Hubbell Trading Post: A Place That Evolved Over Time

Explore Hubbell Trading Post in Arizona, where Navajo history, art, ranching, and a working trading post have come together for nearly 150 years.

Hubbell Trading Post is not a place that was frozen in time. It is a place that evolved over generations. Long before J.L. Hubbell arrived, Navajo families farmed and raised livestock here. Hubbell built a trading business that grew into a ranch and a gathering place and later generations carried it forward. Today, the National Park Service preserves the property while the trading post itself continues to operate much as it has for nearly 150 years.

Walking around the property, we found reminders of all those layers of history—weathered buildings, old farm machinery, livestock, the Hubbell home and, at the center of it all, the trading post. Together, they tell a story that is much richer than that of an old store.

Nearly 150 years later, Hubbell Trading Post still carries the look and feel of a place where history never completely left. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A trading post that never stopped

Where the past is still part of everyday life

There are historic places where you can imagine what life was like long ago. Then there are places where the past never completely left. Hubbell Trading Post is one of those places.

From the outside, it looks much as it must have decades ago—a collection of weathered buildings surrounded by farmland, old machinery, and a few farm animals. But this isn’t a reconstruction. The trading post itself is still operating, just as it has since J.L. Hubbell established the business here in 1878.

We visited Hubbell after spending time exploring Canyon de Chelly, about 35 miles to the north. Both places are part of the Navajo Nation and seeing them together gave me an even greater appreciation for the history and culture of this corner of Arizona.

We wandered around the Hubbell property, taking in the barn, old farm equipment, scarecrow, and livestock. Together, these details give the place the feeling of a working ranch rather than a museum.

Inside, the trading post was dark and wonderfully old-fashioned. The floorboards creaked beneath our feet while slanted wooden shelves and counters displayed everything from groceries to Navajo art and handwoven rugs. For a moment, it felt like stepping into another time.

But we hadn’t. This was—and still is—a working trading post.

How it got here and how it evolved over nearly 150 years, is the story we came to discover.

Walking around Hubbell Trading Post, it is easy to imagine the people, animals, and daily activity that once filled this working ranch. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Before Hubbell arrived

An important place long before it became a trading post

Long before J.L. Hubbell built his trading post here, this was a place where people lived, farmed, and raised livestock.

The area around present-day Ganado offered something precious in northeastern Arizona: dependable water. Natural springs made it possible for Navajo families to grow crops and maintain herds in an otherwise dry landscape. Over generations, a community developed around this reliable source of life.

Then, in the 1860s, that way of life was violently disrupted.

The U.S. Army forced thousands of Navajo people from their homeland and marched them to Bosque Redondo in New Mexico in what became known as the Long Walk. There they were confined for several years under harsh conditions.

The 1868 treaty allowed the Navajo to return to a portion of their homeland. But they returned to a place that had been badly damaged. Their livestock herds had been decimated and their fields destroyed. They faced the enormous task of rebuilding their homes, farms, and communities.

About a decade later, J.L. Hubbell arrived.

The trading post that would eventually bear his name was not the beginning of the story. It became another chapter in a place already shaped by generations of Navajo life, hardship, and renewal.

Weathered buildings, old farm equipment, and the trading post itself reveal the many layers of a place shaped by generations. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

J.L. Hubbell arrives

Building more than a business

In 1878, J.L. Hubbell purchased a small trading post near Ganado and began building a business that would eventually become one of the best-known trading posts in the Southwest.

Unlike many traders of the time, Hubbell made this place his home. He brought his wife, Mary, and their children, built a ranch, and settled into life among the people who lived around the post. He learned the Navajo language and developed relationships that went beyond simple commerce.

That personal connection became an important part of the business. Hubbell was known for treating his Navajo customers fairly and the trading post became a place where people returned not only to trade but to visit and maintain relationships.

Over time, the small operation grew. Hubbell expanded the ranch and developed his own freighting business, first using oxen and later mules and horses to move goods between the trading post and distant markets.

The post was becoming something larger than the store Hubbell had purchased. It was evolving into a business, a ranch, and a gathering place—and each generation would add another layer to the story.

More than an historic building, Hubbell Trading Post is a living place where history, Navajo culture, and everyday life continue to come together. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

More than a trading post

The ranch behind the business

The trading post was only part of Hubbell’s operation. Surrounding it was a working ranch that provided the animals, feed, and facilities needed to keep the business moving.

The barn housed livestock while the surrounding fields produced hay. Later, when the railroad reached the region, Hubbell bought sheep and lambs from Navajo herders and held them at the ranch until they could be driven to the railroad.

Walking around the property today, the barn, old farm machinery, and fields can seem like little more than remnants of another era. But they were once essential to the operation. This was a working place, not simply a store.

My photos of the old machinery, farm buildings, and even the animals help reveal that side of Hubbell Trading Post—the part that existed beyond the counter of the trading post itself.

The past feels remarkably close at Hubbell Trading Post, where old buildings and traditions remain part of the present © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

The trade that built a legacy

From everyday goods to Navajo craftsmanship

As the trading post became established, what changed hands became an important part of its story. Navajo families brought pottery, baskets, jewelry, and wool to trade and over time woven rugs became some of the post’s most important products.

Hubbell helped connect these handmade goods with markets beyond the reservation. The arrival of the Fred Harvey Company and growing interest in the Southwest brought more visitors while buyers in Eastern cities created an even larger market for rugs, blankets, and other crafts.

But weaving was about more than commerce. Navajo rugs carry patterns, colors, and symbols rooted in a long artistic tradition. At the trading post today, exhibits show how raw wool was cleaned and carded, spun into yarn, and dyed before becoming a finished rug.

We were fascinated by the natural dyes. Plants that look ordinary in the landscape can produce surprisingly different colors—from black to gold and shades in between.

The more we learned, the more we realized that these rugs represent far more than beautiful objects. They reflect skill, tradition, and a craft passed from one generation to the next.

An outdoor cooking grill sits against the rugged Arizona landscape, a reminder that life at Hubbell Trading Post was once—and in many ways remains—rooted in the land. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

History still at work

The story continued long after J.L. Hubbell

J.L. Hubbell died in 1930 but the business he built did not die with him. Three generations of his family continued operating the trading post, each adding another chapter to its story.

In 1967, the Hubbell family transferred the property to the National Park Service which took on responsibility for preserving the historic site. Yet preservation didn’t mean closing the doors and turning the trading post into a museum.

The trading post continues to operate today.

The mercantile still sells groceries and everyday items alongside Navajo art, jewelry, pottery, baskets, and handwoven rugs. Navajo weavers and artists continue to demonstrate their crafts, allowing visitors to see traditions that are still being practiced rather than simply displayed.

The property has changed but its basic character remains. People still come here to work, trade, create, and connect.

That may be the most remarkable part of Hubbell Trading Post. Nearly 150 years after J.L. Hubbell opened his doors, the story is still being written.

The Hubbell family home still stands beside the trading post, offering a glimpse into the family life that unfolded here alongside the business and ranch. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A place that stayed with us

Some history is meant to be experienced

What stayed with me about Hubbell Trading Post wasn’t simply its age. It was the feeling that I hadn’t just visited a historic site—I had stepped into a place with a story still unfolding.

As we wandered around the property, the old machinery, weathered buildings, animals, and farm fields helped me imagine the working ranch that once surrounded the trading post. Inside, the creaking floorboards and shelves filled with merchandise made it surprisingly easy to forget we were visiting a National Historic Site.

But what I found most meaningful was the sense of continuity. The Navajo people who rebuilt their lives here, the Hubbell family who made this their home, the generations who kept the trading post operating, and those who continue the tradition of Navajo weaving are all part of the same evolving story.

We came to see an old trading post. What I found was something much more interesting—a place where history isn’t simply preserved behind glass. It is still part of everyday life.

And that’s what I’ll remember about Hubbell Trading Post: after nearly 150 years, it still feels like a place with somewhere to go.

The farm building and loading ramp offer a glimpse of the working ranch that supported the trading post, including the handling of livestock and supplies. © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

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Editor’s note

This article was originally published in September 2026. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. Conditions, access, and amenities may change over time, so please verify current details before planning your trip.

To maintain transparency and editorial independence, this website contains no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just firsthand RV travel experiences and practical information for fellow travelers.

The Painted Desert: Seeing Northern Arizona Slowly, One Road at a Time

An RV traveler’s exploration of Northern Arizona’s Painted Desert—inside and beyond Petrified Forest National Park

Traveling through northern Arizona in an RV has a way of slowing time, whether you intend it or not. There are no rush hours, no lines to navigate, and few distractions beyond the road stretching ahead. Every turn reveals something new—sometimes subtle, sometimes striking—but always in a rhythm that encourages observation rather than conquest.

In this part of the high desert, landscapes unfold slowly. Colors shift with the sun, shadows stretch across distant mesas and the horizon seems to expand the longer you watch. For travelers willing to linger, the experience is less about reaching a destination and more about noticing the nuances along the way: the delicate bands of mineral-stained rock, the gentle rise and fall of distant hills, the way the wind reshapes the brush with quiet persistence.

This approach—moving deliberately, letting the land reveal itself gradually—turns even familiar destinations into discoveries. And nowhere is this more evident than in the Painted Desert.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A landscape that unfolds, not one you arrive at

Not a destination to reach, but a place to pass through slowly

The Painted Desert doesn’t announce itself all at once. It unfolds gradually, mile by mile, in soft bands of color and wide-open space. From the seat of an RV, northern Arizona feels especially well suited to this kind of discovery—unhurried, spacious, and quietly profound. The Painted Desert is not a single destination so much as a region and understanding it requires movement, patience, and the willingness to let the land reveal itself over distance.

Most travelers encounter the Painted Desert through Petrified Forest National Park where paved roads and thoughtfully placed overlooks make the landscape immediately accessible. For RV travelers, this is the perfect introduction. The park road accommodates larger rigs and the overlooks—Tawa Point, Kachina Point, Chinde Point—invite you to step outside, breathe in the high desert air, and take in layers of lavender, rose, rust, and chalky white stretching to the horizon.

More than a park: The true extent of the Painted Desert

What you see in the park is only the beginning

Yet Petrified Forest represents only a portion of the Painted Desert’s true reach. The Painted Desert stretches roughly 150 miles across northern and northeastern Arizona from near the eastern edge of the Grand Canyon southeast toward Holbrook and beyond. It covers thousands of square miles, much of it outside the national park boundary, lying across Navajo Nation lands, Hopi areas, and broad expanses of open high desert shaped by erosion and time.

That broader context matters—especially for RV travelers. While the park offers a beautifully curated window into the Painted Desert, the surrounding landscape hints at something much larger. From Interstate 40 alone, glimpses of badlands and mesas roll past the windshield east of Winslow and near Chambers reminding you that the desert does not stop at the park gate. The Painted Desert is a place you pass through as much as one you stop within.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A desert shaped by water, ash, and time

Layers written by floods, volcanoes, and erosion

Geologically, the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest are chapters of the same ancient story written in different ways. Both landscapes are formed primarily from the Chinle Formation, a sequence of sedimentary rocks laid down more than 200 million years ago during the Late Triassic Period. At that time, this region was a low-lying floodplain crossed by rivers, dotted with wetlands, and periodically buried by volcanic ash drifting in from distant eruptions.

The Painted Desert’s color comes from these layered sediments—mudstones, siltstones, and volcanic ash—rich in iron, manganese, and other minerals. Over millions of years, erosion carved these deposits into softly rounded hills and badlands exposing pastel bands that shift in hue with moisture, light, and time of day. What you see today is less about sudden drama and more about slow, persistent change.

The petrified trees found farther south in the park share this same origin but tell a more specific story. Ancient conifers fell into river channels, were quickly buried by sediment and ash, and slowly replaced at the cellular level by silica-rich minerals. The result is fossilized wood turned to stone—logs scattered across the desert like time misplaced.

The key difference is focus. The Painted Desert is about layers and distance, about erosion revealing history across entire horizons. The Petrified Forest is about detail and preservation where individual trees anchor the story in tangible form. One shows time stretched across miles; the other shows it frozen in place.

RV-friendly access: A front-row seat to subtle grandeur

A landscape that rewards those who simply stop

What makes this region particularly rewarding from an RV is its rhythm. The experience isn’t about long hikes or crowded viewpoints. It’s about timing and light. Early mornings bring subtle pastels and cool air. Late afternoons deepen the colors and stretch shadows across the land. Sunset arrives quietly here—less theatrical than the Grand Canyon, perhaps, but more intimate.

Unlike many national parks, Petrified Forest doesn’t have any campgrounds which calls for a different approach. RV travelers often set up base in nearby towns like Holbrook or Winslow or along stretches of historic Route 66 experiencing the Painted Desert as a day-long drive rather than an overnight stop. That arrangement suits the landscape. The desert asks for presence, not permanence.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Beyond the RV: Exploring the wider Painted Desert by SUV

Where the park roads end, the desert continues

Beyond the paved roads of Petrified Forest National Park lies another, quieter layer of the Painted Desert—one that is not RV-friendly and should not be approached as such. Outside the park, the landscape stretches across vast sections of northern Arizona, much of it reached by unpaved or lightly maintained roads. These routes are often unsigned, highly weather-dependent, and unsuitable for large motorhomes or trailers.

For travelers in an SUV or smaller vehicle, however, the Painted Desert begins to open up in more remote and contemplative ways. Highways such as Interstate 40, State Route 77, and US-89 act as spines through the region with secondary roads branching toward lesser-known badlands, mesas, and river corridors. These drives don’t offer formal overlooks or interpretive signs; instead, they offer scale, solitude, and a sense of continuity with the land that can’t be captured from a single viewpoint.

Preparation matters in this wider desert. Fuel stops are limited, water is essential, and cell service can disappear quickly. Much of this land lies within the Navajo Nation and neighboring tribal areas where access rules vary and permits may be required. Some locations are best visited with local knowledge or guided access and staying on established roads—while respecting closures and boundaries—is part of traveling thoughtfully through this region.

For those willing to venture beyond the park’s paved loop, the reward is not a checklist of stops but a deeper experience of the Painted Desert as a living, expansive landscape—one revealed gradually through distance, patience, and respect.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Here are specific routes and places worth exploring:

  • I‑40 Scenic pullouts (Arizona): Even if you stay on the highway, Interstate 40 offers multiple spots with wide views of the Painted Desert landscape. Exiting or stopping safely at pullouts near Winslow/Holbrook‑area overlooks gives you panoramas of layers of badlands that extend for miles particularly in the golden hour around sunrise and sunset.
  • Exit 311 – Painted Desert Visitor Center: The main gateway to Petrified Forest National Park with overlooks and interpretive signs explaining color bands and local geology.
  • Exit 306 – Holbrook/Navajo County: Several less‑crowded vantage points offer quiet panoramas of the eastern reaches of the Painted Desert—perfect for photography and contemplation.
  • Exit 330 – Sanders/Wide Ruins: A short side drive from this exit opens up views of broad high desert terrain where subtle gradients of color stretch into the distance.

These stops are all paved and safe for SUVs; you can savor desert views without entering more rugged terrain.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

AZ‑77 North toward Navajo Nation

From the northern end of Petrified Forest National Park, take State Route 77 (AZ‑77) north. This route crosses into Navajo Nation and runs through wide, open desert country. There are places along this highway where you can safely pull off and admire the layers of distant hills and mesas—especially in tranquil morning light or late afternoon when shadows deepen the colors.

Note: Once you leave the paved highway many of the dirt and two‑track roads that weave off into the depths of the Painted Desert require high‑clearance 4WD, prior planning with updated maps, and appropriate permits—so go only with local guidance or experienced drivers.

US‑89 & Highway 160 / Tuba City corridor

Farther north, sections of US‑89 between Cameron and Tuba City and the connecting Highway 160 eastward offer sweeping views of Painted Desert landscapes without leaving paved routes. Pull off at safe overlooks or wide shoulders to take in the vistas. There aren’t formal lookout points here like in the park—but the gently rolling terrain and layers of color are unmistakably of the same geological family.

This route also connects you with a broader road trip loop toward Monument Valley and the Four Corners area letting you experience extensive badlands, mesas, and plateau scenery characteristic of northeastern Arizona.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Grand Falls (seasonal waterfall & Painted Desert setting)

One of the most striking remote features of the wider Painted Desert region is Grand Falls, sometimes called Chocolate Falls on the Little Colorado River. When flowing—typically after winter snowmelt or monsoon rain—it’s a dramatic, muddy cascade plunging about 185 feet within a broad painted badland setting.

Important access notes: The nearest road, Grand Falls Road, crosses riverbeds and rough terrain; it’s not paved and generally requires 4WD or experienced off‑road driving. Tribal permits and up‑to‑date access information are essential before attempting this route and many years it’s dry or reduced to trickle.

Given these conditions, Grand Falls exemplifies how the Painted Desert opens up once you’re willing to leave pavement behind—but also why SUVs or 4WD vehicles, local guidance, and careful preparation are necessary.

Planning tips for wider Painted Desert exploration

Plan for fewer services and more silence

Once you leave the park roads, the Painted Desert becomes more remote and less predictable. A bit of planning—fuel, water, and route awareness—makes the difference between simply passing through and truly experiencing the land.

  • Stay on paved routes when possible: Highways and state routes (I‑40, AZ‑77, US‑89/AZ‑160) are generally accessible to SUVs and safe for scenic stops.
  • Come prepared: Water, fuel, updated maps or GPS, and awareness of limited services are vital in remote desert regions.
  • Respect tribal land rules: Much of the Painted Desert outside the national park lies on Navajo Nation and other tribal lands; local regulations and permits may be required for back‑country access.

By pairing the developed, RV‑friendly access of Petrified Forest National Park with these broader, SUV‑accessible routes and spots, you can experience the Painted Desert not just as a destination but as a wide‑ranging, dynamic landscape—one seen at the pace of attention rather than speed.

Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

A landscape best understood in pieces

Each stop reveals only part of the story

Seen this way, the Painted Desert becomes a layered experience. The RV provides comfort, perspective, and easy access to the park’s highlights. The SUV allows for short, intentional forays into the broader landscape beyond the pavement. Together, they create a fuller understanding of a desert that was never meant to be consumed quickly or completely.

The Painted Desert doesn’t overwhelm. It invites. It rewards those willing to slow down, look longer, and accept that some landscapes are best appreciated not by how much ground you cover but by how attentively you move through them. For RV travelers, that may be its greatest gift—reminding us that travel, at its best, is less about arriving and more about noticing.

The Painted Desert at a glance

Everything you need to know before you explore

From easy RV-friendly roads to remote SUV-accessible stretches, the Painted Desert offers a variety of experiences. This at-a-glance guide highlights key information for planning your visit.

  • Location: Northern Arizona, extending well beyond Petrified Forest National Park
  • Best access for RVs: Petrified Forest National Park’s paved park road and overlooks
  • Best access beyond the Park: SUVs via I-40, AZ-77, US-89, and selected secondary roads
  • What makes it unique: Layered badlands colored by ash, water, and time
  • Best time to visit: Early morning or late afternoon when light deepens the colors
  • Travel style: Slow, observational travel rather than destination-driven exploration
  • Key takeaway: The Painted Desert is not a single place but a landscape experienced over distance
Painted Desert © Rex Vogel, all rights reserved

Closing reflections

Lessons the desert leaves behind

The Painted Desert resists quick conclusions. Its beauty isn’t revealed in a single overlook or a perfect photograph but in the accumulation of moments—light shifting across distant hills, color deepening with the day’s last sun, silence stretching farther than the road ahead. It is a place that rewards those willing to pause, to notice, and to let the landscape speak in its own time.

Perhaps that is why it lingers so long in memory. As Charles F. Lum once wrote, it is “an enchanted spot…to stand on the glass of a gigantic kaleidoscope, over whose sparkling surface the sun breaks in infinite rainbows.” Seen this way, the Painted Desert becomes more than a destination—it becomes a reminder that travel, like the land itself, is richest when experienced slowly, thoughtfully, and with perspective shaped over time.

Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in December 2025. Information reflects what was accurate at the time of writing. For topics that may change quickly, please verify current details before planning. To ensure honesty and avoid bias, this website features no ads, no sponsored content, and no affiliate links—just straightforward information for fellow travelers.