Amish - RVing with Rex

Explore the Amish Heritage Trail

Plan a trip to see small towns, serene country views—and slow down for the carriages

Taking a leisurely road trip through small towns along the Amish Country Heritage Trail in Northwestern Indiana feels a bit like time travel. Horse-drawn carriages move slowly along country roads and what those roads lack in conveniences like gas stations or fast food they more than provide serene views.

Amish Country *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

There are many Amish communities in the U.S. but the state boasts the third-largest population, about 60,000 residents. Their way of life is traditional: Amish families don’t use electricity, phones, cars, and other such modern amenities; their livelihood is based on farming and sale of home grown food, baked goods, and handcrafted artistry such as rugs, quilts, and woodworks.

You may meet Amish families, taste Midwestern wine, bike a nature trail, and eat made-from-scratch pies on this road trip. Although the mileage is minimal, temptations to stop are many as you make your way through towns where American flags wave on the front porches of Victorian homes.

Quilt Gardens, Nappanee *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Prime time to make the drive is during the free Quilt Gardens event held annually in Elkhart County from late May through mid-September to honor Amish quilt-making traditions. More than 15 giant gardens with over 1 million blooms planted by more than 200 volunteers replicate classic and modern quilt patterns as well as hand-painted murals.

Olympia Candy Factory, Goshen *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Elkhart to Middlebury (17 miles)

Start your road trip 111 miles east of Chicago in Elkhart, the region’s largest city (population: 54,000) at the confluence of the St. Joseph and Elkhart Rivers. For your first taste of the culture eat breakfast at Baker’s Nook Cafe downtown where you’ll find bacon biscuits, fluffy pancakes, and apple-bread French toast.

>> Related article: Amish Country Heritage Trail

Energized for the day, drive a mile north to the city’s Garden District for docent-led tours of two historic home museums on Beardsley Avenue. First visit the 1848 Italianate home of Havilah Beardsley, Elkhart’s founding father who built the area’s first flour and sawmills and brought the Michigan Southern Railway to town. Then wander through the 1910 Beaux Arts mansion of Havilah’s nephew, Albert Beardsley who helped establish Elkhart’s Miles Laboratories (which invented Alka-Seltzer). See the family’s extensive Tiffany glass lamp, art, and antique car collections.

Das Dutchman Essenhaus, Middlebury *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

On Main Street, less than a half-mile north of the two homes, explore Wellfield Botanic Gardens, an active well site providing Elkhart’s water transformed into a lush sanctuary. Paved promenades wind through sculpture-studded flower gardens, a Japanese garden, and a children’s garden. While resting on pathside benches, listen to birdsong and the sound of flowing water in fountains. Check the schedule for guided bird walks.

Now make your way to Middlebury driving east on Indiana State Road 120. But about nine miles down the road in Bristol take a slight detour for a quick stop at Fruit Hills Winery and Orchard, two miles south on Indiana State Road 15. The tasting room pours wines made from the 170-year-old family farm’s homegrown regional grapes and fruits.

It’s about six more miles to Middlebury where your destination is Das Dutchman Essenhaus, an enormous complex that includes a bakery and a handful of village shops. Discover Indiana’s largest family restaurant which offers both family-style and buffet and menu dining options serving over 30 varieties of pie. After a satisfying meal stroll through the campus grounds with five unique Village Shops, take a carriage ride, or play mini-golf.

There, cap your day with a scenic bicycle ride on part of the paved Pumpkinvine Nature Trail, a rail-trail linking multiple small towns. Pick up the trail on North Main Street across from Pumpkinvine Cyclery where you can rent your bike. Cycling through fertile farmland you’ll pass white Amish homesteads where laundry on clotheslines flaps in the breeze.

Shipshewana *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Middlebury to Shipshewana and Goshen (31 miles)

A drive about eight miles east on County Road 16 brings you to Shipshewana with horse-drawn buggy traffic building at the intersection of Indiana State Road 5 (aka Van Buren Street, the town’s main drag).

Rise ‘Roll Bakery *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Start at Dutch Country Market for the supersized cinnamon rolls and house-made noodles. Rise ‘n Roll Bakery offers up display cases full of loaves of wheat bread, pies, cookies, and donuts. There are no better donuts, period. They melt in your mouth! The cheeses at Heritage Ridge Creamery are made with milk sourced from Amish farms.

Shipshewana Flea Market *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Spend time on South Van Buren Street shopping at the region’s Shipshewana Trading Place Auction & Flea Market if you’re in town on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Inside the auction hall each Wednesday year-round, Amish auctioneers stand on step ladders above bidders vying for antique brass-bed headboards, vintage toys, carpentry tools, paintings, and architectural remnants. The loud, monotone drone of the auctioneer chorus sounds like a gigantic buzzing beehive.

The 75-year-old outdoor flea market held May through September covers 40 acres (scooter rentals available) and features nearly 700 vendors (many Amish). Browse booths selling everything from tooled-leather horse saddles to bags and belts and flowering plants.

Nearby, Amish-owned specialty stores are open year-round including Brandenberry Furniture, Countryroad Fabrics & Gifts, E & S Sales (bulk foods grocery store), and Eash Sales (outdoor decor and patio furniture).

Menno-Hof *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Be sure to tour Menno-Hof to learn about Amish and Mennonite history, lifestyle, and beliefs with multimedia presentations and 24 display areas. You’ll travel through five centuries of history from origins in Switzerland to their arrival in America. Exhibits explain Amish, Mennonite, and Hutterite history, faith, and lifestyle.

You’ll feel like you’re at a Thanksgiving meal whenever you eat in Amish country. Portions are generous and the homemade goodness comes through with every bite. You can dine family-style or order from the menu at the Blue Gate Restaurant and Bakery where they bake up to 29 varieties of pie. While you’re working up your appetite, shop around in any of the onsite shops, featuring handcrafted furniture, a craft barn, and bakery.

Yoder’s Popcorn *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Continue 4 miles south along Indiana Highway 5 to Yoder’s Popcorn, for popcorn the way you remember it. Try their renowned Tiny Tender Popcorn

Retrace your steps back to Shipshewana and from there it’s a 21-mile scenic drive west on County Road 34 (aka 400 South St. in Shipshewana) and Indiana State Roads 13 and 4 to Goshen. You’ll pass towering cornfields, verdant horse pastures and farms with shops selling seasonal vegetables, honey, and fresh-baked goods.

Elkhart County Courthouse *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

In Goshen, admire the classic courthouse in the heart of town. Peek into the bunker-like police booth on the Corner of Main and Lincoln dating back to the days when John Dillinger was the bane of bankers. Don’t miss the Olympic Candy Kitchen, “the sweetest little place in town,” for a soda at the old-fashioned fountain or some handmade chocolates. They have been making classic BLT sandwiches, ice cream sundaes, and caramel-chocolate turtle candies since 1912.

Old Bag Factory *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Built in 1896 the Old Bag Factory is home to producing artists, antiques, specialty shops, and cafes. The historic character of the complex provides a unique and charming setting for the specialty shops it houses.

Come evening, go for dinner and live music at family-friendly Goshen Brewing Company which pairs small-batch beers with seasonal cuisine and Southern-style smoked foods. Its outdoor patio overlooks leafy Millrace Canal, paralleling the Elkhart River.

Amish Acres, Nappanee *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Goshen to Nappanee (15 miles)

Pastoral vistas (think endless green fields) and the scents of tilled earth and lilac abound on the drive southwest to Nappanee via Indiana State Road 119 and County Road 7.

Spend your morning with a guided tour of the Stahly-Nissley-Kuhns farmstead at Amish Acres, a historic farm-entertainment complex near downtown. Once occupied by three Amish families from 1874-1968, it’s listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Learn the whys and ways of the Amish as your guide takes you through the Old Order Amish farm’s original buildings including the farmhouse kitchen and smokehouse along with a leisurely farm wagon ride through the 80-acre farm with a stop at the one-room German schoolhouse.

Sit down to a traditional family-style “Thresher’s” meal—named for the feast that typically followed a day in the fields. It’s served amid the hand-hewn beams of the century old barn Restaurant.

>> Related article: Ohio Amish Country: It’s About Life…Plain & Simple

Take to the road and explore Nappanee’s Countryside Shops. It’s an interesting mix of rural businesses—many are Amish-owned and sogoshme are off the beaten path. Miller’s Variety Store is packed with fun finds. The Amish are known for their woodworking skills. The Schmucker brothers at Homestyle Furniture specialize in hand-crafted furniture. Fresh pies and other delectable baked goods are made on site at the newly expanded Rentown Store and loose leaf teas and tea making supplies line the shelves at Teapot & More at Coppes Commons.

Coppes Commons *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

A former kitchen cabinet factory dating to 1876, Coppes Commons has been turned into an inviting attraction filled with restaurants and specialty shops selling locally made, handcrafted products—furniture, home decor accessories, quilts, toys and rugs—and fresh-baked goods. Spend some time browsing through the shops then visit its museum displaying Hoosier Cabinets handcrafted here in this factory in the early 20th century recalling a bygone era of American home life.

Head about a mile east back through town to Coppes Common where there’s plenty to do the rest of the afternoon.

Wakarusa Dime Store *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Nappanee to Elkhart (20 miles)

Return to Elkhart via Indiana State Road 19 making a slight detour to Wakarusa about eight miles north out of Nappanee. There, pick up delicious pastries, pies and breads at Grandma’s Pantry, a bulk food store, deli and bakery.

In Elkhart, make one final stop at the stunning Southgate Crossing barn, just south of downtown. Built by Amish craftsmen in 2006, the 51,000-square-foot barn is a beautiful example of woodworking craftsmanship. If you’re still in a buying mood, the barn is a combination antiques-artisan shopping complex where you can purchase home-decor pieces, quilts, and foods including noodles, peanut butter, and fruit jams.

Southgate Crossing *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Trip tips and courtesies:

Take care when driving—buggies travel well under the speed limit
Keep a sharp eye out for buggies as you crest hills and round corners
Flashing headlights and car horns can startle buggy horses
Don’t ask to photograph or film the Amish; it’s against their religious beliefs
Respect private property but take some time to chat with Amish shop owners and artisans who welcome guests
Amish businesses are closed on Sundays

Worth Pondering…

The Amish are islands of sanity in a whirlpool of change.

—Nancy Sleeth, Almost Amish: One Woman’s Quest for a Slower, Simpler, More Sustainable Life

Ohio Amish Country: It’s About Life…Plain & Simple

The Amish community is a living reminder of the principles of religious freedom that helped shape America

What comes to mind when you think of Amish country? A slower pace, rolling landscapes, quaint shops, comfort food, black buggies, and the clip-clop of horse hooves.

The first notable group of Amish arrived in America around 1730 and settled near Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Today the largest concentration of Amish is in Holmes and neighboring counties in Ohio. Located in the rolling hills of east-central Ohio, it is easy to find via I-77 to the east, I-71 to the west, and I-70 to the south.

Holmes County, Ohio © Rex Vogel, *all rights reserved*

A relaxing drive in Amish Country reveals scenic vistas and charming vignettes of a simpler time and place. It is basically a living history museum of how life was 100 years ago.

Every bend in the road brings a new and delightful surprise: dense woodlands one minute, panoramic views the next; a sudden glimpse of Amish kids bouncing on a front-yard trampoline; a flock of chickens crossing the road.

Drive slowly on these back roads. Livestock lurks in unexpected places. And there’s a steady stream of people, too—on bikes, or in buggies, or just walking down the road.

Honest, friendly, and hard-working describe the people of the area, where thousands come to experience a break from the hustle and bustle of today’s world.

Holmes County has bakeries, cheese houses, wineries, quilt and craft shops, and 80 hardwood furniture stores.

The clip-clop of horse hooves is a familiar sound in the historic town of Millersburg, founded in 1815. Millersville, the Holmes County seat, sits on the bank of Killbuck Creek and is home to 3,500 residents. Along with Berlin and Walnut Creek, Millersville makes up the heart of Ohio’s Amish Country.

October couldn’t offer a more perfect time to visit Holmes County. Of course, Amish Country’s pastoral landscape, complete with one-room schoolhouses and white picket fences, ambling black buggies and Belgian horses pulling plows in the fields, makes for scenery worthy of a postcard at any time of year.

But the burst of vibrant foliage on display here in autumn—countless species of leaves brandishing every shade of the rainbow, colorful treetops rising from the hills like upturned paintbrushes—serves up vistas that make both the Amish people and their surroundings seem transplanted from another century.

The Amish settled in this region of Ohio because it reminded them of their European homelands. They made their living primarily through agriculture, but today the Amish cottage industry is growing. The area has a large concentration of hardwood furniture builders.

Related: Amish Country Heritage Trail

Heini’s Cheese Chalet, Holmes County, Ohio © Rex Vogel, *all rights reserved*

They’re also a huge producer of cheese, especially Swiss cheese, with several of their cheese houses using only locally produced Amish milk. A visit to Heini’s Cheese Chalet, home of the original Yogurt Cultured Cheese, or Guggisberg Cheese, home of the Original Baby Swiss provides a glimpse into how cheese is made. Plus, at Heini’s you can sample more than 70 types of cheese, purchase Amish foods, smoked meats, fudge, and more while Guggisberg offers 60 varieties of cheese with all the accompaniments.

Guggisberg’s Cheese, Holmes County, Ohio © Rex Vogel, *all rights reserved*

Housed in a charming Victorian home where comfortable rocking chairs beckon visitors, the Coblentz Chocolate Company is a destination for locals and visitors to Ohio’s Amish Country. A viewing gallery makes it possible for guests to see firsthand how the staff makes chocolates and other sweet treats the old-fashioned way. More than 60,000 pounds are produced annually at the family-owned business that has a second retail location in Berlin.

Many farms have a small business attached, catering more to Amish needs than to tourists’ taste. There’s even an Amish Maytag repairman who specializes in fixing washers that run on gas.

Enjoy beautiful scenery, visit an Amish farm, savor homemade foods, and listen for the clip-clop of a horse and buggy, the most common sight in an Amish community. Shop for handmade quilts, artwork, and furniture in Millersburg, Berlin, or Walnut Creek.

There is so much more to see and do in this beautiful and historic area. Take time to explore this great county in beautiful Ohio. You’ll be glad you did.

Worth Pondering…

Slow down and enjoy life. It’s not only the scenery you miss by going too fast—you miss the sense of where you’re going and why.

—Eddie Cantor

Is Lancaster County Worth Visiting? The Answer Is Yes and This Is Why!

The Pennsylvania Dutch Country is definitely worth visiting, if only for a glimpse into how simple and peaceful life can be in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania

The Pennsylvania Dutch of Lancaster County is the oldest and second-largest Amish community in the United States, numbering about 37,000. The population has more than doubled in size in the past 20 years.

The largest Amish community in the U.S. is centered in Holmes County in the northwestern part of Ohio with a population of 59,000. The main concentrations of Amish are in Millersburg but areas like Berlin, Charm, Sugarcreek, Dover, Canton, and New Philadelphia are also populated with their ancestors. The Amish are also spread over Tuscarawas and Coshocton counties.

Recent figures also revealed that 42 percent of the Amish in the U.S. live in Ohio.

Lagrange County, Indiana *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Another large concentration of the Amish is centered in Elkhart and Lagrange Counties in northwestern Indiana which includes Shipshewana, Wakarusa, Middlebury, Bristol, Goshen, and Nappanee. They are known for their involvement in RV manufacturing.

Lancaster County *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The story of the Pennsylvania Amish community dates back to the 16th century Reformation in Europe when the Anabaptist movement spurred the creation of three “plain” communities: the Amish, Mennonites, and Brethren. Although these spiritual groups have similarities, the Amish are the most conservative, emphasizing humility, family, community, and separation from the non-Amish world which includes a reluctance to adopt modern conveniences such as electricity.

The groups differ primarily in matters of dress, language, forms of worship, and the extent to which they allow modern technology and the forces of the “outside world” to impact their lives. Most Brethren and Mennonites dress much like their American neighbors. Other Mennonites, Brethren, and Amish Mennonites wear distinctive Amish clothing but may make use of “worldly” conveniences such as cars, electricity, and telephones. On the other hand, Old Order Mennonite and Old Order Amish groups are more restrictive in their views of modern technology with the Old Order Amish being the most conservative of Lancaster County’s “plain” groups.

These groups were part of the early Anabaptist movement in Europe which took place at the time of the Reformation. The Anabaptists believed that only adults who had confessed their faith should be baptized and that they should remain separate from the larger society. Many early Anabaptists were put to death as heretics by both Catholics and Protestants and many others fled to the mountains of Switzerland and southern Germany. Here began the Amish tradition of farming and holding worship services in homes rather than churches.

In 1536, a young Catholic priest from Holland named Menno Simons joined the Anabaptist movement. His writings and leadership united many of the Anabaptist groups who were named Mennonites. In 1693, a Swiss bishop named Jacob Amman broke from the Mennonite church. His followers were called the “Amish.” Although the two groups have split several times, the Amish and Mennonite churches still share the same basic beliefs concerning baptism and basic Bible doctrines. The Amish and Mennonites both settled in Pennsylvania as part of William Penn’s “holy experiment” of religious tolerance. The first sizable group of Amish arrived in Lancaster County in the 1720s and ’30s.

Arriving in Amish Country allows you to step back in time to enjoy a slower, more peaceful pace—one where the horse and buggy remain a primary form of transportation. Always a vital part of Lancaster County culture, the Amish are involved in agriculture as well as an array of businesses and cottage industries.

Lancaster County is undeniably beautiful and simplistic in its own charming way. Many times, people end up visiting Amish Country because they’re passing through on their way to or from other destinations. As a stand-alone destination, though, is this traditional Pennsylvania region worth visiting?

The answer is an emphatic yes. However, a more detailed answer includes what travelers are looking for during their authentic Pennsylvania Dutch experience.

Lancaster County *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved* A

Why Visit Amish Country?

As awkward as it might seem, many people are drawn to Amish communities simply due to the fact that they’re often so different than the daily, modern lives of others. The Amish live by tradition and their communities are also shaped by such.

Visiting Lancaster County, specifically, offers a glimpse into a life that’s far simpler without many of the luxuries (often seen as distractions or just plain unnecessary) that most people have grown to rely on. The way of life in Lancaster County is simple and without the desire for many modern means of technology. The result for most is a trip that’s relaxing, laid-back, and peaceful.

What to Do in Amish Country?

In short, Amish buggy rides, attractions, tours, crafts, and home-cooked meals throughout Pennsylvania Dutch Country. With that being said, some visitors might associate simple with boring—but this is certainly not the case. Of course, those visiting Lancaster County in search of theme parks and nightlife will be disappointed. However, those with realistic expectations of the Amish way of life and how bountiful it can be in its simplicity will be pleased with their decision to visit this area. From the traditional Pennsylvania Dutch food to the sights and sounds of the Amish community, visitors will walk away having developed a greater appreciation for a different way of life.

The first thing on the list for those visiting Lancaster County is to spend some time exploring (and learning about) this beautiful land. Rolling hills and farms as far as the eye can see are part of the landscape and it’s worth planning some time to take it all in. Visitors can take an authentic buggy ride which is still a mode of transportation, enjoy a modern scooter ride on a guided countryside tour, and visit traditional Amish landmarks to learn more about this unique way of life.

Aaron and Jessica’s Buggy Rides: Book a private tour with Aaron and Jessica’s Buggy Rides and experience authentic Amish life with an Amish guide. A buggy ride is an ideal way to learn about life on a real working farm. The company has seven different routes from which to choose with the farm tour being the most popular. Buggy rides are available Monday to Saturday 9 am- 6 pm and Sundays from 10 am- 4:30 pm.

Amish Village, Lancaster County *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Amish Village: The Amish Village provides an authentic look at today’s Amish lifestyle while surrounding you with beautiful Amish farmland. Explore the 12-acre village taking a guided tour of a historic Amish homestead and learning about Amish culture while touring Amish countryside. The Village is centered around an Amish farmhouse originally built in 1840.

The Amish Farm & House: Opened to the public in 1955, The Amish Farm and House is Lancaster County’s original Amish educational farm museum. Amish Farm & House offers a variety of guided Amish countryside bus tours, guided farmhouse tours, group tours, and self-guided farm tours (included with the purchase of a bus or farmhouse tour ticket).

Strasburg Scooters: Enjoy a guided scooter tour through the back roads of Lancaster County as you follow your guide on a ride full of surprise stops hidden throughout the countryside. A variety of tours are available from several locations with varying rates. TripAdvisor’s #1 rated tour in Lancaster County.

The Amish Experience (at Plain & Fancy Farm): The Amish Experience at Plain & Fancy Farm includes a theater experience and interactions with the Amish community to learn more about their way of life. 2021 is their 62nd year presenting guided tours of the Amish farmlands, tours of Lancaster County’s only officially designated “Heritage Site” Amish House (Fisher Family Homestead) and One-Room Schoolhouse, and the Amish Experience theater five-screen production of Jacob’s Choice.

Julius Sturgis Bakery tour, Lancaster County *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery: The Julius Sturgis Pretzel Bakery is located in historic Lititz in the middle of beautiful Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Founded in 1861, Julius Sturgis was America’s first commercial pretzel bakery. Today, visitors can tour the original bakery, get a hands-on lesson in pretzel twisting, enjoy delicious hand-twisted soft pretzels, and shop for unique treats and souvenirs in the bakery store.

Wilbur Chocolate, Lancaster County *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Wilbur Chocolate: A sweet, historic brand iconic to downtown Lititz, Wilbur Chocolate has a new location—right across the street from the former store. Parking, easy access, and a better shopping experience await guests. But, more importantly, the smell of chocolate from the candy kitchen greets you while you enjoy a free chocolate sample. Watch candy makers creating confectionery favorites and enjoy interesting displays of tins, packaging, equipment, and more from days gone by. You will find a large variety of chocolate specialties, signature Wilbur Buds, and packaged gifts to purchase.

Worth Pondering…

My mother’s people are Old Order Mennonite—horse and buggy Mennonite, very close cousins to the Amish. I grew up in Lancaster County and lived near Amish farmland.

—Beverly Lewis

A Window into a Unique World: Amish Life along the Heritage Trail

Discover stunning views, historical sites, and Amish heritage along the scenic backroads

A few days in northern Indiana’s Amish country will introduce you to delicious made-from-scratch meals, amazing craftsmanship, tons of shopping, and horse-drawn carriage rides. You can take in the amazing works as you drive the Quilt Gardens along the Heritage Trail.

Quilt Gardens in Nappanee *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Northern Indiana is home to nearly 20,000 Amish, a culture that remains true to centuries-old traditions even as the world around them changes at break-neck speed. Modern technology—including television and electricity—are noticeably absent from Amish homes. The Amish “connect” in a different way—through engaging conversation, straightforward business transactions, and a solid grounding in faith and family-based values. Take a cue from them…slow your pace, unplug, and recharge.

>> During your Heritage Trail adventure… discover 17 super-sized quilt-inspired Quilt Gardens and 22 hand-painted quilt-inspired Quilt Murals.

Quilt Gardens Mural in Nappanee *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The Quilt Gardens along the Heritage Trail combine quilting, gardening, and art into one extraordinary ride where you’ll see 16 quilt gardens composed of more than a million blooms as well as hand-painted murals. Every quilt garden and quilt mural has its own intricate pattern, many are original designs and each has its own unique story. Each of the unique communities that host quilt gardens and murals have their own special character and fun finds you’ll want to explore.

Amish Acres *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Start in Nappanee with a guided tour of the Stahly-Nissley-Kuhns farmstead at Amish Acres. It’s listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Learn the whys and ways of the Amish as your guide takes you through the Old Order Amish farm’s original buildings including the farmhouse kitchen and smokehouse along with a leisurely farm wagon ride through the 80-acre farm with a stop at the one-room German schoolhouse.

Rentown *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Take to the road and explore Nappanee’s Countryside Shops. It’s an interesting mix of rural businesses—many are Amish-owned and some are off the beaten path. Miller’s Variety Store is packed with fun finds. Fresh pies and other delectable baked goods are made on site at the newly expanded Rentown Store and loose leaf teas and tea making supplies line the shelves at Teapot & More at Coppes Commons. The Amish are known for their woodworking skills. The Schmucker brothers at Homestyle Furniture specialize in hand-crafted furniture.

Amish Buggy *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

>> Need to know … Buggies and bicycles are the main modes of transport for the Amish. You’ll see plenty of the former along backroads.

Leaving Nappanee drive northeast to Goshen and admire the classic courthouse in the heart of town. Peek into the bunker-like police booth on the Corner of Main and Lincoln dating back to the days when John Dillinger was the bane of bankers. Don’t miss the Olympic Candy Kitchen, “the sweetest little place in town,” for a soda at the old-fashioned fountain or some handmade chocolates.

Old Bag Factory in Goshen *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Das Dutchman Essenhaus *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Follow Country Road 22 northeast to Middlebury where your destination is Das Dutchman Essenhaus, an enormous complex that includes a bakery and a handful of village shops. Discover Indiana’s largest family restaurant which offers both family-style and buffet and menu dining options serving over 30 varieties of pie. After a satisfying meal stroll through the campus grounds with five unique Village Shops, take a carriage ride, or play mini-golf.

>> Amish Customs and Culture … ever wonder why the Amish are referred to as “Plain People”? The main reason is because of the way they dress—very plainly. Rather than patterns on their clothing, only solid colors are worn. The men’s trousers have no zippers and instead have a button fly. Women use straight pins to fasten the sides of their dress together.

Rise ‘n Roll Bakery *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

The roads that connect Middlebury and Shipshewana are lined with Amish farms and businesses. Driving east on Country Road 16 you’ll share the road with black carriages drawn by spirited horses, many of which stop at Dutch Country Market, Rise ‘n Roll Bakery, and Heritage Ridge Creamery. Amish hands and skillfully blended basics create some of the best baked goods we’ve ever tasted. Start at Dutch Country Market for the supersized cinnamon rolls and house-made noodles. Rise ‘n Roll Bakery offers up display cases full of loaves of wheat bread, pies, cookies, and donuts. There are no better donuts, period! The cheeses at Heritage Ridge Creamery are made with milk sourced from Amish farms.

>> Handmade and locally grown is not a trend for the Amish. Generations have perfected the art of hand-stitched quilts, pie (you’ll find every flavor from Amish Sugar Cream to German Chocolate to pecan), and roadside produce stands (they pop up everywhere; selections vary with the seasons).

From peaches to pumpkins, the stalls are packed with locally grown produce at the Shipshewana Flea Market on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Home to the Midwest’s largest outdoor seasonal flea market (open May through September), 700 vendors cover 40 acres of land selling everything from home decor and clothing to plants and tools. If you love the spirit of competition felt at a live auction, you’ll want to visit on Wednesdays for the Shipshewana Trading Place Auction.

Continue 4 miles south along Indiana Highway 5 to Yoder’s Popcorn, for popcorn the way you remember it. Try their renowned Tiny Tender Popcorn.

Trip tips and courtesies:

Take care when driving—buggies travel well under the speed limit
Keep a sharp eye out for buggies as you crest hills and round corners
Flashing headlights and car horns can startle buggy horses
Don’t ask to photograph or film the Amish; it’s against their religious beliefs
Respect private property but take some time to chat with Amish shop owners and artisans who welcome guests
Amish businesses are closed on Sundays

Amish crafts *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

Worth Pondering…

The Amish are islands of sanity in a whirlpool of change.

—Nancy Sleeth, Almost Amish: One Woman’s Quest for a Slower, Simpler, More Sustainable Life

Amish Country Heritage Trail

Elkhart County is Amish country and is best experienced along its Heritage Trail, a four season scenic drive

Discover stunning views, historical sites, and Amish heritage along the scenic backroads. Explore country lanes dotted with Amish-owned shops showcasing handcrafted and homemade.

Many of the towns along the Amish Country Heritage Trail date back 150 years or more. Among these are Middlebury, tiny Shipshewana known for a enormous flea market where 1,000 vendors peddle their wares twice a week from May through September, and Goshen. There’s also lovely Nappanee, a bustling community of woodworking shops that has been dubbed one of America’s “Top 10 Small Towns”.

Amish Farm *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Due to the Amish lifestyle you can almost believe you’ve stepped back in time a century or more. No utility wires lace farmhouses to poles, women in old-fashioned bonnets and long skirts bend to their task of hoeing gardens, men in 19th-century attire trudge behind horse-drawn plows across wide fields, and the clip-clop of horses’ hooves on country lanes fills the air with staccato rhythms.

Newmar Service Center *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

The Heritage Trail could easily be driven in a few hours, but there are way too many interesting stops for that. We spent a week exploring the area while the warranty issues on our 2019 Dutch Star were addressed at the new state-of-the-art Newmar Service Center in Nappanee.

Amish Acres *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Nappanee is home to numerous woodworking shops, restaurants, antique stores, and Amish Acres, a restored 80-acre Old Order Amish farmstead. The farmstead has been an Amish farm for nearly a century. The historic complex consists of 18 restored buildings including the quaint farmhouse, a pair of log cabins, a smokehouse, and an enormous barn-turned restaurant where meals are served family style with seating for 500.

Nappanee *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

But Amish Acres is probably best known for the 402-seat Round Barn Theatre. It occupies a barn built in 1911 that has been transformed into a state-of-the-art theater. The theater is the national home of the musical “Plain and Fancy”, and in rotation, five other musicals are performed here.

Olympia Candy Kitchen *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Leaving Nappanee, we drove northeast to Goshen. Admire the classic courthouse in the heart of town. Peek into the bunker-like police booth on the Corner of Main and Lincoln dating back to the days when John Dillinger was the bane of bankers. Don’t miss the Olympic Candy Kitchen, “the sweetest little place in town,” for a soda at the old-fashioned fountain or some handmade chocolates.

The Old Bag Factory *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Das Dutchman Essenhaus *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Following Country Road 22 northeast took us to Middlebury. Our destination, Das Dutchman Essenhaus, is an enormous complex that includes a bakery and a handful of village shops. Leisurely stroll across the colorful campus; discover Indiana’s largest family restaurant which offers both family-style and buffet and menu dining options.

Amish carriage with horse *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

From Middlebury we headed east on Country Road 16 toward Shipshewana. We shared the road with dozens of black carriages drawn by spirited horses, many of which stop—as we did at Dutch Country Market, Rise ‘n Roll Bakery, and Heritage Ridge Creamery.

Rise ‘n Roll Bakery *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Rise ‘n Roll Bakery offered up display cases full of loaves of wheat bread, pies, cookies, and donuts.

Heritage Ridge Creamery *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

We watched cheese being made at Heritage Ridge Creamery, then sampled and purchased it at the retail shop.

Shipshewana *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

Back on the asphalt, we continued southwest to Shipshewana. The small town hosts some million visitors a year for its auctions, theater, history, more than 100 shops offering fine Amish woodwork and food, and twice-a-week Shipshewana Flea Market, the largest of its kind in the Midwest.

Menno-Hof *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

To learn about Amish history, we toured Menno-Hof, also in Shipshewana. Through multi-image presentations, historical environments, and other displays, we traveled back 500 years to the origins of the Amish-Mennonite story.

Yoder’s Popcorn *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserve*

We continued 4 miles south along Indiana Highway 5, stopping at Yoder’s Popcorn, for popcorn the way you remember it. Try their renowned Tiny Tender Popcorn. Then it’s back to our condo-on-wheels at the Newmar Service Center in Nappanee.

Worth Pondering…

The Amish are islands of sanity in a whirlpool of change.

—Nancy Sleeth, Almost Amish: One Woman’s Quest for a Slower, Simpler, More Sustainable Life

Experience the Past in the Present along the Amish Country Byway

Traveling the Amish Country Byway is quiet, clean, and refreshes the soul

Due to changing advisories, please check local travel guidelines before visiting.

Along the Amish Country Byway in Holmes County, Ohio *© Rex Vogel, all rights reserved*

On a map, routes 39, 62, 515, and 60 form a sort of “eyeglasses” shape throughout Holmes County in Ohio. That’s fitting, because exploring these four roads are a great way to explore Amish Country. These routes make up the Amish Country Scenic Byway, designated in June 2002 as a National Scenic Byway. These 72 miles of roadway are recognized for their unique cultural and historic significance.

Along these roadways, you will be treated to the typical, yet breathtaking sights of Amish Country: teams of huge, blonde Belgians pulling wagons of hay, farmers working in the fields and of course, beautiful views of lush, green farmland, large white houses, and red barns. In the fall, the vistas become even more awe-inspiring, as nature puts on its finest show—the reds, oranges, yellows, and browns of the trees amid a backdrop of that bluest sky that only fall can produce.

The Amish have established themselves in the Holmes County area, and it is estimated that one in every six Amish in the world live in this area. The Amish choose to live a simple way of life, which is clearly evident by the presence of horses and buggies, handmade quilts, and lack of electricity in Amish homes. Entrepreneurial businesses owned by the Amish add to the friendly atmosphere along the byway while creating a welcome distance from the superstores of commercial America.

Agriculture is the economic heart of Amish Country and visitors to the area are likely to see rows of haystacks or fields being plowed. Holmes County boasts the second largest dairy production in the state, the largest local produce auction during the growing season, and weekly livestock auctions in the communities along the byway. The Swiss and German heritage of the early settlers in the county is evident in the many specialty cheese and meat products and delicious Swiss/Amish restaurants.

Apart from the beautiful scenery, these routes have numerous special attractions that shouldn’t be missed along the way. U.S. Rt. 62, for example, winds down into the heart of Holmes County from Wilmot, passing such Amish Country mainstays as the Amish Door Restaurant and Wendell August Forge before leading you into Berlin, the area’s ultimate shopping destination.

Before you get to Berlin, however, you’ll pass through the cute village of Winesburg. There’s enough here to keep you busy at least an afternoon, with several unique shops, antiques, art, and sculptures for sale, and an old-fashioned corner restaurant.

Just outside Winesburg, you can turn off 62 onto State Rt. 515, a hilly, winding road that takes you through Trail, home of the famous Troyer’s Trail Bologna, and past Yoder’s Amish Farm, where you can tour two Amish houses, a barn full of animals, a schoolhouse, and even take a buggy ride. Rt. 515 ends up in Walnut Creek, intersecting with another part of the byway, State Rt. 39.

Rt. 39 offers a wealth of things to see and do, especially in the eastern portion of Holmes County. The road passes through Millersburg, Berlin, and Walnut Creek before heading to the village of Sugarcreek.

Travelling east toward Berlin, Rt. 39 merges with Rt. 62 for a time, and you’ll pass numerous shops and restaurants. In Berlin, go through the light (stay on 39) and immediately turn left, for you’ve found yourself at the Berlin Village Gift Barn, one of the best places around to find just the right accessory for your RV. You’ll also discover Country Gatherings, a new off-shoot of the gift barn, featuring primitives and floral designs.

“Must-stops” in Walnut Creek include the shops at Walnut Creek Cheese and Coblentz Chocolates, both easily accessible from Rt. 39.

You’ll leave the Amish Country Byway feeling much the same as the traveler who said, “Traveling to Amish Country is a great getaway from our day-to-day routines. It’s quiet, clean, and refreshes the soul. When you get away from the telephone ringing, from the traffic on the roads, it’s a gift, a refuge from the everyday noise of your life.”

Worth Pondering…

Growing up around Amish farmland, I enjoyed the opportunity to witness firsthand their love of family, of the domestic arts—sewing, quilting, cooking, baking—as well as seeing them live out their tradition of faith in such a unique way.

―Beverly Lewis

Experience a Different Way of Life along the Amish Country Byway

The Amish community is a living reminder of the principles of religious freedom that helped shape America

Take a break from the fast-paced world of smart phones, computers, and demanding schedules, and enjoy the “simple life” found on the Amish Country Byway in Ohio.

At first, you may feel as if time is standing still, but you’ll soon discover that the Amish folk are highly enterprising and productive. They have simply chosen to maintain their traditional beliefs and customs, continuing a lifestyle uncomplicated by the ways of the modern-day world.

Along the Holmes County Byway © Rex Vogel, all rights reserve

As you travel the Amish Country Byway, sharing the road with horses and buggies, you will experience first-hand the Amish way of life. You will also take in plenty of beautiful scenery and have a wide variety of recreational opportunities to pursue.

The Amish people in Holmes County, Ohio, make up the largest concentration of Amish communities in the world, and they provide a unique look at living and adapting traditional culture.

The Amish community is a living reminder of the principles of religious freedom that helped shape America. With a devout sense of community and adherence to beliefs, the Amish Country Byway gives a rare opportunity to witness a different way of life.

Begin your tour of the Byway by visiting the Amish and Mennonite Heritage Center. Learn about the community and see Behalt, a dramatic 10-foot by 265-foot mural-in-the-round that depicts Amish/Mennonite history, painted by the late international artist, Heinz Gaugel.

Then, visit Yoder’s Amish Home and witness for yourself early traditional farming ways. Also, go for a buggy ride, and tour two homes completely furnished in traditional Amish decor.

If you travel the Byway during growing and harvest season, typically from April to November, you’ll definitely want to stop by the Farmer’s Produce Auction. Here you will find everything from bedding plants and dried flowers to asparagus, zucchini, pumpkins, and Indian corn. Both the Amish and English people in the area maintain a strong tradition of agriculture and produce wonderful crops, cheese, and specialty meat products.

Nature along the Byway only adds to the peaceful setting of the countryside. Enjoy an early morning picnic or fishing trip at the Killbuck Marsh.

In the 21st century, the Amish Country Byway is an important example of a multicultural community, as both the Amish and non-Amish traditions are strong in the region. These two cultures have built on similarities while still respecting differences. By working together, they have created a thriving, productive community.

The Amish, as a branch of the Anabaptist people, are traditionally devout and religious. Like so many other immigrants, they came to America in search of religious freedom. In Europe, the Anabaptists had been persecuted for their beliefs. Horses and buggies, plain dress, independence from telephones and electricity, homemade quilts, and lots of reading materials are some of the things you might find in an Amish home.

When the Amish settled in the area, most depended on agriculture as their profession, but others who were not farmers worked instead in blacksmith shops, harness shops, or buggy shops. In addition, many specialties sprang up, such as furniture-making. Today, shops are scattered along the byway, specializing in everything from furniture to gazebos.

The Amish and their neighbors work together, making Holmes County an important agricultural, furniture manufacturing, and cheese-producing region of Ohio and the nation.

The Amish Country Byway is not one for speed. By slowing down, you get to experience the many recreational opportunities that are unique to this byway. There are carriage rides, hay rides, and sleigh rides that reflect the agricultural traditions of the area. One of the most popular activities is visiting Amish homesteads and farms, antique shops, and museums. In addition, you can find many places to stop and enjoy some good cooking or shopping.

Considerations: Early autumn means harvest season— which brings produce stands—and stunning fall foliage. Respect the privacy and religious beliefs of the Amish and don’t take pictures of them. Because of the unique agriculture and culture of Amish Country, you must share the road with Amish buggies, agriculture equipment, cyclists, etc.

The two-lane state routes and State Road 62 should be traveled at a somewhat slower pace than most paved roads. Keep in mind that many services are not available on Sundays.

Worth Pondering…

The Amish are islands of sanity in a whirlpool of change.
―Nancy Sleeth

Overtourism and Undertourism in 2019

Celebrating the “Undertouristed” places for RV travel in 2019

If there was a competition for the Word of the Year in tourism, a serious contender would be “overtourism”.

From Barcelona to Bali, the Indian Ocean to the Adriatic, 2018 was the year that people in the world’s most coveted, visited, and Instagrammed places said enough was enough.

There were protests in Barcelona and Mallorca. And the New Year began with Venice vowing to charge tourists for entry.

Let’s celebrate the alternatives in 2019—the undertouristed places that deserve more visitors and where the locals won’t take to the streets and forums to protest.

Let’s hear it for undertourism in America. From the rugged mountains to the giant forests to the vast desert, the RV traveler has it all.

Overtouristed: Charleston, South Carolina and Ashville, North Carolina and Zion National Park, Utah

Undertouristed: A sampling follows

Capitol Reef National Park, Utah

Capitol Reef received its name from the great white rock formations resembling the U.S. Capitol building and from the sheer cliffs that presented a barrier to early travelers.

However, it is the park’s multi-colored sandstone that earned it the nickname, “land of the sleeping rainbow”. The park runs along a huge buckle in the earth’s crust called the Waterpocket Fold. This noteworthy geologic feature is a wrinkle in the earth’s crust. Layer upon layer of rock folded over each other.

Bernheim Arboretum and Research Forest, Kentucky

The Bernheim Arboretum in Clermont (about 30 miles south of Louisville) includes 15,625 acres of fields and forests, as well as over 40 miles of hiking trails that weave their way through the forest and a bike route that winds along Long Lick Creek.

Whether it’s hiking one of the many trails, fishing in Lake Nevin, enjoying public art, reading under a tree, or taking advantage of one of the many informative programs, Bernheim offers visitors unique opportunities to connect with nature.

New River Gorge, West Virginia

A rugged, whitewater river flowing northward through deep canyons, the New River is among the oldest rivers on the continent. The park encompasses over 70,000 acres of land along 53 miles of the New River, is rich in cultural and natural history, and offers an abundance of scenic and recreational opportunities.

Hiking along the many park trails or biking along an old railroad grade, the visitor will be confronted with spectacular scenery. There are opportunities for extreme sports as well as a more relaxing experience.

Holmes County, Ohio

Entrepreneurial businesses owned by the Amish add to the friendly atmosphere along the byway while creating a welcome distance from the superstores of commercial America. The Swiss and German heritage of the early settlers in the county is evident in the many specialty cheese and meat products and delicious Swiss/Amish restaurants.

Okefenokee Swamp, Georgia

This pristine 680-square-mile wilderness is an ecological wonder. Wetlands provide a critical habitat for abundant wildlife and migratory birds. Take a walk on the 4,000-foot boardwalk and view the prairie from the observation tower. Visitor center offers displays and film. TAKE THE GUIDED BOAT TOUR. From the open, wet “prairies” of the east side to the forested cypress swamps on the west, Okefenokee is a mosaic of habitats, plants, and wildlife.

Worth Pondering…

This is not another place.

It is THE place.

—Charles Bowden