Hubbell Trading Post: A Place That Evolved Over Time

Explore Hubbell Trading Post in Arizona, where Navajo history, art, ranching, and a working trading post have come together for nearly 150 years.

Hubbell Trading Post is not a place that was frozen in time. It is a place that evolved over generations. Long before J.L. Hubbell arrived, Navajo families farmed and raised livestock here. Hubbell built a trading business that grew into a ranch and a gathering place and later generations carried it forward. Today, the National Park Service preserves the property while the trading post itself continues to operate much as it has for nearly 150 years.

Walking around the property, we found reminders of all those layers of history—weathered buildings, old farm machinery, livestock, the Hubbell home and, at the center of it all, the trading post. Together, they tell a story that is much richer than that of an old store.

Nearly 150 years later, Hubbell Trading Post still carries the look and feel of a place where history never completely left. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A trading post that never stopped

Where the past is still part of everyday life

There are historic places where you can imagine what life was like long ago. Then there are places where the past never completely left. Hubbell Trading Post is one of those places.

From the outside, it looks much as it must have decades ago—a collection of weathered buildings surrounded by farmland, old machinery, and a few farm animals. But this isn’t a reconstruction. The trading post itself is still operating, just as it has since J.L. Hubbell established the business here in 1878.

We visited Hubbell after spending time exploring Canyon de Chelly, about 35 miles to the north. Both places are part of the Navajo Nation and seeing them together gave me an even greater appreciation for the history and culture of this corner of Arizona.

We wandered around the Hubbell property, taking in the barn, old farm equipment, scarecrow, and livestock. Together, these details give the place the feeling of a working ranch rather than a museum.

Inside, the trading post was dark and wonderfully old-fashioned. The floorboards creaked beneath our feet while slanted wooden shelves and counters displayed everything from groceries to Navajo art and handwoven rugs. For a moment, it felt like stepping into another time.

But we hadn’t. This was—and still is—a working trading post.

How it got here and how it evolved over nearly 150 years, is the story we came to discover.

Walking around Hubbell Trading Post, it is easy to imagine the people, animals, and daily activity that once filled this working ranch. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Before Hubbell arrived

An important place long before it became a trading post

Long before J.L. Hubbell built his trading post here, this was a place where people lived, farmed, and raised livestock.

The area around present-day Ganado offered something precious in northeastern Arizona: dependable water. Natural springs made it possible for Navajo families to grow crops and maintain herds in an otherwise dry landscape. Over generations, a community developed around this reliable source of life.

Then, in the 1860s, that way of life was violently disrupted.

The U.S. Army forced thousands of Navajo people from their homeland and marched them to Bosque Redondo in New Mexico in what became known as the Long Walk. There they were confined for several years under harsh conditions.

The 1868 treaty allowed the Navajo to return to a portion of their homeland. But they returned to a place that had been badly damaged. Their livestock herds had been decimated and their fields destroyed. They faced the enormous task of rebuilding their homes, farms, and communities.

About a decade later, J.L. Hubbell arrived.

The trading post that would eventually bear his name was not the beginning of the story. It became another chapter in a place already shaped by generations of Navajo life, hardship, and renewal.

Weathered buildings, old farm equipment, and the trading post itself reveal the many layers of a place shaped by generations. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

J.L. Hubbell arrives

Building more than a business

In 1878, J.L. Hubbell purchased a small trading post near Ganado and began building a business that would eventually become one of the best-known trading posts in the Southwest.

Unlike many traders of the time, Hubbell made this place his home. He brought his wife, Mary, and their children, built a ranch, and settled into life among the people who lived around the post. He learned the Navajo language and developed relationships that went beyond simple commerce.

That personal connection became an important part of the business. Hubbell was known for treating his Navajo customers fairly and the trading post became a place where people returned not only to trade but to visit and maintain relationships.

Over time, the small operation grew. Hubbell expanded the ranch and developed his own freighting business, first using oxen and later mules and horses to move goods between the trading post and distant markets.

The post was becoming something larger than the store Hubbell had purchased. It was evolving into a business, a ranch, and a gathering place—and each generation would add another layer to the story.

More than an historic building, Hubbell Trading Post is a living place where history, Navajo culture, and everyday life continue to come together. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

More than a trading post

The ranch behind the business

The trading post was only part of Hubbell’s operation. Surrounding it was a working ranch that provided the animals, feed, and facilities needed to keep the business moving.

The barn housed livestock while the surrounding fields produced hay. Later, when the railroad reached the region, Hubbell bought sheep and lambs from Navajo herders and held them at the ranch until they could be driven to the railroad.

Walking around the property today, the barn, old farm machinery, and fields can seem like little more than remnants of another era. But they were once essential to the operation. This was a working place, not simply a store.

My photos of the old machinery, farm buildings, and even the animals help reveal that side of Hubbell Trading Post—the part that existed beyond the counter of the trading post itself.

The past feels remarkably close at Hubbell Trading Post, where old buildings and traditions remain part of the present © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The trade that built a legacy

From everyday goods to Navajo craftsmanship

As the trading post became established, what changed hands became an important part of its story. Navajo families brought pottery, baskets, jewelry, and wool to trade and over time woven rugs became some of the post’s most important products.

Hubbell helped connect these handmade goods with markets beyond the reservation. The arrival of the Fred Harvey Company and growing interest in the Southwest brought more visitors while buyers in Eastern cities created an even larger market for rugs, blankets, and other crafts.

But weaving was about more than commerce. Navajo rugs carry patterns, colors, and symbols rooted in a long artistic tradition. At the trading post today, exhibits show how raw wool was cleaned and carded, spun into yarn, and dyed before becoming a finished rug.

We were fascinated by the natural dyes. Plants that look ordinary in the landscape can produce surprisingly different colors—from black to gold and shades in between.

The more we learned, the more we realized that these rugs represent far more than beautiful objects. They reflect skill, tradition, and a craft passed from one generation to the next.

An outdoor cooking grill sits against the rugged Arizona landscape, a reminder that life at Hubbell Trading Post was once—and in many ways remains—rooted in the land. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

History still at work

The story continued long after J.L. Hubbell

J.L. Hubbell died in 1930 but the business he built did not die with him. Three generations of his family continued operating the trading post, each adding another chapter to its story.

In 1967, the Hubbell family transferred the property to the National Park Service which took on responsibility for preserving the historic site. Yet preservation didn’t mean closing the doors and turning the trading post into a museum.

The trading post continues to operate today.

The mercantile still sells groceries and everyday items alongside Navajo art, jewelry, pottery, baskets, and handwoven rugs. Navajo weavers and artists continue to demonstrate their crafts, allowing visitors to see traditions that are still being practiced rather than simply displayed.

The property has changed but its basic character remains. People still come here to work, trade, create, and connect.

That may be the most remarkable part of Hubbell Trading Post. Nearly 150 years after J.L. Hubbell opened his doors, the story is still being written.

The Hubbell family home still stands beside the trading post, offering a glimpse into the family life that unfolded here alongside the business and ranch. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A place that stayed with us

Some history is meant to be experienced

What stayed with me about Hubbell Trading Post wasn’t simply its age. It was the feeling that I hadn’t just visited a historic site—I had stepped into a place with a story still unfolding.

As we wandered around the property, the old machinery, weathered buildings, animals, and farm fields helped me imagine the working ranch that once surrounded the trading post. Inside, the creaking floorboards and shelves filled with merchandise made it surprisingly easy to forget we were visiting a National Historic Site.

But what I found most meaningful was the sense of continuity. The Navajo people who rebuilt their lives here, the Hubbell family who made this their home, the generations who kept the trading post operating, and those who continue the tradition of Navajo weaving are all part of the same evolving story.

We came to see an old trading post. What I found was something much more interesting—a place where history isn’t simply preserved behind glass. It is still part of everyday life.

And that’s what I’ll remember about Hubbell Trading Post: after nearly 150 years, it still feels like a place with somewhere to go.

The farm building and loading ramp offer a glimpse of the working ranch that supported the trading post, including the handling of livestock and supplies. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

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Editor’s note

This article was originally published in September 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. Conditions, access, and amenities may change over time, so please verify current details before planning your trip.

To maintain transparency and editorial independence, this website contains no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just firsthand RV travel experiences and practical information for fellow travelers.

Canyon de Chelly at 95: A Journey into the Heart of Navajo Country

Explore Canyon de Chelly National Monument—95 years of protected history, Navajo culture, scenic drives, and hiking in one of Arizona’s most unique landscapes

For nearly five thousand years, life has unfolded within the red sandstone walls of Canyon de Chelly National Monument making it one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes on the Colorado Plateau. Set within the high desert of northeastern Arizona, the canyon is far more than a dramatic geological wonder—it is a living homeland where families of the Navajo Nation still farm fields along the canyon floor beneath towering sandstone cliffs and ancient dwellings left by earlier cultures.

Caring for both the land and its history is a shared responsibility. The monument is managed cooperatively by the National Park Service and the Navajo Nation preserving a place where ancient history and modern life continue side by side.

Canyon de Chelly is also one of the most culturally significant landscapes in the American Southwest. In a previous article, Exploring Pre-Columbian Wonders: Lessons from the Ancients for Modern RV Travelers, I explored eleven remarkable sites that reveal the resilience, ingenuity, and cultural expression of the region’s earliest inhabitants. Among them was Canyon de Chelly where ancient cliff dwellings, fertile canyon floors, and centuries of continuous human presence tell a story that still resonates with modern travelers.

This month marks the 95th anniversary of the monument’s establishment. Created on April 1, 1931, Canyon de Chelly National Monument protects not only its namesake canyon but also Canyon del Muerto and several smaller tributary canyons. Today, scenic rim drives, ancient ruins, and living Navajo communities make it one of the most unique destinations in the National Park System.

Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A landscape shaped by history

Past and present in every cliff

The Navajo arrived in Canyon de Chelly from the north in the 1700s drawn to its sheltered valleys and abundant resources. The fertile canyon floor supported crops while the surrounding cliffs provided natural protection and grazing lands for livestock.

By the 1860s, however, years of conflict with Anglo-American settlers culminated in a devastating campaign by the U.S. Army. Under orders from Washington, Kit Carson led troops into the canyon, destroying crops, orchards, and homes to force the residents to surrender. The campaign resulted in the infamous Long Walk of the Navajo—a brutal 300-mile march to Bosque Redondo. Many perished along the way and those who survived endured years of hardship before finally being allowed to return to their homeland.

In the decades that followed, the Navajo people of Canyon de Chelly rebuilt their lives. They tended crops, raised sheep, and bartered rugs and crafts at nearby trading posts gradually shaping a peaceful and self-sustaining community. Today, roughly 80 to 100 Navajo families continue to live within the canyon, farming, raising livestock, and maintaining a vibrant cultural presence.

Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Through the eyes of a Navajo: Life in the canyon

Canyon life through Navajo eyes

Haseya Tlizilani—whose name means “She Rises,” a tribute to birth and growing older—spent her childhood mornings cradled by cedar posts and hand-carved rock slabs deep within Canyon de Chelly. As the first light of dawn spilled into her hogan, it seemed to lift her gently from sleep, the brisk morning air brushing across the sheepskin on which she rested.

“There was no sense of time,” recalls Haseya, now 55, until her great-grandmother opened the door letting in more light and signaling the start of a new day in a canyon that had always been home.

During summer breaks, Haseya returned to help her great-grandmother tend livestock and weave rugs from the family’s sheep. Surrounded by towering sandstone walls that formed a natural maze, she learned to measure the day not by clocks but by the sun and the shifting shadows on the canyon walls.

“You know it’s lunch when the shadow is creeping back up a certain part,” she says. “You know it’s time to get back to the house.”

The footsteps Haseya once took follow the same paths her relatives walked during the Long Walk in 1864 when Navajo families were forcibly removed from the canyon and marched hundreds of miles to Bosque Redondo. While intended to function as a reservation, Bosque Redondo became an internment camp where soldiers ensured the Navajo—known as the Diné—could not leave.

Today, Haseya still walks the canyon paths shaped by centuries of Diné footsteps now shared with visitors from around the world. The shadows still mark time as they move across the sandstone walls just as they did when she learned to measure the day by the sun instead of a clock.

“To us, Canyon de Chelly is our home,” she says. “She didn’t begin 95 years ago.”

For her, the canyon is not a monument frozen in time but a living place shaped by memory, labor, and survival.

Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Touring Canyon de Chelly: Scenic drives and immersive exploration

Rim views, deep insights

From the South Rim, Canyon de Chelly looks impenetrable. Sheer sandstone cliffs plunge hundreds of feet to the valley floor below. Yet a sign at the overlook where I’ve parked assures me that, improbably, there is a way to go from here down to there on foot.

For RV travelers, Canyon de Chelly National Monument offers an experience best enjoyed at a slower pace. The North and South Rim Drives wind along the canyon edges with overlooks framing sheer cliffs, the iconic Spider Rock, and the valley floor where Navajo families continue to live. Pausing at each viewpoint allows travelers to take in the canyon’s vastness and reflect on the generations who have called it home.

For a deeper overview of the canyon’s trails, rim drives, and overlooks, readers can explore my companion article, The Complete Guide to Canyon de Chelly National Monument which provides a detailed look at how to experience the monument from the rim and beyond.

The canyon is more than a dramatic landscape—it is a living homeland. Families like Haseya Tlizilani’s continue to tend sheep and crops on the valley floor, maintaining traditions that have endured for centuries. Photos of Navajo herders moving their flocks along canyon trails capture a rhythm of life that visitors can only glimpse from above. To explore how people continue to live in and care for this land today, see Canyon de Chelly National Monument: People Still Live Here & I Can See Why.

Beyond history and culture, Canyon de Chelly offers a sense of place that is truly unique. Each overlook, trail, and quiet road invites reflection, allowing visitors to absorb the scale and spirit of the canyon in a way that is difficult to describe. The slow travel approach—lingering at rim viewpoints, taking a guided hike into the valley, or simply watching shadows stretch across the sandstone cliffs—lets the canyon’s beauty unfold gradually. For a deeper reflection on why this landscape leaves such a lasting impression, see Canyon de Chelly National Monument: A Truly Special Place.

Those seeking a closer look can also join a Navajo guide or ranger-led tour that descends into the canyon itself, offering insights into the land and its history from those who know it best.

Encountering a flock of sheep on the White House Trail, Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Hiking the White House Trail

Where history lives

The easiest way to step back in time at Canyon de Chelly is along the White House Trail. In just over a mile of walking downhill, visitors move from the modern world into a landscape shaped more than a thousand years ago. The trail is relatively short and manageable yet the experience of descending into the canyon and standing beneath ancient ruins makes it one of the most memorable hikes in the Southwest.

It also holds a special distinction: it is the only trail in the monument where visitors may enter the canyon without a Navajo guide.

The hike begins at White House Overlook along the South Rim Drive. Many visitors stop here only long enough to photograph the distant ruins but those who follow the trail soon discover a far richer experience. The route initially crosses slickrock before dropping into a series of switchbacks that descend the canyon wall.

As the trail winds downward, sweeping views of the canyon open in every direction. Towering rust-colored cliffs rise nearly 600 feet above the valley floor while scattered junipers cling to the rocky slopes.

As I continued down the trail at an easy pace, I stepped aside to allow a Navajo herdsman guiding a small flock of sheep along the path to pass. The animals moved quietly through the dust, their hooves stirring small clouds in the warm sunlight.

The White House, Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Encounters like this are a reminder that Canyon de Chelly is not simply a historic landscape preserved for visitors—it is a living homeland where Navajo families still farm and herd much as their ancestors have for generations.

Eventually the trail reaches the canyon floor where sandy washes and clusters of cottonwood trees line the valley. This fertile landscape once supported the Ancestral Puebloans who built homes within sheltered alcoves along the canyon walls.

The most impressive of these dwellings is the White House Ruin, believed to date to around A.D. 1060. Archaeologists estimate the settlement may once have included as many as 80 rooms and several ceremonial kivas. Even today, wooden beams protrude from the stone walls and patches of the original white plaster—responsible for the ruin’s name—remain visible.

Standing quietly beneath these ancient dwellings offers a powerful connection to the generations who once lived here.

Trail details

  • Length: 2.7 miles round trip
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate
  • Elevation: 6,258 feet to 5,577 feet
  • Trailhead: White House Overlook, South Rim Drive
  • Directions: From the visitor center, follow the South Rim Drive approximately 4.9 miles to the White House Overlook turnoff and continue another half mile to the trailhead parking area.
Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Tips for RVers and slow travelers

Plan, pause, explore

For those exploring Canyon de Chelly by RV, timing and planning can make all the difference. The most comfortable seasons to visit are spring (March–May) and fall (September–November) when temperatures are mild and the desert light enhances the canyon’s vibrant sandstone hues.

Summers can be extremely hot while winter brings cooler temperatures and occasional snow on the rims—dramatic but less predictable for RV travel.

Good news for travelers: there is no admission fee to enter Canyon de Chelly National Monument making it easy to explore the overlooks and scenic drives at your own pace.

Overnight stays are possible at Cottonwood Campground operated by the Navajo Nation where RVs and tents can camp beneath juniper and piñon trees just minutes from the canyon rim.

The North and South Rim Drives provide numerous overlooks and pull-offs suitable for RVs, allowing travelers to stop frequently and absorb the scale of the canyon.

Slow travel is the key to experiencing Canyon de Chelly. Watch the shadows crawl across the sandstone cliffs, linger at quiet overlooks, and observe life continuing on the canyon floor.

Time Tip: While visiting the Navajo Nation, remember that unlike the rest of Arizona, Daylight Savings Time is observed from March through November. Plan your travel and reservations accordingly to stay on schedule.

Cottonwood Campground, Canyon de Chelly © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Conclusion & reflections

Pause, look, reflect

Canyon de Chelly is far more than a collection of cliffs, ancient dwellings, and sweeping desert vistas—it is a living tapestry of history, culture, and continuity. Each overlook, each trail, and each quiet corner tells a story of resilience: from the Ancestral Puebloans who first settled these canyons to the Navajo families who still farm and herd on the valley floor.

For RV travelers, taking the time to linger along the rim drives, pausing at sunlit overlooks, or descending the White House Trail allows a rare intimacy with both the landscape and its living heritage. Watching shadows crawl across sandstone walls or seeing a herder guide sheep along ancient paths reminds visitors that this is a place shaped by generations of human presence, not merely a postcard of the past. By slowing down, travelers can witness the rhythm of life here—the slow pulse of a homeland that has endured for millennia.

Ninety-five years after its designation as a national monument, Canyon de Chelly remains what it has always been—a homeland first, and a monument second.

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Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in April 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.