Lake Winnipesaukee lies in New Hampshire’s Lakes Region at the foothills of the White Mountains. It is the state’s largest lake and is often called the Big Lake.
On a pleasant September morning, we boarded the M/S Mount Washington at Weirs Beach for a cruise across Lake Winnipesaukee. The mountains were beginning to show the colors of autumn, the islands dotted the broad expanse of water, and the shoreline slowly unfolded as we cruised toward Wolfeboro.
For a few hours, there was nowhere we needed to be. We simply enjoyed being on the lake.

A different view of the lake
Seeing Winnipesaukee from the water
I have written about Lake Winnipesaukee before including Smile of the Great Spirit: Lake Winnipesaukee which explored the lake and surrounding Lakes Region. I have also written about Castle in the Clouds where Winnipesaukee stretches below in a sweeping panorama of water, islands, and mountains.
This time, I want to look at the lake from a different perspective—from the deck of the M/S Mount Washington.
There is something different about experiencing a lake from the water. The shoreline no longer defines the journey; it becomes part of the scenery. Islands that seem distant from land take on a different character while the surrounding mountains rise around you rather than simply forming a backdrop.
On a pleasant October afternoon, we cruised from Weirs Beach toward Wolfeboro, surrounded by the changing landscape of New Hampshire’s Big Lake. It was a leisurely few hours but one that offered a fresh way to appreciate a place I had already come to know.

Weirs Beach
Where the journey begins
Our cruise began at Weirs Beach, one of the best-known communities on Lake Winnipesaukee. For generations, it has been a popular summer destination with its waterfront, beach, boardwalk, restaurants, and attractions drawing visitors to the lake.
Weirs Beach is also an important gateway to Winnipesaukee. From here, visitors can enjoy the lake in many ways but few are as leisurely as stepping aboard the M/S Mount Washington for a cruise.
The summer crowds had thinned and the waterfront felt relaxed. We boarded the M/S Mount Washington and settled in for a leisurely day on the lake.
At 230 feet long and spread across three decks, the ship is impressive even at the dock. But once we pulled away, its size mattered less than the view.
The waterfront slowly receded behind us and the lake opened ahead. What had been a destination viewed from land became the landscape through which we were traveling.
For the next several hours, the lake would be our road.

Aboard the Mount Washington
The lake becomes the road
Once we left Weirs Beach, the pace of the day changed. There was no traffic to watch, no turns to navigate, and no reason to hurry. The M/S Mount Washington moved steadily across the lake while we watched the scenery unfold.
The ship has carried passengers on Lake Winnipesaukee since 1940 and has become an institution on the Big Lake. Its spacious decks make it easy to step outside and enjoy the ever-changing views.
We spent much of our time on deck where the fall air was pleasant and the scenery constantly changed. The shoreline stretched away in both directions, islands appeared ahead and slipped behind us, and mountains formed a familiar backdrop.
There was nothing complicated about the experience. We were simply on the lake, watching New Hampshire pass by at a comfortable pace. Perhaps that was the best part—the opportunity to slow down and let the landscape come to us.

The lake unfolds
Islands, mountains, and shoreline
Once we were out on the open water, Lake Winnipesaukee seemed to grow larger with every mile. From the deck, islands appeared ahead, wooded shorelines curved into the lake, and mountains rose beyond them.
A cruise offers something that driving around the lake cannot. The perspective is constantly changing. An island gradually reveals its trees and rocky shoreline before slipping behind us while distant mountains shift along the horizon as the ship changes course.
I found myself watching the shoreline as much as the water. Homes and small communities appeared among the trees and hills, seeming quieter and more removed from the everyday world.
The September morning added its own character with autumn beginning to touch the landscape without overwhelming the greens of the forest.
There was time simply to look. No single view lasted very long but there was always another one waiting beyond it.

Wolfeboro
America’s oldest summer resort
After cruising across Lake Winnipesaukee, the M/S Mount Washington brought us to Wolfeboro on the eastern shore.
Wolfeboro has a long connection with summer vacationing. Colonial Governor John Wentworth established a summer estate here in the 1760s, giving the town its claim as America’s oldest summer resort. His estate was actually on nearby Lake Wentworth but his summers in the region helped establish a tradition that continues today.
The town grew into a popular summer destination and its relationship with Lake Winnipesaukee remains central to its character. The waterfront, town docks, shops, restaurants, and tree-lined streets give Wolfeboro a traditional New England resort atmosphere.
We stepped ashore and spent some time exploring before stopping for lunch. It was a pleasant change from the quiet of the lake and gave us a chance to experience Wolfeboro from the shore rather than simply watching it pass from the deck.
After lunch, we returned to the M/S Mount Washington for the journey back across the lake. Our stop added a little history and a taste of lakeside life to an already enjoyable day on Winnipesaukee.

Back on the lake
The journey home
After lunch in Wolfeboro, we returned to the M/S Mount Washington and continued our cruise across Lake Winnipesaukee. The afternoon was still pleasant and there was something satisfying about settling back aboard and watching the shoreline slowly recede.
The return journey offered many of the same views we had seen earlier but they didn’t feel quite the same. From the opposite direction, familiar islands and stretches of shoreline took on new shapes and perspectives.
We spent the afternoon watching the landscape rather than watching the clock. Mountains framed the lake, wooded islands dotted the water, and occasional homes appeared along the shoreline. The pace was unhurried, giving us time to simply enjoy being there.
As Weirs Beach gradually came back into view, the cruise was drawing to an end. A few hours earlier, we had left the shore looking forward to seeing Lake Winnipesaukee from the water. Now we were returning with a collection of photographs—and a different appreciation for the Big Lake.

Seeing the lake anew
Some places reveal more with time
As Weirs Beach came back into view, our cruise aboard the M/S Mount Washington was coming to an end. We had spent a pleasant September day crossing Lake Winnipesaukee, stopping in Wolfeboro and enjoying the ever-changing views from the water.
I had seen this lake before from its shores and from high above at Castle in the Clouds. Each perspective revealed something different. From above, I could appreciate the sweep of the lake and the mountains that surround it. From the water, I noticed the smaller details—the wooded islands, quiet stretches of shoreline, and homes tucked among the trees.
Perhaps that is what I enjoy most about returning to places I have visited before. There is always another way to see them.
The M/S Mount Washington cruise wasn’t an adventure in the usual sense. It was simply several unhurried hours on the water, enjoying the scenery, and the company of a beautiful New Hampshire day.
Sometimes, that’s more than enough.
Seeing the lake anew
Some places reveal more with time
As Weirs Beach came back into view, our day on Lake Winnipesaukee was coming to an end. The M/S Mount Washington had carried us across the Big Lake, through its islands and along its shores with a stop in Wolfeboro along the way.
I had seen Winnipesaukee from its shores and from high above at Castle in the Clouds. Yet being on the water felt different. The lake wasn’t simply something to look at; it was something to move through. Islands, mountains, and shoreline became part of the experience.
Perhaps that is why familiar places continue to draw us back. We don’t always return because the place has changed. Sometimes we return because we are willing to see it differently.
That pleasant September day aboard the M/S Mount Washington gave me another way to experience a lake I thought I already knew. There is always another perspective waiting to be discovered.
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Editor’s note
This article was originally published in September 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. Conditions, access, and amenities may change over time, so please verify current details before planning your trip.
To maintain transparency and editorial independence, this website contains no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just firsthand RV travel experiences and practical information for fellow travelers.




























































































































































