drag).
The roads that connect Middlebury and Shipshewana are lined with Amish farms and businesses. Driving east on Country Road 16 you’ll share the road with black carriages drawn by spirited horses, many of which stop at Dutch Country Market, Rise ‘n Roll Bakery, and Heritage Ridge Creamery. Amish hands and skillfully blended basics create some of the best baked goods I’ve ever tasted.
Start at Dutch Country Market for the supersized cinnamon rolls and house-made noodles. Rise ‘n Roll Bakery offers up display cases full of loaves of wheat bread, pies, cookies, and donuts. There are no better donuts, period. They melt in your mouth! The cheeses at Heritage Ridge Creamery are made with milk sourced from Amish farms.
Spend time on South Van Buren Street shopping at the region’s Shipshewana Trading Place Auction & Flea Market if you’re in town on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Inside the auction hall each Wednesday year-round, Amish auctioneers stand on step ladders above bidders vying for antique brass-bed headboards, vintage toys, carpentry tools, paintings, and architectural remnants. The loud, monotone drone of the auctioneer chorus sounds like a gigantic buzzing beehive.
The 75-year-old outdoor flea market held May through September covers 40 acres (scooter rentals available) and features nearly 700 vendors (many Amish). Browse booths selling everything from tooled-leather horse saddles to bags and belts and flowering plants.
Nearby, Amish-owned specialty stores are open year-round including Brandenberry Furniture, Countryroad Fabrics & Gifts, E & S Sales (bulk foods grocery store), and Eash Sales (outdoor decor and patio furniture).
Be sure to tour Menno-Hof to learn about Amish and Mennonite history, lifestyle, and beliefs with multimedia presentations and 24 display areas. You’ll travel through five centuries of history from origins in Switzerland to their arrival in America. Exhibits explain Amish, Mennonite, and Hutterite history, faith, and lifestyle.
You’ll feel like you’re at a Thanksgiving meal whenever you eat in Amish country. Portions are generous and the homemade goodness comes through with every bite. You can dine family-style or order from the menu at the Blue Gate Restaurant and Bakery where they bake up to 29 varieties of pie. While you’re working up your appetite, shop around in any of the onsite shops, featuring handcrafted furniture, a craft barn, and bakery.
Continue 4 miles south along Indiana Highway 5 to Yoder’s Popcorn, for popcorn the way you remember it. Try their renowned Tiny Tender Popcorn
Retrace your steps back to Shipshewana and from there it’s a 21-mile scenic drive west on County Road 34 (aka 400 South St. in Shipshewana) and Indiana State Roads 13 and 4 to Goshen. You’ll pass towering cornfields, verdant horse pastures and farms with shops selling seasonal vegetables, honey, and fresh-baked goods.
In Goshen, admire the classic courthouse in the heart of town. Peek into the bunker-like police booth on the Corner of Main and Lincoln dating back to the days when John Dillinger was the bane of bankers. Don’t miss the Olympic Candy Kitchen, “the sweetest little place in town,” for a soda at the old-fashioned fountain or some handmade chocolates. They have been making classic BLT sandwiches, ice cream sundaes, and caramel-chocolate turtle candies since 1912.
Built in 1896 the Old Bag Factory is home to producing artists, antiques, specialty shops, and cafes. The historic character of the complex provides a unique and charming setting for the specialty shops it houses.
Come evening, go for dinner and live music at family-friendly Goshen Brewing Company which pairs small-batch beers with seasonal cuisine and Southern-style smoked foods. Its outdoor patio overlooks leafy Millrace Canal, paralleling the Elkhart River.
Pastoral vistas (think endless green fields) and the scents of tilled earth and lilac abound on the drive southwest to Nappanee via Indiana State Road 119 and County Road 7.
Spend your morning with a guided tour of the Stahly-Nissley-Kuhns farmstead at Amish Acres, a historic farm-entertainment complex near downtown. Once occupied by three Amish families from 1874-1968, it’s listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Learn the whys and ways of the Amish as your guide takes you through the Old Order Amish farm’s original buildings including the farmhouse kitchen and smokehouse along with a leisurely farm wagon ride through the 80-acre farm with a stop at the one-room German schoolhouse.
Sit down to a traditional family-style “Thresher’s” meal—named for the feast that typically followed a day in the fields. It’s served amid the hand-hewn beams of the century old barn Restaurant.
Take to the road and explore Nappanee’s Countryside Shops. It’s an interesting mix of rural businesses—many are Amish-owned and sogoshme are off the beaten path. Miller’s Variety Store is packed with fun finds. The Amish are known for their woodworking skills. The Schmucker brothers at Homestyle Furniture specialize in hand-crafted furniture. Fresh pies and other delectable baked goods are made on site at the newly expanded Rentown Store and loose leaf teas and tea making supplies line the shelves at Teapot & More at Coppes Commons.
A former kitchen cabinet factory dating to 1876, Coppes Commons has been turned into an inviting attraction filled with restaurants and specialty shops selling locally made, handcrafted products—furniture, home decor accessories, quilts, toys and rugs—and fresh-baked goods. Spend some time browsing through the shops then visit its museum displaying Hoosier Cabinets handcrafted here in this factory in the early 20th century recalling a bygone era of American home life.
Head about a mile east back through town to Coppes Common where there’s plenty to do the rest of the afternoon.
Return to Elkhart via Indiana State Road 19 making a slight detour to Wakarusa about eight miles north out of Nappanee. There, pick up delicious pastries, pies and breads at Grandma’s Pantry, a bulk food store, deli and bakery.
In Elkhart, make one final stop at the stunning Southgate Crossing barn, just south of downtown. Built by Amish craftsmen in 2006, the 51,000-square-foot barn is a beautiful example of woodworking craftsmanship. If you’re still in a buying mood, the barn is a combination antiques-artisan shopping complex where you can purchase home-decor pieces, quilts, and foods including noodles, peanut butter, and fruit jams.
The Amish community is a living reminder of the principles of religious freedom that helped shape America
What comes to mind when you think of Amish country? A slower pace, rolling landscapes, quaint shops, comfort food, black buggies, and the clip-clop of horse hooves.
The first notable group of Amish arrived in America around 1730 and settled near Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Today the largest concentration of Amish is in Holmes and neighboring counties in Ohio. Located in the rolling hills of east-central Ohio, it is easy to find via I-77 to the east, I-71 to the west, and I-70 to the south.
A relaxing drive in Amish Country reveals scenic vistas and charming vignettes of a simpler time and place. It is basically a living history museum of how life was 100 years ago.
Every bend in the road brings a new and delightful surprise: dense woodlands one minute, panoramic views the next; a sudden glimpse of Amish kids bouncing on a front-yard trampoline; a flock of chickens crossing the road.
Drive slowly on these back roads. Livestock lurks in unexpected places. And there’s a steady stream of people, too—on bikes, or in buggies, or just walking down the road.
Honest, friendly, and hard-working describe the people of the area, where thousands come to experience a break from the hustle and bustle of today’s world.
Holmes County has bakeries, cheese houses, wineries, quilt and craft shops, and 80 hardwood furniture stores.
The clip-clop of horse hooves is a familiar sound in the historic town of Millersburg, founded in 1815. Millersville, the Holmes County seat, sits on the bank of Killbuck Creek and is home to 3,500 residents. Along with Berlin and Walnut Creek, Millersville makes up the heart of Ohio’s Amish Country.
October couldn’t offer a more perfect time to visit Holmes County. Of course, Amish Country’s pastoral landscape, complete with one-room schoolhouses and white picket fences, ambling black buggies and Belgian horses pulling plows in the fields, makes for scenery worthy of a postcard at any time of year.
But the burst of vibrant foliage on display here in autumn—countless species of leaves brandishing every shade of the rainbow, colorful treetops rising from the hills like upturned paintbrushes—serves up vistas that make both the Amish people and their surroundings seem transplanted from another century.
The Amish settled in this region of Ohio because it reminded them of their European homelands. They made their living primarily through agriculture, but today the Amish cottage industry is growing. The area has a large concentration of hardwood furniture builders.
They’re also a huge producer of cheese, especially Swiss cheese, with several of their cheese houses using only locally produced Amish milk. A visit to Heini’s Cheese Chalet, home of the original Yogurt Cultured Cheese, or Guggisberg Cheese, home of the Original Baby Swiss provides a glimpse into how cheese is made. Plus, at Heini’s you can sample more than 70 types of cheese, purchase Amish foods, smoked meats, fudge, and more while Guggisberg offers 60 varieties of cheese with all the accompaniments.
Housed in a charming Victorian home where comfortable rocking chairs beckon visitors, the Coblentz Chocolate Company is a destination for locals and visitors to Ohio’s Amish Country. A viewing gallery makes it possible for guests to see firsthand how the staff makes chocolates and other sweet treats the old-fashioned way. More than 60,000 pounds are produced annually at the family-owned business that has a second retail location in Berlin.
Many farms have a small business attached, catering more to Amish needs than to tourists’ taste. There’s even an Amish Maytag repairman who specializes in fixing washers that run on gas.
Enjoy beautiful scenery, visit an Amish farm, savor homemade foods, and listen for the clip-clop of a horse and buggy, the most common sight in an Amish community. Shop for handmade quilts, artwork, and furniture in Millersburg, Berlin, or Walnut Creek.
There is so much more to see and do in this beautiful and historic area. Take time to explore this great county in beautiful Ohio. You’ll be glad you did.
Worth Pondering…
Slow down and enjoy life. It’s not only the scenery you miss by going too fast—you miss the sense of where you’re going and why.
The Pennsylvania Dutch Country is definitely worth visiting, if only for a glimpse into how simple and peaceful life can be in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania
The Pennsylvania Dutch of Lancaster County is the oldest and second-largest Amish community in the United States, numbering about 37,000. The population has more than doubled in size in the past 20 years.
The largest Amish community in the U.S. is centered in Holmes County in the northwestern part of Ohio with a population of 59,000. The main concentrations of Amish are in Millersburg but areas like Berlin, Charm, Sugarcreek, Dover, Canton, and New Philadelphia are also populated with their ancestors. The Amish are also spread over Tuscarawas and Coshocton counties.
Recent figures also revealed that 42 percent of the Amish in the U.S. live in Ohio.
Another large concentration of the Amish is centered in Elkhart and Lagrange Counties in northwestern Indiana which includes Shipshewana, Wakarusa, Middlebury, Bristol, Goshen, and Nappanee. They are known for their involvement in RV manufacturing.
The story of the Pennsylvania Amish community dates back to the 16th century Reformation in Europe when the Anabaptist movement spurred the creation of three “plain” communities: the Amish, Mennonites, and Brethren. Although these spiritual groups have similarities, the Amish are the most conservative, emphasizing humility, family, community, and separation from the non-Amish world which includes a reluctance to adopt modern conveniences such as electricity.
The groups differ primarily in matters of dress, language, forms of worship, and the extent to which they allow modern technology and the forces of the “outside world” to impact their lives. Most Brethren and Mennonites dress much like their American neighbors. Other Mennonites, Brethren, and Amish Mennonites wear distinctive Amish clothing but may make use of “worldly” conveniences such as cars, electricity, and telephones. On the other hand, Old Order Mennonite and Old Order Amish groups are more restrictive in their views of modern technology with the Old Order Amish being the most conservative of Lancaster County’s “plain” groups.
These groups were part of the early Anabaptist movement in Europe which took place at the time of the Reformation. The Anabaptists believed that only adults who had confessed their faith should be baptized and that they should remain separate from the larger society. Many early Anabaptists were put to death as heretics by both Catholics and Protestants and many others fled to the mountains of Switzerland and southern Germany. Here began the Amish tradition of farming and holding worship services in homes rather than churches.
In 1536, a young Catholic priest from Holland named Menno Simons joined the Anabaptist movement. His writings and leadership united many of the Anabaptist groups who were named Mennonites. In 1693, a Swiss bishop named Jacob Amman broke from the Mennonite church. His followers were called the “Amish.” Although the two groups have split several times, the Amish and Mennonite churches still share the same basic beliefs concerning baptism and basic Bible doctrines. The Amish and Mennonites both settled in Pennsylvania as part of William Penn’s “holy experiment” of religious tolerance. The first sizable group of Amish arrived in Lancaster County in the 1720s and ’30s.
Arriving in Amish Country allows you to step back in time to enjoy a slower, more peaceful pace—one where the horse and buggy remain a primary form of transportation. Always a vital part of Lancaster County culture, the Amish are involved in agriculture as well as an array of businesses and cottage industries.
Lancaster County is undeniably beautiful and simplistic in its own charming way. Many times, people end up visiting Amish Country because they’re passing through on their way to or from other destinations. As a stand-alone destination, though, is this traditional Pennsylvania region worth visiting?
The answer is an emphatic yes. However, a more detailed answer includes what travelers are looking for during their authentic Pennsylvania Dutch experience.
As awkward as it might seem, many people are drawn to Amish communities simply due to the fact that they’re often so different than the daily, modern lives of others. The Amish live by tradition and their communities are also shaped by such.
Visiting Lancaster County, specifically, offers a glimpse into a life that’s far simpler without many of the luxuries (often seen as distractions or just plain unnecessary) that most people have grown to rely on. The way of life in Lancaster County is simple and without the desire for many modern means of technology. The result for most is a trip that’s relaxing, laid-back, and peaceful.
What to Do in Amish Country?
In short, Amish buggy rides, attractions, tours, crafts, and home-cooked meals throughout Pennsylvania Dutch Country. With that being said, some visitors might associate simple with boring—but this is certainly not the case. Of course, those visiting Lancaster County in search of theme parks and nightlife will be disappointed. However, those with realistic expectations of the Amish way of life and how bountiful it can be in its simplicity will be pleased with their decision to visit this area. From the traditional Pennsylvania Dutch food to the sights and sounds of the Amish community, visitors will walk away having developed a greater appreciation for a different way of life.
The first thing on the list for those visiting Lancaster County is to spend some time exploring (and learning about) this beautiful land. Rolling hills and farms as far as the eye can see are part of the landscape and it’s worth planning some time to take it all in. Visitors can take an authentic buggy ride which is still a mode of transportation, enjoy a modern scooter ride on a guided countryside tour, and visit traditional Amish landmarks to learn more about this unique way of life.
Aaron and Jessica’s Buggy Rides: Book a private tour with Aaron and Jessica’s Buggy Rides and experience authentic Amish life with an Amish guide. A buggy ride is an ideal way to learn about life on a real working farm. The company has seven different routes from which to choose with the farm tour being the most popular. Buggy rides are available Monday to Saturday 9 am- 6 pm and Sundays from 10 am- 4:30 pm.
Amish Village: The Amish Village provides an authentic look at today’s Amish lifestyle while surrounding you with beautiful Amish farmland. Explore the 12-acre village taking a guided tour of a historic Amish homestead and learning about Amish culture while touring Amish countryside. The Village is centered around an Amish farmhouse originally built in 1840.
The Amish Farm & House: Opened to the public in 1955, The Amish Farm and House is Lancaster County’s original Amish educational farm museum. Amish Farm & House offers a variety of guided Amish countryside bus tours, guided farmhouse tours, group tours, and self-guided farm tours (included with the purchase of a bus or farmhouse tour ticket).
Strasburg Scooters: Enjoy a guided scooter tour through the back roads of Lancaster County as you follow your guide on a ride full of surprise stops hidden throughout the countryside. A variety of tours are available from several locations with varying rates. TripAdvisor’s #1 rated tour in Lancaster County.
The Amish Experience (at Plain & Fancy Farm): The Amish Experience at Plain & Fancy Farm includes a theater experience and interactions with the Amish community to learn more about their way of life. 2021 is their 62nd year presenting guided tours of the Amish farmlands, tours of Lancaster County’s only officially designated “Heritage Site” Amish House (Fisher Family Homestead) and One-Room Schoolhouse, and the Amish Experience theater five-screen production of Jacob’s Choice.
Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery: The Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery is located in historic Lititz in the middle of beautiful Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Founded in 1861, Julius Sturgis was America’s first commercial pretzel bakery. Today, visitors can tour the original bakery, get a hands-on lesson in pretzel twisting, enjoy delicious hand-twisted soft pretzels, and shop for unique treats and souvenirs in the bakery store.
Wilbur Chocolate: A sweet, historic brand iconic to downtown Lititz, Wilbur Chocolate has a new location—right across the street from the former store. Parking, easy access, and a better shopping experience await guests. But, more importantly, the smell of chocolate from the candy kitchen greets you while you enjoy a free chocolate sample. Watch candy makers creating confectionery favorites and enjoy interesting displays of tins, packaging, equipment, and more from days gone by. You will find a large variety of chocolate specialties, signature Wilbur Buds, and packaged gifts to purchase.
Worth Pondering…
My mother’s people are Old Order Mennonite—horse and buggy Mennonite, very close cousins to the Amish. I grew up in Lancaster County and lived near Amish farmland.
Discover stunning views, historical sites, and Amish heritage along the scenic backroads
A few days in northern Indiana’s Amish country will introduce you to delicious made-from-scratch meals, amazing craftsmanship, tons of shopping, and horse-drawn carriage rides. You can take in the amazing works as you drive the Quilt Gardens along the Heritage Trail.
Northern Indiana is home to nearly 20,000 Amish, a culture that remains true to centuries-old traditions even as the world around them changes at break-neck speed. Modern technology—including television and electricity—are noticeably absent from Amish homes. The Amish “connect” in a different way—through engaging conversation, straightforward business transactions, and a solid grounding in faith and family-based values. Take a cue from them…slow your pace, unplug, and recharge.
>> During your Heritage Trail adventure… discover 17 super-sized quilt-inspired Quilt Gardens and 22 hand-painted quilt-inspired Quilt Murals.
The Quilt Gardens along the Heritage Trail combine quilting, gardening, and art into one extraordinary ride where you’ll see 16 quilt gardens composed of more than a million blooms as well as hand-painted murals. Every quilt garden and quilt mural has its own intricate pattern, many are original designs and each has its own unique story. Each of the unique communities that host quilt gardens and murals have their own special character and fun finds you’ll want to explore.
Start in Nappanee with a guided tour of the Stahly-Nissley-Kuhns farmstead at Amish Acres. It’s listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Learn the whys and ways of the Amish as your guide takes you through the Old Order Amish farm’s original buildings including the farmhouse kitchen and smokehouse along with a leisurely farm wagon ride through the 80-acre farm with a stop at the one-room German schoolhouse.
Sit down to a traditional family-style “Thresher’s” meal—named for the feast that typically followed a day in the fields. It’s served amid the hand-hewn beams of the century old barn Restaurant.
Take to the road and explore Nappanee’s Countryside Shops. It’s an interesting mix of rural businesses—many are Amish-owned and some are off the beaten path. Miller’s Variety Store is packed with fun finds. Fresh pies and other delectable baked goods are made on site at the newly expanded Rentown Store and loose leaf teas and tea making supplies line the shelves at Teapot & More at Coppes Commons. The Amish are known for their woodworking skills. The Schmucker brothers at Homestyle Furniture specialize in hand-crafted furniture.
>> Need to know … Buggies and bicycles are the main modes of transport for the Amish. You’ll see plenty of the former along backroads.
Leaving Nappanee drive northeast to Goshen and admire the classic courthouse in the heart of town. Peek into the bunker-like police booth on the Corner of Main and Lincoln dating back to the days when John Dillinger was the bane of bankers. Don’t miss the Olympic Candy Kitchen, “the sweetest little place in town,” for a soda at the old-fashioned fountain or some handmade chocolates.
Built in 1896 the Old Bag Factory is home to producing artists, antiques, specialty shops, and cafes. The historic character of the complex provides a unique and charming setting for the specialty shops it houses.
Follow Country Road 22 northeast to Middlebury where your destination is Das Dutchman Essenhaus, an enormous complex that includes a bakery and a handful of village shops. Discover Indiana’s largest family restaurant which offers both family-style and buffet and menu dining options serving over 30 varieties of pie. After a satisfying meal stroll through the campus grounds with five unique Village Shops, take a carriage ride, or play mini-golf.
>> Amish Customs and Culture … ever wonder why the Amish are referred to as “Plain People”? The main reason is because of the way they dress—very plainly. Rather than patterns on their clothing, only solid colors are worn. The men’s trousers have no zippers and instead have a button fly. Women use straight pins to fasten the sides of their dress together.
The roads that connect Middlebury and Shipshewana are lined with Amish farms and businesses. Driving east on Country Road 16 you’ll share the road with black carriages drawn by spirited horses, many of which stop at Dutch Country Market, Rise ‘n Roll Bakery, and Heritage Ridge Creamery. Amish hands and skillfully blended basics create some of the best baked goods we’ve ever tasted. Start at Dutch Country Market for the supersized cinnamon rolls and house-made noodles. Rise ‘n Roll Bakery offers up display cases full of loaves of wheat bread, pies, cookies, and donuts. There are no better donuts, period! The cheeses at Heritage Ridge Creamery are made with milk sourced from Amish farms.
>> Handmade and locally grown is not a trend for the Amish. Generations have perfected the art of hand-stitched quilts, pie (you’ll find every flavor from Amish Sugar Cream to German Chocolate to pecan), and roadside produce stands (they pop up everywhere; selections vary with the seasons).
From peaches to pumpkins, the stalls are packed with locally grown produce at the Shipshewana Flea Market on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Home to the Midwest’s largest outdoor seasonal flea market (open May through September), 700 vendors cover 40 acres of land selling everything from home decor and clothing to plants and tools. If you love the spirit of competition felt at a live auction, you’ll want to visit on Wednesdays for the Shipshewana Trading Place Auction.
Be sure to tour Menno-Hof to learn about Amish and Mennonite history, lifestyle, and beliefs with multimedia presentations and 24 display areas. You’ll travel through five centuries of history from origins in Switzerland to their arrival in America.
You’ll feel like you’re at a Thanksgiving meal whenever you eat in Amish country. Portions are generous and the homemade goodness comes through with every bite. You can dine family-style or order from the menu at the Blue Gate Restaurant and Bakery where they bake up to 29 varieties of pie. While you’re working up your appetite, shop around in any of the onsite shops, featuring handcrafted furniture, a craft barn, and bakery.
Elkhart County is Amish country and is best experienced along its Heritage Trail, a four season scenic drive
Discover stunning views, historical sites, and Amish heritage along the scenic backroads. Explore country lanes dotted with Amish-owned shops showcasing handcrafted and homemade.
Many of the towns along the Amish Country Heritage Trail date back 150 years or more. Among these are Middlebury, tiny Shipshewana known for a enormous flea market where 1,000 vendors peddle their wares twice a week from May through September, and Goshen. There’s also lovely Nappanee, a bustling community of woodworking shops that has been dubbed one of America’s “Top 10 Small Towns”.
Due to the Amish lifestyle you can almost believe you’ve stepped back in time a century or more. No utility wires lace farmhouses to poles, women in old-fashioned bonnets and long skirts bend to their task of hoeing gardens, men in 19th-century attire trudge behind horse-drawn plows across wide fields, and the clip-clop of horses’ hooves on country lanes fills the air with staccato rhythms.
The Heritage Trail could easily be driven in a few hours, but there are way too many interesting stops for that. We spent a week exploring the area while the warranty issues on our 2019 Dutch Star were addressed at the new state-of-the-art Newmar Service Center in Nappanee.
Nappanee is home to numerous woodworking shops, restaurants, antique stores, and Amish Acres, a restored 80-acre Old Order Amish farmstead. The farmstead has been an Amish farm for nearly a century. The historic complex consists of 18 restored buildings including the quaint farmhouse, a pair of log cabins, a smokehouse, and an enormous barn-turned restaurant where meals are served family style with seating for 500.
But Amish Acres is probably best known for the 402-seat Round Barn Theatre. It occupies a barn built in 1911 that has been transformed into a state-of-the-art theater. The theater is the national home of the musical “Plain and Fancy”, and in rotation, five other musicals are performed here.
Leaving Nappanee, we drove northeast to Goshen. Admire the classic courthouse in the heart of town. Peek into the bunker-like police booth on the Corner of Main and Lincoln dating back to the days when John Dillinger was the bane of bankers. Don’t miss the Olympic Candy Kitchen, “the sweetest little place in town,” for a soda at the old-fashioned fountain or some handmade chocolates.
Built in 1896 the Old Bag Factory is home to producing artists, antiques, specialty shops, and cafes. The historic character of the complex provides a unique and charming setting for the specialty shops it houses.
Following Country Road 22 northeast took us to Middlebury. Our destination, Das Dutchman Essenhaus, is an enormous complex that includes a bakery and a handful of village shops. Leisurely stroll across the colorful campus; discover Indiana’s largest family restaurant which offers both family-style and buffet and menu dining options.
From Middlebury we headed east on Country Road 16 toward Shipshewana. We shared the road with dozens of black carriages drawn by spirited horses, many of which stop—as we did at Dutch Country Market, Rise ‘n Roll Bakery, and Heritage Ridge Creamery.
Back on the asphalt, we continued southwest to Shipshewana. The small town hosts some million visitors a year for its auctions, theater, history, more than 100 shops offering fine Amish woodwork and food, and twice-a-week Shipshewana Flea Market, the largest of its kind in the Midwest.
To learn about Amish history, we toured Menno-Hof, also in Shipshewana. Through multi-image presentations, historical environments, and other displays, we traveled back 500 years to the origins of the Amish-Mennonite story.
We continued 4 miles south along Indiana Highway 5, stopping at Yoder’s Popcorn, for popcorn the way you remember it. Try their renowned Tiny Tender Popcorn. Then it’s back to our condo-on-wheels at the Newmar Service Center in Nappanee.
Worth Pondering…
The Amish are islands of sanity in a whirlpool of change.
—Nancy Sleeth, Almost Amish: One Woman’s Quest for a Slower, Simpler, More Sustainable Life
On a map, routes 39, 62, 515, and 60 form a sort of “eyeglasses” shape throughout Holmes County in Ohio. That’s fitting, because exploring these four roads are a great way to explore Amish Country. These routes make up the Amish Country Scenic Byway, designated in June 2002 as a National Scenic Byway. These 72 miles of roadway are recognized for their unique cultural and historic significance.
Along these roadways, you will be treated to the typical, yet breathtaking sights of Amish Country: teams of huge, blonde Belgians pulling wagons of hay, farmers working in the fields and of course, beautiful views of lush, green farmland, large white houses, and red barns. In the fall, the vistas become even more awe-inspiring, as nature puts on its finest show—the reds, oranges, yellows, and browns of the trees amid a backdrop of that bluest sky that only fall can produce.
The Amish have established themselves in the Holmes County area, and it is estimated that one in every six Amish in the world live in this area. The Amish choose to live a simple way of life, which is clearly evident by the presence of horses and buggies, handmade quilts, and lack of electricity in Amish homes. Entrepreneurial businesses owned by the Amish add to the friendly atmosphere along the byway while creating a welcome distance from the superstores of commercial America.
Agriculture is the economic heart of Amish Country and visitors to the area are likely to see rows of haystacks or fields being plowed. Holmes County boasts the second largest dairy production in the state, the largest local produce auction during the growing season, and weekly livestock auctions in the communities along the byway. The Swiss and German heritage of the early settlers in the county is evident in the many specialty cheese and meat products and delicious Swiss/Amish restaurants.
Apart from the beautiful scenery, these routes have numerous special attractions that shouldn’t be missed along the way. U.S. Rt. 62, for example, winds down into the heart of Holmes County from Wilmot, passing such Amish Country mainstays as the Amish Door Restaurant and Wendell August Forge before leading you into Berlin, the area’s ultimate shopping destination.
Before you get to Berlin, however, you’ll pass through the cute village of Winesburg. There’s enough here to keep you busy at least an afternoon, with several unique shops, antiques, art, and sculptures for sale, and an old-fashioned corner restaurant.
Just outside Winesburg, you can turn off 62 onto State Rt. 515, a hilly, winding road that takes you through Trail, home of the famous Troyer’s Trail Bologna, and past Yoder’s Amish Farm, where you can tour two Amish houses, a barn full of animals, a schoolhouse, and even take a buggy ride. Rt. 515 ends up in Walnut Creek, intersecting with another part of the byway, State Rt. 39.
Rt. 39 offers a wealth of things to see and do, especially in the eastern portion of Holmes County. The road passes through Millersburg, Berlin, and Walnut Creek before heading to the village of Sugarcreek.
Travelling east toward Berlin, Rt. 39 merges with Rt. 62 for a time, and you’ll pass numerous shops and restaurants. In Berlin, go through the light (stay on 39) and immediately turn left, for you’ve found yourself at the Berlin Village Gift Barn, one of the best places around to find just the right accessory for your RV. You’ll also discover Country Gatherings, a new off-shoot of the gift barn, featuring primitives and floral designs.
“Must-stops” in Walnut Creek include the shops at Walnut Creek Cheese and Coblentz Chocolates, both easily accessible from Rt. 39.
You’ll leave the Amish Country Byway feeling much the same as the traveler who said, “Traveling to Amish Country is a great getaway from our day-to-day routines. It’s quiet, clean, and refreshes the soul. When you get away from the telephone ringing, from the traffic on the roads, it’s a gift, a refuge from the everyday noise of your life.”
Growing up around Amish farmland, I enjoyed the opportunity to witness firsthand their love of family, of the domestic arts—sewing, quilting, cooking, baking—as well as seeing them live out their tradition of faith in such a unique way.
