Across the Lone Star State, these small towns brim with new energy and welcome retreat from the city
There was a time when most Texans lived over yonder. But
over the past century, the percentage of Texans living in rural areas versus
urban areas flipped. Today, 85 percent live in cities while only 15 percent
live in the country according to the Texas Demographic Center. It’s an
understandable trend. With booming job markets, diverse cultural offerings, and
fast-paced living, Texas’ major cities project a magnetism that leads to ever-expanding
Here we chronicle four such towns that are thriving—places
to visit now for both escape and discovery.
The quaint fishing village of Rockport-Fulton has been a favorite coastal hideaway and Winter Texan roost for years. The town’s recovery since Hurricane Harvey two years ago counts among the great feel-good stories in Texas history. Rebounding in stunning ways, this little art colony beloved by visitors since the 1950s for its fishing, bay setting, and festivals feels fresh again.
Envision the life of an affluent Victorian family while exploring Fulton Mansion, built in 1877 with comforts not easily found: gas lights, central heat, and running water. At Goose Island State Park you’ll find the wintering grounds for whooping cranes and other migratory birds. It’s also home to the 1,000-year-old Big Tree, one of Texas’ largest live oak.
This might just be the “Best Little Day Trip in Texas.” I’m sure Burt Reynolds and Dolly Parton would agree as it was the events of La Grange’s famous “Chicken Ranch” that inspired the classic musical “Best Little Whorehouse in Texas.” While the brothel is no longer around there’s still plenty to do in this town.
For starters, “Czech” out the Texas Czech Heritage and
Cultural Center. This museum gives visitors a feel for the culture and early
days of Fayette County when thousands of Czech immigrants populated the area.
Another must-see stop is the Monument Hill & Kreische Brewery State
Historic Site. The settlers also introduced a town favorite treat—the kolache!
One of the best spots to grab a kolache is Weikel’s Bakery.
Fort Davis started as a military post on the turbulent Texas
frontier, but nowadays you’ll find a decidedly laid-back town. Some streets
remain unpaved, cell phones tend to fall silent, and folks still wave to each
other on the street.
It’s a quiet little town that doesn’t have a lot of tourist infrastructure. It has the essentials, though, and attractions such as the recently made-over Indian Lodge and the nearby McDonald Observatory, which last year overhauled the Hobby-Eberly Telescope and George T. Abell Gallery. Be sure to visit Fort Davis National Historic Site.
A bonus: 5,050 feet of elevation makes Fort Davis the
highest town in Texas and, on summer nights, one of the coolest.
Blanco calls itself the “Lavender Capital of Texas” as home of Hill Country Lavender farm and the annual Lavender Festival in June, complete with tours of lavender crops, growing tips, and music. If swimming or fishing’s your thing, head to Blanco State Park, where you can hook up your RV or pitch a tent and stretch your legs along the Blanco River.
At Real Ale Brewing Company sip an unfiltered beer and toss
washers. Each spring the brewery hosts the popular Real Ale Ride with Hill
Country routes ranging from 15 to 80 miles and beer at the finish line.
Texas Spoken Friendly
No matter how far we may wander, Texas lingers with us,
coloring our perceptions of the world.
America’s fourth-largest city is a cosmopolitan destination
filled with world-class dining, arts, entertainment, shopping, and outdoor
recreation. Take a stroll through the historic Heights, spend the day exploring
the Museum District, or head down to Space Center Houston.
We love Houston even for its bonkers weather. But that
doesn’t mean we don’t like to get away from it all. With that in mind, we’ve
put together a little road trip bucket list with mini itineraries for a variety
of interest. Best of all, you won’t even need to be on the road that long:
we’re talking six-hour drives, tops, which in Texas terms is basically a trip
around the corner.
Best Outdoor Getaway:
Guadalupe River State Park, Texas
Distance from Houston: 206 miles
With Big Bend roughly 640 miles and 5 billion worlds away (qualifying it for more than just a short road trip), Guadalupe River State Park is a great spot for a scenic adventure in the Great Outdoors. Many folks come here to swim but the park is more than a great swimming hole with beautiful scenery and colorful history.
On the river, you can swim, fish, tube, and canoe. In the
dog days of summer, you’ll want to beat the heat and kayak or canoe the
Guadalupe River which boasts the 5 mile Guadalupe River State Park Paddling
While on land, you can camp, hike, ride mountain bikes or
horses, picnic, geocache, and bird watch. Explore 13 miles of hike and bike
trails. Trails range from the 2.86-mile Painted Bunting Trail to the .26-mile
Barred Owl Trail, which leads you to a scenic overlook of the river. Camping is
the way to go, here with 85 campsites offering amenities like picnic tables,
outdoor grills, fire pits, and water, and electricity.
Getaway: Lockhart, Texas
Distance from Houston: 156 miles
A short trip to this flavor-packed smoke town should be on
any food lover’s bucket list. Dubbed the “BBQ Capital of Texas,” Lockhart is
easily one of the most legendary barbecue destinations in the world. While you
could make it a daytrip you’ll need several days or more to eat your way
through it. Don’t forget to pack a cooler, though, because you’ll want to bring
some meat home.
Your Day One itinerary includes the bulk of your eating, as
you tackle at least two of the Big Three: Black’s Barbecue (open since 1932), Kreuz
Market (est. 1900), and Smitty’s Market (since 1948). You need to consume a lot
of meat today, so be sure to stop for breaks. Proceed in any order you
At Black’s, third generation pitmaster Kent Black is slow
smoking his barbecue with a simple rub and local Post Oak wood. Choose the
behemoth beef rib, packing a 9-inch long bone with around 2 inches of fatty,
marbled beef cocooning it; and don’t forget the hand-stuffed and -tied homemade
sausage (original, garlic, or jalapeno-cheddar), made from an 80-year-old
recipe that has stood the test of time.
The black soot covering Smitty’s foyer and pit room is a
good sign—it means the place is alive and kickin’ after all these years. Go for
the Texas trinity of brisket, pork ribs, and sausage, fresh from the pit, and
throw on a pork chop if you’re feeling wild. This is the kind of spot where
asking for sauce is welcome and it’s a tasty sauce indeed.
Lockhart has one more stop in store for you before the drive
home: Chisholm Trail Barbecue (opened by a Black’s alum in 1978). There’s a
drive-through and BBQ sandwiches if you so please, but you can also head inside
for a full plate lunch packed with smoked turkey, sausage links, and moist
brisket with sides like mac and cheese, hash browns, and broccoli salad…
because you should probably get some greens in.
Best Getaway to Czech
Out: La Grange
Distance from Houston: 100 miles
Etched in the eroded headstones in the city cemetery and the cemeteries at the nearby “painted churches”—quaint little chapels with exquisite, spangled interiors—are the names of German and Czech immigrants who flocked to the town starting in the 1840s. With its rich heritage, it’s no surprise that La Grange is the hub for celebrating the Czech culture in Texas. Over 80 percent of the Czech Moravian families that settled in Texas at some time lived in Fayette County before they spread out across the state.
For starters, Czech out the Texas Czech Heritage and
Cultural Center. Vitáme Vás is the Czech equivalent of “howdy”, and you’ll
certainly feel welcome.
Monument Hill State Park is 40-acres of land on a bluff
overlooking La Grange. The state park is home to the site of Monument Hill, the
grounds on which the war to keep Texas free was fought. Also housed in the park
are the ruins of Kreische Brewery, one of Texas’ first commercial breweries.
The Czech immigrants incorporated different aspects of their
culture into the town, perhaps the most apparent being the architecture of the
buildings standing in the town square. In the center of the Square sits the
current Fayette County Courthouse, the fourth structure to house county
business since 1838.
The settlers also introduced a town favorite treat—the
kolache! The best spots to grab a kolache is Weikel’s Bakery. Don’t worry—you
don’t have to squeeze every flavor into one trip… Weikel’s will ship these
goodies anywhere in the country!
Best Island Getaway:
Galveston Island, Texas
Distance from Houston: 50 miles
Come to the island to stroll the beach or splash in the
waves. Or come to the island to go fishing or look for coastal birds. No matter
what brings you here, you’ll find a refuge at Galveston Island State Park. Just
an hour from Houston, but an island apart!
The Texas coast is on an hourglass-shaped migratory path
called the Central Flyway that extends from Alaska to South America. This makes
Galveston Island State Park a must-see birding spot, especially with its
combination of beach, prairie, and marsh.
Love it or hate it, Galveston is the closest beach to Houston (and we do love it). Here’s how you can love it, too: If it’s not a beach day, you’re spending the rest of the day exploring. Hit the historic Strand District, a 70-block jewel where you’ll find gorgeous Victorian buildings housing museums, boutiques, theaters, shops, and La King’s Confectionary, an old-timey sweets shop where you’ll be picking up some ice cream, dipped chocolates, and taffy.
Before you make the short trip back to H-town, get in some
extra island time by hitting the 32-miles of sands, having some old school fun
at the Pleasure Pier amusement park, checking out historically and
architecturally significant spots like the 1877 Tall Ship Elissa and 1892
Bishop’s Palace, or at the very least, getting a beer at Galveston Island
Texas Spoken Friendly
Well it’s lonesome in this old town
Everybody puts me down
I’m a face without a name
Just walking in the rain
Goin’ back to Houston, Houston, Houston
—lyrics by Lee Hazelwood, recorded by Dean Martin (1965)
We headed to Central Texas to Czech out the town of La Grande and discovered a fanciful cache of history and culture
Etched in the eroded headstones in the city cemetery and the cemeteries at the nearby “painted churches” — quaint little chapels with exquisite, spangled interiors—are the surnames of German and Czech immigrants who flocked to the town starting in the 1840s. The town began in 1826 as Moore’s Fort; it became the county seat of Fayette County in the Republic of Texas in 1837.
With its rich heritage, it’s no surprise that La Grange is the hub for celebrating the Czech culture in Texas. Over 80 percent of the Czech Moravian families that settled in Texas at some time lived in Fayette County before they spread out across the state. The Czech immigration to the Lone Star State began in 1853 and was largely over by 1912. The estimate is that there are roughly a million Texans who trace their roots back to Bohemia, Moravia, Silesia, and Slovkia.
For starters, we Czeched out the Texas Czech Heritage and
Cultural Center on Fairgrounds Road. Vitáme Vás is the Czech equivalent of
“howdy”, and we certainly felt welcome. The Center serves both as a meeting
place for organizations as well as a museum showcasing traditional wedding
dresses, passenger lists, genealogies, and immigrants’ belongings. The Center
gave us a feel for the culture and early days of Fayette County when thousands
of Czech immigrants populated the area.
As wars were brewing in Europe, men were waging war in Texas
— drawing us next to Monument Hill and Kreische Brewery State Historic Site. The
park sits on a high sandstone bluff above the Colorado River. The
expansive view from the bluff overlooks the town, dense forests, and the winding
waters of the Colorado River. The two sites are connected by a scenic nature
trail with each telling their own unique story.
Our first stop was Monument Hill, towering memorial saluting
the men who died in battles against Mexico in the 1840s. A tomb holds the
remains of 52 Texas heroes who died in the Dawson Massacre and the
Texan Santa Fe and Mier expeditions.
The first of the battles took place in 1842, when Capt.
Nicholas Dawson led 53 volunteers from La Grange against 500 Mexican troops in
the fight for San Antonio; 36 Texans were killed. Their remains are entombed in
a granite crypt with their names etched in stone.
In the second incident, a year later, 176 Texans made a
valiant escape during a prisoners’ march to Mexico City but were recaptured by
Col. Domingo Huerta. As punishment, each drew a bean from an earthen jar; one
out of every 10 was a black bean. Those unlucky enough to draw the condemning
black frijoles were executed at dusk. Their remains are entombed in
A short hike from the tomb led us to the ruins of the Kreische Brewery where German immigrant Heinrich Ludwig Kreische founded one of the first commercial breweries in Texas. The Kreische Brewery site consists of the Kreische house, outbuildings, which were built in 1855-1857, and the Kreische Brewery (which looks more like a medieval castle than a brewery), built in the 1860s.
Kreische came to Texas in 1846 from Saxony, Germany, purchased 172 acres of land on the bluff in 1849 and began a successful career as a stonemason, brew master, and businessman. His was a story of early Texas family life, blue-collar work ethic, enterprising spirit, and business acumen that tells of German immigration into Texas. He built a three-story house and, in 1860, began building a brewery. By 1879, it was the third largest brewing operation in Texas.
On a tour of the brewery ruins, we saw ample evidence of his ingenuity, including an aqueduct system he designed to channel water downhill from a spring to the brewing room. After the brewery tour, we admired the beautiful three-story stone house that Kreische built for his family—at a time when most settlers were still living in log cabins.
Texas Spoken Friendly
Texas is a state of the mind. Texas is an obsession. Above
all, Texas is a nation in every sense of the word.
Plan a trip to an off the grid city where crowds won’t be a problem and you’ll have the time of your life
The process of choosing the places I’m most excited about this
coming year, narrowing down the field was easier said than done.
I considered scenic landscapes, historic significance,
outdoor activities, food scenes, and my bucket list.
In this pursuit I kept coming back to cities that made
surprisingly compelling cases for a visit in an RV. A handful of cities have been
flying under the radar, quietly upping their games, making 2019 a great year to
While food scenes will flourish and breweries will boom, it’s
all the more impressive when a city manages to stick to its roots and do
whatever it does best—be it natural resources or bourbon or cattle or history
So by all means, head to a mountain retreat or your favorite
theme park if the spirit moves you. If not, here are three underappreciated
cities that offer the RV traveler just as many unique opportunities as well
known and crowded locations with a more relaxed atmosphere.
Great weather, a business-friendly environment, and exciting events are putting Greenville on the map.
It doesn’t have the hipster buzz of towns like Asheville and Charleston, but Greenville, South Carolina is on the up-and-up. To make it “the most livable and beautiful city in America,” Greenville’s multi-term mayor has pushed through incredible civic initiatives, creating low-rent artist studios along the Reedy River and trading a highway in favor of a pedestrian bridge overlooking Falls Park.
Miles and miles of hiking and biking trails call for
exploration and 300 days of great weather invite exciting food and music
festivals to take over the city. Signature fests include Euphoria, a four-day
food-and-wine fest in September (19-20, in 2019), and Artisphere, a mid-May (May
10-12, in 2019) blowout when dozens of art and food vendors descend on the main
This “Bourbon Capital of the World” is home to six notable
distilleries. Kentucky’s “Official Outdoor Drama,” one of the country’s most
highly regarded Civil War museums, and one of the most recognized structures in
America at Federal Hill, better known as My Old Kentucky Home.
You can visit the distilleries of your choice for tours and
tastings, including Barton 1792 and Willett. Begin or end your Kentucky Bourbon
Trail journey here.
After sampling America’s native spirit, you’ll be wowed by
professional outdoor theater at “The Stephen Foster Story”. And you’ll be wooed
by the romance of rail travel with an elegant four-course meal aboard the
vintage My Old Kentucky Dinner Train as it rolls through Bourbon Country.
You’ll be charmed by themed railroad excursions, including
train robberies and Thomas the Tank Engine, at Kentucky Railway Museum. And at
the Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History you’ll be amused by such curiosities
as a whiskey container shaped like King Tut, a whiskey bottle with combination
lock to keep servants from swigging on the sly, and whiskey advertisements like
one noting it “blots out all your troubles.”
La Grange, Texas
We discovered a fanciful cache of history and culture in the
Central Texas community of La Grange, a town steeped in German and Czech
culture. Much of the town history is encased in rich foundations and dignified
old architecture laid in the late 1800s. The three-story Fayette County
Courthouse is masonry and stone Romanesque Revival structure with a clock tower
over the main entrance.
Though many of the original buildings in La Grange are more
than a century old, a number of them have been renovated and serve as creative
outlets, blending history and modern-day function. The Texas Quilt Museum
opened November 2011 in a two historic 1890s buildings, which provide a
stunning showcase for both antique and contemporary quilt art with their high
ceilings, brick walls, and original hardwood floors.
“My favorite thing is to go where I have never been,” wrote
photographer Diane Arbus, and so it is with us.